Sandra Scott's Travel Columns

Exploring Hong Kong's Lantau Island

2012-02-20T19:12:00.000-08:00

We have been to Hong Kong many times. It is a wonderful place to spend a few days recuperating after a 16-hour flight. This time we decided to check out Hong Kong’s Lantau Island instead of going into the city center. Lantau Island is home to Hong Kong International Airport and Disneyland. We stayed at the Airport’s SkyCity Marriott which was perfect in many ways. We arrived late in the evening and it was just a short jaunt from the airport to a good night’s sleep. In the morning we ready to go with the minimum of jetlag. Like many airport hotels in Asia, the Marriott is a full service hotel with several restaurants and a spa. In the morning I headed to the spa for foot reflexology which is a wonderful way to get rid of any ankle swelling that occurs during long flights.

Before we left the States we had booked a Lantau Island tour on-line with Splendid Tours. It worked out perfectly because they picked us up at the hotel. Lantau Island is called “The Lungs of Hong Kong” because it is so green. There are some huge hi-rise buildings in one area but most of the island is a place where the people like to hike and camp. On the tour our first stop was the 360 Ngong Ping Cable Car for a 25-minute aerial tour of the island. It was a misty day so the views were not as outstanding as they are on a clear day but it was still a great ride. We were amazed at the number of people walking the trail to the top which takes two to three hours.

At the top, after the cable car, we were transported to the Giant Buddha. The tour bus dropped us at the base of the 112-ft Buddha which eliminated the 240 steps most people use to get to the statue. The Buddha, sitting on a lotus flower, is the world’s largest brass sitting Buddha. Outside on the walkway around the statue are six life-sized bronze statues known as "The Offerings of the Six Devas." They are posed offering flowers, incense, lamp, ointment, fruit, and music to the Buddha. Inside the base were displays depicting the building of the statue and a Hall of Remembrance honoring people’s ancestors.

The tour bus then transported us to the bottom, once again avoiding the many steps, where we visited the Po Lin Monastery. The pathway leading to the monastery is lined with 12 stone guardians, each with an animal on its head, one for each of the Chinese year signs. This year is the Year of the Dragon. Inside the monastery there was a Happy Buddha and four large bronze statues representing the cardinal directions.

Our last stop was Tai O fishing village which is a sharp contrast to the super modern rest of Hong Kong. The historic village is lined with small shops and is especially noted for it dried seafood and traditional way of life. Of special interest were the fish bladders (maws), some of which were huge, used in many Chinese recipes. The tour was excellent and most of the people returned to central HK via the ferry. We took a cab back to the Marriott where we enjoyed a wonderful dinner. I passed on the seahorse soup but loved the sizzling Kurabuta BBQ pork loin.

2012-02-16T22:49:00.001-08:00

When John and I were in Louisiana we made King Cakes which are served on the Festival of the Epiphany. The Epiphany, or "Little Christmas", is observed on January 6th in many Christian churches. Since the 300's, the day has honored the meeting of the three wise men with the infant Jesus. King Cakes became part of the celebration to symbolize the finding of the baby Jesus. Traditionally King Cakes are oval to symbolize the unity of all Christians. The Mardi Gras Season in Lake Charles begins on "Twelfth Night" (January 6th) and ends on Fat Tuesday, which is the day before the Lenten season begins. This year Fat Tuesday falls on February 21. Anytime during this period is the perfect time to enjoy King Cakes – they are delicious, colorful and fun.

While we were in Lake Charles, Louisiana, we visited the Mardi Gras Museum. I liked the fact that it is housed in a building that was once a school. I like it when buildings take on a new life. Today the building is the Central School Arts & Humanities Center. The Mardi Gras Museum is just one of the organizations housed in the building. The museum claims to have the largest collection of Mardi Gras costumes on display – they are fantastic. Besides the amazing costumes they have animated mannequins that tell the story of Mardi Gras and talking Mardi Gras chickens that are trying to escape being cooked up in a gumbo pot. There are various rooms set up that tell the story of baking King Cakes as well as costume making. Visitors can also climb aboard a Mardi Gras float, hear the cheering crowds and pretend that they are actually in a parade.

After touring the museum we joined a group to make – well decorate – King Cakes. The Delicious Donut & Bakery had everything ready. We inserted a little plastic baby in the cake and frosted the cakes with carnival colors: green, yellow, and purple. We added beads, a coin, and a mask in the tradition of the carnival. After a King Cake is cut and served, the guest whose slice contains the "baby" which we had hidden in the cake is then obligated to bring a King Cake to the next celebration. Our problem was how to get the cake home in our luggage! Then John had a great idea, “Since we will not be home for Fat Tuesday lets send the cakes to our family so they can enjoy them.” And we did. It seems that Delicious Donut & Bakery is well known and ships King Cakes to anyplace in the United States.

The Mardi Gras in Lake Charles which includes many events over many days is touted as being “family-friendly.” We were told, “You don’t have to “show” anything to get beads!” We have heard that Mardi Gras in New Orleans is much less family friendly but we have never been there for the party. However, we did attend Carnival in Rio de Janeiro a couple years ago. We had heard some scary stories about how dangerous Rio was during Carnival time. We bought tickets to the Sambodromo, the only place to see the Samba Parade. It was extremely safe, with access to the Sambodromo and also our seating area by pre-issued cards similar to credit cards. There was security everywhere. It was an amazing nonstop 12 hours of music and parades.

Great train trips

2012-02-13T05:24:00.000-08:00

There is something about the mournful sound of a train that calls for one to hop aboard and see the world. Some trains are legendary such as the Alaskan trip from Anchorage to Fairbanks and the Australian Ghan that now goes from Darwin to Adelaide. There are many trains worldwide that offer excellent experiences. Some travel short distances while others cover a whole continent.

1. Denali, Alaska: Maybe you won’t see any of Alaska’s famed wildlife on the ride between Anchorage and Fairbanks but scenery from the double decked dome rail cars will mesmerize as it enters the Nenana River Canyon and crosses the Tanana River on one of the world’s longest single-span bridges.
2. Fort Bragg Smoke Train: The California train chugs through towering trees, tunnels, over bridges and past open meadows on what is known as the “Redwood Route” following the same route it has since 1885. On the Northspur Route a barbecue in the redwood forest is included.
3. Polar Express: Nearly every state has a Polar Express that takes the young and young-at-heart to the North Pole while the book of the same name is read, cookies are served, and songs sung. When it arrives at Santa’s workshop, the jolly fellow boards the train and gives those who believe a bell – just like in the book.
4. Verde Canyon: Located in Arizona near Jerome and Sedona the train runs from Clarkdale to Perkinsville through the walls of Verde Canyon, near ancient Native American sites, with bald eagles watching from their nests.
5. Greenfield Village: Some historic villages have incorporated trains as part of preserving their heritage. Such is the case of Henry Ford’s Greenfield Village in Michigan where visitors can tour the village on a train pulled by one of the village’s historic steam or diesel locomotives.
6. Adirondack Railroad: Hop on board the train in Utica, New York, and head to Thendara through the forests, past pristine rivers, breathing the fresh mountain air while enjoying the beauty of the six-million acre Adirondack Park. Relive the golden age of railroading when the Adirondacks played host to the rich and famous on their way to the Great Camps.
7. Strasburg, Pennsylvania: Ride through Pennsylvania Dutch Country on the Strasburg Railroad that started in 1832. It didn’t purchase its first passenger car until 1861 when President Lincoln made his inaugural train ride to nearby Lancaster and nearly 5,000 people showed up to cheer for Lincoln during his four-minute stop in Leaman.
8. Peru’s Hiram Bingham: One of the most luxurious train trips is aboard the Orient Express train to the mystical ruins of Machu Picchu. The day starts sipping mimosas while watching folk dances followed by gourmet meals with a guided tour of the ruins, along with the excellent service one comes to expect of the Orient Express.
9. The Little Trains of Wales: There are several narrow gauge steam railways in Wales, some of which have been in operation for over 100 years. They have been lovingly restored and maintained. They offer a leisurely ride through the beautiful countryside, past lakes to small picturesque villages.
10. Australia’s Legendary Ghan: One way to get the feel of the immensity of Australia is to take the Ghan between Adelaide and Darwin witnessing the varied landscape and traveling through the vast barrenness of the Outback. The entire trip of nearly 2000 miles takes about 24 hours.

Explore Uruguay, South America’s best kept secret

2012-02-02T02:05:00.000-08:00

Tucked between Brazil and Argentina, two South American “ tourist biggies,” is Uruguay, South America’s best kept secret. It has a World Heritage site, a plethora of beaches, thermal spas, working guest ranches, friendly people, and a tranquil ambiance that is hard to find in today’s frantic world.

Most of the historic aspects of Montevideo, the capital, can be conquered in a day but the charm is found when wandering along La Rambla. The Ramble stretches along the water from the Old City to the neighborhood of Carrasco past parks and beaches dotted with fishermen, bathers, street performers, and home to the popular weekend Port Market.

The premiere beach destination is Punta del Este, which is second only to Rio as the place to be seen in South America. There are beautiful beaches, whale and seal watching boat trips, great restaurants, Vegas-style shows, casinos, art galleries, golfing, and everything one would expect from a world class destination. Punta del Este is proud of its weeklong Carnaval that rivals Montevideo’s.

A favorite spot to enjoy a spectacular sunset is Punta Ballena only 10 minutes from the heart of Punta del Este. Punta Ballena is also home to the unique Casapueblo. The architecture of the rambling home, studio, and hotel created by artist Paez Villero brings to mind peaks of whipped cream.

West of Montevideo is Colonia del Sacramento, an UNESCO World Heritage City, and a great place to wander along the cobblestone streets. Dating from the 17th century, the old city boasts a beautifully preserved colonial ambiance. There is easy access by fast ferry to Buenos Aires. It is a relaxing place to wander about then have mate tea at one of the many restaurants with outdoor seating. Side trips to a winery, a new and growing industry in Uruguay, are popular.

While Montevideo, Punta del Este, and Colonia are the most popular tourist destinations, the thermals north of Colonia near Salto are all-season destinations. In the 1940s while drilling for oil, pockets of pure hot water were discovered that led to the development of resort hotels. The Hotel Horacio Quiroga, located on the Rio Uruguay, is just one of several resorts with thermal pools, a water park, spa, golfing, sailboat rides, and nightly events that include tango dance lessons. The temperature of the pure water in the pools and piped to the accommodations averages about 104 degree Fahrenheit and is considered therapeutic. Tours of the Salto Grande Dam and several museums are close by.

The interior of Uruguay is mainly farmland and where visitors can really feel the pulse of Uruguay while staying on an Estancia Turistica, a working ranch. Dotted throughout the country most estancias offer excellent accommodations with the opportunity to get up close and personal with the day-to-day running of a ranch, maybe even riding with the gauchos. Each estancia is different with many offering bird watching, horseback riding, and other eco-related activities. La Paz Estancia, near Paysandu, was one of the first tourist ranches. It continues as a Charolais breeding farm and sheep ranch. La Paz has maintained its rustic character with accommodations in an historic 1860s building, their own church, and plenty of open space to breathe free but it also has a pool and a small spa. Guests can help herd the sheep if they so wish, enjoy the spa, or, best of all, do nothing.

Great places to visit in California

2012-01-22T00:02:00.001-08:00

There are wonderful places in California off the beaten track. We have been to San Francisco and San Diego but some of our favorite places are the small places that we stumble on.
1. Calvaras: Get the lead out! Head to Angel’s Camp in Calavaras County to learn the relationship between Twain’s “Celebrated Jumping Frog” and lead. Mark Twain wrote “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County”, a tall tale of the life and happenings in the gold rush town of Angels Camp.
2. Catalina Island: Just 26 miles from LA, the Island is a step into the past. For an exciting, informative tour of Catalina board the Catalina Adventure Tour bus. On their Inside Adventure Tour learn about the island William Wrigley, Jr. of chewing gum fame purchased for $5 million in 1919 – sight unseen.
3. Ojai: Ojai is a small-town hideaway north of Los Angles between Santa Barbara and Ventura with eucalyptus trees, hiking/biking trails, unique shops, and small ranches. A ride on the inexpensive trolley is an excellent way to get acquainted with the area.
4. Oxnard: Discover “the land of endless summer.” Its crowning glory is the seven miles of beautiful beaches. Discover the nearby Channel Islands referred to as the American Galapagos. It is a top scuba diving area with naturalist led hikes plus camping and wildlife viewing.
5. The Gold Rush: On January 24, 1848, James W. Marshal was building a sawmill for his partner Captain John Sutter. He noticed a gold nugget and the rush for gold began and the lives of millions and the course of American history changed forever. Follow the Gold Rush along the National Park’s California Historic Trail.
6. Fort Bragg: Fort Bragg is an excellent base for exploring Mendocino County. Take the Skunk Train 40 miles through the scenic redwood forest between Fort Bragg on the coast and the town of Willits on US Highway 101, making it one of the world’s premier train rides.
7. Muir Woods: Only 12 miles from the San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge is the old-growth coastal redwood forest of Muir Woods National Monument. "This is the best tree-lovers monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world," declared conservationist John Muir.
8. Death Valley: Death Valley is the hottest place in the United States and the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere. Visit Cathedral Canyon, Emigrant Pass, China Ranch, old mines, cave houses, Skull rock, Furnace Creek, a Borax Museum and the Amargosa Opera House.
9. Napa: California’s Napa Valley may be all about wine but there is plenty to do. Start the day at the crack of dawn with a balloon ride. At the northern part watch the Calistoga Geyser, a slightly smaller version of Old Faithful. The geyser spouts off every 45 minutes shooting boiling water 60 feet into the air. Nearby is the Petrified Forest. End the day with a Sunset Napa River trip in a quiet electric boat.
10. Half Moon Bay: Savvy surfers, seashell seekers, creators of castles in the sand, beach bums, nurturers of nature, and those looking for relaxing rejuvenation will find it in Half Moon Bay. Head north to Fitzgerald Marine Reserve to experience a spectacular stretch of coastline. Wander Pillar Point docks where the fishermen bring in the fresh catch of the day ranging from sardines to salmon.

Celebrating Chinese New Year in Hong Kong

2012-01-16T05:53:00.000-08:00

“Kung hei fat choy” is the traditional New Year greeting; it means, “Wishing you success and prosperity.” This year Chinese New Year celebrating begins on January 23 – the Year of the Dragon. A few years ago we were in Hong Kong during Chinese New Year. Chinese New Year is like our Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year celebrations all rolled into one. It is a time to give thanks, celebrate with the family, and look forward to a new year with optimism.

Hong Kong has one of the most elaborate Chinese New Year Celebrations. Most of the modern skyscrapers, some of which are 30 stories high that line the harbor have huge neon holiday decorations on the harbor side. Like all holidays Chinese New Year is set in tradition. Houses are cleaned to a fare-thee-well and decorated with flowers. Families visit the flower market to get a kumquat or tangerine tree, which would be like a Christmas tree in the Western world. Kumquats and tangerines are considered symbols of good luck because they are golden, the color that signifies money. The word for tangerine in Chinese has the same sound as the Chinese word for "luck." The most common flower for Chinese New Year is the narcissus. If it blossoms on New Year’s day, it is an indication of good fortune. Every facet of Chinese New Year has a special meaning.

Like Western holidays it is traditional for the whole family to gather for a huge meal with fish being the most important food because the Chinese word for fish sounds like the word for abundance. During Chinese New Year it is traditional to give children red envelopes with money inside. These are called lai see envelopes which means “lucky.”

On New Year’s morning we awoke at the Langham Hotel to find a red silk bag on our doorknob filled with New Year goodies - traditional candies and gold covered chocolate coins. To usher in the year there was a Lion Dance in the lobby to bring good luck and happiness in the New Year. The Lion (two people in a lion costume) danced around to the beat of large drums and clanging of cymbals to drive away evil spirits. One of the most amazing aspects of the performance occurred when the lion had to stand on his back legs and jump up to reach pieces of lettuce that were hanging from the high ceiling. The word lettuce sounds like money in Chinese. The lion dance has been popular for over 1000 years and most neighborhoods have similar version.

Hong Kong hosts a magnificent parade, which can be watched in a traditional manner from the street, but we were lucky enough to get tickets for the finale. For more than an hour the marching and performing units from a variety of countries paraded through the arena pausing to put on a short performance. The next night we joined thousands of people along the waterfront to watch the amazing fireworks.

Essentially all business comes to a halt during Chinese New Year, which lasts well over a week. Even though there are many public celebrations, for the Chinese New Year’s week is a time for family and for some the only vacation of the year. We were fortunate to be able to ring in the new year twice – once in the US and once in Hong Kong.

Eating Good in Albania

2012-01-09T16:46:00.000-08:00

My 93-year-old mother, who loves to cook, often says, “Nothing I make tastes like my mother use to make.” I agree with her but didn’t realize how much our ingredients had changed in flavor until I visited Albania. The Albanian government’s isolationist policy kept Albania a rural county where little had changed in 50 years. When I visited in 2009, with a democratic government in place, things were changing. There were a few new hotels and roads were being upgraded. After touring the capital of Tirana and the nearby pretty, hillside city of Kruja, John and I, took the bus from Tirana to Berat, less than three hours away. Berat, one of Albania’s oldest cities, was named to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2009. It is called “The White City” or “The City of 1000 Eyes” because of the tiers of white houses that line the hillside below the citadel. We toured the citadel – we were the only tourists. Located at a strategic point it has wonderful views of the area. It was first fortified in the 4th century BC.

Our guide in Tirana had told us that the best food in Berat was at the Mangalemi Hotel Restaurant. We stayed at the Castle Hotel high on the hill about the city but the Mangalemi Hotel has nice rooms. We did enjoy eating at their restaurant. I ordered one of my favorite meals, stuffed peppers. The first bite caused a flavor burst from the past. “Oh, my, this tastes just like my mother and grandmother use to make.” Valter Mio, the owner chuckled and explained, “We were organic before organic was popular. Our country was so poor we couldn’t afford to import pesticides, fertilizers, or fancy engineered seeds.” I asked him to give our compliments to the cook, who turned out to be his mother, Violeta. We were invited into the kitchen to meet her. Violeta was busy cooking but willing to share her recipes as she continued to work. While she was washing spinach for a dish she was planning to make she explained that her recipes were ones she had learned from her mother who, in turn, had learned them from her mother. My favorite was the stuffed peppers but John preferred the Yogurt Lamb and we both enjoyed Violeta’s baklava for dessert. Lamb is one of those foods that people either love or dislike. This is a great recipe that cuts through some of the distinct lamb taste that some object to.

Yogurt Lamb (serves four)
1.5 lbs of boneless lamb
4 ounces butter
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons rice
4 ounces of boiling water
32 ounces yogurt
3 eggs
2 tablespoons of flour

Cut the lamb into 1-inch pieces. Put lamb in a roasting pan with half of the quantity of butter, salt and pepper. Roast at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes. Roasting will not be complete. Remove from the oven and add rice and boiling water. Return to the oven and roast for another 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it cool for 15 minutes. In a bowl mix yogurt, eggs and flour until a uniform color. Mix in the rest of the butter. Add the yogurt mixture to the roasting pan. Mix well with the pieces of meat and rice and put it back in the oven for another 15 minutes or until top is brown.

Places to Visit on the Way to Florida

2012-01-03T07:22:00.000-08:00

Slow down! There are so many wonderful places in the United States and, of course, the whole world to see. Often we move too fast without seeing what is on the way. Now that we have the time John and I try to travel slow and stay in one place longer than we use to. People travel between New York State and Florida with the aim of getting to their destination as quickly as possible. Other people try to impress by saying, “I drove non-stop to Florida” or “I made the trip in x-number of hours.” Actually it makes me feel sad about all the great things they missed along the way. There are so many great places to stop when traveling to and from Florida. Consider Baltimore, Fripps Island, and Savannah.

Baltimore is one of those wonderful locations that has reinvented its harbor area. What was once an eyesore is now a dynamic inner harbor with museums, hotels, and restaurants. It is the location of one of my all-time favorite museums, The American Visionary Art Museum where there are works of art not seen anywhere else. They are all original artworks created by intuitive, self-taught artists that provoke, amuse, intrigue, and appeal to everyone. They say, “In short, visionary art begins by listening to the inner voices of the soul, and often may not even be thought of as 'art' by its creator.” If art is not your thing, Baltimore is home to the Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum, Edgar Allan Poe’s grave, USS Constellation, a world-class aquarium, and Fort McHenry of “The Star Spangled Banner” fame.

No less exclusive but not as costly, Fripp Island is often overshadowed by nearby Hilton Head. We were on Fripp Island in October when we were the only people there and we loved it. The best pastime was doing nothing but walking along the beach, enjoying a good book, watching the ever-changing ocean, and spotting a Snowy White Egret catch his dinner. For campers the adjacent Hunting Island State Park is one of the most popular state parks and beach areas in South Carolina. Hunting Island is not just another beach it is a nature and wildlife paradise. The pristine sandy beach, natural setting, and warm Atlantic Ocean makes it perfect for camping or renting a cabin right on the beach. With an historic 1859-lighthouse, lagoon, fishing pier, wide sweeping beach, and nature trails it is a “kick-back” place for the whole family. Just a few miles away is the pretty, historic town of Beaufort.

There are many other places along the Atlantic Coast for an interesting stop when heading south. Savannah, Georgia is a place I would love to revisit. There is something about Savannah’s live oaks dripping with lacy Spanish Moss that makes it seem different from other US cities. I read “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” and watched “Forest Gump” which made visiting the city more interesting. Colonial Park Cemetery is the historic burial ground where, Button Gwinnett, a signer of the Declaration of Independence is reposed. During the Civil War bored soldiers changed the dates on the stones so it appears that some people lived 100s of years and others died before they were born. Visitors can take a walking, carriage, trolley or river tour to learn about the city’s history. Slow down and enjoy the trip.

Dessert Menu Should be Presented First

2012-01-03T07:10:00.001-08:00

I would like to know who started the concept of having dessert at the end of a meal. After eating Snicker Peanut Butter Pie at the Seneca Niagara Casino Hotel in Niagara Falls, New York, John and I agreed on three new dining-out rules. Rule One: When the waitstaff presents us with the dinner menu we will now ask, “May we please see the dessert menu first?” How can we expect to make an intelligent entrée choice without knowing what is available for dessert. There have been many times that we have finished a wonderful meal and have had to decline an awesome looking dessert because we were too full.

Luckily when we were at the Seneca Niagara Hotel we had been given a dining tip, “Make sure you try the Peanut Butter Snicker Pie at the Western Door Restaurant.” The restaurant, which is one of two Four Diamond restaurants in Western New York, honors the Seneca Nation who, as part of the Iroquois Confederation, were the Keepers of the Western Door. In other words, they protected the confederation from attacks from the west. The Seneca Niagara Casino Hotel is the best place to stay, by far, when visiting Niagara Falls, New York. Besides great gaming they have an extensive spa with a salon, a pool, big-name entertainment and great restaurants.

Knowing that dessert was in our future we went light on dinner. Luckily John ordered a small portion of Chilled Seafood Deluxe, an amazing array of lobster tails, shrimp, oysters, clams and Alaskan king crab with cocktail sauce & shallot mignonette. All seafood is flown in fresh daily. I ordered something I seldom see on a menu, stuffed peppers, but the winner in our estimation was the dessert – the Peanut Butter Snicker Pie. However, even though we had a light meal we still ended up sharing one piece but it was so good John said, “We will have one to go.” When away from home it is important to have something in the room for a late night snack. So Rule Two: Always order a dessert to go. And, Rule Three: Get the recipe. I use to be embarrassed to ask for a recipe because I thought that the chef would not want to give away the “secret” recipe. Sometimes that is the case but most often the chefs are so pleased with the request that they are willing to share.

Peanut Butter Snicker Pie
Peanut Butter Crust
2 oz butter
½ cup granulated sugar
1 cup flour
1 egg
1 ¼ cup peanut butter
Beat butter, sugar and peanut butter until smooth. Add egg and flour. Mix well. Roll out crust, put in pie pan, bake at 275F for 10 minutes. Cool.
Peanut Butter Filling
1 pound butter
1 1/4 cup powdered sugar
1 1/4 cup peanut butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
Beat butter and sugar until fluffy. Add peanut butter and vanilla, mix well
Ganache
10 ounces dark chocolate
5 oz heavy cream
Simmer heavy cream in a pot. Take off heat and add chopped chocolate. Stir constantly until smooth. If chocolate is not completely melted put back on stove on low heat stirring constantly. Add peanut butter filling layer to the cool crust. Lastly spread the ganache in a thin layer over top of pie. Let cool until ganache hardens, slice and enjoy.

Things to do in Seneca Falls

2011-12-19T14:59:00.000-08:00

Seneca Falls has received a lot of press lately due to its connection with the film “It’s a Wonderful Life” but there are other great things to do in this canal-side town. Seneca Falls is believed to be the inspiration for the movie “It’s a Wonderful Life.” It is known that the director, Frank Capra, visited Seneca Falls plus many of the names used in the movie are names familiar to the village. The bridge is similar to the one in the movie. A plaque remembers another tragic account of what really happened on the bridge. While the connection to the classic holiday film is interesting there are other attractions in this Central New York village in addition to the “It’s a Wonderful Life’ Museum.

1.IDEA: Located in the same building as the Wonderful Life Museum, IDEA is a most unique museum dedicated to overcoming the stigma of leprosy. However, the greater goal is to eliminate social injustice worldwide by focusing on the dignity and value of each human being.
2. The Women’s Right National Historic Park: As part of the National Park Service the site preserves several locations associated with the 1848 First Women’s Rights Convention. In the main hall visitors will see the “First Wave,” statues of those who were among the first to promote women’s rights. A video explores the concept of equality.
3.National Women’s Hall of Fame: The Hall of Fame recalls and honors great American women through exhibit. The honored women come from all walks of life having contributed significantly to the fabric of American life and society.
4.The Cayuga-Seneca Canal: The canal gave birth to the village. Today it is a recreational area with docking facilities for boaters. Those without a boat can enjoy a trip along the canal on Mid-Lakes Navigation Company’s Emita II locking through to the Erie Canal.
5.Seneca Falls Historical Society Museum: Tour the 23-room 1880 Queen Anne mansion and step into the Victorian era. The house has much of the original fixtures and furnishings along with extensive lawns, a Seth Thomas clock poised atop a small clock tower, and an outbuilding called the Beehive.
6.Museum of Waterways and Industry: The museum is an orientation point for local and regional history especially exploring the impact of waterways and industry on the area. There are hands-on exhibits to help children experience an earlier time without today’s machines.
7.Finger Lakes Wine Trails: Seneca Falls is the perfect location from which to visit the more than 70 wineries located in the Finger Lakes Region. There are many nearby wineries offering tastings including Goose Watch, Montezuma, and Swedish Hill.
8.Clarence Hotel: The newly renovated and rebranded hotel is named for George Bailey’s guardian angel. The film plays throughout the day in the lobby. Located in the center of Seneca Falls it is within walking distance to most attractions.
9. Sculpture Trail: Follow the Frank J. Ludovico Sculpture Trail along the canal on an abandoned railroad bed. The art sculptures started as a tribute to the Women’s Rights movement but now there are statues that are associated with Seneca Falls in some way.
10. And: The home of Elizabeth Cady Stanton, one of the organizers of the Seneca Convention. Nature lovers will want to visit Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge with bald eagles and ospreys. Both are just a short drive away.

The Creole Nature Trail in Southwest Louisiana.

2011-12-13T21:09:00.000-08:00

When John and I were in Lake Charles we took the opportunity to explore the natural wonders of Southwest Louisiana. The Pintail Wildlife Drive is just part of The Creole Nature Trail, which is recognized as a National Scenic Byway by the Federal Highway Administration's America 's Byways program in 1996. And, in 2002, it was upgraded to an All-American Road. Our first stop was at the Visitor’s Center at the Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge. They have exhibits explaining the unique aspects of the area. One display showed the largest alligator caught in the area – 19 feet and two inches and a whopping 1000 pounds. Amazing. Recently a resident shot a gator that ambling up on his lawn. It officially measured 13 feet and 5 inches and weighed around 700 pounds. There is a hunting season on alligators. The skin and meat are saleable items. During the gator discussion my desire to see an alligator in the wild disappeared. I’ll settle for an occasional skunk or raccoon in my yard. The Visitor Center had a great animatronic called “Tante Marie,” an old Cajun lady. In the diorama she poled out in her pirogue and talked about life in the bayou. Animatronics are talking statues that add an interesting aspect to museum visits.

Nearby is the Pintail Wildlife drive, a three-mile driving loop through moist soil wetlands, which have been manipulated by the US Fish & Wildlife Service to provide a feeding and resting habitat for wintering waterfowl. It is on a flyway so there are a variety of birds year round. A new handicap accessible walking boardwalk trail opened in 2010. Technology has made nature trails more informative. An audio tour of the Creole Nature Trail All American Road is an excellent way to make the most of a visit. These downloadable tours are divided into trail segments so visitors can use as many or as few as they wish. Once downloaded, they can be loaded onto a mp3 player or burned to a CD. Either way visitors will have a host of information at their fingertips. We walked the boardwalk and then drove around the adjacent driving loop. We didn’t see any alligators, phew, but they say alligators outnumber people 10 to one! We saw plenty of birds as the area is on a flyway. We saw herons and a couple varieties of ducks.The Creole Nature Trail has 180 miles of bayous, marshlands and beaches. There just wasn’t time to see it all so we headed to Shell Beach. The Trail has 26 miles of beaches. Shell beach seemed to go on forever and basically deserted except for a family fishing. Luckily I had picked up a guide to shells at the Visitor Center and enjoyed looking for the various shells along the “trash line.” The trash line is where the waves hit the shore and leaves “treasures.” It was the best shell-picking beach we have been to. We could see oil rigs out in the Gulf of Mexico but the beach and water were pristine.
We based ourselves in Lake Charles at the L’Auberge Casino Resort where there was plenty to do every evening. During the day there were museums, historical drives, and plenty of other things to do. There were things we didn’t get to do: fishing, boating, and golfing – next time. For more information check on visitlakecharles.org

December 7 attack on Guam

2011-12-05T08:39:00.000-08:00

The Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in Hawaii on December 7, 1941 became the “Day of Infamy” but other American territories were also attacked that day. They tend to get lost in the annuals of history because Pearl Harbor became a historic event leading America into World War II. Also confusing the issue when it was December 7 in Hawaii it was December 8 in Guam due to the island’s location to the west of the International Dateline,

On the same day the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, they also attacked Guam, Wake Island, and the Commonwealth of the Philippines, which at the time was under control of the United States. The Japanese also, on the same day, invaded the British crown colony of Hong Kong resulting in its occupation, and Thailand where the Japanese continued on down the peninsula to Malaysia.

I always like to “learn the rest of the story” and we did when John and I visited the T. Stell Newman Visitor Center of the War in the Pacific National Park in Guam. Only hours after Pearl Harbor was attacked, the Japanese began aerial bombings on Guam. After two days of strafing, the Japanese came ashore and hours later the naval governor surrendered the American territory. The Japanese invasion of Guam resulted in 21 deaths (fourteen Americans and seven Chamorros). Some 483 prisoners of war that included 368 military personnel and 115 civilians were interned on Guam before being sent to a POW camp in Japan. The island remained under Japanese control for 31 months until July 21, 1944.

The Japanese thought all the Americans had been captured and were upset to learn that six American military personnel managed to escape to a safe place on the island. This became a very serious issue for the Japanese military because it meant that they had not totally secured the island as they had reported to the Japanese head command in Tokyo. After an intensive search, three escapees were found and executed in September 1942 and two others were found and shot in October of that same year. Only U.S. Navy radioman first class George Tweed eluded capture and was finally rescued by a U.S. Navy ship ten days before the July 21, 1944 American landing and liberation on Guam. Tweed’s status, as an U.S. military holdout, was a most serious matter for the Japanese Navy during the entire occupation period of thirty one months. Tweed was never captured due to the efforts of one family who kept his hideout in a cave a secret and took him food and supplies. During the American assault to recapture the island in 1944 Tweed was able to signal the offshore boats giving them the location of gun placements on the island.

On July 21, 1944, now known as Liberation Day, American forces landed on Guam and after almost three weeks of bitter fighting that claimed 1,600 American servicemen and almost the entire 18,000 Japanese Army the island was declared ‘secure’ and Guam was again in American hands. But the last Japanese holdout on Guam did not surrender until 1972. Shoichi Yokoi survived hiding in an underground cave in a remote section of the island of Guam for 28 years.

Today Guam has an American military base on the island. Interestingly, Guam is a popular tropical tourist destination for the Japanese.

Things to do in Juneau, Alaska

2011-11-28T19:09:00.000-08:00

Juneau is a great little city for the day or a couple days. A few years ago John and I spend several days exploring the city. Here are some of the things we discovered.
1. Your first stop should be at the top. Take an exhilarating ride to the 1800-foot level of Mount Roberts to experience one of the most expansive and beautiful views offered in all Alaska. Have a meal with a view, walk the trail, visit the Nature Center. Don’t miss the Chilkat Theater for an introduction to the Tlingit culture through the award winning film “Seeing Daylight.”
2. Rent a car, it is cheaper than a cab or taking a tour plus you have the freedom to do as you please. You can do it all as there are only 41 miles of roads! Drive along the coast to the Shrine of St. Theresa where you can enjoy the silence of the old stone chapel, wildflowers in the woods, views of the Lynn Canal, plus see lots of birds.
3. See the salmon run at the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery. Salmon are propagated at the hatchery and released season after season. After a journey to parts unknown the salmon return mystically to the hatchery where they splash and jump up over steel gates returning to their birthplace to breed and die. Great place to buy fish.
4. Learn about Alaska at the State Museum. It is home to more than 23,000 artifacts, works of fine art and natural history and features both permanent and temporary exhibitions. The museum is located within walking distance of the cruise ship terminal.
5. Ice is nice! Get up close and personal with the Mendenhall Glacier. Go trekking. Northstar Trekking offers three levels of glacier trekking designed for those who only want to step on a glacier to those looking for an over-the-edge experience. Each of the treks includes approximately 30 minutes of sightseeing by helicopter before landing on the glacier.
6. What’s brewing? Learn about the history of brewing in Alaska and the 100-year old recipe that inspired their Alaskan Amber. View the brewing, fermentation and bottling systems. The best part is the free sampling!
7. Go for the gold. Hop the ferry and take the Golden Circle tour, from Juneau to Skagway where you can ride the White Pass & Yukon tourist train along the gold route through the mountains, pass glaciers, gorges, and waterfalls.
8. Have a whale of a time. Seeing huge whales in their native habitat counts as one of life's great experiences. Each summer humpbacks migrate to Alaska from their winter home in the warm waters off Hawaii. Many companies offer tours at various rates.
9. For three times the fun experience a float plane ride to the remote Taku Lodge, view several glaciers, enjoy a traditional salmon bake and still have time for a walk on the wild side in the Alaskan wilderness.
10. Behind the swingin’ doors of the Red Dog Saloon the fun never stops. The sawdust on the floors, the flag-drapped ceiling, and Earp’s gun are just some of the things that add to the ambiance of this watering hole. Ask the band to play “Mule Train,” turn your chair around and ride your “mule-chair” around the saloon.
For more things to do in Juneau, check Juneau Convention & Visitors Bureau, http://www.traveljuneau.com/, or call (888) 581-2201.

Visiting Lake Charles' Imperial Calcasieu Museum

2011-11-28T18:37:00.000-08:00

The Sallier Oak is majestic and one of the oldest and largest trees in Louisiana. It is estimated to be about 400 years old, which means it has witnessed much of the area’s history. It is a live oak, which does not grow in northern climes. The tree’s impressive limbs stretch out with some resting on the ground for support. The tree is covered with a topcoat of Resurrection Fern. The fern, which does not damage the tree, uses the oak as a host and springs to life after a little rainfall.

The Sallier Oak is located behind the Imperial Calcasieu Museum that was the home of Charles Anselm Sallier, the namesake founder of the city. The tree is a testament to the desire to survive. After the Hurricane of 1918, the tree began to split down the middle and was chained back together with heavy iron chains. These have now grown into the tree and can still be seen hanging out of the bark of the tree. The north side of the tree was damaged by lightning in the 1930’s and caught fire. Many of the branches on the north side were lost which gave the oak the leaning appearance it has today but the tree still survives and is given tender loving care to make sure it continues to survive.

One of the things that make museums so wonderful is that there is always something of interest to everyone. John was most interested in the Sallier Oak while I always enjoy the displays and artifacts from an earlier time. They had an Edison “talking machine” which still works. While we were there a Chinese-American visitor was excited to see memorabilia from General Claire Lee Chennault, an American World War II member of the U.S. Army Air Corps and once a resident of Lake Charles. John and I had never heard of Chennault but the other visitor knew all about Chennault and mentioned, “Chennault is famous in China. All the school children know who he is because he commanded the “Flying Tigers.” The Flying Tigers were a volunteer group that helped to defend China from Japanese invasion.

John and I always enjoy driving around historic neighborhoods looking at houses. The Charpentier District, on the National Register of Historic Places, covers 40 blocks with hundreds of turn-of-the-century buildings of mixed styles. Even though each building has its own unique charm from wrap-around porches to gambles to towers to gingerbread there is one distinct Lake Charles feature – the Lake Charles Column. It is unique in that the paneled, slightly tapered square column developed in Lake Charles around 1905 and can be found on a variety of buildings. The Margaret Place section of the historic district has a wonderful collection of Victorian architecture from the 1800s. A family who must have been preparing for a Halloween celebration came out on their porch to wave to us – true Southern Hospitality.

During the 1800s, experienced lumbermen known locally as "Michigan Men" arrived in Lake Charles. They introduced the Victorian architectural style popular in America at the time. However, the 1911 City Hall is Spanish Baroque. The architecture of the area is an eclectic mix; or, as they say “making gumbo out of anything including architecture.” Visitors can take a walking or driving tour of the historic district, or enjoy a carriage ride. Carriage rides leave from the newly completed Lakefront Promenade. For more information check Visitlakecharles.org.

Eatin' Boudin in Lake Charles

2011-11-20T15:51:00.000-08:00

Recently John and I were in Lake Charles, Louisiana and went on the Boudin Trail. No kidding! Boudin is so popular that they have created a trail that leads from one boudin maker to another. Each boudin maker uses their secret family recipe but generally boudin is made with meat and rice. It is considered the signature dish of Southwest Louisiana enjoyed as a meal and is great at snack time. Boudin comes from the French Cajuns who settled in Louisiana after being driven out of Nova Scotia by the British in the 1700s. Years ago Cajun families would get together to slaughter a hog, an event known as a boucherie. They used everything from the “rooter to the tooter.” Nothing was left to waste so boudin was made of the leftover parts of the hog.

Today boudin is usually made with ground pork, liver, rice, parsley, onions, salt, black pepper, red pepper, and other seasonings. The sausage can be steamed or smoked. Some even create their own special boudin by using shrimp, crawfish and alligator. There is even organic and vegetarian boudin.

Our first stop was B&O Kitchen in Sulfur where the fourth generation was at work learning the trade. It was quite obvious that the owner, Jeff Cortina, was proud of his product. His boudin was excellent, he shared that he did not use liver and uses only the highest quality ingredients. He makes about 200 lbs a day, which is amazing since his place resembles a mom-and-pop meat market. One thing John and I fell in love with was his cracklin’. Cracklin’ is another Cajun treat – a great snack – it a piece of deep-fried pork fat with a small amount of the skin attached. It is similar to bacon rinds but, oh, so much better. Jeff said, “Timing when boiling the cracklin’ in the oil is critical. There is a two-minute window between success and failure.

Our next stop was Hollier’s Cajun Kitchen also in Sulphur. They serve meals along with their meat products. Mike Hollier, one of the owners, said they make over 10,000 pounds a month. Hollier includes liver because that is the Cajun way but he uses only a little liver so as not to overpower the taste. “It’s a good way to get kids to eat liver,” he quipped. At one time they raised the hogs behind the store but the business has grown so they no longer have the time to tend to the hogs but they still know the source of their meat and use only the finest ingredients. He also makes crawfish boudin when they are in season. The Boudin Trail has 29 stops – that’s a lot of boudin sampling.

Southwest Louisiana is the place for good eatin’. One day we ate at Seafood Palace in Lake Charles known as the home of the best gumbo in the area. Gumbo is a thick soup that originated in the area at the same time boudin did. It can be made with meat or shellfish and the “holy trinity” of celery, bell peppers and onion along with special seasonings. We tried alligator for the first time. It didn’t taste like chicken! The flavor was quite delicate. It was very tasty but then again it was deep-fried which makes most things taste great! No doubt about it… the eatin’ was good when we were in Lake Charles.

Exploring Niagara County

2011-11-20T15:45:00.000-08:00

The city of Lockport, just a few miles east of Niagara Falls, straddles the Erie Canal. In fact it is another place that exists because of the Erie Canal. The Flight of Five locks was considered an engineering marvel of its day and allowed canal boats to change elevation. It was replaced in 1918 by two much larger locks and the original locks are now used as a spillway. There are storyboards along the canal and a great little museum. I applaud people who create something out of what many people though was nothing. People can take a boat ride on the canal but next to the canal is a one-of-a-kind underground boat ride that claims to be America’s longest underground boat ride. The guided tour includes a walk through a 1,600-foot tunnel blasted in the mid-1800s and used for waterpower and a ride on an underground boat. There are stalactites, various geological formations and artifacts left behind by the men who built the tunnel. It is especially popular around Halloween when it becomes a haunted tunnel.

We used our Priority Club Points to stay at the local Holiday Inn. The next day we drove north to Murphy Orchards. It was another example of someone thinking creatively by creating a multi-use property. There is an orchard with a country store selling all sorts of apples and pumpkins. They offer wagon rides but they added to the experience by creating tearooms in the historic brick house. The main reason we visited was because we heard it was an Underground Railroad site. In the barn there is a very small room beneath the floor where, between 1850 and 1861, the McClew family hid runaway slaves on their way to freedom in Canada. The runaways would only be sequestered when they were in danger of being captured. The words “underground” and “railroad” have led to some confusion as it was never a railroad and most “safe” places were not underground. It is thought that the room was originally built around 1812 as a place for the family to hide from the invading British troops during the War of 1812. There is a good video and several informative signboards.

I was surprise to learn that the word “stranger” in a cemetery census was used as a way to indicate that a runaway slave was buried there. They didn’t want to indicated where a slave was buried for fear that a slave catcher would dig up the body and take it South for the money offered for runaway slaves “dead or alive.”

We continued north to Olcutt to see their lighthouse, which is a replica of one from the 1870s. At one time Olcutt was a popular beach destination and served as a port of entry receiving grain from Canada that was sent onward to Rochester and Oswego. Around 1930 the lighthouse was no longer needed, it was relocated and deteriorated. A citizens group formed, raised money and built a replica lighthouse. The area is experiencing a “rebirth” with another group working to restore the original 1928 Herschell-Spillman carousel. The Herschell Carrousel Factory Museum is in nearby North Tonawanda. The company was one of the most prolific carrousels makers specializing in ones that were portable and could be used by traveling carnival operators. The company produced over 3000 hand-craved carrousels, many of which are still in operation. It is a fun tour.

Niagara Falls, New York

2011-11-20T15:37:00.000-08:00

Even though I have been to Niagara Falls many times it never fails to impress me. The falls are mesmerizing. This was the first time we stayed at the Seneca Niagara Casino. We could see the spray of the Falls from our room and it was a short walk to the center of the Falls-viewing activities. The park area around the falls is much nicer than I remember and there is a trolley connecting various attractions. No visit to Niagara Falls is complete without a trip on the Maid of the Mist. It is a wonderful experience. We were lucky to board at noon after all the tour groups had moved on. I remember reading that upon seeing Niagara Falls Abraham Lincoln exclaimed, “Where does all that water come from?” Four of the Great Lakes, of course. It may sound a bit inane but the amount of water that gushes over the falls continuously is truly impressive. People have been viewing the falls from the Maid of the Mist since 1836. All of the viewing boats, past and present, have carried the same name. It honors a young Indian maiden who was sacrificed at the falls. I heard two versions of her story while I was there – both with the same tragic end.

After the Maid of the Mist we saw the movie at the Niagara Legends of Adventure Theater. It was a wonderful surprise. The film covers the area’s history from earliest times with filming so realistic that it actually looked like people went over the falls while making the film. It is definitely a do-not-miss. We learned more about the falls at the Wax Museum. It was the first time John and I had been to a Wax Musuem. I love the story of 63-year-old former teacher, Annie Taylor, who was the first person to successfully go over the falls in a barrel. She had hoped to make money for her later years but died penniless. She is reported to have said, “I would caution anyone against attempting the feat... I would sooner walk up to the mouth of a cannon, knowing it was going to blow me to pieces than make another trip over the Falls.” The Cave of the Winds is always exciting – and wet! This is the first time we walked the trail from Goat Island to the Three Sisters Islands. The force of the rapids is amazing. There were many foreigners at the falls. It was fun to see how impressed they were. One young man from England said it was his dream to see Niagara Falls and it was more spectacular than he had ever imagined. The trolley also took us to the Aquarium, which we always find interesting. They were feeding the penguins and seals.

Via our car we visited the Whirlpool State Park, Devil’s Hole State Park, the Visitor Center at the Robert Moses Power Project and the Lady of Fatima Shrine. It was a pleasure to return to the Seneca Niagara Casino after a busy day of sightseeing. They have excellent restaurants. We enjoyed the Noodle Bar in the Koi Restaurant and the Four Diamond Western Door Steakhouse. They have a great spa, an indoor swimming pool, and gaming. I think that the casino would make a great winter getaway. The falls must be majestic in the winter

Lewiston, NY: America's Most Historic Square Mile

2011-11-20T15:31:00.000-08:00

President Jimmy Carter deemed Lewiston as “the most historic square mile in America.” Interestingly, in 1901 President McKinley stayed overnight in Lewiston the evening before he was assassinated in Buffalo at the Pan-American Exposition. On October 13, 1812, the United States invaded Canada. Lewiston was the staging area for the Battle of Queenston Heights, the first major battle of the War of 1812. The British retaliated on December 19 capturing nearby Fort Niagara without firing a shot but proceeded onto Lewiston where the attack was described as a “merciless massacre.” In the early to mid-1800s, Lewiston was the last stop for slaves from the South who were seeking freedom in Canada. Lewiston citizens were staunch supporters of the anti-slavery movement and many volunteered to help smuggle slaves across the border.

John and I stayed at the beautiful Barton Inn Hotel & Spa overlooking the Niagara River. The hotel is fairly new but built to look like it has been there for generations. In front of the hotel, by the river, is a statue commemorating the voyage made by many on their way to freedom. It shows Josiah Tryon, the “station master” in Lewiston handing a baby to Harriett Tubman, calleed the “Moses of her People” because of all the people she helped to freedom. Nearby another person is pointing the way to freedom to a slave.

Lewiston also claims to be where the “cocktail” was invented. The only building left unscathed after the Lewiston Massacre was Hustler’s Tavern possibly because the soldiers remembered the good times they had there before the war. Supposedly the owner, Catherine Hustler, is credited with inventing the cocktail when she stirred a "gin mixture" with the tail feather of a stuffed cock. She said it "warms both soul and body and is fit to be put in a vessel of diamonds." It was met favorably and people would ask for “that drink with cock tail.”

Today, Lewiston is one of New York State’s lovely little villages that often gets bypassed because of its proximity to bigger cities and popular attractions. Buffalo and Niagara Falls often overshadow Lewiston. Six to seven thousand years ago Niagara Falls was in the Lewiston area. Today the pretty village rests along the banks of the Niagara River. We were hoping to take the Jet Boat ride but when we were there it was only operating from the Canadian side of the river.

Old Fort Niagara is only a few minutes away. It had been years since we visited. They now have a Visitor Center with a great video of the history of the fort which played an important role in the struggle of France, Great Britain, and the United States to control the Great Lakes region of North America, and also helped shape the destinies of the Iroquois. On display is a huge flag captured by the British in 1813 and recently returned to the fort. I remembered the story of the Ghost of the Haunted Well. It seems that when the French controlled the fort two of the soldiers got into a sword fight over a woman. The victor, to avoid detection, tossed the dead man into the well. But we did not know about Betsy “Fanny” Doyle, a soldier’s wife, who helped load a cannon and gained fame as a heroine of the War of 1812.

Hot Springs: Gangsters, Spas and Nature

2011-11-20T15:23:00.000-08:00

Today Hot Springs is a beautiful, serene place making it hard to imagine that one time it was a hotbed of organized crime and gambling. Gangsters liked Hot Springs because it was a “happenin’ place” and it became a safe haven for outlaws with the police making sure there were “no problems.” Between 1926 and 1967 it was the largest gambling operation in the US. While gambling was never legal it was basically ignored because locals saw gambling as “wealth redistribution” and liked the money it generated. All that changed in 1967 when Winthrop Rockefeller was elected governor and put an end to the gambling. John and I learned about those early days at the Gangster Museum where the guide detailed the those early days and the exploits of Al Capone, Lucky Luciano and other villains who made Hot Springs was their home-away-from-home. Someone quipped that there were never bank robberies in Hot Springs because “…all the robbers were there to relax.” The stories are colorful with one Madame claiming she “…preferred a hit man over a politician. You know what a hit man is going to do.” Gangsters are not be good role models but they lived interesting lives. Today both the gambling and gangsters are just part of the city’s fascinating past.

The city is now known as a spa location but there are also wonderful unique shops. I was especially impressed with Tillman’s Antiques and Collectibles, which is museum-like with beautiful Faberge eggs, a Louis XV leather portfolio where petitioners placed their requests to be submitted to the king, porcelain items from the Chinese Han Dynasty and beautiful estate jewelry.

There are many facets to Hot Springs. Besides the new Museum of Contemporary Art there are several boutique galleries. The Blue Moon Art Gallery calls Hot Springs the “City of the Arts.” The family-owned gallery seeks to discover original and affordable artwork that represents artists, sculptors, and photographers. The first Friday of the month they feature an artist at an Open Reception. Gallery Central and Taylor’s Contemporanea are two other art galleries also offering amazing art. The performing arts have found a home in the Vienna Theater. Ken Goodman, who gave up his day job to follow his dream, takes theatergoers on a trip down memory lane. From the glittering crystal chandelier in the storefront window to the fainting couch in the Ladies’ Room, Goodman offers great entertainment. The night we were there a couple from Canada returned to Hot Springs and brought a couple of friends with them to enjoy the music of the 50s and 60s, a tribute to Broadway, and free homemade treats during intermission. Hopefully the theater survives as Goodman entire family is committed to seeing his dream succeed.

One of the storefronts on Central Avenue offers teaser-displays designed to entice people to visit the Mid-America Science Museum in a bucolic setting just a short distance from the city center. It is the largest science center in Arkansas and was the first of only two Smithsonian Affiliate museums. It offers hours of fun and learning for the entire family. Especially popular are the thrilling roller coaster-type trip on the Virtual Reality Simulator Ride and the gigantic indoor cave with swinging bridges and rope ladders. The Tesla Coil is always good for a hair-raising experience. We were impressed with the way Hot Springs has been reinvented to become a first-class destination.

Garvan Woodland Gardens is beautiful all year

2011-11-20T15:02:00.000-08:00

Just outside of Hot Springs John and I went to the top of the 216-foot Mountain Tower for a panoramic view of the Ouachita Mountains and the Diamond Lakes Region. It was early in the morning and the mist was still rising out of the mountains. Hot Springs, nestled between the ridges, was barely visible. We were impressed with all the trees, rolling mountains, and lakes.

Located just a few miles from Hot Springs, Arkansas, on a peninsula that juts out into beautiful Lake Hamilton, Garvan Woodland Gardens is a 210-acre world-class botanical garden. Verna Garvan, a long-time resident of southern Arkansas, donated the land to the University of Arkansas in 1985. It was a beautiful day. John and I enjoyed wandering the trails. The picturesque Full Moon Bridge in the Garden of the Pine Wind reminded us of our trip to Japan, as did the Bonsai Garden. We had been told not to miss the Anthony Chapel. As we approached the 57-foot tall copper-clad Carillon it chimed the hour creating the perfect mood for our first view of the chapel that seemed to grow out of the forest. The chapel, designed by E. Fay Jones, a disciple of Frank Lloyd Wright, has soaring glass walls and vertical columns that blend beautifully with the tall yellow pines.

Later we stopped at Lookout Point Lakeside Inn, also on Lake Hamilton where we took a pontoon boat ride on the lake. It must be very busy during the summer months but on our tour it was serene with only a few fishermen and another tour boat. Lookout Point Inn is a beautiful new B&B perched on the hillside with beautiful gardens, a bubbling stream and a unique labyrinth trail.

Another day we visited Mountain Harbor Resort on Ouachita Lake, Arkansas’s largest man-made lake. It was named one of the cleanest lakes in America by the EPA. It is part of the Lake Ouachita National Forest and popular for hiking, camping, fishing, swimming, and boating. John went out on a houseboat for a couple hours. We like houseboating but this was a luxury DreamChaser houseboat with six queen bedrooms, two full baths, a hot tub, and a water slide. It sleeps 14! Amazing. Of course, there are smaller ones. I loved their on-shore accommodations that were upscale with a rustic ambiance that suited the forest setting. Everything is within convenient walking distance – the shore, pool, restaurant, Laundromat, marina, and spa. I confess, while John was being wowed by the houseboat I was relaxing at the spa. The area struck me as a great location for “snowbirds.” The entire area including Hot Springs and the lake region has beautiful forested mountains with everything in close proximity. Also, they have four seasons but their winter – well, what they call winter – is usually a few inches of snow for a day or so and then it goes away. I was told that there are several retirement villages in the area but they also mentioned that the summers can be very hot. On those hot day it would be a good time to enjoy the lake area – or to head back to NY where the weather is beautiful spring, summer and fall.

Hot Springs: America's First Resort

2011-11-20T14:39:00.000-08:00

One of the great joys of travel is learning about new places. John and I had never been to Arkansas. To say that we were impressed with Hot Springs would be an understatement. Although many places claim to be “America’s First Resort,” Hot Spring is the only one that can claim to be the first federally protected area having been so designated in 1832. Hot Springs was, in essence, America’s first national park even though it wasn’t official until 1921. At first the accommodations were rudimentary – mainly a tent over a spring. But as more and more people arrived to enjoy the springs American entrepreneurs continued to improved accommodations ultimately creating luxurious bathhouses.

The Hot Springs National Park Visitor Center is housed in what was the Fordyce Bathhouse. The 1915 Spanish Renaissance Revival building has been restored. Interestingly the men’s bathing side with a beautiful stained glass ceiling is much larger and more elegant that the women’s side. In 1913, Colonel Samuel W. Fordycea planned a "...veritable temple of health and beauty…” because he felt the springs had saved his life."

An informative video in the Visitor Center explains the geology of the area. The hot springs are not volcanic in origin as many thought. It takes about 4000 years for the rain water to percolate down to a depth of 8000 feet. As is descends the water gets increasingly warmer. The result is 47 springs – most of which are 147 degrees and pure enough to drink.

The Fordyce is the starting point for exploring Bathhouse Row. In the 1960s many of the bathhouses closed and fell into disrepair. By 1985 only the Buckstaff Bathhouse remained open. Then in 2004 the National Park Service began to rehabilitate the vacant bathhouses and lease them out under the Historic Property Leasing Program. Today guests can enjoy the thermal waters of the newest spa, the Quapaw Baths & Spa with four large hot-water soaking pools along with private bathing rooms attended by they trained therapists. One of the most unique aspects of the Quapaw is their Natural Steam Cave. The bathhouse was built in the early 1920s over one of the natural thermal springs. A small man-made cave created at that time has been upgraded and is now a unique sauna/stream room where the spring still bubbles forth. Like the Buckstaff, the Quapaw offers a full range of massages and therapies along with a gift shop and café.

Not all the bathhouses are being resurrected as bathhouses. The Ozark Bathhouse opened to the public in 2009 as the Museum of Contemporary Art. The museum advertises that it “displays one of a kind pieces to create a one of a kind experience.” I’d have to agree. The artist, Boban, has created expressive full-size sculptures of athletes, angels, and musicians that shows fluidity of motion by welding together spoons. Equally expressive are the works of Liu Miao Chan whose life-like figures in leather show amazing emotion. He says, "Leather is soft, alive, like skin. It is warm and allows for movement. It gives life to the work."

The newest bathhouse to be revitalized is the former Hale Bathhouse, which now houses The Three Muse’ Arts Café and Bookstore run by a not-for-profit group that plans to eventually feature visual and performing arts. At one time there were eight operating bathhouses. Hopefully, all of them will reopen and once again in one form or another.

The Everson Museum

2011-11-20T14:33:00.000-08:00

The world famous architect I M. Pei is often called a master of modern architecture. He designed The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, the Pyramide de Louve in Paris, and John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum in Boston to name just a few of his creations. His work can be seen in nearly every major city of the world. Locally he worked on the S. I. Newhouse School of Public Communication at Syracuse University, and designed the Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art in Ithaca and the Everson Museum of Art.

It had been several years since I had been to the Everson so I made a special point on a visit to Syracuse to schedule one hour to visit the museum. Actually, the building is an art object the houses art object. It opened in 1968 and was the first museum designed by I. M. Pei, which led to other commissions to design museums in a variety of locations worldwide. Traditionally museums were houses of the wealthy that held their collections of magnificent objects. The Everson helped to change that concept making the building and area around it all part of the art experience. Perhaps to avoid having people charge through the front door of the museum without pausing the front entrance to the museum is not obvious making people pause and look around before locating the front door.

I am not an art aficionado but each time I visit the museum I learn more about art and the artists: and, it is a relaxing place to spend an hour or two. The Everson's permanent collection encompasses approximately 11,000 objects, including paintings, ceramics, sculpture and videos. With all there is to see the museum I will try to visit more often. They ask for a $5 donation but there are no tickets per se.

The ceramics collection of the Everson is widely recognized for its magnitude and magnificence. It is one of the largest holdings of American ceramics in the nation.
Today, the collection of American ceramics numbers over 4,000 pieces that date from 1000 AD to the present, from works by ancient Americans of the Southwest to examples by contemporary artists.

Two of my favorite paintings are part of the Everson Collection. The Peaceable Kingdom by Edward Hicks shows the people and animals living harmoniously but in the background the Europeans have arrived and are trading with the Native Americans. I like to look at Gilbert’s portrait of George Washington and wonder what he would think of the country he helped to forge. Both are very thought provoking.

This time I was much taken by the Unique art display by Arise. The works - poems, paintings, drawings, photographs, sculptures, computer-based art, and mixed-media - are created by individuals living in Central New York with disabilities. “Tea with Me,” a clay teapot by Jacqueline Colone, a 15-year-old with Down syndrome made me feel good and I marveled at the delicate torchon bobbin lace work by Pamela Corcoran who has Multiple Sclerosis. There were many beautiful image of nature. “But Still I Rise – In Spite of the Voices” by Casey A. O’Connor is a thought provoking poem that starts with “The voices are cruel, And try to be my demise, They drag me down, But still, I rise.” I was glad I made time in my day to see this truly inspirational exhibit.

Support Tourism

2011-11-20T14:15:00.001-08:00

World Tourism Day is organized yearly by the United Nations to showcase the importance of global tourism. I agreed with the UN Secretary-General, Ban Ki-moon, when he said, “In a world struggling for peaceful coexistence, tourism can build bridges and contribute to peace.” John and I have found the world to be much safer than what is portrayed in the media. People are generally friendly and want others to like and understand their country. I think one of the most important aspects of travel is learning about other regions, countries and cultures. I like the quote that I think is attributed to Ghandi and often use it. “One third of the world eats with a fork, one-third with chopsticks, and one-third with their fingers and everyone is doing it correctly.”

We traveled behind the “Iron Curtain” in the 1980s, to Vietnam in the late 1990s, and to other destinations not on most people’s radar. We found that when we learned about a country or culture it became familiar not feared. We came to understand that people can not always control their government but that does not make all their citizens evil or dangerous. Myanmar has a very unpopular government but the people are lovely. And, oddly Myanmar’s military government means that, for tourists, the country is extremely safe and there is very little crime. At Myanmar’s Ngapali Beach we were told, “You can leave your stuff on the beach no one will take it.”

Not only is travel a mind-opening experience it is also extremely beneficial financially. The travel and tourism industry is one of the largest and most dynamic industries in today’s global economy. It generated about 9% of total GDP and provided for more than 235 million jobs in 2010 representing 8% of global employment. Beside the obvious benefits of the tourist dollar to hotels, restaurants, modes of transportation, and tour companies there is an amazing trickle-down effect. Think of people who making souvenirs, work in gas stations and stores, and those who provide all the food and supplies needed by restaurants and hotels. There are hundreds of other businesses that are indirectly linked to tourism.

Oswego County may not be a hotbed of tourism, even though I think it could be, tourism is still an important part of the local economy. According to the Oswego County Department of Tourism over 2000 jobs come from tourism. Wages and salaries earned by residents, combined with income earned by business owners due to tourist expenditures, totaled $45,598,000 in 2009 in Oswego County and during the same period tourists generated over $12 million in state and local taxes.

Celebrate World Tourism Day by visiting one of Oswego County’s wonderful attractions, and take someone with you. When was the last time you visited the Salmon River Hatchery, Safe Haven, the Brewerton Block House, the Pratt House Museum in Fulton, or enjoyed a quiet time with nature at Amboy 4-H Environmental Center plus the area around Lake Ontario is a world-class birding area. And if you have been thinking of a trip – locally, nationally, or internationally - but keep putting it off – don’t.

Mark Twain said, "Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
Labels: New York, United States

Touring Glasgow, Scotland

2011-09-25T17:38:00.000-07:00

Glasgow, located on the Clyde River, was an industrial shipbuilding hub that has reinvented itself as a cultural center so there are plenty of museums and great architecture – old and new. Our Holiday Inn Riverview Hotel was a great location and reasonable. The bus stop was close by and so was the Scotia Pub, which was highly recommended by our taxi driver. The pub claims to be the oldest in Glasgow. It dates from 1792, is a good place for a bite to eat. It is quiet during the day but packed in the evening when they have live music.

The hop-on hop-off Sightseeing Glasgow bus tour ticket was good for two days. As is our practice, we took the tour once around and were deciding where to get off but when we got to George Square there was an event going on so we decided to check it out. It was their celebration of veteran’s day and people were waiting to see a parade. We checked out their military vehicles and listened to the music – a wannabe Frank Sinatra singing songs we knew. The parade was made up of marching and band units all decked out in their kilts and colorful uniforms. There were no fire trucks, floats or other participants – just the military units that did not have a military look instead they were dressed in colorful kilts and regalia.

After the parade we went to the People’s Palace where the focus is on the life of the ordinary people. It is located on the edge of the park with the beautiful Victorian Doulton Fountain, the world’s largest terracotta fountain, in front and the Winter Gardens in the back. One of the things I noticed in homes and museums in Ireland, Wales, and Scotland were matching China dogs. At the museum I learned that these ubiquitous dogs were called Wally Dugs. They were traditionally a cherished wedding gift with a special place on the fireplace mantle.

Regardless of the city, during the Industrial Revolution conditions for the poorest workers were miserable with people living in unhealthy and crowded conditions. It was the lucky family that had an entire room where they slept and cooked to call their home. Laws were passed limiting the number of people allowed in a room with 5 adults in a 2000 cubic foot room. However it was hard to enforce and rooms often held more than the allowed number. There were public laundries and bathhouses. It was hard to imagine the tough life of the workers.

Our next hop-off was at a Tenement House Museum. The museum is located in a tenement building that is still occupied and showed a different aspect of tenement living. The three-room apartment was the home of Agnes Toward for 50 years and I could image living there. There was a pretty sitting room, a kitchen and a bedroom. Toward lived there with her mother and they often had a tenant. I wondered where they all slept, that was until the guide opened what looked like a closet door and there was a built-in bed – not for the claustrophobic. There was a similar bed in the wall in the kitchen.

The shipbuilding area and riverside is in a renaissance with the building of the Exhibition and Convention Center and the Science Center across the river. The new Riverside Museum features transportation and shipbuilding.

Looking for Nessie in Scotland

2011-09-25T17:31:00.000-07:00

To get from Northern Wales to Glasgow, John and I took the National Express bus to Birmingham where we changed to another bus after a short wait in a very modern terminal. Most of the nine hour trip was through the countryside and quite pleasant with a stop for lunch. When we arrived in Glasgow I started to put our suitcase in the taxi, which was specially built with a wide space between the driver and passenger seats perfectly designed for luggage but the taxi driver said, “Wait, Missy, I will do that for you. You are in Scotland and I am here to serve you.” Nice touch. During the short ride to the Holiday Inn Riverview, the driver acted as a tour guide pointing out all the must-see sites.

We booked a full day tour with Timberbush Tours to Lock Ness, Glencoe and the Highlands. The departure point on George Square was easily walkable from the Holiday Inn. We were exceptionally lucky because the weather was glorious – sunny skies and no rain. Our driver, Grant, was knowledgeable and amiable.

I finally heard the bagpipes play - the only ones we heard in Scotland. The lone bagpiper was at a scenic area overlooking Glencoe, the site of the 1692 massacre of the MacDonald clan. Looking out over the beautiful valley it was hard to envision the dramatic event that seemed so fresh in Scottish minds, possiblly because it is recounted in a popular song. Of course, there is more than one side to any conflict but the oft played ballad says that when the Campbells “…came through the blizzard, we offered them heat, A roof ‘ower their heads, dry shoes for their feet, We wined them and dined them, they ate o' our meat, And slept in the house O' MacDonald.” But then the guests – the Campbells “…slaughtered the house o' MacDonald.” We left the peaceful looking valley listening to a recording of the Ballad of Glencoe.

Interestingly, I thought that “highlands” meant high mountains but the highest peak, which given the clear skies we were lucky enough to see, is Ben Nevis, the highest peak in Scotland, which to my surprise is only 4400 feet high. The scenery was beautiful with rolling hills, much of which is rocky and dotted with many lakes (lochs). When we stopped for lunch John tried the haggis, the famous, or infamous, national dish. Traditionally it contains sheep heart, liver and lungs with onion, oatmeal, suet, and spices in a sheep stomach. Today they use sausage casings. It was served atop a baked potato and tasted a lot like turkey dressing so I assumed the recipe had been altered a bit to appeal to foreigners.

Loch Ness is very attractive. It is 24 miles long and over 700 feet deep and famous for its sighting of the Loch Ness monster, Nessie. We took a scenic boat ride that went past the ruins of Urquhart Castle and learned more about the history of the Nessie sightings that date back the 7th century. Grant said sightings have a direct correlation to the amount of whiskey consumed. And with that he handed us a miniature bottle of Famous Grouse whiskey as a souvenir. No one saw Nessie but it didn’t matter it was a great trip that ended with a lovely ride back to Glasgow though the mountains and valleys listening to Scottish songs.

Enjoying LLangollen, Wales

2011-09-25T17:15:00.000-07:00

John and I were impressed with the diversity of things to do in Northern Wales – all within a short drive. We visited castles, national parks, a woolen mill, unique villages, and took a canal boat ride in the lovely village of Llangollen. In Llangollen there are several canal trips available including a horse-drawn one, which was the trip we wanted to take. However, fate intervened when we arrived at the wharf. Their two-hour motorized boat trip that crosses the aqueduct – the last of the day – was about to leave so we bought tickets. A short bus ride took us to a picturesque dock where we boarded the narrow canal boat. The trip was beautiful as it passed through the countryside where people were hiking, biking, kayaking and awe inspiring as it crossed the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 126 feet above the Dee River. Only one canal boat can cross the aqueduct at a time as it is extremely narrow. It is an amazing 1007 feet long supported by 18 stone pillars. It was built between 1795 and 1805 and is a World Heritage site. I wished we had time to try their other canal trips; they have one to Horseshoe Falls and the horse-drawn one.

We loved the small, quaint town of Llangollen. We stayed at the Cornerstones B&B in the center of town. It is made up of three connected town houses built in the 1500s but with all the comforts of today. What would the original inhabitants think of electric lights, TV, and Internet? I could have sat for hours looking out our window at the rapids of the River Dee. For dinner we walked to the Corn Mill Restaurant where flour was stone ground for seven hundred years - until 1974 when it was turned into a restaurant. The restaurant, located on the River Dee has huge exposed beams and a working waterwheel that can be viewed behind the bar or through floor windows in the upper dining area. The menu features many locally sourced items such as lamb and trout. Across the river is the railroad station where steam trains still arrive.

Llangollen is where we dropped off our rental car. Actually what we did was left the keys with Carol, the Cornerstone Inn keeper, hoping the rental car people would show up to get it – I guess they did. We are always happy to return a rental car in the same condition as when we picked it up, especially after navigating on the left side of the road. The roads in Wales are all good albeit some of the country roads are a tad bit narrow but the traffic is light. The Welsh are very proud of their heritage; even so, I was surprised to learn that Welsh Gaelic is the primary language in many of the elementary schools even though English is the language everyone speaks. All of Wales seemed very relaxed and comfortable to us. It is a place we would like to return to explore more slowly than we did this time. The countryside pace suits us. Before our visit we had heard many travelers singing the praise of Wales – now we understand why. The last morning in Wales we walked down the street from the Cornerstones B&B to the bus stop where we boarded the modern bus to Glasgow. Everything was so convenient.

Enchanting Trefriw, Portmeirion, and Ruthin, Wales

2011-09-25T16:15:00.000-07:00

Portmeirion is a fantasy village that was designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975 to resemble an Italian village. Today there are shops, a spa, a beach, a pool, excellent dining and delightful accommodations - all of unique design. Surrounding the village are 70 acres of exotic woodlands with easy to follow trails and coastal walks. Pontmeirion is a popular attraction for day visitors but to really savor the ambiance of Portmeirion one needs to spend at least one night. During the day the village is bustling with activity but in the evening a blanket of peace settles over the fairytale land. We loved the special hush that descended over the village when the day-trippers left and it became “our” village. Our room was in the center of the village overlooking the main square. It was magical.

Portmeirion is a destination unto itself but there are several places to visit nearby. I will always remember Wales for its sheep and gardens. It seems that every house is adorned with beautiful flowers. One of the places we visited was Bodnant Gardens considered one of the most beautiful gardens in the UK. I was amazed at how many vehicles were in the parking lots and yet the 80 acres of gardens absorbed the visitors so that wandering the garden paths was very peaceful. The mild Welsh climate makes it possible for the gardens to have plants from all over the world.

Getting lost is part of any trip and sometimes it is the best way to see things. Our unplanned side trip took us along narrow relatively vehicle-free roads and then through Snowdonia National Park with wonderful views of the mountains and valleys. We stopped to visit Trefriw Woolen Mills that has been in operation since 1859 making traditional Welsh bedspreads, tweeds and tapestry. The small village is tucked into a pretty little valley.

From Portmeirion we drove to Llanuwchllyn where we took a train ride on one of the several restored steam trains in Wales. The trip along the lake to the town and back on the narrow gauge train was great. I was impressed with the loving care the volunteers lavished on their train. The conductor had polished the brass to a fare-thee-well.

In Ruthin we stayed in the Ruthin Castle Hotel that started out as a Welsh wooden fort in 1277 and over the years was altered to become the large red fort-like castle of today. According to legend, King Arthur disguised himself for a romantic liaison with his mistress at Ruthin. Unfortunately he was recognized and by an old adversary. Arthur had him executed on a stone block now displayed in the Town Square. The romantic legends are many including one about the “grey lady” who was executed for axing to death her husband’s girlfriend and now roams the battlements.

Walking through the gardens where the peacocks put on their proud display we tried to conger up images of what it may have been like in years gone by. We had a wonderful dinner in the hotel’s restaurant called Bertie’s, named for King Edward VII who was a lover of fine wines, whisky, brandy, champagne and gourmet cuisine. He was a frequent guest at Ruthin Castle. After dinner we went into the village to listen to a rehearsal of the famed, award-wining Ruthin Choir. The perfect ending of a perfect day.

Exploring the beautiful Isle of Anglesey, Wales

2011-09-25T16:06:00.000-07:00

John and I are often impressed with the ease of getting around outside the United States be it within a country or between countries. From Dublin we to took the fast, modern ferry to Holyhead, Wales. The two-hour trip was lovely and relaxing. We stayed at Trearddur Bay Hotel located on the beautiful bay with the same name. It was a brilliant day making it perfect for wandering along the coast and the blue flag beach next to the hotel. When we asked where Prince William and Kate lived they pointed inland and said, “Over there.” Since I was sure we would not be invited to tea I left it at that. It would have been easy to stay at Trearddur Bay Hotel for days but our rental car was waiting at the hotel so in the morning we set out to explore Northern Wales. Northern Wales is a vista of rolling hills dotted with sheep – lots of sheep.

Beaumaris Castle, begun in 1295, was the last and largest of the castles to be built in Wales by King Edward I. King Edward is not the most popular person as his takeover of Wales was the end of their independence. Even though the castle was never finished it is considered to be one of the most technologically perfect castles with an inner ring of defenses surrounded by an outer ring making it nearly impregnable but it was never put to the test. Today swans and ducks serenely glide along the waters of the moat. However, entering the huge wooden gate we hardly noticed the "murder holes" above the door. If attackers ever made it through the rain of heavy crossfire of arrows they would be welcomed at the gate by being doused with boiling oil from the “murder holes.” War never has a pretty face.

We made a quick stop at Llanfair PG, which is the shortened way to refer to the town that has the longest place name in Europe and continued on to Penrhyn Castle. The neo-Norman castle was built in the early 1800s covering earlier structures save for the spiral staircase. The owners made their money, in part, from mining slate from the nearby mountain. One of the interesting items is a one-ton slate bed made for Queen Victoria. The view and grounds are lovely. It reminded me a bit of Singer and Boldt Castles in the 1000 Island area where the American wealthy wanted to have their very own castles.

Not too far away was the walled city of Conwy. I am always impressed by medieval cities that have retained much of their original structures. Conwy Castle was also built by Edward I. He brought in English settlers and instituted English laws showing no respect for Welsh culture. In fact, the local Welsh people were forbidden to enter the castle walls except at the bidding of the English inhabitants to deliver goods or to work. Our hotel, Castle Hotel, was on a cobbled street within the walls. Just a few steps from our hotel was Plas Mawr, an Elizabethan Town House built between 1576 and 1585. It is one of the best-preserved town houses of the era in Great Britain. I was surprised at the bold red and white décor of the main rooms. The wealthy always live well regardless of the time period.

Exploring Roscommon County, Ireland and nearby area

2011-09-25T14:58:00.000-07:00

John and I were driving along Route N6 across Ireland when we noticed a place named Kilbeggan. We knew that it was the name of an Irish whiskey so we made a short detour. It was more than we expected because they not only make Kilbeggan Whiskey but it is also home to Locke’s Distillery Museum. Kilbeggan is one of the spirits in the Cooley Distillery family of whiskies and the only 100% Irish owned distillery and it is family owned. Licensed in 1757, Kilbeggan is the oldest continuously licensed whiskey distillery in the world and the Locke's Distillery is the last remaining example of a small pot still whiskey distillery in Ireland.

The Museum shows the traditional process of whiskey making from the grinding of the grain to the casking of the final product. Most of the original machinery has been restored and is working daily including a 19th century water wheel. They even have their own cooper on site. We saw a cask especially labeled for President Obama in honor of his recent visit. After a lunch at their Pantry Restaurant we continued to Roscommon where we stayed at the Abbey Hotel.

We love the view from the Abbey Hotel. Behind the hotel are the 13th century ruins of the Roscommon Abbey, which is free of charge to everyone. It was sacked and destroyed several times until it was finally abandoned around 1500 – about the time Columbus was exploring the Americas. I guess people who live with castles and ruins in their midst don’t find it unique but we do. Near the hotel we explored the ruins of Roscommon Castle, again people are free to wander about, explore and try to imagine what it was like in its heyday. Built in 1269, it exchanged hands many times over the years during which it was remodeled. After a fire in 1690 it fell into disrepair.

Just north of Roscommon, on our way back to Dublin, we stopped at the Famine Museum in Strokesville and learned that about 80 million people worldwide claim Irish ancestry including 44 million American. Where would they be without the potato famine? The Great Irish famine of the 1840′s is regarded as the single greatest social disaster of 19th century Europe. Between 1845 and 1850, when blight devastated the potato crop, in excess of two million people – almost one-quarter of the entire population of Ireland – either died or emigrated. Without the famine the population of Ireland would be significantly higher; plus, Ireland’s famine caused a shift in land ownership and sparked the call for Irish independence.

The potato was introduced into Ireland from the Americas in the 1500s and by the 1800s it was the main source of food with the average man eating 45 potatoes a day. The potato was suited to Ireland’s wet, cool climate and with a little milk added it provided carbohydrates, protein, and minerals. The Famine Museum in Strokestown follows the history of the famine in Ireland, responses to the famine and ends with places that are suffering famine in the world today. Amazing the number of places today that are plagued by famine. According to the United Nations over 11 million people in the Horn of Africa are in a crisis situation.

Ireland is one of the friendliest countries we have visited. For more information check www.discoverireland.com.

Loving the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin

2011-08-11T16:11:00.000-07:00

Ireland always surprises us. We picked up our rental car in Dublin and headed for Powerscourt in the beautiful Wicklow Mountains. The beltways around Dublin are great but the tolls must be paid on line. The best thing is to mention it to the hotel and they will help guests take care of the toll. Once we got off the parkway we were soon lost… an easy thing to happen in Ireland. The roads are scenic but that means narrow with no shoulders. We finally found a little place to pull off and were trying to reorient ourselves when there was a little knock on the window. “A bit off your way, are ye?” said the tiny elderly man, with a wide smile and a twinkle in his eye… a leprechaun, for sure. He proceeded to give us direction and then a 15-minute summary of Irish history from Anglo-Norman times to Mel Gibson. It was charming!

We found our way to Powerscourt Estate, which has been in the Slazenger Family, of the tennis-racket fame, for 50 years. The estate has an amazing series of terraces that lead from the house to the lake with views of Sugar Loaf Mountain. The fantastic gardens are a popular day tour from Dublin. It defies the image of Ireland as one of small, picturesque cottages surrounded by a field of grazing sheep. Powerscourt is how the wealthy lived.

I think every trip should include a couple days of complete relaxation and luxury. In Ireland we found it at the Ritz Carleton Powerscourt. Located adjacent to the Powerscourt estate it is built in the Palladian-style with all the ambiance one would expect from a Ritz Carleton property. Even though every guest is treated as if they were special we noticed that our red Ford Focus rental car was quickly dispatched to the parking lot while the exquisite Bentley spent the day under the porte-cochere where everyone could see it.

Our accommodation was outstanding with a large patio where we could gaze out over the expansive lawn to Sugar Loaf Mountain. The first night we dined in McGills Pub where I enjoyed Fish & Chips and John had Corned Beef & Cabbage. The next day we planned a “Special Day.” We reserved one of the hotel’s golf carts and took it down to Powerscourt Estate and to the River Walk. The River Walk is a “secret place” within the wall of Powerscourt Estate. The cedars along the bubbling stream are some the largest we have ever seen. It was a magical trip. Later John retired to our patio to read and I went to ESPA for some pampering.

After a wonderful massage I went to the Jacuzzi-style hot pool with a view of Sugar Loaf Mountain then to their main pool that is lit with Swarovski crystal. It made the water shimmered as if there were diamonds on the bottom. There is a spa café and I noticed some of the people were spending the entire day in the spa. What a life!

In the evening John and I had an incredible dinner at the Gordon Ramsey Restaurant. Besides the beautiful view of the mountains I liked the fact that the menu included mainly locally raised products. It was a wonderful ending to our “Special Day.” There was only one problem. In the morning we had to leave!

Exploring Dublin, Ireland's Capital City

2011-08-11T15:46:00.000-07:00

John and I always enjoy visiting Dublin because it is a comfortable city, the people are very friendly, and there are always new things to do. This time we stayed at the Croke Hotel. The Dublin Tour Bus stops outside the hotel’s front door. We like to take the hop-on-hop-off city tours once around and then decide what we want to see. We visited the General Post Office, which served as the headquarters of the leaders of the 1916 Easter Uprising who were trying to free Ireland from 750 years of British rule. The museum is small but has an interesting video depicting the event. Our next stop was Kilmainham Gaol where they offer on-the-hour tours. It is a microcosm of Irish history. When the prison opened in 1796 it was a model prison with the intention that there would be only one inmate to a cell. However, it became overcrowded and a place where Ireland’s most noted political prisoners were held and some were executed including leaders of the Easter Uprising. The leaders of the Easter Uprising did not initially have the support of the people but when they were incarcerated then executed in Kilmainham public opinion changed, they became heroes and support for the cause of independence grew. The guide tells chilling stories about life in the gaol. During the potato famine people would try to get imprisoned because it was better than life on the outside. The last prisoner was Eamon de Velera who later became the president of Ireland.

The Irish have always had a way with words including nicknaming some of their iconic statues. The statue of Molly Malone is a favorite photo spot. The locals refer to her as the “Tart with the Cart” and “The Dish with the Fish.” On O’Connell Street the new 390-foot tall stainless steel Millennium Spire is referred to as the “Stiletto in the Ghetto.” Narrators on the bus tours sprinkle their talk with similar witticisms. Certainly no visit to Dublin is complete without visiting Trinity College to see the Book of Kells, Christ Church and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and Guinness Storehouse with a wonderful panoramic view of the city from their Gravity Bay where visitors can enjoy a free glass of Guinness.

Our favorite evening was at Johnnie Fox’s pub in the hills outside of Dublin. It is one of the oldest and most famous traditional Irish pubs. Founded in 1798 they offer traditional Irish music nightly but the best is their Hooley Nights. We took their Express Bus, which picked us up at the Gresham Hotel. The 30-minute drive through the countryside was beautiful. A “hooley” is Irish for a party with traditional music and dancing. The small stage has a home-style fireplace hung with the laundry and the mantel adorned with twin ceramic dogs called “Wally Dogs” - the ultimate wedding gift in times gone by. The Hooley Night included a three-course dinner with many Irish favorites but it is the music and dancing that is the main draw. On the night we attended the Chinese embassy was hosting about 50 of their closest friends so it was a full house. At the end of the second intermission the embassy group left and the singers continued with songs that “we saved to the end because we didn’t think our foreign guests would understand” including a hilarious version of “Galway Bay.” A night of great music and dancing.

Visiting the Hercules Chocolate store in East Syracuse

2011-08-11T15:23:00.000-07:00

In May John and I were in East Syracuse. It was another day in line of dreary, rainy days. Our business completed, we were trying to think of something to do that would brighten the day. I remembered that Hercules Candy Company was located in East Syracuse. They are frequently featured on TV making chocolate bunnies for Easter and ribbon candy for Christmas. It seemed like the perfect solution – brighten our day with chocolate.

Our TomTom showed that the “factory” was nearby. Actually, it not a factory but a typical neighborhood house on a quiet tree-lined street. The store is on the first floor displaying wonderful chocolate delights while the candy maker, Steve Andrianos, was working in the cellar. Hercules Candy Company has been in the family since 1901 – in the same spot.

In fact, we found the story of the Hercules Candy Company to be a ray of sunshine in the world of mass production and foreign imports. Steve Andrianos shared his family history with us. He is the third generation to run the business. As a teenager, his grandfather, Robert Andrianos, arrived in the late 1890s on Ellis Island from Greece. He found his way to Boston where he learned the art of candy making. Later he moved to East Syracuse where, with his two brothers, he opened a candy store. Eventually he brought out his brothers and during the depression moved the candy making to his home on 209 West Heman Street renaming it the Hercules Candy Company in honor of his father-in-law. It became a true family business with each of the seven children developing their own specialty. Steven’s father was good a making candy canes, hard candies, brittle and cream centers.

“I started making chocolate when I was 12. I was good at it so when I came home from school my father would leave me with the kettle and I would dip chocolate,” Steve explained. It was fascinating watching him while we chatted. I marveled at the fact that he kept dipping chocolate while we talked and there were no drip, no drizzles, just row upon row of beautiful chocolate covered orange creams. It is his ribbon candy that he takes the most pride in as it was a difficult technique to master. Steve is helped by his wife plus his children when they are home. They make everything themselves except the jellybeans. The best selling item is their chocolate-covered potato chips. There is something wonderful about chocolate with a hint of salt.

Steve went on to say, “We make candy the way it was made in the early 1900's - all by hand without any machines. We roast our own nuts on the premises and purchase our ingredients directly from the source from which they originate - not through a middle man, so that the freshness and quality of our candy speaks for itself.”

The Andrianos’ use the same equipment that his father and grandfather used including the big copper kettles and even the table fan on a nearby table was the one his father used. The early days of chocolate making are remembered in pictures on the wall. The business has expanded and is now year round and includes mail orders while still serving their loyal local customers. Steve and Terry’s three children are in college and hopefully the family tradition will continue.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites

2011-08-11T15:13:00.000-07:00

World Heritage Sites have been deemed to be of such important cultural and natural value that they need to be preserved and protected for future generations to enjoy. John and I have visited these and many others, the rest are all on my “Bucket List!” For more location on the World Heritage list check whc.unesco.org or www.worldheritagesite.org.

1. The Statue of Liberty: A must visit for all Americans. It has become a symbol of freedom to people all over the world. A gift from France, the Roman Goddess of Freedom sits on Liberty Island in New York Harbor and has welcomed thousands of immigrants to our shore.

2. Iguazu National Park, Argentina and Brazil: The spectacular Iguazu waterfalls are located in a tropical rainforest forming the border between Argentina and Brazil. The falls are 265 high and nearly 9000 feet long and made up of many cascades.

3. Brugge, Belgium: The quaint city of Brugge is an excellent example of a place that has preserved its historic center with many Gothic buildings clustered around the town square. One of the many fascinating things to see is the Michelangelo’s “Madonna and Child” in the Church of Our Lady.

4. Angkor Wat, Cambodia: Angkor is one of the most important archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. The massive site has the remains of the various capitals of the Khmer Empire that spanned from the 9th to the 15th century. Most impressive is Ta Prohm Temple with huge roots laced around the buildings.

5. The Rideau Canal, Canada: The 125-mile canal system was constructed during the 1800s. The system connects Ottawa, Canada’s capital to Kingston on Lake Ontario. The 1800s was the canal building era in North America and the Rideau is the only canal from the era that is still fully operational with most of its structures still in use.

6. Easter Island, Chile: The island, also known as Rapa Nui, was most likely settled by Polynesians around AD 300. They established a culture that was free from outside contact for several centuries during which they carved enormous stone figures called moai. How they were able to do this and why is still the topic of much controversy.

7. Prague, Czech Republic: Prague is home to many historical structures that span from the 11th to the 18th century including Hradcani Castle high on the hill above the Vltava, the Charles Bridge and the amazing Astronomical Clock. Many of the buildings were erected in the 14th century during the time of Charles IV, the Holy Roman Emperor.
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8. Machu Picchu, Peru: The Inca city high in the Andes has jaw-dropping views of the valleys below. Referred to as the “Lost City of the Incas” there is still a debate as to the exact purpose of the difficult to reach site. It is one of the few places not discovered and looted by the Spanish Explorers.

9. Bath, England: Founded by the Romans as a thermal spa, Bath became an important center during in the Middle Ages. Bath is the oldest of England’s principal tourist destinations and has been welcoming visitors for centuries

10. Hoi An, Vietnam: Hoi An was a trading town from the 10th to the 19th century. Because the old city escaped the ravages of the wars it is well preserved and shows the influence of local and foreign cultures.

Places to visit in New York State

2011-07-08T17:04:00.000-07:00

Explore a new part of New York State. With mountains, plateaus and lowlands there is something to tickle everyone’s fancy. For more information check www.iloveny.com.
1. Long Island: East of New York City the island has the Atlantic on the south and Long Island Sound on the north separating it from the New England States. The island ends in twin tines. The Southern one is home to the Hamptons, long the city getaway for the rich. On the North Fork the potato farms have become the state’s newest wine region.
2. Hudson Valley: The Hudson River connects New York City and Albany, the capital. Along the river there are impressive mansions that belonged to the Rockefellers, Roosevelts, and Vanderbilts. At a narrow part of the river, high on a bluff is West Point which once guarded the river but is best known as a military academy.
3. Albany: All visits should begin at the Albany Heritage Area Visitors Center in historic Quackenbush Square where exhibits detail Albany's rich history. The New York State Museum has artifacts related to the early Dutch settlement and the expansion of the city along with the natural history of the state. Visit historic homes from the 1700s and tour the Capitol building.
4. Lake Placid: Lake Placid is the perfect destination in any season but it is winter that put it on the map. Lake Placid, in the High Peaks area of the Adirondack, is considered the birthplace of winter sports in America. The Lake Placid Winter Olympic Museum explores the legacy of the Lake Placid Winter Games.
5. Adirondacks: Covering nearly one-third of the state the Forever Wild Adirondack Mountain are a wilderness area perfect for hikers, skiers, river rafters, adventure seekers but also for those looking for a luxurious getaway. Truly an all-season destination.
6. 1000 Islands: Actually there more than a thousand islands in the St. Lawrence River between the USA and Canada. The most famous is Heart Island,home to the unfinished romantic Boldt Castle. Singer Castle, of sewing machine fame, was completed and is now open to the public.
7. Erie Canal: When it was built in the 1800s it was considered one of the marvels of the world and opened up the continent to settlers. Following the lowlands from Albany to Buffalo, the canal is no longer bustling with people but today is an amazing scenic trip best traveled by houseboat.
8. Seaway Trail: The 518-miles of the Great Lakes Seaway Trail has something for everyone. Along the shoreline of the St. Lawrence River, Lake Ontario, and Lake Eire there are forts, waterfalls, quaint villages, islands, along with excellent birding and fishing.
9. Finger Lakes: The rolling hills of the Finger Lake Region is home to the state’s famed wine region but there are many other attractions: Corning Museum of Glass, Women’s Hall of Fame, Susan B. Anthony House, boat rides, nature preserves, and much more.
10. Chautauqua: The famed Chautauqua Institute began in the southwest corner of the state in 1874 as an adult education movement founded on the belief that everyone “has a right to be all that he can be - to know all that he can know.” The concept spread but then died out except for Chautauqua Institute, which has continued to flourish with an extensive list of summer programs in a picturesque Victorian setting.

For lovers of Lighthouses

2011-07-07T15:08:00.000-07:00

Aficionados of lighthouses will find them just about everywhere. Not only are they along the coast but also along lakes, rivers, and canals. There are about 1000 lighthouses of various designs in the United States with Michigan having the most with over 150. Some are now automated, others are museums, and some even offer accommodations to the public. The oldest working American lighthouse is the one on Sandy Hook, New Jersey. When it was lit in 1764 it was only 500 feet from the tip of Sandy Hook. Due to changes in the shoreline it is now nearly 1.5 miles from the tip.

1. New York: Tibbets in Cape Vincent is located where the St. Lawrence meets Lake Ontario. The Lighthouse features the only original working Fresnel lens in Lake Ontario. In 1991 the Lighthouse Quarters became part of Hostelling International.
2. Maine: The Nubble Lighthouse in York is a complex of several buildings. Next to the 88-foot tower is the two-story, six-room lighthouse keeper’s house, a workshop, generator building, and the boat house. One unique aspect on the island is the Trolley – a basket on a cable – that allowed goods to be transported to the island.
3. Connecticut: Mystic Seaport Lighthouse is located on the grounds of the Museum of America and the Sea. It is a replica of the Brant Point Lighthouse on Nantucket. The original was built in 1746 and was the second operative lighthouse in New England.
4. New Jersey: Barnegat Lighthouse is known affectionately as ‘Old Barney.’ The name derived from the Dutch word, ‘Barendegat,’ which means ‘inlet of breakers.” It was operational for nearly 100 years. Today visitors can see the original Fresnel lens.
5. South Carolina: The Hunting Island Lighthouse is South Carolina’s only publicly accessible historic lighthouse in the state. At 132 feet high it rewards those willing to climb its 167 steps with breathtaking views of the Hunting Island State Park, the sweeping Lowcountry marshland and the Atlantic Ocean.
6. Florida: Visitors who are more than 44-inches in height may climb the Crooked River Lighthouse. The iron and steel structure guided fishermen and oystermen through the treacherous pass between Dog and St. George Islands, and along Florida's Panhandle for nearly 100 years. The keeper’s house is now a museum.
7. Michigan: Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse was established in 1892, and is located at the southeast end the Mackinac Bridge. It was originally constructed in 1890 to signal fog, with the light being added in 1892. It was deactivated in 1957, and currently serves as a maritime museum.
8. Wisconsin: The Cana Lighthouse was built in 1869 and lit in 1870 and is now a museum. Step inside the Keepers' House where, beginning in 1869, the first of a number of lighthouse keepers tended to the light, which guided sailors and protected them from the dangerous shoals extending out from the island into Lake Michigan.
9. California: The Port Hueneme Lighthouse in Oxnard was established in 1874 to guide shipping through the Santa Barbara Channel which runs between the California coast and the Channel Islands. The two-story Victorian building has a twin at Point Fermin with both being lit on the same day in 1874.
10. And more: There are many lighthouse associations. Some protect one specific lighthouse, others list all those in an individual state, and others are organized by area. The United States Lighthouse Society’s web site, www.uslhs.org, list many of the associations.

Kicking back on Roatan, Honduras

2011-07-07T15:02:00.000-07:00

Located on the world’s second largest coral reef, Roatan is off shore of the Honduran mainland. Normally, John and I fly to Roatan but this time we decided to take the ferry from La Ceiba to Roatan. The boat and service were excellent. We were picked up at the port by the staff of the Mayan Princess Resort of West Bay. Our first visit to Roatan was in the mid-90s. Back then there wasn’t even a road to that part of the island. Roatan was a quiet, laid-back island best known by the dive crowd. The airport had a small runway and tiny terminal with a picket fence. There were a couple upscale resorts namely Anthony’s Key best know for its dolphins. Then they build a new airport and charter planes began to arrive from Europe and Canada, that in turn led to more resorts but what really changed the island was when the cruise ships arrived. Today Carnival Cruise line has its own dock and there is another dock used by the other cruise lines. With the cruise crowd came more things to do – zip lines, day beach resorts, and other activities. Some of the cruise crowd got what John and I call “Tropical Fever” and they returned to buy a house or a condo. Now the beaches are lined with excellent accommodations plus there are some very exclusive private residential communities.

This was the first time we stayed at the Mayan Princess Resort. Our room, actually more like a spacious suite, was beautiful with a living room, kitchen, dining area plus a balcony. The first two days at the resort the cruise crowd showed up for a couple of hours. Even so there was plenty of room on the beach and in the lovely free-form pool. While some of the day visitors enjoyed the beach others went kayaking, parasailing, snorkeling and all the other fun in the sun things to do. Then mid afternoon they were gone and we basically had the place to ourselves. The contrast was interesting and we liked talking to the cruise people. Without exception they were having a wonderful time.

One of my most favorite days was at Maya Key. It was built especially as a day spot for the cruise crowd but we went in the afternoon after day-trippers had gone back to the ship. The island is just off shore and beautiful. They have an animal rehabilitation center, a great Mayan center with a replica of the Hieroglyphic Staircase and Jaguar Stele from Copan, Honduras’ premiere Mayan site. I went snorkeling, something I love to do. I like to float, watch the reef for the fish to come out of hiding. I saw many beautiful fish plus a conch, urchin and lobster.

We lived the good life – swimming and just hanging out. I relaxed even more with a Noni Treatment at the Mayan Princess Kukut Spa. The juice from the noni fruit is purported to have excellent curative powers. My treatment made use of the leaves.

The food at the Mayan Princess was wonderful featuring plenty of fresh fish and fruit. One evening there was a Garifuna dance show. The Garifuna are an Afro-Carib people who have lived on the island and coastal mainland since the 1700s. Another night there was fire dance show on the beach. All too soon it was time to leave and return to reality.

Trujillo, Honduras

2011-07-07T14:56:00.000-07:00

John and I have been visiting Honduras off and on for nearly 20 years. While things change slowly they are changing and every visit has its interesting aspects. This year we flew into San Pedro Sula and caught the small plane to La Ceiba. Flying in Honduras is pre-911 flying… no secure door between passenger and pilots – sometimes the door is left open. The pilot steps into the passenger section and says, “Please fasten your seatbelts.” But if you don’t, not to worry, no one checks. The planes fly low so the flight becomes a flight-seeing tour.

Tourist Options, the travel agency where we arranged for a rental car, picked us up at the airport. The next day we headed to Trujillo, four hours to the east and the last town before the jungle. East and south of Trujillo is La Mosquita, the “real” jungle. Years ago we took a four-day trip into La Mosquita. I had read the Paul Theroux book, “Mosquito Coast,” and we had watched the Harrison Ford video of the same name. It took two plane trips and three boat trips to reach the last village on the river. Truly an incredible experience staying with people who had limited contact with the rest of the world.

I am always amazed at the “can-do/make-do” attitude of the people of Honduras. There are two seasons in the tropics – dry and wet. During the wet season it is not unusual for roads and bridges to wash out. They always seem to manage to come up with a solution until repairs are made. This time we reached a place where the bridge had washed out and a new, higher bridge was being built. How to cross the river? No problem! A raft capable of holding two vehicles pushed by a motor boat ferried us across. With only a small delay we were on our way.

Trujillo is on a beautiful bay and when we first visited it was on the brink of becoming the new tourist’s destination on the Honduran mainland – then Hurricane Mitch came. None of the help reached Trujillo and it languished and declined in the tropical sun.

The city has an interesting history. In 1502, on his fourth and last voyage to the “new” world, Columbus landed in Trujillo. It is where the first Catholic mass was said on the mainland of the Americas. Later the Spanish built Fort Santa Barbara, which is still standing. Hernando Cortez visited, as did the pirates of the Caribbean. It is where William Walker was executed and is buried. The American lawyer, journalist, and adventurer organized several private military expeditions into Latin America planning to create English-speaking colonies where he would be the president. He was successful in becoming the president of Nicaragua for a year before he was captured by the British and turned over to the Honduran government who tried and executed him. Trujillo is where O Henry wrote “Cabbages and Kings” while hiding out to evade an embezzlement charge in the states.

Today things are looking up with new hotels and even upscale residential communities plus a proposed cruise dock in the works. We stayed in Casa 17 in one of the new developments. The house is lovely with a great view of the Caribbean. It will be interesting to see what changes have taken place on our next trip.

Making raw fish salad - Malaysian style

2011-07-07T14:33:00.001-07:00

Sarawak is one of two Malaysian states on the island of Borneo. For me the image of Borneo was one of the wildest jungles with unique wildlife and people still living in a very primitive manner. When John and I visited in January, I found Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, to be a lovely, modern city. Kuching means “cat” and it seems that the city was so named because the first non-Malays who visited the area saw a cat – most likely a civet – under a tree. Today the city is home to the world’s first Cat Museum. For nearly 100 years the area was governed by the Brooke family, called the White Rajahs of Sarawak. The area prospered under the White Rajahs. Outside the city it is possible to observe orangutans in the wild but most of them are rescued ones that stay close to the reserve even though they are not caged.

Most of Sarawak’s inhabitants belong to one of 27 ethnic groups. Less than an hour from Kuching is the Sarawak Cultural Village. It is a living history destination with houses of some of the ethnic groups. One of the houses we visited was a Melanau tall house that is entered by a log notched with steps that is easy to pull up preventing unwanted people from entering. However, it didn’t keep the macaques away as they were cavorting in the rainforest next to the house and on the tall poles supporting the house. The large house is home to several related families. Inside one lady was deep-frying thin slices of manioc root making Melanau-style “potato” chips.

The Melanau were one of the earliest settlers of Sarawak calling themselves "a-likou" meaning "people of the river.” They lived mainly along the rivers in the central coastal area of Sarawak where they built stilted houses thirty to forty feet above the ground and unlike other Borneo people they ate sago instead of rice. At the Village’s folkloric show the Melanau dance included one of the men being twirled atop a long bamboo pool. The performance evolved as a diversion while using the long poles to build their houses.

Just a short walk from the cultural village is Damai Beach Resort where we stayed. The resort offers free weekly cooking demonstrations that reflect the culinary diversity of the Sarawak people. At the beginning of the cooking demonstration Chef Sumardi greeted us in local fashion with his hand over his heart indicating that his greeting was heartfelt. One of the several recipes demonstrated was Melanau-style Raw Fish Salad.

Umai Ikan (raw fish salad)
1/ 2 lb fish, preferably red snapper fillet (cut into small pieces)
1/ 2 cup lime juice or calamansi juice
4 bird’s eye chilies (tiny green chilies)
1 turmeric leaf
2 shallots
2 cloves garlic
1/ 2 inch ginger
1 stalk of lemon grass
Salt to taste
Roasted sago pellets for garnish (optional)

Marinate fish in lime juice for at least 10 minutes. Put aside. Finely dice three bird’s eye chilies and slice the remaining one into a flower to be used as garnish. Thinly slice the turmeric leaf, shallots, garlic, ginger and lemon grass. Remove fish from the marinade. Place fish in a bowl and toss in the rest of the ingredients. Stir well. Garnish with chili flower and roasted sago pellets.

Sailing the Andes

2011-05-31T19:40:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite trips getting from one place to another was Cruce de Lagos in South America. We were in Puerto Montt in the south of Chile and wanted to travel to Bariloche, Argentina. The quickest way would have been by air but then we would have missed the beautiful scenery crossing the Andes. From Puerto Montt we took a cab to Puerto Varas where we spent the night. Both Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas have a strong German ambiance. It was a picture-perfect setting with beautiful Lake Llanquihue and the classic-shaped Orsono Volcano in the background.

The next morning it was off to Cruce de Lagos, “Cruise the Lakes,” where buses connect to boats to get across the Andes. The trip follows the same route used 400 years ago by the indigenous people of Southern Chile, and later by the Jesuits. A bus took us along Lake Llanquihue and Lake Petrohue with incredible views Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes. We stopped at Vicente Perez Rosales Park, where a short hike on a nature trail led to the Petrohue Rapids, which tumbled and coursed over the rocks. At the Petrohue wharf we boarded a catamaran. Again the views were inspiring as we sailed along Lake Todos Los Santos for two hours never tiring of looking at the volcanoes.

When we arrived in Peulla it was lunchtime. Wisely, we chose to do the trip in two days. After lunch some of our fellow travelers opted for the zip line and others went rafting. When the group left a wonderful silence descended on this quiet little niche in the forest. There were very few guests in the old hotel with floors that creaked and groaned with every step. We passed on the opportunity to try out a zip line instead we took a short hike to Novia Waterfalls. After a quiet dinner we returned to our room for a quiet evening of reading. Some people we met during the trip said, “Why did you stay there? There’s nothing to do there.” That’s the whole point. With such beauty there is no need to do anything but enjoy the peace and beauty.

In the morning we awoke to the sounds of birds outside our window and the fresh mountain air stirring the curtains. Too soon it was time to get on the bus for the short ride to the Chilean border where we completed border procedures. Back on the bus we bounced along a dirt road to the Argentine border and completed their custom requirements. We met only one vehicle during the two-hour ride, “A traffic jam!” quipped the guide. We boarded another boat to cross Lago Frias. Then a short bus ride took us to Puerto Blest. It was time for a lunch break. After lunch a boat took us across the lake to a series of steps that led to a waterfall. The operative word is “steps.”

As we motored along Lake Nahuel Huapi to Puerto Panuelo I knew the adventure was coming to an end. We began to see houses and other watercraft. At our last port of call, we were bused to our hotel in Bariloche, arriving about 4 PM.

Puerto Montt, Puero Varas, and Bariloche are excellent destinations but it is not the destination so much as the journey – a journey that included five buses and four boats and beautiful scenery.

Spring Time in Keukenhof

2011-05-31T19:34:00.000-07:00

Spring means crocuses, daffodils and then tulips. The Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse south of Amsterdam is noted for its tulips as well as other flowers. Tulips have long been associated with Holland. Tulips were introduced in the 1500s from the Ottoman Empire. They became wildly popular and prices rose creating what is called “Tulip Mania.” It seems that the desire for the recently introduced tulips reached such a frenzy that bulbs were sold for more than ten times the annual income of a skilled craftsman. It has been reported that one bulb sold for "as much as a house on Amsterdam's smartest canal, including coach and garden." The higher the price the more they were coveted becoming a status symbol. Special tulip vases were designed to display them. As the price rose people began investing in tulips. During the winter buyers bid on the bulbs that would be delivered in the spring with people borrowing money to invest. The market for tulips collapsed in 1637 when the government put an end to Tulip Mania by fixing the price. It was the first recorded speculative “economic bubble.” Today tulips are still very popular and everyone can afford them however the term “Tulip Mania” is still used to refer to an economic bubble when prices of an item exceeds its real value.

One of the most famous tulip places is Keukenhof, which was once the 15th century hunting area on the estate of Jacoba van Beieren. Herbs for the castle kitchen were also collect from the area. After the death of van Beieren the estate fell into the hands of Baron and Baroness Van Pallandt who invited landscape architects to design English landscape type gardens around their castle. It became the basis of Keukenhof.

Today Keukenhof is home to the largest bulb flower park in the world. It covers 79 acres with 4.5 million tulips in 100 varieties and nearly 10 miles of pathways. It has 2,500 trees, the largest sculpture park in the Netherlands, a plethora of other flowers and claims to be most photographed place in the world.

Keukenhof is open from late March to late May. We were there in early April 2010 and as luck would have it we were told, “Everything is late this year” so while all the tulips should have been in full bloom they were not but there were some tulips and plenty of other flowers. Each year they have an international theme. In 2010 it was “From Russia with Love.” This year it is “Germany: Land of Poets and Philosophers.”

Keukenhof has a variety of programs so there is always something to see and do. Especially popular is the indoor flower show with permanent as well as changing exhibits. The park has several inspirational gardens designed to inspire visitors to go home and create their own wonderful garden. On-site merchants sell bulbs, which are mailed to the buyer in the fall. Each year one of the highlights is the Flower Parade from Noordwijk to Haarlem that passes Keukenhof in the afternoon with 20 flower-covered floats.

John and I visited from our rented houseboat, which we tied up free at the town’s mooring site but there are many tour buses from Amsterdam and other cities. Frequent public transit buses from Schiphol Airport and other locations connect to Keukenhof. Check their web site, www.keukenhof.nl/en, for directions and more information.

The Shinshoji Temple in Narita

2011-05-31T19:25:00.000-07:00

I wish it was as easy to get from every airport to our hotel as it was from Tokyo’s Narita. The airport is neat, quiet and efficient. After exiting the luggage carrel area we went to the Information Desk and asked for directions. She looked at the schedule and told us to go to Stop 13 just outside the door and the Limousine Bus would be along in a few minutes. We prepaid $30 by credit card. A taxi into Tokyo can be between $200 and $300 depending on the traffic. We went to the assigned spot where a digital readout listed the next bus, its destination, and how long before it would arrive. Meanwhile an attendant, wearing white gloves, tagged our luggage. The bus pulled up on time, the attendant loaded our luggage, and we boarded the new, clean bus. No tipping. Tipping is not common in Japan; it can be considered an insult! An announcement said, “Please do not use your cell phone. It will annoy your neighbor.” We arrived at our hotel relaxed.

We decided to spend our last two days in Japan in Narita. The Limousine Bus picked us up in front of our hotel in Tokyo and took us to the airport where we walked up one level and were picked up by the free Mercure Narita Hotel shuttle bus; 20 minutes later we were at the hotel in the city center. The hotel has a beautiful covered pool on the top floor, several restaurants and Happy Hour in the Half Time Bar includes free popcorn. The popcorn was our first real taste of home in three months. I said to the waiter, “The popcorn is excellent. Now I am hungry for a hamburger but I don’t see it on the menu.” “No problem we can make you one.” Often times hamburger meat outside the US is “different.” The hamburger was excellent and a great way to start our return to the US.

The next day we walked around the corner from the hotel and took the Retro Bus ($2) to the Shinshoji Temple complex, one of the most popular in Japan. The temple’s park was closed so they could repair the damage from the earthquake. The temple was built in 940 around a stature of the Buddhist Fudo Myoo deity. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon and there were plenty of visitors. The temple architecture is beautiful, especially the Three-story Pagoda built in 1712. At the highest point in the complex is the Great Pagoda of Peace built in 1984. In the Great Main Hall we attended a Buddhist ceremony called Sacred Fire Rite. It is conducted several times every day and anybody can attend. During the service wooden sticks are burned on a platform in front of the image of Fudo Myoo. The fire represents the wisdom of Fudo Myoo and aids in eliminating earthy passions, which are symbolized by the sticks, and helps to bring worshipers to a higher state of mind in order to win the favors of Fudo Myoo.

The street by the temple is lined with typical shops and restaurants. After lunch in one of the restaurants we boarded the Retro Bus and completed the loop, which stopped at a large shopping mall and the airport. Anyone with 3 to 5 hour layover in Narita can take the Retro Bus.

Cherry Blossom Time in Tokyo

2011-05-31T19:17:00.001-07:00

We were in Saipan when the big earthquake hit Japan, which was followed by the devastating tsunami and the nuclear incident. We were already booked to Tokyo and considered changing our itinerary but decided to stay with our original plan. The city is built to withstand most earthquakes. We were on the 33rd floor of the Conrad Hotel when the 7.2 quake happened. It would have damaged most cities but the hotel swayed a bit as it is built to do. In the nine days we were in Tokyo were daily 2.5 to 6.2 aftershocks.

It was cherry blossom time – usually peak tourist season in Tokyo. There were virtually no tourists but the parks were full of local people making us realize it must be unbelievably crowded most years. As is often our method we stayed at three hotels. The Mercure Ginza, in the center of the shopping area, had hotel-generated do-it-yourself tour fliers. Using one of the fliers we toured Ueno Park famous for its cherry trees. The park has several large museums and a zoo but we chose to go to the small Shitamatchi Museum that recreates the atmosphere of Tokyo from the 1860s to the 1940s when shop houses were prevalent. It was a beautiful, relaxing day. Following the information on another flyer we signed up for a free guided tour of the Imperial Palace’s East Garden.

It worked out perfectly because the tour was scheduled during the time we were at the Peninsula Hotel, which is directly in front of the Imperial Palace. The tour did not include the Palace interior. We were surprised at the simplicity of the Imperial Palace. The previous Palace was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt with low, straight lines. The Peninsula ranks as one of the world’s best hotels. Gotta’ love a hotel that has a fleet of Rolls Royces then purchases a special edition Mini Cooper perfect for city shopping trips. The hotel had two free iPod tours, which we enjoyed. One toured the amazing artwork in the hotel while the other took us across the street to beautiful Hibiya Park.

Our last stop was the Conrad Hotel with an incredible view of Tokyo Harbor. The 28th floor lounge has one of the best Tokyo views. The Conrad is across from Hama-rikyu Gardens where the cherry trees were in full bloom. After wandering the park we took the boat ride on the cherry-tree-lined Sumida River. Japanese gardens are works of art. Interestingly, so many of the cherry trees were destroyed during the war that we sent seedlings from the ones in DC that they had gifted to us.

Midway between the Mercure and the Conrad is the Shimbashi Enbujo Theater, the temporary home of Kabuki, Japanese traditional theater. It seemed a bit expensive until we realized it was about the same as seeing a Broadway show in NYC. We are so glad we attended. Even the least expensive tickets had good viewing. It included three different performances and lasted four hours. The English language headphones made it very enjoyable. Interestingly, between the first and second performances most of the patrons ate from a box dinner that they had pre-purchased or brought with them.

We were glad we didn’t change our plans. We have transited through Japan many times but this was the first time we stayed. The country is amazingly efficient, safe, and genteel.

Exploring Okinawa

2011-05-31T18:44:00.000-07:00

Okinawa is one of Japan’s southern islands. It has one of several US military bases in Japan. We stayed at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in the heart of Naha, the capital city, with an incredible array of duty free shopping. We had planned to rent a car for a couple of days and tour the island but we could not because we did not have an international driver’s license. It has been years since we were asked for one so we didn’t even think to get one. However, it turned out to be for the best because we accomplished more by taking two day tours and for about the same price.

Because of the earthquake and tsunami tourism was way down so there were only a dozen people on the tour bus. The guide only spoke Japanese but we had a headset that gave us great narrations. We loved the guides because between the narratives they would sing a beautiful Japanese ballad. Very impressive. One day the tour took us to the northern part of the island where a lookout point called Manzamo, which translates into “where 10,000 people can sit.” We had a wonderful lunch at a restaurant served in what they call a “bento box,” a lacquered portioned lunchbox. We visited the aquarium and saw the dolphin show which was excellent but wish we had more time as the Ocean Expo Park is huge and we didn’t have time to visit the cultural village. The tour also stopped at the site of Nakjin Castle and then Nago Pineapple Park with great pineapple wine tasting included.

Another day we visited the southern part of the island which is where most of the fighting during World War II occurred. We stopped at the Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters where the soldiers committed suicide instead of surrendering. That was followed by the Himeyuri Monument where over 200 young volunteer nurses (ages 15-19) killed themselves instead of surrendering. The most impressive memorial to WW II we have ever seen was the Okinawa Peace Prayer and Memorial along with the Cornerstone of Peace that is a place to remember and honor the 200,000 people who lost their lives in the Battle of Okinawa and to “appreciate the peace in which we live today and to pray for everlasting world peace.” It lists everyone who was killed in the battle – Japanese and American soldiers along with civilians. It made me wonder where our “peace” memorials are. It was even more profound for us because we had just finishing reading “The Girl with the White Flag.” It is a young adult book written by Tomika Higa who at the age of seven wandered around the battlefield for seven weeks alone. It is an amazing survival story which should be compulsory reading – better than the Anne Frank story because she survives. While looking at photos in the museums we realized that the author was just one of many children caught in the crossfires of war.

There is an excellent monorail in Naha so we took it to the Shuri Castle. The original castle was destroyed during the WW II bombing but the replica is excellent. It was once the seat of the Ryukyu Kingdom which ruled the island from the 15th to 19th centuries. It was impressive. Luckily we visited on a day when they had an excellent folkloric show.

Saipan and Tinian: American Paradises

2011-04-20T16:22:00.000-07:00

Saipan is only a 40-minute flight from Guam and it, too, is American and extremely popular with Japanese and Korean tourists. We stayed at the Saipan Hyatt for two weeks and hated to leave. The hotel has a beautiful beach well-protected by a reef, a wonderful free-form pool surrounded by a tropical garden, and excellent dining options. It is walking distance to the American Memorial Park with a WW II War in the Pacific Museum, the weeklystreet fair, and duty-free shopping.

John and I not only enjoyed our days in the sun but we also visited three schools – Brilliant Star Montessori School, Whispering Palms private school, and Camacho Elementary School where we did a power point presentation on schools around the world. We enjoy visiting schools and meeting with the students. But the most fun was participating in an outreach program organized by the Hyatt. They brought in 28 high school seniors for a program on promoting tourism. Since Saipan is an American commonwealth they obviously speak English and follow the American curriculum.

Just a short walk from the Hyatt is the American Memorial Park and museum where we learned more about Saipan’s position during the War in the Pacific. The battle was intense and losses were great for such a small island. Unlike, Guam, which was American before WW II, Saipan and nearby Tinian were Japanese terrorities. At the north end of the island are Banzai and Suicide Cliffs where over 20,000 civilians killed themselves rather than be captured by the American troops who had been demonized by the Japanese military. Attempts by American soldiers to assure them they would not be mistreated basically went unheeded. The same awful situation occurred on nearby Tinian Island.

One day we flew to Tinian which is only a few miles from Saipan – a 15-minute flight including taxi time. We rented a car and drove to North Field where the Enola Gay and Bock’s Car B-29 bombers took off to drop the atomic bombs on Japan. We didn’t seen any other people or vehicles. Tinian is smaller than Saipan and a very quiet place. North Field has overgrown with only small glass coverings over where the atomic bombs were housed plus some memorials dedicated to groups who served on the island. In 1945 it was the world’s busiest airport. I was surprised that such a landmark event in history has not been taken care of; in fact, there is talk about doing away with the entire site.

Also on the island are the amazing latte stones called Taga House. They that are some of the largest in the Pacific. The 20-foot high stones are said to be the pillars which supported the home of the chief. Once again we have encountered massive stone structures that made us wonder how people could have mined, transported and erected such huge stones without our modern methods. There are usually three replies to our inquired: the people were giants or they had supernatural powers or they don’t have any idea.

The Saipan weekly street fair is just steps from the Hyatt. It was an opportunity to sample local food and to see traditional Chamorro dance performances.

Today Saipan is a wonderfully serene island surrounded by a tropical ocean. Airfare is expensive from Central New York but we used our frequent flyer miles to create an add-on trip from Tokyo.

April 19, 1943 at the Dallas Holocaust Museum

2011-04-20T16:12:00.000-07:00

When John and I were in Dallas, I visited the Holocaust Museum. They are in the process of raising money for a new building for their museum but meanwhile they have made the maximum use of their small space. They took an interesting approach to the Holocaust by featuring the events that occurred on one day in three different places. That day was April 19, 1943. Each place had a unique reaction to what was happening to the Jewish population in Europe.

The museum’s slogan is “Be an Upstander not a Bystander” so they focus on three different responses to the Holocaust. They highlight two acts of bravery and courage while at the very same time the powerful decision-makers in the Allied governments remained indifferent.

In Poland the Jewish people had been confined to a ghetto. On that day in April it was the Jewish feast of Passover, 1200 Jews armed with smuggled in pistols, rifles, a few machine guns, grenades and Molotov cocktails engaged in a battle with over 2000 Waffen SS soldiers under the command of SS General Jürgen Stroop who attacked with tanks, artillery and flame throwers. The first attack by the SS was repulsed by the Jews, leaving 12 Germans dead. The Germans renewed the attack, but found it difficult to kill or capture the small battle groups of Jews, who would fight, then retreat through a maze of cellars, sewers and other hidden passageways to escape capture. The Jews in Warsaw resisted for a total of 28 days.

On that very same day in Belgium three young men risked their lives to rescue Jews from a deportation train bound for Auschwitz from Belgium. As part of a resistance unit, Georges Livchitz, a young Jewish physician, forced the train to stop, held the engineer at bay while his two non-Jewish comrades, Robert Maistriau and Jean Franklemon, forced open the doors of several cars allowing some of the Jewish deportees to escape. Of the 1631 Jews on the deportation train 231 managed to escape. Livchitz was later captured, tried and executed. Maistriau and Franklemon were arrested and deported to Bergen-Belsen. Both survived their time in the concentration camp and lived a long life. It was the only time during the Holocaust that a train was attacked on its way to one of the notorious camps.

Meanwhile a group of officials representing the British and American governments met in a plush hotel on the beautiful resort island of Bermuda to discuss the question of Jewish refugees who had been liberated by Allied forces and those who remained in Nazi-occupied Europe. They basically decided to do nothing but agreed that the war must be won.

The museum shows the actions of those who rose up to defend themselves and those who risked their lives to help others in contrast to the politicians who chose to do nothing. Prominently placed at the entrance of the museum is the quote by Albert Einstein: “The World is too dangerous to live in - not because of the people who do evil, but because of the people who sit and let it happen.”

Sadly persecutions continue today even though people vowed “never again.” Today the museum makes their message timely by referring to bullying, racism, and other forms of discrimination. They maintain that “A different world cannot be built by indifferent people.”

Return to Guam: America's Pacific Island

2011-04-07T02:45:00.000-07:00

We visited Guam, an American territory in the Western Pacific, for the second time and meet up with Cindy Hanson, a friend we made during our previous trip. Cindy wears many hats but is always trying to promote Guam and tourism. On Saturday mornings she has a two-hour radio show and asked us to be her guests. During the broadcast we mentioned we had not seen any latte stones which are huge stones used as building supports by the Chamorros, the native people of the Marianas. Franklin Arturo called into the show and invited us to his country place in the northern part of the island to see the many latte stones on his property. It was an incredible experience. His stones are some of the largest on the Island.

Even more amazing was the story of George Tweed, the Robinson Crusoe of the USN. Tweed was the radioman who escaped capture by the Japanese during WW II by hiding on Guam for nearly three years. He was the only American to survive the Japanese occupation of Guam. The Japanese searched for him every day the entire time he was in hiding until his rescue on July 10, 1944. During most of that time the Arturos brought him supplies and kept the fact that they were hiding him a tight secret. When the Marines landed in Guam, Tweed signaled the American destroyers with flags he had made and a pocket mirror. He warned the military about the Japanese gun placements and asked to be rescued. Within five minutes of receiving his message rescue was on the way. While in hiding Tweed computed what he thought the government owed him in back pay. It amounted to about $6000, a tidy sum in those days. Tweed asked Arturo what he would do with all that money. He said he’d buy a four-door Chevy. Tweed returned to Guam in 1945, bringing a Chevrolet sedan to Mr. Arturo as a gift from the president of General Motors. Franklin Arturo shared his Tweed scrapbook with us. He invited us to share his barbecue lunch. Truly an amazing day.

With Cindy and her son Ezequle we visited the War in the Pacific Museum and the site of the concentration camp where the Japanese kept the Chamorros. We stopped for lunch at Jeff’s Pirate Cove and learned another amazing story. The restaurant is located where the last WW II Japanese soldier on Guam, Shoichi Yokoi, surrendered in 1972. He had lived in a cave in a remote part of the island for 28 years. He said he knew the war was over because he heard American music but remained hiding because he was afraid the Americans would kill him. The story along with news articles are posted on the wall of the restaurant.

Not only did we enjoy exploring Guam again but spent time relaxing around the pool. The Guam Hyatt has one of the nicest pools we have encountered. It has several levels with areas connect by waterfalls. After spending two months in Asia where we love the food we were craving for a hamburger. Each day when we were at the pool we lunched on an incredibly wonderful hamburger. So very good! We also visited the amazing tunnel aquarium next to the hotel. Duty free Guam is a heaven for shoppers with everything from K-Mart to Gucci.

Malasia's Penang Island Beach Destination

2011-04-07T02:38:00.000-07:00

We have been to several places in Malaysia and each area is unique. The capital city of Kuala Lumpur has the amazing twin Petronas Towers. Melaka is a beautiful historic city with a Dutch heritage. The world’s oldest rainforest is in Taman Negara National Park, there are two Malaysian states on the island of Borneo, and several islands. This was our first time on the island of Penang, the countries most popular beach destination. The island is a fascinating mix of East and West. It is a well-developed and very tourist friendly. There are many high-rise luxury condos and many more being constructed. They advertise “Malaysia: Your Second Home.” In ten years it may look like Hong Kong, a city of high rise buildings. Penang was under the control of the British for many years. During that time they built Fort Cornwallis and one of the famous landmarks is the nearby Queen Victoria Memorial Clock Tower. The 60-foot tower was built in 1897 by a Penang millionaire to commemorate the 60th year of Queen Victoria’s reign. A few years ago George Town, the capital, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage City. Besides the English influence there are the Clan Jetties created by the Chinese immigrant fishermen. The beautiful blue Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion built about 100 years ago by a wealthy businessman is a fusion of Asian and Western architecture. Because of the ethnic mix there are churches, temples, and mosques, one of which is called the floating mosque because at high tide it is surrounded by water. We visited two Buddhist temples that were conveniently located across the street from one another. Even though both were Buddhist one was Burmese and the other Thai. Like Christian churches there are variations in the Buddhist temples but they are all beautiful and fascinating. Penang likes to promote itself as a culinary destination which, given the ethnic diversity, makes it a great place to eat. Americans may think they invented the food court and mall concept but the truth is they have had similar shops in Asia for years. They called their food outlets hawker stalls. Today hawker stalls have gone modern and are often in a food court. We had lunch at the New World Park where there was an amazing variety of food much of which was only a dollar or two a plate. My favorite was a local iced dessert called Ice Kacang. It was the perfect thing on a hot day and after spicy chicken curry. Ice Kacang starts as shaved ice topped with a variety of things: sweet red beans, sweet corn, grass jelly, palm fruit, ice cream, evaporated milk, and other things. It may not sound yummy but it is the best sundae I have ever had! We stayed at the beautiful Park Royal Hotel for a week where they offered cooking demonstrations twice a week. We learned how to make Fried Koay Teow, the national dish of Penang, and Sweet and Sour Fish. Most of the week at the Park Royal we spent enjoying their beautiful pool and a great beach. The hotel has an amazing and harmonious cultural mix of people from Europe and the Middle East. There were ladies in bikinis swimming with gals in burkinis – a lightweight swim outfit that covers the body completely. Penang is a popular honeymoon destination for Saudis and the women went jet skiing and parasailing fully covered.

Visiting Kuching, Malaysia

2011-04-07T02:24:00.000-07:00

The image I had of Borneo was one of an undeveloped place with dense jungles and people living a primitive lifestyle so I was surprised when we arrived in Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, one of the Malaysian states on the island of Borneo. The city is clean, modern, and very tourist friendly. Malaysia shares the island with the Sultanate of Brunei and Indonesia. From our room in the Hilton we could see across the Sarawak River to the beautiful new administrative building and parts of the city where there were both Christmas and Chinese New Year decorations.

Malaysia is an Islamic state but there is a harmonious blend of religions and cultures. A short distance from the city is the Semmenggoh Orang Utan Rehabilitation Center. At the center rescued orangutans are treated and trained to survive in the wild. They are free-roaming but many show up at feeding time for a free and easy meal. They have very human emotions. Our guide explained that one badly mistreated orangutan came to trust one of the volunteers but became depressed then angry when she left. After feeding time was over we took a trail that goes through the jungle where it was easy to spot many of the orangutans. On the way back into the city we stopped at a Bidayuh traditional longhouse village where we were welcomed with drink of local rice wine. The houses are built on stilts and connected with a long porch in a traditional manner but they have TVs and other modern conveniences. One young boy was playing with this Game Boy.

The name Kuching means “cat” so it seemed right to visit the world’s first Cat Museum filled with a variety of cat-related displays. About an hour from Kuching is the Sarawak Cultural Village, a living museum that depicts the heritage of the major racial groups in Sarawak. Entering the village we were given a passport which was stamped in each of the seven ethnic homes built around a man-made lake. Each house is unique and most are entered by steps made from a notched log that could easily be pulled up making it difficult for unwelcome visitors to enter. Our arrival at the Bidayuh house was announced by the sound of several gongs. The Bidayuh have a head house where the young warriors, always on alert for any danger, stay and where the skulls of their enemies killed in battle are kept. In the Iban house women were making a rice treat and in the Orang Ulu house we enjoyed fresh deep fried chips from the tapioca root. Especially impressive was the 45-minute colorful dance show highlighting the various ethnic groups. The Iban dance shows the strength of the warrior as he lifts a mortar with his teeth, a Penan demonstrated his skill with a blowpipe, and very impressive was the man of the Melanau tribe who balanced atop a bamboo pole while it is twirled around.

Adjacent to the Sarawak Culture Center is the Damai Beach Resort where we relaxed for several days enjoying the pools. Each morning the staff met at the flag pools and sang the national anthems of Malaysia and Sarawak then recited a pledge to do their best to serve their guests. One of the hotel’s activities was a cooking demonstration of local food including raw fish salad from the Melanau. Sarawak is on our gotta’-visit-again list.

The Swallows of Capistrano

2011-03-12T13:05:00.000-08:00

I have always been intrigued by the swallows that return to Mission San Jan Capistrano every March 19 – or are suppose to. My interest is due in part because it happens on my birthday so when John and I were in California we made a point to visit the mission which is located near the coast between San Diego and Los Angeles.

The guided tour starts with a history of the Acjachemen, the Native Americans who had lived for more than 10,000 years in the area that is now Orange County. Basically, they were hunter-gathers who lived in dome-shaped houses called kiicha made of natural material. Large grinding stones and other artifacts are on display at the mission.

The mission was the seventh of twenty-one missions to be founded in Alta California as part of Spanish territorial expansion in North America. Unlike the British on the East Coast, who brought people from their homeland to form colonies, the Spanish believed they could transform the Native people into good Spanish citizens with the missions as a center of learning and training. The Spanish government and Catholic Church wanted to convert the people to Christianity and train them in a Spanish or European lifestyle, so that they would eventually live in towns and pay taxes like good Spanish citizens. Founded in 1776, the Mission San Juan Capistrano is home to the oldest building still in use in California, namely the Serra’s Chapel built in 1782. The Native Americans were intrigued by the glass, cloth, horses, guns, and other new items the Spanish introduced into their culture. Many of the Native Americans moved to the mission and were baptized into the Christian religion.

Each mission had five or six soldiers, two missionaries, plus the Native Americans. The mission became a busy place with people making the adobe bricks needed to build the mission, raising food to feed everyone, tanning hides, making tallow, blacksmithing, weaving and all the other occupations needed to support the growing community. Slowly it became a typical community similar to many the Spanish created in the Western Hemisphere. After the tour we wandered around the mission. The museum has numerous interesting displays offering further insight into the Spanish era. Period rooms show the living quarters and kitchen of the time. Today the central garden is serene and lovely but at one time it was bustling with activity.

For over 30 years, Mission San Juan Capistrano grew in area and population. By 1806, Mission San Juan Capistrano had a population of over a 1,000 people with over 10,000 head of cattle, and a completed architectural gem, The Great Stone Church. In 1812 an earthquake caused the Great Stone Church to collapse and that along with a variety of other factors led to the mission’s decline. Over the years things changed - the Native Americans lost their identity, the Spanish lost their territory, and the swallows found other nesting areas.

The swallows still return to the San Juan Capistrano area but not in the numbers that they did in the past and almost none return to the mission. Attempts to lure them back to the mission have not been successful. Urbanization has led them to build their nests in other spots in the area but March 19, the day they are scheduled to return, still draws throngs of people in hopes of seeing the birds.

Checking out Bangladesh

2011-03-12T03:56:00.000-08:00

Bangladesh is not high on most people’s list of places to visit. Truth be known it wasn’t high on our To-do-List either but the flight to Dhaka from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on Air Asia was reasonable and it was a country we had not visited… so why not?

We made two good decisions. One, we decided to stay only one week instead of two mainly because local travel agents did not respond making it difficult to make arrangements. Secondly, we booked a week at the Pan Pacific Sonargaon. We have stayed at many Pan Pacific hotels in Asia and loved them all. Our visa on arrival was a quick, painless procedure. A staff member from Pan Pacific was waiting for us… it is always a warm, fuzzy feeling to exit customs to see someone holding a sign with our name on it.

As luck would have it we arrived during the Moslem World Convocation which was held near the airport so the normally crowded roads of Dhaka were in gridlock. The usual 30-minute ride to the hotel took three hours. We were impressed with the patience people exhibited while waiting. When we arrived at the beautiful Pan Pacific Hotel it was like entering an oasis of calm. The hotel is wonderful with great restaurants, a beautiful pool, and very friendly staff. Unlike most of our travels where the hotel is usually just a place to sleep we kicked back and enjoyed the hotel for several days.

Feeling a bit guilty about not seeing the sites we booked a city tour. We visited Ahsan Manzil and Lalbah both sites from the times of the great Mughal Empire. Obviously, Western tourists are a rarity because we were the main attraction. People were very friendly but curious. We were welcomed in English by many people, especially children and had our picture taken by a slew of people. One young lad about seven years old dressed in a black suit offered to shake hands saying in very precise English, “It is a pleasure to meet you.”

However, the Dhaka traffic gives new meaning to heavy traffic even on a normal workday. There are many nice cars along with bike-driven rickshaws, motorcycle cabs, motorbikes, and trucks. It made visiting the historic sites in the city difficult so we decided to head out of the city and take a river trip.

Once we left the city the traffic was normal and there were many interesting things to see along the way. We arrived at the river bank of the Meghna River, a river which originates in the Himalayas, and boarded a traditional wooden boat. The rivers are the best way to transport goods and people. Bangladesh is a country of rivers.
Our river trip was lovely and relaxing. Joining us was our guide, Catherine, along with Ferdous, the owner of the travel agency, and his wife and baby. We stopped at a fishing village on a large sand island in the river where we were welcomed graciously and given a tour of their village. The river is everything to the people. It is where they get their food, bathe, and wash their clothes. One lady invited us into her tidy home she shares with her daughter and son-in-law. We found the people to be hard workers and very friendly. When we left they were sprucing up the city to host the Cricket World Cup.

Amazing Resort in Myanmar

2011-03-12T03:40:00.000-08:00

The trip to Bangkok is long – very long. We planned a recuperation day at the beautiful Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel before continuing on. They provide airport pickup and The Novotel has a lovely pool and a great spa.

From Bangkok it is a short, inexpensive flight on Air Asia to Yangon, Myanmar. The most impressive site in Yangon is the golden Schwedagon Pagoda. From our window at Traders Hotel we could see the amazing pagoda at night. The lighting makes it look like a vision from a fairy tale.

From Yangon it was a one-hour flight on a domestic airline that served a light lunch with a drink to Amazing Resort in Ngapali. The resort is so amazing we recently returned for our fourth visit. The sand is soft on the long curving beach, the waves are gently and the water of the Bay of Bengal is warm. The beautifully landscaped property reflects Myanmar style with local handicrafts for decorations. It all blends beautifully with the palm trees.

This year we arrived in time to celebrate John’s birthday. As usual the staff dressed in local attire was at the gate of the small airport waiting to transport us to the hotel which is only about five minutes away while other staff members transported our luggage directly from the airport to the our room. But what was really amazing was when we arrived at the hotel. The staff had made a beautiful welcome sign for us.

The next morning, John’s birthday, we went for a walk on the beach before breakfast. The dining area of the hotel overlooks the infinity pool and beach with a panoramic view of the Bay of Bengal. The staff had prepared a special breakfast table decorated with blossoms and a card for the birthday boy. If that wasn’t special enough Adrian, the Service Manager, and Kyaw Swar Maung Maung, the Resident Manager, presented us with Amazing Resort golf shirts that had John’s name with a birthday greeting on the back. Amazing! But what really caught us off guard was when we returned to our room to find three staff waiting. They had decorated the room with balloons and inscribed on the king size bed in red and yellow rose petals was “Happy Birthday, Mr. John Scott.” John’s birthday dinner ended with a cake surrounded by a musical trio singing “Happy Birthday.”

We spent most of our time relaxing on the beach. John walked into town a couple of times, I enjoyed my free spa treatments and we visited the Buddhist monastery across from the hotel.

Myanmar has wonderful tourist sites: the ancient city of Bagan, Lake Inle with the unique leg rowers, Mandalay and many other places. When people hear we are going to Myanmar we get a raised eyebrow expression. To go or not to go was a dilemma we faced before our first visit but when we found that many tour groups from Europe visit we decided to go. We found a country that is beautiful, the people welcoming and one of the safest countries in the world for tourists. We stay at places that are locally and privately owned. The only difficulty is that it is a cash-only country. Credit cards are not accepted so we have to make sure we bring enough dollars to cover all our expenses. We have seen improvements since our first visit. Change is coming but slowly.

Maximize your travel

2011-02-15T15:09:00.000-08:00

John and I travel compulsively and have since the 1980s. Now that we have retired we are on the road six to seven months a year. Over the years we have developed ways to keep our traveling expenses down.

We belong to an amazing number of customer loyalty programs but try to concentrate on Continental Airlines and their partners. Our credit card also gives us miles on Continental. We are using some of our miles for this winter’s trip. Our other credit card helps to accrue credit at the InterContinental family of hotels which includes Holiday Inns. We picked IC Hotels because they have one of the largest selections of hotels worldwide. We charge everything. The trick with credit cards is to pay them off each month.

We save money by visiting places in the off-season and looking for discounts. There are coupons for US hotels, restaurants and attractions in free booklets at visitor centers and other stops along major highways. Also, most telephone books have a section with coupons.

A guidebook is not only helpful in planning a trip but offers many money-saving tips. Most official tourist office web sites have a list of free things to do. The Hong Kong Tourist Board has wonderful free tours. Museums usually have one day or evening when admission is free. Greeters programs in NYC, Toronto, Chicago, Buenos Aires and several other locations offer excellent free walking tours. We make most of our arrangements ourselves and try to deal locally. Dealing locally helps the local economy especially in third world countries and cuts out the middleman. The Internet is a wonderful thing when planning. If I am unsure about a place I post a question on the forum at Virtualtourist.com. I have received valuable information from other travelers especially with how to get from Point A to Point B.

We travel with our net books so we can plan as we go, e-mailing the family is cheaper than phoning, and we can store our images from our camera. We also save our images on the Kodak Gallery where we can share them with the family and have the pictures waiting for us when we get home.

Connecting with the local people enhances travel. Ask the hotel receptionist about farmer’s markets, school performances, and other local events. There are “meet-the-people” web sites. We like to visit schools.

In the United States we love to letterbox especially with the grandchildren. There are thousands of secret boxes hidden all over the United States including Oswego County. Go to letterboxing.org, click on a location, and then follow the clues. They usually end up at an interesting location.

Eating out can be expensive. We don’t eat out every night when we are home nor do we when traveling. Most hotels provide breakfast. Buying a sandwich to eat in a local park is not only inexpensive but is restful. For dinner most evenings we get something from a local deli or store. Some of our favorite meals have been on the patio or balcony of our hotel.

Before we head to a foreign country we print out a Financial Cheat Sheet from a money conversion site so we know the value of the money we are dealing with.
Travel, like everything else, is a matter of priorities. There are, and were, many things we did not do or purchase so there was money for travel.

Agrentina's Chocolate Street

2011-02-10T19:49:00.000-08:00

When we were in Argentina we loved the city of Bariloche. It is located in the southwestern part of Argentina near the Chilean border. It may have many claims to fame but for us it was a chocolate paradise. Since chocolate and Valentine’s Day are a perfect combination John and I often think of Bariloche at this time of year.

In the late 1800’s Austrians and Germans looking for a better life settled in the beautiful, fertile valley nestled in the Andes because it reminded them of their Bavarian homeland. Bariloche's chocolate history began after World War II, when some of the European immigrants began making chocolate at home. Today some of Bariloche's chocolates are still handmade but most are prepared by a combination of machines and handcrafting.

John and I dubbed Bariloche’s main street the “Street of Chocolate Dreams.” It is lined with stores selling chocolates with tourists trying to decide which store offers the best chocolate. It is a yummy dilemma! There was only one solution to the dilemma. John and I visited all the stores tasting samples from all the chocolatiers!

We started with a sample of milk chocolate at Franton’s small candy shop with a corner candy store ambiance and continued to Del Turista, a chocolate department store where the chef was creating Mousse de Chocolate. We watched as he spread the smooth creamy chocolate on the marble counter, waited a few minutes, then peeled off strips, which he curled and crowned the mousse. It looked so easy – and yummy!

Next stop was Fenoglio, a bit of the Black Forest in Bariloche. They claim it is the place where chocolate dreams become reality. Fenoglio is the original chocolate factory of Bariloche. It is where it all started more than 50 years ago. With a little bag of mint chocolates we walked to the next store.

At Boniface Chocolates, a small and friendly family store, they insisted we try one of their specialties – chocolate liquor. Truth be told it didn’t take much persuading. Chocolate with a little kick. We liked that!

La Mexicana Chocolates was one of our favorites. The saleslady, Martha, extolled the virtues of La Mexicana chocolates, “The company is still family run.

Next stop, grandmother’s. Abuela Goye is another family brand of chocolate. (Abuela is “grandmother” in Spanish). It is easy to find because of the life-size figure of “grandmother” stands outside the store enticing customers to enter and try the chocolate from “grandmother’s” own recipe.

I was intrigued by the huge matryoshka nesting doll display above the entrance to the Mamuschka Chocolate store. “Why a Russian name for a chocolate store in Argentina?” I asked the store manager. “No special reason except the owner loves the Russian nesting dolls.”

The final store was another chocolatier with a catchy name, Rapa Nui, which is the Polynesian name for Easter Island. Easter Island is part of Chile not Argentina; but again, it was just a favorite of the owner. We caught Maria Luz delivering a fresh batch of bonbons so, of course, we had to try them.

John and I headed to the Bariloche’s picturesque main plaza, gazed out over the tranquil lake, and had our lunch of chocolate. We each had a different favorite. I liked the caramel filled while John favored the dark solid chocolate. However, we both agreed it was all good.

Cleveland great for the grandkids

2011-02-10T19:42:00.000-08:00

Cleveland never fails to surprise me. Cleveland’s University Circle includes The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland Museum of Natural History, Cleveland Botanical Garden, and other attractions.

Over the holidays we took our grandsons to Cleveland for a couple of days. One day we spent around the Wade Oval, which is part of University Circle, and home to three amazing museums. We started at the Cleveland Museum of Art. It is very kid-friendly and free. The Hall of European Arms and Armor was reminiscent of Harry Potter and a perfect place for the boys. The museum has designed a Treasure Hunt especially for kids but John and I also had fun. Using “It’s a Zoo in There” Treasure Hunt card we searched out the animals in paintings.

From the art museum it was a very short walk to the Museum of Natural History. We were just in time for the show in the planetarium. They will never forget the Pleiades, also known as the Seven Sisters and Subaru, because the rest of the week we were on the lookout for Subaru cars so we could confirm that the car’s logo is the star cluster. The museum also has a great activity book to go along with their current exhibit “Extreme Mammals” an amazing display of the small and tall. We always stop to pay our respects to the real Balto, the dog that inspired the Iditarod sled race.

Our last stop for the day was the Cleveland Botanical Gardens, which may not sound like a logical choice during the winter but the Eleanor Armstrong Smith Glasshouse makes it a multi-season destination. We picked up identification charts before entering gardens. It is amazing what kids know today. The seven-year-old quickly identified the display of Madagascar Hissing Cockroaches. Maybe he learned that from the movie.

It was a great day. We stayed at the Marriott Residence Inn Downtown where we had the perfect suite with two bedrooms. We ordered a pizza and had a quiet evening.

The next day we headed to the Great Lakes Science Center. It is located in another great area with the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame next door and, if it had been summer, we could have taken a scenic boat ride and explored the Steamship Wm. G. Mather docked nearby. I like the idea of parking once for the day and doing a variety of things.

Surely they had three active preteens in mind when they created the Strange Matter exhibit with instructions to “Touch it, Twist it, Smash it.” It was a totally hands-on place that got rid of a lot of energy – not ours – theirs! In the NASA John Glenn Visitor Center they had fun pretending they were astronauts. This was a good place to let each of them do whatever interested them as long as they stayed in the same area. All the museums had cafes for lunch. After lunch it was quiet time so we went to the IMAX Theater to see Under the Sea. We have done a lot of snorkeling in many places around the world but had never seen most of the creatures in the film. In some cases it was a good thing.

This wasn’t our first trip to the Cleveland museums and it won’t be the last. Cleveland is a great destination for all ages.

Catalina Island - 26 Miles Across the Sea

2011-02-10T19:22:00.000-08:00

John and I remember the Four Preps hit, “26 Miles.” It sounded wonderful with “Water all around it everywhere. Tropical trees and the salty air.” So when we were in California recently we put it on our itinerary and we were not disappointed.

It was off-season – our favorite time to visit – but the weather was perfect. In a little more than an hour on the Catalina Ferry we were on the “Island of Romance.” Our hotel, the Metropole, was right on the main street and with a great view of the sea.

The locals like to mention all the ironic features of the island. There are no eucalyptus trees on Eucalyptus Street, the only private beach is public, and there is no gambling in the Casino. The word “casino” means “meeting place” and that is exactly what the Catalina Casino is. Our tour of the building was fascinating and included the song “Avalon” played on the historic pipe organ as we entered and a short Buster Keaton silent movie clip in the beautiful theater. The top floor is one of the world’s largest circular dance floors without supporting pillars. At one time a record-setting 6200 guests danced to Kay Kyser’s band.

On the Inside Adventure Bus Tour we learned that William Wrigley, Jr. of chewing gum fame purchased the island for $5 million in 1919 – sight unseen. After passing where Zane Grey lived while writing some of his novels the bus headed out of the town of Avalon offering us great views of the scenic coastlines and the unspoiled countryside alive with wild animals. Most impressive were the American bison. They were brought to the island for the filming of Zane Gray’s novel, “The Vanishing American.” Viewing the powerful creatures butting heads, running across the road, or standing majestically on the hillside was a high point of the tour. The Inside Adventure Tour has it all – history, nature, and fantastic views.

Another day we went ocean rafting on a powered inflatable raft and saw dolphins, seals and bald eagles. The dolphins are protected so people can not feed or swim with the playful creatures but those who dangle their hand over the side are sometimes rewarded as they cozy up to be petted.

We viewed the underwater world around Catalina Island on the yellow submarine, the USS Nautilus. A multi-media display on the monitor adds to the excitement as it simulates the lights and sounds of a dive. The display also shows and identifies the various fish and plant life. The Nautilus has a row of porthole windows along the each side making viewing easy. As the Nautilus leaves the harbor it passes through a forest of Giant Perennial Kelp.
When the vessel arrives in Lovers Cove Marine Preserve the fish show up – hundreds of them including the bright orange Garibaldi fish, the California state fish and thus protected. People can buy shots of food, which are torpedoed out into the water creating an amazing feeding frenzy. Truly an amazing sight. The Nautilus is the perfect adventure for those who want to see the undersea world but don’t want to get wet. Typical of every place we visit there is never enough time to do everything. Catalina Island has beaches, diving, zip lines, shopping, great restaurants, and more. To learn about Catalina Island check http://www.visitcatalinaisland.com/ or call 800-626-1496.

Off the Beaten Path in Ojai, California

2011-01-13T22:10:00.000-08:00

I think one of the best parts of traveling is discovering out-of-the-way places. Ojai is one of our great discoveries. It is a lovely spot between Santa Barbara and Ventura on the edge of the Los Padres National Forest with eucalyptus trees, hiking/biking trails, unique shops, and small ranches. It has drawn artists, free spirits and city-weary folks. One of the residents said, “It is where Buddha meets Bubba.”

We stayed at the Lavender Inn, which is one of the oldest buildings in town and was originally built as a schoolhouse in 1874. It is just off the main street so we could walk to shops, the museum, and restaurants. Plus the trolley stop is just steps away – and it only costs a quarter. Like many restaurants, the Lavender Inn tries to use only locally grown produce in their wonderful breakfast recipes and in the hors d'oeuvres served during the afternoon social hour.

The Mediterranean climate allows farmers to grow just about anything. The area is one of America’s great farming regions so we visited some of the local farms. The Asquith Farm produces olive oil from trees that are 150 years old. On the tour we learned about olive varieties, the maturing process and harvesting of the olives. Interestingly, we were told that imported virgin olive oil may not be the best as the U.S. has no standards for imported oils so importers can claim anything they wish. The Asquith Farm only produces Extra Virgin olive oil, which is made by crushing healthy olives as quickly as possible after they are harvested. Ideally the time from tree to press should be no more than 24 hours.

We also visited the New Oak Ranch. Bill and Karen Evenden, the owners, have lived in many parts of the world. They grow produce that reminds them of the many places they have lived. When their Ojai Pixie Tangerines are in bloom it reminds them of springtime along the French and Spanish coasts. But lavender is the most aromatic crop on New Oak Ranch. When Karen Evenden looked out of the expansive windows of her lovely home she thought, “How nice it would be to see a field of lavender like those we saw in Tuscany, Provence, and Croatia.” and so it came to pass.

Karen authored The Taste of Croatia and gives cooking classes – sometimes at the Lavender Inn. While we were there we watched her friend teach her how to make strudel the Croatian way. I think strudel is beyond my culinary skills. The pastry has to be so thin that the design of the tablecloth can be seen through the pastry.

On the way back to The Lavender Inn we experienced what the locals call a “Pink Moment.” It is a phenomenon first noticed by the early settlers that occurs when the brilliant sunset over the nearby Pacific is reflected on the mountainside creating a beautiful pink glow.

There are many great restaurants in the area but one of the most unique is the Farmer and the Cook. The trolley stops across from the restaurant making it a convenient place for lunch. It is a no-nonsense café where they grow most of the ingredients organically that are used to prepare their straight-from-the farm food. It was excellent and very busy.

We have visited many wonderful little towns in California but Ojai is one of our favorites.

Places in New York State to Escape from Winter

2011-01-09T14:16:00.000-08:00

If winter gets you down and you can not escape to a warmer climate then consider a few days at a spa. There are several excellent destination spas in New York State.

The Mohonk Mountain House in the Hudson Valley still has the ambiance of the Gilded Age when American aristocrats vacated to rustic but elegant retreats. Many were seasonal and faded away but The Mohonk Mountain House has managed to survive while continuing its high level of service year round. Built in 1869 this grand Victorian resort has a prized location overlooking the Hudson River Valley and has been designated a National Historic Landmark. Cross-country ski past snow-laden trees. Create your own “Currier and Ives” experience ice skating at the Pavilion but return in time to enjoy afternoon tea before retreating to the warmth of the spa.

The spa’s three-level design features wood, local stone and cedar shingles to complement the Mountain House’s existing architectural character, Along with the solarium, stone fireplace, and outdoor heated mineral pool, enjoy the indoor heated swimming pool. The pool building features windowed walls and lofty wooden beams with views of the beautiful property.

Celebrate Native American heritage at Turning Stone’s Skana Spa. It is the only spa in the Northeast that incorporates Native American elements in treating the body and spirit. Steeped in American Indian design, spa treatments include traditional Native American herbs, plants, and flowers. The name “Skana” means “peace” in the Oneida language. Guests will feel at “peace” when they enter the welcome area, which resembles an Oneida longhouse. Native America heritage is apparent throughout the Spa including artwork representing Oneida Bear, Turtle, and Wolf clans.

The Oneida people believe in harmony and balance between man and nature. They placed great importance on their dreams. The Lavender Dreams treatment promotes a tranquility of the mind, body, and spirit that is so relaxing guests soon enter “Dreamland.” In fact, each treatment room features a different Dream Catcher. The treatment begins with a gentle full body scrub followed by a lavender oil massage and an application of warm stones. Relax in the lavender wrap and dream the winter blues away. When not at the spa guests will feel that winter is over at the resort’s indoor tennis and golfing facilities.

If on a cold winter day daydreams turn to relaxing in a French Chateau then head to Mirbeau Inn and Spa in Skaneateles. Inspired by Monet and recreated in the French chateau style, Mirbeau Spa is a great place to defy winter. Many of the treatment rooms feature fireplaces but the ultimate place to thumb your nose at winter is at Mirbeau's Aqua Terrace. This beautiful outdoor oasis offers guests a unique winter experience. Relax in one of the three connected, in-ground whirlpools located at the base of a soothing waterfall that provides individual water massage seats. But the “piece-de-resistance” is the large, open hearth, French country fireplace. Sit by the fireplace, bathed in the warmth of the fire, snug in your terry robe, and, maybe, just maybe, fluffy snowflakes in the air. It will make winter seem glorious.

Once guests enter Mirbeau there is no reason to leave. Dine on French cuisine and French wine at the award-winning Giverny restaurant with a view of the snow-covered Monet-inspired lily pond.

All three places offer special packages that are rejuvenating plus makes any occasion one to remember.

Family Fun Things to do in Las Vegas, Nevada

2011-01-09T14:07:00.001-08:00

Contrary to what a lot of people think, Las Vegas can be very family friendly. We visit Vegas once a year and there are great things to do with our grandkids. On our most recent trip we took them to see Cirque du Soleil’s Viva Elvis. The show is the perfect multi-generational performance. Young and old know many of The King’s songs. In keeping with the Cirque du Soleil tradition the performance is a vibrant fusion of song, dance, acrobatics, live music, and video clips of the Elvis phenomena. The show follows the King of Rock 'n' Roll from his days in Tupelo, Mississippi to the spiritual influence from his gospel singing days to his breakthrough at Sun Records. From the opening scene with a bigger-than-life blue suede shoe to the standing ovation at the end there was never a dull moment. If fact, at times it is hard to know what to watch: the Elvis video clips, the trampoline artist bouncing from one side of the stage to the other, or the performers hanging precariously from the trapeze.

Another night we went to see V - The Ultimate Variety Show located at the Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood. If there is only time for one show this one offers something for everyone and it is very family friendly. Variety is the operative word. The energetic show has an all-star cast with amazing acts from around the world. There is faster-than-the-eye juggling, heart-stopping aerial displays that soar over the audience, and the Crazy Gauchos from Argentina with their funny routines and audience interactions while cracking their whips. And there is more – a balancing act from Russia and Jason Byrne the magician wowed all of us as he produced yellow birds out of thin air. V offers many Vegas-style presentations in one energetic, creative show at a great price.

One of my favorite days occurred when we took our granddaughter to afternoon tea at the Four Seasons Hotel. In the long-standing tradition of afternoon teas the starter included warm scones with Devonshire Cream, Strawberry Preserves and Lemon Curd. The second course included a variety of tea sandwiches featuring Cucumber and Watercress on Sourdough Bread along with other delicate sandwiches. The tea pastries were exceptional with the likes of Bittersweet Chocolate and Brandy Cherry Cake and Fresh Mango Tart. It was a wonderfully relaxing and elegant afternoon experience for our 10-year-old granddaughter.

Another day we all went to M Resort in Las Vegas for a cooking show in Studio B with Chef Tina Martini. The hotel has created a wonderful studio designed for cooking shows. The presentation was excellent but Chef Tina’s run at the M Resort has come to an end however others will follow.

There are a lot of free things to do. Everyone will learn about the natural world at the Flamingo’s Wildlife Habitat, the Mirage’s Dolphin Habitat, MGM Grand’s Lion Habitat, and Mandalay Bay’s Shark Reef. And, of course there is the volcano outside the Mirage and the fantastic fountain show in front of the Bellagio. Plus several casinos offer free presentations such as the acts at Circus Circus.

Just a short jaunt from the Vegas Strip, Ethel M’s has a free chocolate factory tour and an amazing Botanical Cactus Garden. At Red Rock there is a nature center and a variety of hiking trails. All family friendly.

A Locavore Tour of Harbor Country, Michigan

2010-12-31T17:21:00.000-08:00

It's trendy these days to be a locavore. A locavore knows where their food comes from and hopefully the source is not far from where they are dining. John and I visited Michigan’s Harbor Country, which is very much like Oswego County. They have built a thriving tourist business based on the locavore concept.

I took the culinary tour that started with breakfast at Kites Kitchen and Retro Café in New Buffalo. It was not far from the Harbor Grand Hotel where we were staying. Judy Kite-Gosh, the owner, makes everything from scratch. A cheerleader for the locavore movement, she says, “This area has so many microclimates that farmers can grow just about anything.” The Sticky Buns with Caramel Sauce were decadently delicious but surprisingly tasty was the Grass Fed Roast Beef Hash. The beef was raised locally at Middlebrook Farm in nearby Three Oaks – the next stop on my tour.

Middlebrook Farm was established in 1844 but has been owned by Bob and Janet Schuttler since 2005. The Schuttler’s enjoy sitting in their yard at the end of the day with glass of wine. When they first moved to the farm from Chicago they were surprised that there were no fireflies. What happened to them? Too many pesticides was the reason so they try to farm as naturally as possible and the fireflies are back.

No wonder the hash was so delicious. When cattle eat grass like nature planned they thrive producing nutritional and tasty beef. The Schuttler’s raise Lowline Black Angus free of antibiotics, steroids, hormones and pesticides. Schuttler explained that, “They are very docile and will follow me around. Only good things happen when cattle are grass fed. The meat is lower in fat and calories, contains more Vitamin E, and has more Omega-3 Fatty Acids plus there are other benefits.” The Schuttler’s cattle are not only grass fed but are "finished" on grass, rather than fattened up on corn for the last few months prior to processing

The next stop on my tour was Stover’s Farm Market in Berrien Springs. The passion and dedication of the farmers I met was amazing. At Stover’s I enjoyed fresh apple cider and sampled a slew of homemade products but what really impressed me was the barn. The Stover family has been farming in the area since 1870. The huge Big Red Barn was built in 1865 of hand-hewn beams held together by wooden pegs. Not originally located on the farm, the Stovers had it moved three miles to its present location – all 150 tons of it. According to June Stover, “We thought we would knock down people’s mailboxes but the barn rode so high above the road that it went over the mailboxes.” What a sight it must have been.

My next stop on the tour was the Round Barn Winery. Besides wine from their vineyards they brew their own beer and distill their own spirits. Once again what really caught my attention was the barn. The Moerschs, the owners, had a turn-of-the century Amish Round Barn transported from Indiana and rebuilt on their property. Chris Moersch explained, “The historic building is the perfect home for the round copper pot still because only good "spirits" would be created in a structure where legend says that because round buildings have no corners there is no place for evil spirits to hide.”

2010-12-31T17:12:00.000-08:00

While I was in Branson, Missouri I visited Bonniebrook, the home of Rose O’Neill. O’Neill is best remembered as the creator of the Kewpie Doll. I think everyone recognizes the Kewpie Doll. Other popular dolls have faded in memory but the Kewpie has not.

The story of Rose O’Neill is fascinating. Born in Pennsylvania she moved to Nebraska. At the age of 14 she won a contest sponsored by the Omaha World Herald for the best drawing by a Nebraska schoolchild. Her submission, called “Temptation Leading Down into an Abyss,” did not seem like a topic or drawing by a 14-year old so the editor called her into the office to demonstrate her drawing ability. Proving her artistic talent she won first place which launched her career.

In 1892, when O’Neill was 18, her mother sold the family cow to send her to New York to seek work as an illustrator. That seems pretty adventurous for a female even today. She stayed with the Sisters of St. Regis who accompanied her on her sales calls. She sold her illustrations to Colliers, Life, and Harpers. She became the first female staff artist at Puck Magazine.

A year after she had moved to New York, Rose visited her family’s new home in the remote Missouri Ozarks. It took two days by wagon to get from Springfield, Missouri to the O’Neill homestead. In her autobiography, Rose recalled, “The next day we went deeper and deeper into the thick woods. I forgot my fears and shouted with joy. I called it the “tangle” and my extravagant heart was tangled in it for good.” Today Springfield is less than an hour away via excellent roads.

Over the years she sent money to her family for the construction of their 14-room Ozark home that she named Bonniebrook because of the little stream that ran along side the family’s house. Even today it is nestled among the “tangles” with the little stream bubbling past.

Bonniebrook burned to the ground in 1947 but it has been rebuilt, the grounds resurrected, with a museum and gift shop added. The museum houses hundreds of dolls and other memorabilia of O’Neill and her era, along with artifacts pertinent to her life and Bonniebrook.

The Kewpies made their debut in the 1909 Christmas issue of The Ladies Home Journal. It was quickly followed by a Kewpie comic strip and paper dolls. A German company produced the Kewpie Dolls and soon they were on everyone’s Christmas wish list. Adults wanted them, too. An amazing variety of items from doorknockers to tea sets sported the adorable Kewpies. The doll is mentioned in Anne Frank’s diary, in Steinbeck’s Of Mice and Men, was included in the 1939 New York World Fair’s time capsule, and Jell-O used the Kewpie Doll to promote their product.

O’Neill was also involved in the fight for Women’s Rights. In referring to the constricting Victorian women’s clothing she said, “The first step is to free women from the yoke of modern fashions and modern dress. How can they hope to compete with men when they are boxed up tight in the clothes that are worn today?” Some of her cartoons supporting women’s rights included Kewpie Dolls.

According to O’Neill she portrayed the Kewpie as doing good deeds in a funny way because “The world needs to laugh or at least smile more than it does.”

Visiting the Virgin Mary's House in Turkey

2010-12-31T17:03:00.000-08:00

Several years ago John and I traveled around Israel. In Nazareth we visited the Basilica of the Annunciation where, according to scriptures, the Angel Gabriel appeared to the Virgin Mary. Just a few feet away we went to the Church of St. Joseph that was built on the site of his carpentry shop. In Jerusalem we walked the Via Dolorosa which is believed to be the way Jesus walked from the Roman Judgement Hall to Calvary. Prayers were said at the 14 Stations of the Cross. There were many other sites significant to the Christian religion in both Nazareth and Jerusalem. On our last day in Israel we went to Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity. I thought we had visited all the important Christian holy sites so I was surprised to hear that the House of the Virgin Mary was in Turkey.

I had never really thought about Mary’s life after the death of Jesus. Before Jesus died he asked the apostle John to take care of his mother. Therefore Mary went with John when he went to Ephesus to preach and write.

The story that led to locating Mary’s House is quite amazing. It is told that in the early 1800s, a bedridden German nun, Anna Katherina Emmerich, had visions that included the story of the Virgin Mary and her years after the death of Jesus. When the persecution of Christians increased she traveled to Ephesus with John and lived in a small stone house John built for her on the hillside above the city of Ephesus. Emmerich’s visions were recorded in a book, which was later read by others who went in search of Mary’s house. The book was very detailed making locating the site fairly easy. Plus, according to our guide, for generations the people who lived near Ephesus had venerated the area as Mary’s House long before people came in search of it. Archeological work on the site showed that there was indeed a building on that spot 2000 years ago that met the description described by Emmerich. Pope Paul VI unofficially authenticated the site during his visit in 1967.

Today on the quiet hillside, with a view of the valley below, the small stone house has been rebuilt with a chapel and small side room, again based on Emmerich’s narrative. Nearby is a fountain where people believe the water is holy and also a wall with hundreds of white pieces of cloth tied to it where people make a wish.

Mary’s House is a place of pilgrimage visited by thousands of tourists every year - Christian and Moslems alike. The Moslems revere her as Mother Mary, the mother of the Prophet Jesus.

Located in Western Turkey on the Aegean Sea, Ephesus was one of the important cities in ancient Greece and Rome. John and I walked down the Marble Way that was once lined with white marble statues and found it amazing that it is the same road trod upon by Cleopatra, Anthony, the apostles Peter and John, and the Virgin Mary.

Even in ruins Ephesus is impressive with a huge amphitheater and a beautiful library that protected 12,000 scrolls from the heat and humidity. I am always amazed at places in antiquity that had public baths, water, drainage systems, and other “civilized” conveniences that Americans and Europeans did not have two hundred years ago.

A Luxurious Stay at Turning Stone Resort and Casino

2010-12-13T10:43:00.000-08:00

So many times John and I have searched far and wide for interesting places to visit only to find a world-class destination close to home. Each year we visit family in Las Vegas but there is a Vegas-style casino in nearby Verona. Sometimes we are fortunate to enjoy a stay at a luxurious Peninsula or Conrad hotel but discovered The Lodge at the Turning Stone Resort and Casino is an all-suite AAA Four-Diamond award-winning hotel. It can be the ultimate relaxing getaway but it is only steps across an enclosed walkway to the gaming part of the resort.

Staying at The Lodge and visiting the Ska:na Spa makes for a luxurious getaway. John and I chatted with a couple from NYC while relaxing in the Lodge’s Great Room. They had just arrived from New York City and said, “We are so happy we discovered Turning Stone. When our life in the city gets too stressful we come to decompress at the Spa. There are great spas in New York but they don’t have this beautiful view.” The view from The Lodge and the landscaping of the entire resort is beautiful.

Ska:an Spa is unique in that it includes treatments using Native American herbs, treatments and cultural themes along with a full-service salon, co-ed mineral pool, soaking tubs, steam room, sauna, a VIP suite, a couple's treatment room, and theSpa Café. Their unique and traditional Native American Sweat Lodge was closed for the season – maybe the next time. The Turning Stone also has a lovely day spa – The Ahsi Day Spa and Salon.

While John and I were dining at The Lodge’s Wildflowers Restaurant we overheard two couples at the next table chatting. They were from Rochester and The Lodge is where they celebrate their anniversaries each year. The service and menu made it easy to see how the Wildflowers Restaurant earned the coveted AAA Four-Diamond honor.

The resort has wonderful places to dine. I had one of the best Asian meals ever at Peach Blossom. Next time I want to try the Brazilian restaurant, Rodizio, a churrascaria, which is a must for all carnivores.

The Turning Stone is the venue for many big-name performers but the main stage was dark while we were there but no problem. We had a wonderful evening in the Leopard Lounge where a group played all the songs we knew – for free. Wished we lived closer so we could enjoy this type of free entertainment more often. There were even great musical acts mid-day. The Lava is a sophisticated, pulsating dance club. I took a peek and wished I was younger!

There is something for everyone regardless of budget. While The Lodge is their luxury accommodation is does not come with “New York City prices” as the couple from the Big Apple were quick to point out. Other lodging includes The Tower, the first thing visible when approaching the resort; The Hotel, the classic lodging; and off-site there is The Inn and The Villages RV Park.

There is more to Turning Stone than gaming, which is the main draw for some people but not everyone has to try their luck. The Sportplex is the resort’s luxurious indoor sports facility for racquetball and tennis. And, there is golf “where the pros play” and a dome with forty hitting stations. Truly a great CNY destination. For more information check turningstone.com or call 800-771-7711.

Christmas in Central New York

2010-11-14T08:09:00.000-08:00

Have a Dickens of a Christmas in Skaneateles or in Mexico. Skaneateles has been hosting the Dickens Christmas for 17 years. The celebration begins the day after Thanksgiving and runs every Saturday and Sunday through December 19th, from noon to 4 pm, and a limited show on Dec 24th (noon to 3). Not to be outdone, Christmas in Mexico NY is getting bigger and better every year. On Friday, December 3, the PTA is hosting a movie night with a showing of the “Muppet’s Christmas Carol.” Saturday there will be great shopping opportunities at local businesses and church bazaars. The library is hosting an open house and Gingerbread House Workshop. Visitors will enjoy live music at Washington Hall, horse and carriage rides, and a Christmas parade. Everyone is invited to be part of setting a Snow Angel record at 1:00 at the High School. On Sunday, December 5 a Christmas concert will be held at Wilcox Hall on Church Street.

It just isn’t Christmas without Gingerbread. The Erie Canal Museum in Syracuse will host their 25th Annual Gingerbread Gallery. Until January 2 visitors can view over 40 gingerbread creations forming a festive 1800's street scene. People who would like to learn how to make Gingerbread creations or for a family/friends-bonding activity River Edge Mansion in Pennellville offers gingerbread house classes as part of their cooking experiences. Each year since 2005 the Turning Stone Resort and Casino in Verona creates a Gingerbread Village. After weeks of baking gingerbread tiles and brick it takes workers one entire work to assemble the gingerbread village that includes a church, houses, and other luscious additions.

The Turning Stone is one place that really lights up for the holiday. All together there are over 15,000 lights on the 35-foot Emerald Lobby tree and the 50-foot outside tree. The beautiful Turning Stone property will dazzle visitors with over 300,000 lights and one million ornaments resort wide. Lights on Onondaga Lake –will celebrate their 21st season this year. Visitors can enjoy the two-mile drive until January 9 from 5- 10 pm. The drive includes animated scenes, a Victorian village, the Land of Oz, and other colorful displays.

Do you believe? Get on board the Adirondack Railroad at Union Station in Utica and travel to the North Pole on the Polar Express where everyone who believes will hear the bell. The popular storybook comes alive on the two-hour journey that includes a reading of the book, chocolate milk, and cookies along with a chance to see Santa. Children and adults alike are encouraged to wear their pajamas.

Santa’s Workshop at the North Pole on Whiteface Memorial Highway in Wilmington, NY, has been entertaining young and old since the 1940s. They offer special family weekend packages during the holiday season. The Peppermint Pig makes an excellent family holiday gift. The Peppermint Pig has been a Saratoga tradition since Victorian times. The solid Peppermint Pig comes with a little brass hammer. According to tradition after the holiday feast, with everyone sitting around the table, the Pig is cracked into many pieces with the special hammer. One at a time each family member picks up a peppermint piece, and tells about something nice that happened to them during the past year and make their wish for the coming year. The Peppermint Pig can be purchased from Saratoga Sweets or from Hart & Stone on Main Street in Mexico.

The Assassination of JFK - Revisited

2010-11-14T08:03:00.000-08:00

The assassination of President John F. Kennedy is one on those events that is permanently etched in my mind. People may not remember exactly what they did last Friday but they remember exactly what they were doing on Friday, November 22, 1963.

The days that followed were just as profound. We were all glued to our television sets. It has been said that, “Television came of age” that day. Today with CNN and 24-7 coverage on so many channels it hard to remember that there was a time when that was not the norm – most newscasts in 1963 were only 15 minutes long. For four days all other broadcasting and all commercials stopped. It was if the whole county had come to a standstill.

In the months and years that followed the story of the assassination took many twists and turns. At one point I thought if I read all the books printed on the event I could discern the truth. I finally gave up realizing that the story was so muddled I would not recognize the truth so I accepted the simple, official version – Lee Harvey Oswald was the lone assassin.

Recently John and I were in Dallas and the Texas Book Depository Museum was on my must-do list. It was on the sixth floor of the building where the city’s schoolbooks were stored that Oswald fired the shots that killed JFK. Most of the building now houses offices but the sixth floor has been turned into a museum. The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza has an excellent audio tour with photos and first person narratives of people associated with the assassination.

Using nearly 400 photographs, 45 minutes of documentary films, and artifacts, the exhibition recreates the social and political context of the early 1960s, chronicles the assassination and its aftermath, and recognizes Kennedy's lasting impact on American culture.

When Kennedy was elected his youthfulness and his young family symbolized a new era. After the assassination I recall college professors saying that when Kennedy was elected many of their colleagues quit they jobs and rushed to Washington to be part of the new era only to have their dreams dashed on November 22. But from the Kennedy years came the impetus for the Space Program, Civil Rights legislation, and the Peace Corp.

Much of the displays dealt with what I already knew such as the Conspiracy Theories and the Zapruder film. Having the details of Kennedy’s last hours and the steps the led Lee Harvey Oswald to that window in the Book Depository all in one place was riveting. And add to that Jack Ruby’s assassination of Oswald made all the exhibits mesmerizing. Especially impressive was the video presentation showing the national and international response to the assassination.

The museum did not awaken any of my former needs for definitive “answers” - and then I saw the sniper’s nest. The motorcade came down Houston Street. The view from the sniper’s window was unobstructed and with the motorcade moving at a slow pace there would have been plenty of time to aim and get off several shots. When the motorcade turned onto Elm Street the angle was more difficult plus there was a huge overhead sign and trees in the way making firing much more difficult. Why didn’t the assassin fire when the motorcade was on Houston Street?

Remembering our Veterans

2010-11-14T07:52:00.000-08:00

The National Mall is Washington is one of the best places to honor veterans of several wars. The Mall is the site of memorials to American men and women who served in World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War. A smaller memorial honors soldiers from the District of Columbia who served in World War I. The three newer war memorials are located between the Lincoln Memorial and the Washington Monument.

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial was dedicated in 1982 to honor all the U.S. service people of the U.S. armed forces who fought in the Vietnam War and in South East Asia, and those who went missing in action during the war. The memorial has three separate parts. The best-known is the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall, designed by Maya Lin, and made of two walls etched with the 58,267 names of the fallen soldiers in chronological order – with a few exceptions.

Also part of the memorial is The Three Soldiers statue. The statue was unveiled in 1984, two years after The Wall's completion. The three men are wearing Vietnam War era uniforms that could be from any branch of service and are carrying infantry weapons. Nearby is the third component – the Vietnam Women’s Memorial dedicated to American women who served in Vietnam, most of whom were nurses. The statue depicts three service women. The one looking up is called Hope, the one tending to the wounded soldier is called Charity and the one behind Charity is praying. She is called Faith.

The Korean War Veterans Memorial was dedicated in 1995 on the 42nd anniversary of the armistice that ended the war. Korean veterans always relate is how cold they were. Part of the memorial depicts a squad of soldiers on patrol. Even on a hot day they look cold coming through the scrubby trees in their windblown ponchos. The patrol has members of the Air Force, Army, Marines, and Navy from a variety of ethnic backgrounds. Another part of the memorial is a polished black granite wall that reflects the images of the patrol. A low granite ring lists the 22 countries of the United Nations that sent troops to South Korea. Numbers of those killed, wounded, missing in action, and held prisoner-of-war are etched in stone nearby. Opposite this counting of the war's toll another granite wall bears a message inlaid in silver: “Freedom Is Not Free.”

The newest war memorial, the massive World War II Memorial, was dedicated in 2004 to honor the 16 million who served in the armed forces during the war, the more than 400,000 who died, and all who supported the war effort from home. The Memorial has two 43-foot arches, representing the war's Atlantic and Pacific theaters. Fifty-six pillars represent the states, territories and the District of Columbia at the time of the war. Each of the 4,000 gold stars on a memorial wall represents 100 U.S. deaths in the war. The Circle of Remembrance Garden is enclosed by a two-foot high stone wall creating a place for people to remember all veterans.

A fourth memorial, dedicated in 1931, is the District of Columbia War Memorial inscribed with the names of 449 local citizens who lost their life during World War I. The memorials are very different in design but each is a poignant reminder of the sacrifice made my American servicemen and women.

Visiting Michigan's Third Coast

2010-11-08T10:22:00.000-08:00

John and I had never heard of the “Third Coast” until we planned to visit Harbor Country in Michigan. John had signed up to learn how to surf and paddleboard with Third Coast Surf Shop in New Buffalo. It was on his Bucket List. Surfing on a lake sounds so much safer and easier than surfing in an ocean – no rip tides or sharks. As we were flying over Lake Michigan, John looked down at the lake and commented, “I don’t see any surfers.” He had read in Outside magazine that it was one of the best places to learn to surf.

John’s Surfing 101 Group Lesson started with learning how to the carry the board from the transport vehicle to the beach. The easiest way is on the one’s back. It was fall time and the water was cold even though the weather was nice so he had to don a wet suit. On the beach the class learned the fundamentals of surfing and water safety. The group was instructed how to paddle out by laying on their stomach and how to stand up on the board once they caught a wave – that’s the tricky part. John walked the board out but a wave took it back into the shore so he had to walk to the shore to retrieve it. After several attempts at standing up on the board he found it more fun to ride the wave in on his stomach.

In the afternoon he was off for Stand UP Paddleboarding 101. We had never heard of this sport but I am sure it will show up in more places – places with flat, slow moving water. Paddle boarding started in Hawaii and is a growing sport. It is relatively easy to do with a little practice. The paddle board is essentially an oversized surfboard but a little wider and thicker. It is more stable than an average surfboard. And, it had with a small slot in the middle for easier carrying. Again in his wet suit he set out for a serene paddle on the Galien River near New Buffalo, Michigan. “I really enjoyed the quiet and scenery. A great way to explore a river or lake,” John shared his adventurous day with me while dining at the Stray Dog Bar & Grill.

But the water fun wasn’t over for John. The next day he was up at o’dark thirty to go fishing with Sea Hawks Charter on the St. Joseph River for Chinook salmon, Coho salmon, Steelheads, and Lake Trout with Capt. Clark. “I didn’t catch anything because it was between seasons but I really enjoyed being on the river. It was a beautiful fall day.” After lunch John was back on the Galien River with Ryan Gerard of Third Coast Surf Shop. “This was my favorite day,” John explained when we met up for an wonderful dinner that featured local produce at the Brentwood Tavern, the restaurant at Marina Grand, the sister property of the Harbor Grand where we were staying. “Nothing beats a peaceful day fishing or kayaking on a tranquil river in the fall.”

You might wonder what I was doing while John was having all this water fun. I had my own kind of fun visiting art galleries, local farms, and wineries. Phew, it was tough but someone had to do it!

Visiting Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri

2010-11-08T09:54:00.000-08:00

I always thought that succotash was cream corn with lima beans added by mothers to get their family to eat lima beans. It was never my favorite veggie. Then I went to Branson, Missouri and found an awesome version of succotash.

When I heard the Silver Dollar City was a theme park it did not make my heart beat faster because theme parks are not high on my to-do list. But, John and I loved Silver Dollar City. We didn’t go on any rides. In fact the rides are on the perimeter of the park and we didn’t even realize that there were rides. There is truly something for everyone of every age to do at the park.

The park grew around the entrance to Marvel Cave, which has drawn tourists since 1980. Touring the cave is not for the faint hearted. The 60-minute tour includes climbing over 600 steps. In 1960 the owners created the 1880s Ozark Mountain Village around the entrance to the cave based on the foundation of a genuine 1800s mining town of Marmaros. There is a flag raising ceremony every morning when the park opens for the day.

Many of the craftsmen are demonstrating in vintage buildings. There are an amazing number of people plying their crafts. It wasn’t possible to pass by the cinnamon buns the baker was just pulling out of the oven or the peanut brittle that has just cooled to the cracking stage. We bought lye soap from Martha Sudweeks who explained, “Lye soap was made from wood ash in the old day and got a bum rap because it was so harsh. The soap I make is milder but still retains its beneficial properties.” There were knife makers, glass blowers, candle makers, and the ever popular blacksmith.

There are over 40 live shows every day. John went to Silver Dollar City’s Opera House to see their original musical production “Headin’ West.” It was a tale of moving West in the 1860s including the perils along the way – buffalo stampedes, whitewater rapids, and other adventures. The show was free.

I went to the Culinary & Craft School where I learned how to make succotash the yummy way. Actually, it is a whole meal and as, Debbie Dance Uhrigh, a Master Craftsman of Culinary Arts explained, “This succotash can include whatever vegetables or meats that are available.”

Silver Dollar City’s Succotash
1 lb. lightly breaded okra
8 ounces frozen whole kernel corn
8 ounces yellow summer squash
8 ounces slice red potatoes – precook in an oven at 350 for 30 minutes
8 ounces diced pre-cooked chicken (or leftovers)
4 ounces sliced green peppers
4 ounces sliced onions
1 tsp. garlic power
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. salt
Butter-flavored vegetable oil as needed

Sauté onions and peppers in oil. Remove from skillet. Sauté chicken in same skillet with the oil. Remove after heating thoroughly. Sauté corn, squash, and potatoes in same skillet. Remove. Fry okra until golden brown. Add salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Add all the other ingredients to the skillet and heat to desired temperature. Serves four as a main dish.

John and I met up after the cooking lesson. John said, “Too bad you didn’t go to the show. You would have loved it!” But, I loved the cooking class. Can’t do everything. Branson and Silver Dollar City are definitely on our To-do List.

The Savory Spoon Cooking School in Door County, Wisconsin

2010-10-22T14:29:00.000-07:00

The Savory Spoon in Ellison Bay on Wisconsin’s scenic Door County offers a variety of excellent cooking experiences. The cooking school is located in an historic building that was a school in the late 1800s. The original school bell rings to start each class.

Chef Janice Thomas has more the 20 years experience and has studied at the Cordon Bleu in Paris and with well-respected chefs in France, Italy, and China. There are hands-on classes, demonstrations, tastings, and “field-to-fork” experiences. For more information log on to savoryspoon.com.

Coconut Soup With Shrimp
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. finely chopped ginger
1/8 tsp. red crushed pepper
3 cups chicken stock
2 cups unsweetened coconut milk
½ white wine
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. Asian chili sauce sambal olek

Place a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, garlic, peppers and ginger. Sauté until the garlic sizzles and turns white, then add the remaining soup broth ingredients. Bring to a low boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Prepare shrimp. Seed and chop the tomatoes.
Last Minute Additions:
20 large shrimp, shelled and cut in half
½ pound vine-ripened tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
1/3 fresh basil leaves or cilantro, chopped
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt to taste
8-10 button mushrooms, firm white and sliced thin
1 lime cut into wedges

Combine the cornstarch with an equal amount of cold water. Set aside. Chop basil or cilantro. Bring soup to a simmer. Stir the cornstarch mixture into the soup. Add the shrimp, tomatoes, and basil or cilantro. Simmer about 1 minute until shrimp turn pink and are cooked. Taste and adjust the seasoning, particularly for chili sauce, and salt. Stir in mushrooms. Turn into soup tureen or individual bowl.
Garnish with lime wedges and more chopped herbs.
Serves 8
Jade Asian Dumplings With Chile Ginger Sauce
1 ½ lbs Napa cabbage, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. salt
Place the chopped cabbage in a bowl with the 2 Tbsp. of salt and let it weep for 25 minutes. Rinse and spin dry cabbage.
Mix pork and all other ingredients together and add the dry, wilted cabbage. Set aside for flavors to blend for 20 minutes.
1 lb. ground pork or ground turkey
2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar
4 cloves garlic, pressed
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
3 Tbsp. sesame oil
2 Tbsp. fresh ginger, grated
1 tsp. orange zest
4 green onions, chopped finely
1 tsp. salt and a pinch of red pepper
1 tsp. sugar
1 egg
1 Package pot sticker wrappers

Place 1 Tbsp. mixture into the pot sticker wrapper and wet edges with water, fold in half and pinch together. Place dumpling on a floured cookie sheet and continue to make the rest. Place 2 Tbsp. peanut oil in a non- stick pan and heat to medium high. Place 8 dumplings in the pan and brown both sides about 2 minutes. Add 3 Tbsp. of water and cover and cook and steam for another 3 minutes. Remove the lid and brown the bottoms once again.
Ginger Sauce:
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 Tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tsp. sesame oil
1 Tbsp honey
1 Tbsp. chili sauce (more or less) Sambal Olek
¼ tsp. fresh ginger grated.
Mix dipping sauce ingredients in a small bowl and serve with dumplings.

Enjoy a drive around Lake Ontario

2010-10-22T14:12:00.000-07:00

Fall is a great time to slow down and take a driving trip. One of my favorite drives is around Lake Ontario. There are forts, falls, museums, lighthouses, sand dunes, and more.

From Rochester take the Lake Ontario State Parkway and continue on Route 18. The area is one of stunning views of Lake Ontario, orchards and many beautifully maintained cobblestone houses made from lake-washed stones. In Olcott visit the Lake Ontario lighthouse, a replica of the 1873 Olcott lighthouse that operated for 100 years. At Old Fort Niagara, located at the mouth of the Niagara River, living history presentations will bring a new appreciation for the important role the area played in the development of the United States.

Follow the Niagara Historic Trail south to Niagara Falls, stop on the way at Devil’s Hole and the Whirlpool to look at the swirling Niagara River. People come from all over the world to see Niagara Fall but New Yorkers often take them for granted.

To cross over into Canada one needs a passport or Enhanced Drivers License. The beautifully preserved Canadian village of Niagara-on-the-Lake has boutique shops and horse-drawn carriages trotting down the flower-lined streets.

Toronto is one of our favorite cities. Visit the fascinating Bata Shoe Museum and the baronial mansion of one of Toronto’s “well-heeled” – Casa Loma. When it was built in 1914 the telephone switchboard, used to communicate with the 98 rooms, had more daily activity than the entire city of Toronto. Built at a cost $3 million, the city of Toronto took it over for $27,305 in unpaid taxes 10 years after completion. Views of the city and gardens from the Norman Tower are beautiful. Another great view is from CN Tower with its glass-bottom floor. The multi-ethnicity of Toronto is reflected in its restaurants and Toronto theaters offer world-class presentations.

From Toronto take Macdonald–Cartier Freeway known at the 401. Stop for apple pie at the Big Apple near Coburg, where visitors can watch workers making the pies – over two million so far. Near Trenton drive along the Loyalist Parkway through Prince Edward County. Climb the dunes at Sandbanks Provincial Park for a view of the wide sweeping sandy beach and Lake Ontario. Another great viewpoint is from Lake on the Mountain. Mohawks offered gifts to the spirits of the lake because it is nearly 200 feet above Lake Ontario and receives a constant flow of fresh water with no apparent source. A ferry shortens the connection to Kingston.

The Loyalist highway ends in Kingston, the first Capital of the United Provinces of Canada. Strategically located where Lake Ontario meets the St. Lawrence, it is a gateway city to the famed 1000 Islands and all kinds of boating. Pick up on of the self-guided walking tour brochures of Historic Kingston and visit Fort Henry. Visit the Marine Museum and the Penitentiary Museum. The tour of City Hall is free and fascinating.

Ferries connect Kingston to Cape Vincent in the United States. Drive the Seaway Trail stopping in Sackets Harbor to visit the Seaway Trail Discovery Center and Sackets Harbor Battlefield to learn more about the War of 1812.

The trip, approximately 650 miles has something for everyone. Do the drive in segments or plan a week to really enjoy all the area around Lake Ontario has to offer. Fall is the perfect time for a driving trip.

Branson, Missouri is for music lovers

2010-10-18T19:03:00.000-07:00

I was surprised when I learned that Branson has more theater seats than New York’s Broadway District. It is an incredible destination for anyone who loves music. It is possible to attend a show every morning, afternoon and evening.

On the night of our arrival John and I went to hear the Oak Ridge Boys. They are the same Oak Ridge Boys that teamed up in the 1970s. They started as a Gospel group then reinvented themselves as country stars with their 1977 hit, “Y’All Come Back Saloon.” The show started with “The Boys Are Back” to the roaring approval of the crowd. The show included all their signature songs: “American Made,” “Elvira,” and “Sail Away.” At the end of “Touch a Hand, Make a Friend” we made friends with the people seated near us. It was a wonderful, upbeat introduction to Branson.

The next morning at 10 a.m. we were back in a theater. This time to see The Platters at the Starlight Theater. Oh, the memories that came flooding back upon hearing “My Prayer,” “Smoke Gets in Your Eyes,” and “The Great Pretender.” People were encouraged to dance on the small area in front of the stage or in the aisles, and they did. Even though they sounded just like I remembered I took a close look at them and quickly realized they could not be the original members. During intermission instead of taking a break The Platters come down off the stage and chatted with people. I found out that only one of the original Platters is still living and does not perform. It didn’t make any difference to me, or the rest of the audience, because the sound was the same.

The music continued during lunch at Mel’s Hard Luck Diner, home of Branson's original singing servers. Most of the staff are professional singers, song writers, and musicians who take turns singing and serving.

Then it was off hear The Twelve Irish Tenors that included a selection of Irish folk songs, opera numbers, modern rock classics, and pop with a special tribute to the Beatles and Barry Manilow. Of course, “Danny Boy” and “When Irish Eyes are Smiling” were our favorites.

Dining at Andy Williams Moon River Café didn’t have live singers but plenty of his music wafted through the restaurant and his gold and platinum records are on display above the bar. In the evening we went to see the Haygoods, an amazing family of seven boys and one girl. They claim that they did not come from a musical family but it was hard to believe as they play an amazing variety of instruments from the harp to drums to the saxophone. They have been performing together for 18 years and the youngest is 17. Their show is one of the most energetic we have ever seen.

Actually, there is more to do in Branson besides attending the theater. We also went hiking, boating, took the Ozark Zephyr Scenic Railway, visited museums, and spent the entire day at Silver Dollar City, a theme park par excellent with 100 artisans demonstrating their crafts, and 40 live shows daily.

There were a plethora of shows we did not have time to see. Branson is one of those places we would definitely like to revisit. New acts are added all the time. For more information check branson.com.

Visit Kingston, Ontario - The Limestone City

2010-10-05T17:37:00.000-07:00

Kingston is a wonderful place to visit. It is called the “Limestone City” because so many of their buildings are constructed of limestone. We decided to make the trip a circle drive so we crossed over the 1000 Island Bridge and headed west to Kingston returning home via the ferries to Cape Vincent. We stayed at the First Canada Inn located conveniently off Highway 401. The price was reasonable and parking, breakfast, and the Internet were gratis. The city bus stop is nearby but it was only a few minutes drive to the city center.

It is usually best to tour a city on Sundays or holidays because there is less traffic and often free on-street parking. Our first stop was the Visitor’s Center where the train that carried the body of Canada’s first Prime Minister home is adjacent to the Center and it is where the city trolley begins.

The Confederation Trolley Tour gave us an excellent overview of the city. The tour allowed us to stop and reboard at Bellevue, the home of John A. MacDonald, the first Prime Minister of Canada. Restored to the 1840s, and staffed by costumed interpreters, the house and gardens are kept much as they would have been during the time that Macdonald lived there with his wife and infant son. No matter how many historic homes I visit there is always something interesting to see and learn. The Italianate-style house has three floors but on seven levels. The wash tub shaped like a boot and covered so as to keep the water warm was especially unique.

After the trolley tour we had just enough time to drive to the Penitentiary Museum located in the former Warden's limestone residence. It is located across the street from the current prison, Canada's oldest penitentiary. Most amazing was the artistic creativity of the inmates and their ingenuity in developing escape plans. If only those traits had been properly channeled. One of the docents was a former guard and shared, “Some of the inmates just could not deal with the outside world and after they were released they were returned. They were glad to be back.”

A visit to the Cathedral of St. George pointed out a Central New York connection. A plaque on the wall told about Molly Brant, sister of Joseph Brant whose statue is at Mexico Point Park. Because the Brants were loyalists during the American Revolution they moved to Canada. Molly bridged the gap between the Indian and white cultures. Molly and her children by Sir William Johnson were key members in the founding of the church with Molly being the only female founder.

We stayed three nights, which turned out to be perfect. We really enjoyed the luncheon cruise on the St. Lawrence that included information on the area interspersed with music. There were many great homes and camps along the shore We were duly impressed by the new multi-million dollar mansion built by an American from Watertown whose wealth came from those green pine tree deodorizers that dangle from car rear view mirrors.

We also visited the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes. The Alexander Henry, an icebreaker, is in the adjacent dry dock. It is being renovated and may be reopened next season as a B&B. That is where I would like to stay on our next visit.

Visit Singer Castle in New York's 1000 Islands

2010-10-05T17:24:00.000-07:00

Now there are two castles to explore in the 1000 Islands. The newest castle open to the public is Singer Castle on Dark Island. Built in 1905 by Frederick Bourne, president of Singer Sewing Machine Company, the castle’s design was based on the book “Woodstock” by Sir Walter Scott. True to the book the five-story castle has underground tunnels, secret passageways, and a turret dungeon.

John and I took the Singer Castle tour offered by Uncle Sam Boat Tours. On the hour ride to Dark Island we saw four ships. The guide explained the difference between a salty and a laker. A salty is an ocean-going ship that enters the Great Lakes through the St. Lawrence. They are required to have a certified pilot aboard for the duration of their trip on the lakes and are usually referred to as ships. Whereas a “laker” stays within the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence and is usually called a boat. The vessels are huge and it was impressive to see them gliding by us.

On the trip we passed Manhattan Island so named because it was purchased for about the same price that Peter Minuit paid the local natives for Manhattan Island in 1624 and Oak Island where the granite for Boldt Castle was quarried.

When we arrived on Dark Island we were divided into small groups for the fascinating 45-minute tour. We entered the Great Hall with knights of armor and sewing machines on display. As I peered into the secret stairway next to the wine cellar the guide explained that the secret passages actually served three purposes. They were true to Scott’s book, provided a way for the staff to serve the family and their quests unobtrusively, and provided a place for the wiring and piping to be threaded throughout the building. The secret passages are not the only unique aspect of Singer Castle.

Along with the to-be-expected dining room, library, and other rooms is the Sport Therapy Room where Marjorie Bourne Thayer, the youngest daughter of Frederick Bourne and an excellent athlete, would relax under the administrations of her personal masseuse. Most interesting is the incandescent light bath that was promoted as a curative to many ailments. At every turn there are interesting things to see and stories to learn.

Singer Castle was built during a time when people who had money were extremely wealthy and the American millionaires wanted to be given the same respect as the landed gentry of Europe. The elite of Europe had money and castles, the Americans had the money but no castles. So they built their own castles.

After the castle tour we headed back toward Alex Bay and learned more about the 1000 Islands. Actually there are over 1800 islands in the archipelago. To be classified as an island it must be out of the water 365 days a year, have one tree and some other vegetation.

The boat tour also stopped at Boldt Castle. We have been to Boldt Castle several times over the years and what as been accomplished over the years is impressive. The entry hall has a magnificent staircase with a beautiful stained glass ceiling. Now there is an elevator to the upper floors so the castle is handicap accessible.

We stayed at Capt. Thomson’s Resort and dined out – out on our room’s balcony while watching the harbor activity.

Take Your Brain on Vacation - Visit a Museum

2010-10-05T17:14:00.000-07:00

Take your brain on vacation – visit a museum. On Saturday, September 25, H. Lee White Marine Museum, the Mexico Museum and Casey’s Cottage at Mexico Point Park will participate in the Smithsonian Magazine’s sixth annual Museum Day. They will join over 1,300 museums and cultural institutions across the United States, the District of Columbia, and Puerto Rico who will be opening their doors free to those who present a coupon downloaded from the Smithsonian’s Museum Day Web site.

No matter where you find yourself on September 25 you are sure to be near a participating museum or venue. Visit www.smithsonian.com/museumday to learn more about the program and to download the coupon. Visitors who present the coupon gain free admission for two people at participating museums and cultural venues. One ticket is permitted per household, per email address.

On September 25, the Mexico Historical Society’s Museum will hold an Open House from 10 to 3. The Mexico Museum tells the story of the Mexico area and recently the Museum took on a new look with all new displays.

And, Casey’s Cottage at Mexico Point Park will be open from 2 to 5. Casey’s Cottage was a carriage house for Mexico Point Inn that was transformed into an 11th century manor house by Dr. William Casey, a professor of sociology at Columbia University, and Severin Bishof, an artist of note. The walls, floors and ceilings have carvings, etchings, and quotes from the 11th century.

Also participating is the H. Lee White Marine Museum in Oswego detailing the maritime history of the Central New York. Centerpiece of the Marine Museum's holdings is the National Historic Landmark veteran of the WWII Normandy Invasion, the U.S. Army LT-5 tugboat. The Museum also maintains two floors of rooms that showcase a fascinating array of nautical artifacts from the 18th through the 20th centuries.

The Smithsonian Institution is the world’s largest museum and research complex consisting of 19 museums and galleries, the National Zoological Park and nine research facilities. Approximately 30 million people from around the world visited the Smithsonian in 2009.

To my way of thinking any day is a good day to visit a museum. Museums have been around since ancient times. They are wonderful repositories of history, art and culture. There is always something to learn. One of the oldest museums was in Alexandria in Egypt that included the famous Library of Alexandria. Private individuals started most early museums with entrance allowed at the whim of the owner. Like today they were repositories of history, art and literature.

The first museums that allowed public access opened in Europe during the 1700s, the Age of Enlightenment. One of the earliest museums was the Royal Armory in the Tower of London that opened in 1660, followed by other museums in major cities across Europe. However, access for the public was often limited with permission sometimes difficult to obtain.

During what is called the Age of Museums from the late 19th century to the earliest 20th century there was a boom in museum building. Today everyone lives within a short drive of a museum. There are museums dedicated to one specific topic like the Jell-O Museum in LeRoy and those like the Smithsonian that cover all facets of human culture. While admission to some of the larger museums is expensive they often offer free admission on specific days or evenings. Most have reduced rates for families, seniors and groups.

Learning about the Holocaust in Dallas and Oswego

2010-09-29T09:26:00.000-07:00

When John and I were in Dallas we visited the Holocaust Museum. The museum depicts the events on April 19, 1943, in three locations: Belgium, Warsaw, and Bermuda. By doing so they present different responses to the Holocaust. In Belgium three young men derailed a deportation train loaded with Jewish people bound for Auschwitz and set them free. Meanwhile the Jewish residents of the Warsaw Ghetto rose up in revolt while British and American government officials met in Bermuda to discuss the refugee problem in Nazi-occupied countries but took no action.

The Dallas Holocaust Museum/Center for Education and Tolerance teaches about the past, to learn for today, in order to impact the future. I was impressed with the small museum and especially with Mike Jacobs, a survivor whose positive attitude had a lot to do with his survival. He survived Auschwitz (Poland), Birkenau (Poland) and Mathausen-Gusen II (Austria). Americans liberated him from Mathausen-Gusen II on May 5, 1945. Jacobs was one of the founders of the museum dedicated to the memory of the 11 million souls - 6 million Jews and 5 million non-Jews - who perished at the hands of the Nazis from 1939-1945.

The museum’s Upstander Program challenges people to stand up for what is right and not be a bystander. The sign at the entrance quotes Albert Einstein. “The World is too dangerous to live in – not because of the people who do evil, but because of the people who sit and let it happen.”

If there is a “Finest Hour” dealing with the Holocaust I think it is Oswego’s Safe Haven, another one of the unsung nuggets of history.

The Roosevelt administration chose to ignore the plight of refuges in 1943 but in 1944, with the tide of the war turning the Allies' way, President Roosevelt made a symbolic gesture. His Secretary of the Interior, Harold Ickes, sent Special Assistant Ruth Gruber to Italy to bring nearly 1,000 war refugees to America. Of the 982 men women and children who were selected, Gruber said, "The government officials making the selection chose families and survivors with skills that could help run a camp in America. The first priority was refugees who had been in concentration camps and escaped." Each person selected had to sign an agreement that they would leave the United States when the war was over.

It took the group two weeks to cross the ocean on the army troop transport, the “Henry Gibbons.” There was a great deal of apprehension about what was in their future. Ivo Lederer said that upon seeing the Statue of Liberty, "I don't think there was a dry eye on deck."

Exhibits tell of life in the camp. Even though they were once again behind barbed wire the children attended the local school, they organized concerts and had educational programs for adults.

Even though many of the refugees had relatives in the US and offers of jobs, they had no legal status so the government was in a quandary over what to do with them when the war was over. The refugees were loaded on buses and went across the Rainbow Bridge to Canada where they reentered the U.S. legally and dispersed across the U.S. to become doctors, engineers, and other professionals.

2010-09-11T07:05:00.000-07:00

I love Vietnamese food so when John and I were in Saigon we attended a cooking class at the Vietnam Cooking Center. It turned out to be a good choice and excellent value. During the three-hour class we learned about Vietnamese culture, how to make several recipes, and it ended with a lunch of the food we cooked – all for $39 USD per person.

The class started out with Ms. Nhu, the interpreter, explaining the various ingredients, spices, and fruits typically used in preparing Vietnamese meals such as dragon fruit and tamarind. We learned about the Kitchen Gods, which are found in all traditional Vietnamese kitchens. It is believed that these gods observe everything that takes place during the year. At the end of the lunar year during the Tet festival, which occurs in late January or early February, the gods depart to make their report to Ngoc Hoang, the Jade Emperor, the supreme divinity of the Taoist Heaven. During that time the Kitchen Gods are offered the best food and spices and are presented with gifts of money and clothing.

During the class we prepared several recipes including Caramel Pork in Clay Pot, an everyday dish in the south of Vietnam, and Sweet Green Bean Soup with Seaweed, which is a typical dessert and even though it may not sound wonderful – it is!
Caramel Pork in Clay Pot
1 1/2 lbs pork tenderloin, cubed in 1 inch pieces
1 /2 tbsp cooking oil
1 tbsp fish sauce
3 tsp sugar
1 /2 tsp powdered chicken bouillon
1/ 2 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp chopped shallots
1 tsp chopped scallions
1-inch long red or green chili chopped
1 cup water
1 small whole green or red chili for garnish
1 tbsp chopped scallion greens for garnish
Marinate pork in a mixture of oil, fish sauce, 2 tsps sugar, chicken powder, pepper, shallots, scallions and chili for 30 minutes. Soak the clay pot in water for 5 minutes to avoid breaking on the stove but any pot will do. Make a caramel syrup by putting oil in a second pot over medium heat, add 1 tsp sugar, and cook, stirring frequently till it dissolves and is golden brown. Remove from heat. In the clay pot add marinated pork and 1-2 tsp of caramel syrup. Cook until the sauce is boiling, stirring frequently. Pour water into the pot and cook until the mixture is boiling again. Reduce heat and simmer until sauce has thickened. Remove from stove, garnish with a chili and scallions. Serve with rice. Serves 2-3.

Sweet Green Bean Soup and Seaweed
1 /2 cup mung beans (substitute soy beans, chickpeas, or yellow lentils) soak for
1 hour
1 cup water
1-2 tbsp sugar
1/ 2 tsp salt
2 oz seaweed, washed and julienned (substitute dry ear mushrooms – soak for 30
minutes and julienned)
2 oz canned coconut milk
After the beans have soaked for one hour, cook in 1 cup of water for 15-20 minutes until tender. To the beans add salt and sugar, more or less to one’s preference. Add seaweed and stir 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat, pour into serving bowls, and add 1/ 2 tbsp of coconut milk to each serving, and it is ready to enjoy. Another option is to serve it cold by pouring the mixture over crushed ice. Serves 2.

Touring Ephraim, Wisconsin

2010-09-11T06:57:00.000-07:00

n 1853 Norwegian Moravians settled the picturesque village of Ephraim in the heart of the Door County Peninsula. Ephraim’s heritage has been carefully preserved in more than 30 historical sites throughout the village, 11 are on the National Register of Historic Places.

John and I took a tour of the pretty village in a tram that had a vintage-vehicle look. The tour included the schoolhouse. I spent many years in the classroom and with school starting next week I was reminded of the things that have changed through the years. The schoolhouse in Ephraim is typical of many one-room schoolhouses. One of the other visitors asked the “teacher” how the children got to school to which the teacher replied, “They walked.” “Even in the winter?” responded the visitor. “Yes, of course they walked.” To her horror I added, “In most districts one-room schoolhouses were built so no student had to walk more than five miles one way.”

The conversation made me realize that some parents and children have a hard time envisioning a time when everyone walked to school – both ways but obviously not uphill both ways. I think that is one of the benefits of visiting historical villages. We learn how things have changed and become more appreciative of what we have even if we hanker for a simpler time.

Ephraim’s Pioneer Schoolhouse was built in 1880 and was in use until 1948. Typical of all similar schools there was a water pail and dipper from which everyone drank. Again the visitor beside me who no doubt always has antiseptic lotion handy pointed out, “That would spread disease.”

Most school still have blackboards which were actually boards that were painted black but now schools have white boards and Smart Boards. The Pioneer School owes its existence to Helen Sohn who taught many years at the school. When she heard the school was going to be torn down she organized a group to save it. We all owe a lot to people who take the initiative to save local landmarks.

Later in the day we noticed a group of youngsters dressed in pioneer outfits walking along the street. We met up with them at the 1858 Anderson Store that was family-operated until 1958. Today it is both a museum and store. The students had a list of typical items needed for the “family.” They were part of a weeklong educational program living the pioneer life. I wonder if they could imagine living in one-room log cabin located next to the Pioneer Schoolhouse that was home to a family of seven.

We have visited schools in many countries. In some countries there is a wide range of school facilities. In Yangon, Myanmar we went to a school where American students would feel right at home. It had signs in English that said “Happy Valentine’s Day” and “Don’t Run in the Halls.” But we also visited a school in a remote part of the Myanmar where the classroom was a three-sided building with bamboo walls. But, some things are the same the world over regardless of the time period. Students must pay attention to the teacher and do their work.

Visiting historic villages helps to puts things in perspective and makes me appreciate what I have today.

Visit Toronto see the Terra Cotta Army

2010-09-11T06:48:00.000-07:00

After 2000 years the amazing Terra Cotta Warriors once again saw the light of day in 1974 when farmers near Xian, China accidentally discovered them. Now several of the warriors are on display at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. I had always wanted to see the Terra Cotta soldiers and even though John and I have been to China a couple of times we have never been to Xian. China is usually considered the third largest country in the world after Russia and Canada. Xian was too far from the coastal cities we visited so we were excited to learn we could see the Terra Cotta Warriors in Toronto.

The Terra Cotta Warriors are amazing. And, to think they are 2000 years old and are in such excellent shape. The Chinese Terra Cotta Warriors were discovered when farmers in northern China unearthed fragments of a terra cotta figure while drilling for water near the city of Xian. It turned out to be one of the greatest archeological finds in history.

In 209 BCE the Terra Cotta Army was buried with Ying Zheng, the First Emperor of Qin, to help him rule in the afterlife. Construction of his mausoleum, which began in 246 BCE involved 700,000 workers. It is estimated that the Terra Cotta Army is made up of 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses, the majority of which are still buried in the three discovered pits. Besides soldiers, chariots, horses, there are acrobats, strongmen, and musicians. One incredible aspect of the army is that no two soldiers are exactly alike. The historian of the time recorded that besides his army, the Emperor of Qin was buried with palaces, utensils and other objects he would need in the afterlife.

China's Terracotta Warriors will be on display at The Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto until January 2, 2011. It is the largest collection of artifacts related to the warrior emperor ever displayed in North America and includes 10 life-sized terracotta figures from the pits of the First Emperor's Terracotta Army.

The ROM, as the Royal Ontario Museum is affectionately called, has displays tracing key moments in history before, during and after the lifetime of Ying Zheng. The exhibition is showcasing over 250 artifacts from the first millennium BCE. Nearly a third of the artifacts on display have never been shown outside of China, and some have never been publicly displayed anywhere, making the ROM's exhibition even more remarkable.

The Terra Cotta Warriors are often called the eighth wonder of the world. In 1987 the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) added the site to the official list of World Heritage Sites.

While at the ROM make time for their other fascinating exhibits that range from dinosaurs to ancient civilizations to contemporary displays. The ROM, Canada’s largest museum of history and culture, is immediately recognizable by the Lee-Chin Crystal addition to the front of the museum.

John and I stayed at the InterContinental Hotel on Bloor Street, which is across the street from the ROM. After visiting the Terra Cotta Warriors we were hungry for dim sum and as luck would have it there was a Chinese restaurant not far from the hotel. Actually there were several Asian restaurants nearby – such is the diversity of Toronto.

Detroit's Woodward Dream Cruise

2010-09-11T06:42:00.000-07:00

During the summer I see more and more shiny classic cars of the 50s and 60s on the roadway. When John and I were in Detroit, Michigan John was introduced to a Detroit phenomenon – the Woodward Dream Cruise. It included a ride along Woodward Ave in a classic car. What started as a fundraiser for a soccer field in 1995 has become America’s largest one-day automotive event. The annual event is held the third Saturday in August.

This year on August 21 more than 1.5 million people and 40,000 classic cars from around the world will recreate the 1950s and 1960s along Woodward. The Dream Cruise takes place along a 16-mile stretch of the legendary Woodward Avenue through eight host communities including Berkley, Bloomfield Hills, Bloomfield Township, Ferndale, Huntington Woods, Pleasant Ridge, Pontiac and Royal Oak.

In 1909 Detroit’s Woodward Avenue became the world’s first concrete highway in response to demands for smoother roads by bicyclists and early auto owners. Today, those yearning for the days of drive-ins, bobby socks, and wanting to create their own American Graffiti and Happy Days scenes will find it along Woodward Ave during the Dream Cruise. Hop in your classic car and cruise. There are no fees to drive in the Woodward Dream Cruise or to watch the cruise. Anyone can participate.

Today, just as it was then, the real attraction is the cars. There are hot rods and muscle cars and convertibles and hard tops along with those with oversized tires and custom-painted flames. These marvels of machinery are still “cool” street machines as they cruise along Woodward emanating vintage rock and roll from the AM radio coupled with the rumble of a big block V8.

GM, Ford and Chrysler—The Big Three—all have roots tied to Woodward Avenue. In the cruisin’ era legends grew as the Big Three tested their prototypes on Woodward including the popular the Pontiac’s GTO, Chrysler’s Hemi cars, and Ford’s Mustang. The tradition continues to this day including the latest versions of the Mustang GT, Chevy Camaro and Dodge Charger. They have all made their presence known at the Woodward Dream Cruise.

After the Dream Cruise visit the Henry Ford Museum, the nation’s largest indoor-outdoor history museum. According to the founder, Henry Ford, “I am collecting the history of our people as written into things their hands made and used....” See JFK’s presidential limousine, Lincoln’s rocker from Ford’s Theater, and Edison’s laboratory.

Adjacent to The Henry Ford Museum, Greenfield Village is a collection of nearly one hundred historical buildings in a village setting. Travel through the seven historic districts by train, Model T, horse pulled omnibus or on foot. Watch costumed interpreters conduct daily chores and craftsmen create their wares.

Learn where America’s love for the automobile started. The Ford Piquette Avenue plant is largely unchanged from its original 1904 appearance where the first 12,000 Tin Lizzies were built. Tour the River Rouge Plant and Dearborn Truck Plant, a working automobile factory, where Ford has built cars since the Model A.

Visit the Cotswolds-style Edsel and Eleanor Ford House beautifully situated on Lake St. Clair to learn about the family that contributed to the cultural growth of Detroit and the auto industry.

We were impressed by all the great attractions in the Motor City including the Motown Historical Museum, Detroit Institute of Art, and the Charles Wright Museum of African American History. For more information check www.visitdetroit.com or call 800-DETROIT.

Enjoy a Boat Ride on the Oneida River

2010-08-31T18:02:00.000-07:00

John and I often joke that, “If we didn’t live in Central New York we would have to visit.” We recently had the perfect CNY day. On a sunny Saturday we went to Brewerton and boarded the Mystere riverboat for a sightseeing cruise on the Oneida River.

The 90-minute cruise started out with a long, loud horn blast to alert other boaters that we were getting underway. With Captain Jeff Pyle at the helm, the Mystere cruised up the canalized Oneida River pass a lighthouse. Strangely it never occurred to me that there would be lighthouses on the canal. It is amazing how different Central New York looks from a waterway. Along the river there are a variety of buildings from camps to McCamps to year-round homes. There were also a variety of watercrafts from a cabin cruiser out of Portland, Oregon to pontoon boats to jet skis. The speed limit is 10 miles per hour so it was a relaxing ride. We locked through Lock 24 where on some of the Mystere cruises passengers can debark for a tour of the lockmaster’s house.

Captain Jeff shares his knowledge of the area including the fact that the current lockmaster is the third generation of his family to man the locks. The lockmasters have a yearly competition to see who has the best looking lock area. It is easy to see why Lock 23 usually wins. We have locked through in many places in many parts of the world but it is always interesting and fun.

The Mystere was built in Baldwinsville and plied the waters of the Fulton Chain out of Old Forge for many years. An interesting fact shared by Jeff was that the Mystere is not able to return to its birthplace in Baldwinsville because of the low bridges between Brewerton and Baldwinsville. There were several reasons for low bridges on the canal. One was because farmers who had fields on both sides of the canal had to build their own bridges so they built them as low as possible. A reason I had never had never heard before had to do with the tussle between land haulers and river haulers of goods. Water transportation is the cheapest but those who transported goods by land were able to get some of the bridges built at a height that kept some of the river transports from continuing on.

After we returned to Brewerton we crossed the bridge in the hope of visiting the Block House but it wasn’t open. We had a late lunch on deck of the Calypso Cay Restaurant and continued to enjoy the beautiful day. It was from that deck that we first saw the Mystere on the opposite side of the river and vowed to take the trip. It was a wonderful relaxing CNY day. Once again I am amazed at how many local people never heard about the cruise; however, there were people from Maine and Connecticut on our cruise.

The Mystere runs several cruises from Thursday to Sunday from May to October. Some are dinner or lunch cruises others have a theme such as Ladies Only Casino Night. The sightseeing cruise is only $15 and they have a family rate. For more information call 315-934-4157 or log on to seawaynavigationandtours.com. Some times nothing beats a day in Central New York!

Door County, Wisconsin is the Cape Cod of the Midwest

2010-08-30T15:43:00.000-07:00

It is my impression that when New Yorkers think of places to go during the summer their thoughts turn to destinations in the New England area thus missing out on all the wonderful places to enjoy in the Midwest. Door County is that pinkie-like peninsula that sticks out into Lake Michigan. We have been to Door County twice. The first time was in the late fall when it was very quiet and many of the places had closed for the season. This time we visited in early summer when everything was open and the difference is amazing. Actually we usually prefer places in the off-season but Door County does not feel crowded even in high season and there are many wonderful things to do.

We stayed at the secluded Gustave’s Getaway Cabin located in the middle of the peninsula with easy access to all the attractions. Built in 1887 it was once the family’s homestead but has been remodeled to include all the modern conveniences. Even the family cast iron cook stove now has glass top cooking burners.

During the day we explored the area’s parks with beautiful beaches, great biking trails, and historic lighthouses. Whitefish Dunes State Park along with a beautiful beach and small museum has a Native American display of pre-contact wigwams. The area had eight Native American villages dating from 100 BC until the 1800s. At the nearby Cave Point County Park I had to resist the urge to jump in and explore the caves along the water’s edge. Oh, to be a kid again.

One morning we had breakfast at the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek. If you watch the “America’s Best Breakfast” challenge you may recall that it won with their Cherry Cream Cheese stuffed French Toast with real maple syrup. Truly to die for! I am sure they took the calories out first! We toured the Noble House, Fish Creek’s oldest frame house dating from 1875. Later we rode the narrated Trolley Tour that stopped at the limestone bluffs for a view of Green Bay and the islands. Our boat tour on the “Shoreline” made me hanker for a summer home on a lake – any lake.

There is something to please everyone. John went to the Door County Marine Museum where he learned more about the area’s shipbuilding history, watched a video called “Job Well Done,” and got a view of Sturgeon Bay through a sub’s working periscope. Meanwhile I spent time shopping at some of the galleries and visited the Peninsula Art School. I am always amazed at people’s creativity. One artist, Erika Simmons, created a portrait of Jimi Hendrix out of audio tapes and one of Audrey Hepburn out of movie film.

John and I love theatrical performances and Door County has presentations every night of the week. The Peninsula Players Theatre in Fish Creek is America’s oldest professional resident summer theatre. We laughed during “Heroes,” a comedy about three dotty old men in a veteran’s hospital plotting break out. At the American Folklore Theatre we loved “Cheeseheads the Musical.” It was great fun as the workers in a cheese factory think about what they will do with their lotto winnings. It was laced with Wisconsin humor much to the great delight of Wisconsin residents who rose up and cheered at one point. Made me want to move to Wisconsin!

Visit Wonderful Toronto

2010-08-30T15:21:00.000-07:00

Toronto is a great city. There are excellent museums and great places to eat. Dining out in such a multi-ethnic city is fun. The first night we had dinner at the Sultan’s Tent where dining areas are set up like tents with filmy curtains separating one area for another – and there was a belly dancer. We learned that belly dancing was not entertainment designed for men but for women. In many parts of the world it was used to show women how to strengthen and roll their abdominal muscles in preparation for childbirth. Throughout much of history men were not even allowed to watch.

The food was excellent. One of the appetizers called B’stila was so delicious it could have been served as a dessert. It is a classic Moroccan pastry stuffed with chicken, eggs, almonds, caramelized onions and saffron sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Yummy.

There is so much to do that three days wasn’t nearly long enough. We like city bus tours because it provides a nice overview. We stayed at the InterContinental Hotel on Bloor Street and the Gray Line hop-on bus stopped out front.

Down the street from the InterContinental is the Bata Shoe Museum. I like one-topic museums. Shoes are a reflection of the times and culture. On display showed the tiny shoes worn by females who had bound feet.

“On a Pedestal,” one of the special exhibits, features Renaissance Chopines which are basically platform shoes considered one of the most extreme forms of footwear ever worn in the Western world. Beautiful fabrics of the 1400s were so expensive that to show off one’s wealth women wanted their dresses to be as long as possible so they wore platform shoes to add inches to their dresses. The tallest chopines come from Venice with some measuring near 20 inches in height. Amazing what we do to be fashionable.

The CN Tower, one of the world’s tallest towers, is Toronto’s icon. In 1995, the 1,815.4 foot-CN Tower was classified as one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World by the American Society of Civil Engineers. The views from the platforms are truly spectacular but it is the glass floor that gets the most attention. Even though the floor can support 14 large hippos many people are afraid to walk on it and some get queasy looking 1,122 feet straight down. But is it fun to stand on it and to watch other people’s reaction. They have never lost anyone so not to worry.

We also took a Hippo Tour, which entered the water at the harbor giving us some amazing views of the CN Tower, the city, and the islands of Toronto. Great fun.

Explore Detriot, Michigan's Hamtramck Neighborhood

2010-08-30T14:55:00.000-07:00

On a recent trip to Detroit I took a tour of Hamtramck and learned about the city’s Polish heritage. The group tour started at 8 a.m. in the New Palace Bakery. The smell of the fresh baked goods filled the bakery. Vicky, the owner, offered us fresh pastries along with our morning coffee. A great way to start the day.

Thus fortified we headed down the street to St. Florian Roman Catholic Church. Amazing that such a small community could be responsible for such a beautiful church. The inside is like a cathedral. The stained glass windows dominated by the rose window are outstanding. The altar windows depict five famous Polish saints while the others illustrate the life and teachings of Christ. Our guide, Greg Kowalski, explained, “In 1910 the Dodge factory needed workers and the Polish people flooded in. St. Florian was completed in 1928 at a cost of $500,000.” He went on to say “No Polish person built a house unless they could see the steeple of the church.” Even today the steeple is visible from most points in Hamtramck helping it retain a small town ambiance. Kowalski went on to explain that today Hamtramck is like a little United Nations with people from all over the world living and working together.

At the Polish Art Center, the owner, Joan Bittner, taught us how to create wycinanki, intricate paper cuttings that are symmetrical designs cut from a single piece of colored paper that has been folded several times. They are then layered with brightly colored paper. The best that could be said was we that we tried and Joan was a patient teacher. Obviously it takes a great deal of skill, patience and practice to make a beautiful wycinankis.

Just as we were finishing up our wycinankis, Big Daddy arrived with his accordion and off we went down Joseph Campau Street to the Pope’s Park. He played the “La De Da” and “Beer Barrel Polka.” The sound of the accordion made the people we passed stop and smile. It is impossible not to feel upbeat when hearing accordion music. The Pope Park was dedicated in 1982 to celebrate the first Polish pope, John Paul II. In front of the wall mural depicting a town square in Krakow, Poland, the Wawel Folk Ensemble filled the park with a swirl of color and happy music as they demonstrated several typical Polish dances. It would have been a powerful end to a great tour but what is a Polish culture tour without food? So Big Daddy, like a pied piper, led us merrily down the street to Polonia, a restaurant hosted Anthony Bourdain of the Travel Channel’s “No Reservations.”

Our group walked through the restaurant already filled with lunchtime customers to the kitchen where Janusz Zurowski, the owner, taught us to how to make Polonia’s Potato Noodles. Once we had mastered the technique – well sort of – we sat down to a lunch of Polish favorites that included red cabbage, stuffed cabbage, potato noodles, locally made sausage, and more. And what a wonderful lunch it was. My favorite was the stuffed cabbage. Truly a case of too much of a good thing! The tour of the Hamtramck was one of my favorite parts of our visit to Detroit.

2010-08-30T14:42:00.000-07:00

Nashville, Tennessee was dubbed “Music City” by England’s Queen Victoria. In 1874 the Fisk Jubilee Singers performed for Queen Victoria who is reported to have said, "These young people must surely come from a musical city." From spirituals to the symphony, music is the life and soul of the city. In fact music is even piped onto the streets.

1. A royal performance: The original Fish Jubilee Singers, most of whom were former slaves, were students of Fisk University who introduced the world, including Queen Victoria, to slave songs in an effort to raise money for their university. The tradition continues. Check www.fiskjubileesingers.org for their performance schedule.

2. The “Carnegie of the South:” Before the Ryman Theater became famous as the home of the Grand Ole Opry in 1925, Enrico Caruso, John Philip Sousa, the Vienna Orchestra, and other notables performed on stage. From 1943 to 1974 the Ryman was home to the Grand Ole Opry which occasionally still hosts the show as well as a variety of other performances.

3. Opryland: Today the Opryland is a one-stop destination located a few miles from downtown in the largest non-gambling hotel complex in the United States. Now home to the Grand Ole Opry, the hotel is an attraction unto itself with shops, restaurants, tropical indoor gardens, waterfalls, including a flat boat ride on the indoor river.

4. The famous: The building that houses the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is designed to look like a piano keyboard and a four-tiered tower representing the evolution from the 78 RPM record to the CD. Displays range from the Hall of Fame to Elvis’ solid gold Cadillac to video clips.

5. The music makers: The Musicians Hall of Fame celebrates those who played the music for the singers who became famous. Singers who wanted the best to play when they recorded called for musicians known as “The A Team.” Hall of Fame guitarist Harold Bradley recalled, "One session would be with Elvis Presley, another with Patsy Cline, then Kitty Wells...,"

6. “Shhhh!” The Bluebird café is a unique “listening room” where their slogan is “Shhh!” They offer libations and food but in the evening songwriters like Don Schlitz, who wrote “The Gambler” and helped establish the café’s music in the round format, entertain. Sunday night features new writers and an opportunity to hear tomorrow's hits today.

7. Honky-Tonking: The corner of Fifth and Broadway is the entrance to Honky Tonk Highway lined with bars with no cover charge and live music. The most famous is Tootsies Orchid Lounge – a place many famous musicians have called home. Other favorites are The Legend and The Stage.

8. Get Wild! When the Wildhorse Saloon opened in 1994, Reba McEntire was performing on stage while a herd of cattle stampeded past the front doors. Since that day guests have been stampeding to the saloon to enjoy the great food including fried pickles, learn how to line dance, and enjoy a variety of music on a regular basis.

9. Get the scoop: One of the tours offered by Gray Line Tours drives past the homes of country music artists including Alan Jackson, Vince Gill, Ronnie Milsap, Dolly Parton, Martina McBride, Ronnie Dunn, Kix Brooks, and other musical greats. Think of it as “Entertainment Tonight” on wheels.

10. It Shimmers! Nashville isn’t just country. Nashvillians are especially proud of their new Schermerhorn Symphony Center. The neoclassic design belies the fact that the building is only a year old and incorporates the best technological and acoustical advances.

Door County, Wisconsin's Fish Boil Dinner

2010-08-30T14:33:00.000-07:00

A fish boil is a must-do when in Door County, Wisconsin. Recently John and I made our second trip to this scenic peninsula. A fish boil is good eating prepared with flair and fire. Many people from Norway, Iceland, and Sweden settled in Door County making their living off the plentiful fish in Lake Michigan and it is these groups that brought the fish boil concept to Door County. Fish boils have been a Door County happening for more than 100 years. At first they were a way to feed a group of hungry fishermen and lumberjacks. Fish boils became a great church fundraiser but they eventually became so popular that restaurants made them part of their standard fare.

My husband, John, and I arrived 30 minutes before our scheduled dinnertime at the Old Post Office Restaurant, a beautiful dining establishment overlooking Eagle Harbor in Ephraim, so as not to miss the “show.” Fish boils start outdoors behind the restaurant. The fire was already going strong and the large kettle was boiling. We joined the other people seated around the fire. Earl, the Boil Master, arrived and explained, “A basket containing potatoes and onions has been cooking in the kettle and it is now about time to add the fish.”

Earl displayed the generous cuts of whitefish steaks in a wire basket and then it is placed in the pot. The fish is fresh caught everyday and is usually whitefish but lake trout can be used. It takes 10-11 minutes for the fish to cook during which Earl, the Boil Master, becomes Earl the wannabe comic.

Earl has a standup routine of fish jokes that he admits “smelt.” He answers his own fish questions. “ What song do fish sing at Christmastime? Salmon Enchanted Evening.” “What does the fish say when it hits the cement wall? Dam.” “How much does a pirate pay to get his ears pierced? A buck-an-ear.” And so it goes to the laughs and some groans from the hungry diners.

At just the right time Earl throws kerosene on the fire which causes the fire to blaze up and water to boil over. As the water boils over it takes with it a lot of the fish oils with which is one reason even those who shun fish love the fish from a fish boil. The fish is light, delicate and fresh. Not being a fish-lover I can testify to that. It is delicious.

After the boil over we moved to the restaurant for our dinner of fish, potatoes, and onions drizzled with generous amounts of melted butter. Accompanying the meal was the restaurant’s special cole slaw, rolls and that other Door County tradition - homemade cherry pie.

Door County is that pinkie-like peninsula that juts into Lake Michigan making fishing and other water activities the main attractions. But the land is also perfect for growing cherries. Door County’s other foodie treat is anything made with cherries.

Earlier John and I had toured the Lautenbach’s Orchard County, Winery and Market where they are all about cherries. We sampled cherry preserves, cherry BBQ sauce, cherry-honey-mustard pretzel dip, and wine with a hint of cherry. It is also where we caught the Door County Trolley for a scenic tour of the area.

Cleveland, Ohio – A Great City on a Great Lake

2010-08-29T10:35:00.000-07:00

Cleveland has art, music, a zoo, sports and, of course, the Christmas Story House. Truly something for everyone.
1. You’ll shoot your eye out! A major portion of the movie was filmed at the house now known as the Christmas Story House. Across the street the museum highlights some of the favorite episodes from the film and the museum shop sells the Leg Lamp, Red Ryder B-B Gun, and Lifebouy soap. Open all year.
2. The Cleveland sound: One-time Cleveland disc jockey, Alan Freed, is widely credited with coining the term of "rock and roll." Today the city is home to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame where a multi-media presentation features the honorees and their music that range from Elvis Presley to Black Sabbath.
3. It is all relative: “Blink your eyes.” In the time it takes you to blink, light has traveled two times around the world. Amazing! And so is the Great Lakes Science Center where visitors learn about the Theory of Relativity, the human body, and exploring all phases of flight.
4. The Thinker: The Museum of Art has one of six statues of Rodin’s The Thinker. The feet are missing due to a bomb attack in 1970. The museum is in the midst of a massive building project. Currently Impressionist and Modern Masters from the museum’s collection are on display.
5. Celebrate Life: The spiny desert of Madagascar with the strange-looking baobab tree and the tropical rainforest of Costa Rica with the strangler fig tree topped with a canopy viewing platform are just two diverse aspects of the Botanical Gardens.
6. Know thyself: From our position in the vastness of the universe to a Field Guide to Humans, the Museum of Natural History unravels life of the present, past, and future. Stop by to say “Hello” to the famous Alaskan sled dog, Balto, and Happy, the 70-foot-long Haplocanthosaurus Delfsi.
7. A lucky dime: Founded in 1869, and modeled after the great garden cemeteries of Victorian England, Lake View Cemetery is the final resting place of the 20th President of the United States, James A. Garfield and his wife. Leave a dime on the John D. Rockefeller monument in the hope of personal financial success.
8. A smorgasbord: Stop by the West Side Market for a cup of coffee with a yummy eclair or a falafel with tabouli. The historic West Side Market opened nearly 100 years ago. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, there many new treats to savor.
9. Be a sport: Sports is huge in Cleveland! Football fans cheer for the Cleveland Browns at their namesake lakeside stadium. Jacobs Field is the home field of the Cleveland Indians. The Quicken Loan Arena is the place to watch NBA’s Cleveland Cavaliers and the AHL hockey team, the Lake Erie Monsters.
10. Architectural treasures: From the palatial grandeur of The Arcade, America’s first indoor shopping mall built in 1890 to St. Theodosius Russian Orthodox Cathedral with its onion domes and ornate interior the architectural treasures are many. Take an architectural tour with
Explore Cleveland’s connection to the lake by taking a cruise, visit the museum steamship, the William G. Mather, and the WW-II U.S.S. COD Submarine Memorial. For more to see and do visit www.positivelycleveland.com or call 800-321-1004.

Make a Gingerbread House at River Edge Mansion

2010-08-29T10:27:00.000-07:00

Gingerbread has been a holiday tradition for years. It was probably introduced into Europe around the 11th century by explorers returning from the Middle East. The tradition of making houses of gingerbread is believed to have started in the early 1800's when Germans began shaping their gingerbread into festive holiday creations. During the nineteenth century the Grimm brothers collected volumes of German fairy tales including one about Hansel and Gretel who, abandoned in the woods, find a fantastical gingerbread house covered in luscious treats. Gingerbread houses soon became a favorite Christmas tradition worldwide.

American recipes usually called for fewer spices than their European counterparts, often using ingredients that were only available regionally. Maple syrup gingerbreads were made in New England and sorghum molasses in the South. The German settlers in Pennsylvania stayed true to their original recipe.

To see beautifully created gingerbread houses head to the Erie Canal Museum in Syracuse where their annual gingerbread display fills the second floor gallery with tantalizing aromas. The gallery is transformed into a festive 1800s street scene with over 40 gingerbread creations on display. Professional and amateur bakers are invited to enter their own gingerbread creation.

I stopped in at River Edge Mansion in Pennellville one afternoon and watched five teenage girls who were at staying at the B&B for a sleepover creating their very own gingerbread houses.

Cindy Jones, sister of the owner of the River Edge Mansion, gave the girls a choice of log cabin or Victorian gingerbread house styles. Starting with marzipan frosting and Cindy’s guidance the girls assembled their houses. “A little more marzipan here will make you house sturdier. Let it set a bit.” She advised. Then the creativity began. With a variety of candy and other confections each gingerbread house took on a wondrous look. Creating gingerbread houses is just one of the cooking experiences offered by River Edge Mansion.

Cindy Jones used the following recipes from the “Family Christmas Reader’s Digest Book” that was given to her by her mother over 20 years ago.

Gingerbread
3/4 cup shortening
3/4 cup molasses
3/4 cup sugar
3 3/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon nutmeg
3 teaspoons ginger

Melt shortening in a large saucepan and stir in sugar and molasses with a wooden spoon. Remove from heat. Sift together dry ingredients and stir into molasses mixture using your hands to work it in completely. The dough will be soft and crumbly. Use as soon as possible or wrap and refrigerate. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Lightly grease two cookie sheets. Roll the dough on the cookie sheets to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut dough with cookie cutters or into shapes to be used for the gingerbread house. Bake for 10-15 minutes. Do not over bake.

The frosting is used to cement the house together and simulate icicles.
In a large bowl beat the first three ingredients until frothy.
2 egg whites
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 teaspoons water
3 cups sifted confectioner's sugar

Gradually add sugar and continue to beat until the mixture is of spreading consistency. Add more sugar if necessary. The icing should be firm enough to hold a soft peak. Cover with a damp towel to prevent drying out. The icing may be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Once the house is assembled any assortment of candies can be used to decorate the house.