The American Tragedy

There are some books we never forget and some that we read more than once. One of those books for me is “An American Tragedy” by Theodore Dreiser. My first read of the book was in college as an assignment in an American literature class. The book, along with books like “Grapes of Wrath” is seen as the beginning of the modern American literature. I was intrigued because I knew the story was based on true events and that it took place in New York State. The climax of the book ended in my old stomping grounds, the Adirondacks. I later found out that my great aunt was working as a chambermaid at the same hotel where the main characters stayed – The Glenmore Hotel. The book shows the extent someone will go to realize the American Dream ignoring any sense of morality. The story is timeless.

When I was in Cortland recently I visited Cinch Art Space, a store with a plethora of beautiful artwork by over 50 local artists. There was everything from delicate fairies to handcrafted notepaper to fine woodwork. It is located, along with other businesses, in the old Cortland Corset Factory. I love repurposed old buildings then I learned at the building had a literary connection of sorts. When it was the Cortland Skirt Factory it was where the real-life Grace Brown and Chester Gillette worked. They became the basis of Theodore Dreiser’s “An American Tragedy” which has been named by “Time Magazine” as one the top 100 novels written in English since 1923. Interestingly, it was banned in Boston in 1927 and burned by the Nazis in Germany in 1933 because it “deals with low love affairs.”

Dreiser changed some of the names and places when writing the book but basically the story is the same. Chester Gillette was born into a successful family but his father, after a religious conversion, renounced his wealth and became a roving missionary for the Salvation Army. Gillette, however, still hankered for the good life and when his uncle offered him a job at his factory in Cortland he accepted. He had the opportunity to work hard and advanced. Knowing that he should not consort with the help, Gillette ignored the advice and began seeing Grace Brown, a hard working girl from a farm family. They usually met at her place and not in public. Meanwhile, Gillette moved up the social rung and began dating the daughter of a prominent family. Grace Brown became pregnant and wanted to get married but that would have interfered in Gillette’s hope for marrying someone from the upper class.

Fearing that Grace would expose their relationship, on the ruse that they were going on a honeymoon, the two traveled to The Glenmore Hotel on Big Moose Lake in the Adirondacks. He took her out in a canoe and probably hit her with the canoe paddle or his tennis racquet, the canoe overturned, she drowned. She left her belongings behind but Gillette took his suitcase and tennis racquet. He ditched the racquet on the way to Inlet, NY; he checked into the Arrowhead Hotel where he was arrested. His trial attracted international attention – the OJ trial of its time. He was executed in Auburn Prison.

Besides Dreiser’s book there have been several stage and screen adaptations including the 1951 award-winning movie, “A Place in the Sun” starring Elizabeth Taylor.

Interesting places to visit in Cortland County

I wasn’t sure if visiting the Dragonfyre Distillery would be

worthwhile.  I have been to many distilleries and they are all pretty much the same.  However, when we drove up a side road and saw a sign “Beware of low flying dragons” I was intrigued.  And then alongside of the road there was a Small bright blue door to the Hobbit and I knew it was going to be worth the drive.  Before entering I saw a fairy door and I knew I was going to meet and see someone interesting.  

One of the first thing I noticed was their “Most Holey Knight: Sir Lea Kaslot” and the fact that there were dragons and fairies everywhere. You might say there spirits everywhere. Oh, and yes, there is a copper distillery, two of them, hand made by the owner Vincent Pedini.  He learned the process from his father who learned from his father but he is the one that decided to market the spirits.  Everything is

blended from locally grown products and none of the spirits have been blended with products from elsewhere. His wife, Donna, is the Artist in Residence.  Not to miss is the “necessary room” where Donna painted all surfaces including the ceiling and floor turning it into a magical forest inhabited by an interesting variety of denizens including dragons and fairies.  It was definitely worth the trip and on the way out I spotted a fairy in the forest waving “Good Bye” to us. 

Our last stop on the way home was in Homer.  We were told that the world’s largest pair of pants was in Homer Men & Boys store.  They are 8 feet tall. I wasn’t that impressed.  I don’t know what I expected but the store itself was impressive.  I have never seen such a large store with so much merchandise.  Every inch of the store is covered in huge piles of clothing, shoes, coat, and other apparel, Their motto, “If we don’t have it you don’t need it,” rings true.  They have been family run since 1951.  They also take on-line orders.

There was one more place we wanted to stop but on the way out of Homer I saw a beautiful octagon house and just had to take a

picture.  Octagon houses were popular for a short time in the mid-1800s.  It was thought to be cheaper to build, allowed for more living space, received more natural light and was easier to heat. It was also the time of spiritualism and religious movements in New York State.  Some people believed that an octagon house would prevent “spirits” from hiding in corners. 

Our last stop was at Tartan Acres located on a hilltop with great views.  I was surprised to learn the owner, Ken Clark, was from Mexico, NY where I had lived for 50 years. He and his wife purchased the property and remodeled the farm house planning to open a B&B but then Covid 19 hit so everything is on hold.  His wife, Brenda, saw alpacas at the state fair and her

love for them ended with raising them.  They have about 80, some of which were just born. We petted some and were amazed at how soft their fur is. They often host an open house and provide “Alpaca 101” classes for those interested in owning and raising alpacas.  The alpaca regarded us with an inquisitive expression.  It is easy to see how people become enamored with them.

For Piano Lovers

Most small towns have a hidden gem.  Hunter, a small town nestled in the Catskill Mountains, is no exception. Hunter is best known for Hunter Mountain Resort where they offer multi-seasonal activities from skiing to the sky ride.  But there is something in the village that is really unique. 

The Piano Performance Museum is home of a one-of-a-king collection of historic pianos and musical artifacts. Housed in part of bright blue building that is home to the Performance Center, the museum is home to the Steven E. Greenstein piano collection.

The collection includes early and modern keyboard

instrument including European historic pianos, as well as American pianos built in the 18th and 19th centuries. The collection shows the development of the instrument from the small piano forte, built for use in private homes and salons, to the modern piano, built for large concert halls. The collection also includes tuning tools and repair kits, some 200 years old, leather-wrapped with a place for each tool; tuning forks, hammers—

everything that would allow a technician to bring a piano back to maximum performance standards.  The collection includes an 1851 Chickering, of the same style as the piano in the Lincoln White House. Piano Shawls: A display of beautiful, one-of-a-kind hand-embroidered silk throws that were popular adornments of pianos in people's homes in the 19th century. The museum is located in the Doctorow Center for the Arts that hosts a myriad of event throughout the year. 

I was fascinated by the collection of miniature pianos that was recently donated to the museum.  I think the owner must have had fun collecting them.  There are some the size of a thumb nail.  They range from the delicate glass pianos to whimsical ones.  Of course, there is one of Schroeder playing the piano with Lucy watching.  I appreciate the dedication of people who have a passion for one thing and then donate to someplace where many people can enjoy it. 

There is another gem in Newark, NY.  Located in a dedicated area of the Newark Library is the Hoffman Clock Museum. Ever notice how our lives are governed by time.  Gone are the days when it was either morning or night, or before the sun is high in the sky and after it is. Time keeping dates back 5000 years to the Babylonians and Egyptians.  Since then there have many devices to control our daily life.  When I was

teaching I was amused by the fact the class would end at 9:32 or some other very precise number. The museum details the history of timekeeping. This unique collection of timepieces has something for everyone and includes over 300 clocks, watches and tools. Exhibits introduce the visitor to the development of timekeeping technology and provide a wide variety of clock styles. There is an organ clock and time clocks. A special emphasis on the history of New York State clock makers makes this museum a truly exceptional place to visit.

These small collections allow me to learn a lot in a short time while being focused on one topic.  I sometimes wonder how a person becomes so entranced by an object that they collect obsessively. I visited the Pez Museum when I was in California.  It was fun and interesting but it made me wonder how the person got started.  I know if I collected it no one wants and it isn’t worth anything, to wit: silver, crystal, Toby Mugs, 

Battle of Fort William Henry

Fort William Henry, a British fort at the southern end of Lake

George, was constructed in 1755 during the French and Indian Wars. Before the revolution and when most of America was under the control of the British, the French and Indian War pitted the colonists against French in the Americas.  The local Indians helped on both side. 

In August of 1757 British General Montcalm and 8000 French Troops aided by Huron Indians and Canadian Volunteers attacked the fort. The fort's walls were breached, its guns were overused, and the many casualties, caused General Monro to surrender on August 9. Today it is remembered as a massacre. There still remains much speculation as to how many people were killed (including women, children, and slaves who

were not part of military records). The massacre was later dramatized in James Fenimore Cooper's book, The Last of the Mohicans, and its numerous film adaptations. Imagine if you lived in that area and what the terror must have been like.  When I hear people claim that we live in disastrous time I suggest they recall their local history. 
Not many people were living in Western New York at that time but Fort Oswego, not to be confused with Fort Ontario, was constructed in 1727 at the mouth of the Oswego River on the southeast shore to protect the area.  Only a stone monument remains. 

During the week of August 10, 1756, a force of regulars and Canadian militia under General Montcalm captured and occupied the British fortifications at Fort Oswego. There were not many people living in the area but it must have been frightening for those who did.

During the French and Indian War and again during the Revolution

many areas of New York were under siege. Within the fort besides the soldier there were women and children. That is not to mention the many Indian raids. 

The Battle of Fort Niagara was a siege late in the French and Indian War. The British siege of Fort Niagara in July 1759 was part of a campaign to remove French control of the Great Lakes and Ohio Valley regions, making

possible a western invasion of the French province of Canada in conjunction with General James Wolfe's invasion to the east. The French had about one hundred Iroquois allies at the Fort who deserted when the British arrived. British Captain Pouchot directed a vigorous defense. British General Prideaux was killed when a shell fragment from one of his own guns hit him, and command of the British forces fell to Sir William Johnson. The French capitulated on 26 July. 

I can’t imagine living in such times.  Not counting 9/11 and President Kennedy assassination I think 1968 was the scariest time.  It seemed that it was one thing after another: Martin Luther King assassination followed by riots in most major cities, Robert Kennedy assassinated, North Korea captured the US Pueblo, Tet Offensive and ongoing protest to the Vietnam War, and the debacle at the Democratic Convention. The year of 1968 is considered one of the most violent years in American History but the country survived. 

“May you live in interesting times” is purported to be a Chinese curse. Hopefully, not too interesting. We will survive the current situation and so will the country. “Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it.”

Driving along Route 20

U.S. Route 20 runs from Boston, Massachusetts to Newport, Oregon. It is 3,365 miles
long. In New York, US 20 extends 372.32 miles from the Pennsylvania state line at Ripley to the Massachusetts state line in the Berkshire Mountains. US 20 is the longest surface road in New York. It is more historically significant than Route 66.

U.S. Route 66  was one of the original highways in the U.S. Highway System. The highway, which became one of the most famous roads in the United States, originally ran from Chicago, Illinois to Santa Monica, California covering a total of 2,448. 
Why is it more popular that Route 20.  Publicity. It was made famous culture by the hit song "Get Your Kicks on Route 66" and the Route 66 television series, which aired on CBS from 1960 to 1964. Route 20 needs someone to write a song about it and/or develop a TV series. 

I think it would be wonderful to drive the length of it, exploring all the small towns along the way.  That is not going to happen but it is easy to explore Route 20, which is also a Scenic Byway, one area at a time. 



One way to experience Route 20 might be by selecting one county and use it as a base for exploring the area. Schoharie County is a great place to visit. Drive the historic Route 20 Byway between Sharon Springs and Esperance and/or explore Schoharie County’s less-traveled roads enjoying the tranquility and beauty of the countryside taking a few side trips. The county is dotted with classic Main Street towns featuring unique shops with locally made goods, art galleries, restaurants, and restored turn of the century accommodations. Step back to an earlier time in Carlisle, Cobleskill, Esperance, Middleburgh, Sharon Springs, and the historic village of Schoharie. In Sharon Springs don’t miss the Beekman 1802 Mercantile made famous in the “Fabulous Beekman Boys” of reality TV fame. Too bad they didn’t use the show to promote Route 20 and write a hit song “The Fabulous Beekman Boys of Route 20!” 

Schoharie County is dubbed the “County of Caves.”  For six million years Mother Nature carved out amazing underground caverns. The most famous is Howe Caverns where visitors descent 156 feet below the Earth’s surface to journey through the expansive main cavern marveling at the stalactites and stalagmites and then take a boat ride on the underground River Styx. If you haven’t been to Howe Caverns in a while then you will be amazed at all the adventurous things to do besides explore the cave. There is a zip line, ropes course, rock wall, H2OGO Balls, a motel, and more. Nearby is another underground wonder, the Secret Caverns, complete with a waterfall. 



Before the first European settlers arrived in 1712 the area was home to the Iroquois. The Iroquois Museum, near Howe Caverns, is housed in a building that recalls the traditional longhouse offering an insight into Iroquois culture by promoting Iroquois art and artists. There is a nature trail plus a variety of festivals, events, and learning activities for all age groups.

The Old Stone Fort Museum Complex in Schoharie includes several buildings: a 1700s home, a 1780 Dutch barn, a one-room school house, plus a 1772 stone church that was fortified and attacked by the British forces in 1780. Take note of parishioners’ names that the builders chiseled into the stones. The Treasure Hunt of the Fort’s eclectic museum collection is fun for all ages. Try to find a shield from the Philippines, a button with a photograph on it, and a glass tombstone. A variety of historical events are reenacted throughout the year.

Enjoying Lake George

I have to admit it.  I am suffering from a serious case of lacka-travel-itis. I have lots of time but no country will let Americans visit.  Strange world, so I looked for someplace in New York State.  We have many wonderful places but there are not many places I haven’t explored.  I had been through Lake George many times but never stayed there, so Lake George became my getaway place.

As a member of the IHG Rewards Club (which is free to join) I get points for staying at any of their many hotels.  If fact, they are now offer extra points.  I booked four nights at the Holiday Inn Resort in Lake George.  It wasn’t directly on the lake but had a nice view of the lake plus an indoor and outdoor pool.  I turned out to be perfect.  

Many things were closed, of course, but there were still things to

do.  We took a cruise on the The Minne-Ha-Ha which is one of the last stream paddle wheel ships in America. The Lake George Steamboat Company has been steaming about the lake since 1817.  They offer one- and two-hour cruises. Each of their three ships is unique. It was a good way to get an overview of the lake.  We went by some of houses that line “Millionaire’s Row.”

Whenever I travel I check with Atlas Obscura to see if there is something different to check out.  One of the spots in Lake George is definitely unique. The Mystery Spot defies the laws of acoustics. Face the lake and shout or sing and your echo will come back to you. Only you will hear it and only on this precise spot. There haven’t been any definitive answers as to why it

happens so maybe the Native American legend is the answer.  They say an ancient god appeared long ago on this spot and his wisdom still echoes around the lake.  I like old legends and always hope there is a nugget of truth in it somewhere. There is no sign for the Mystery Spot but it is easy to find.  It is behind the Lake George Visitor Center.  Look for a cement circle with a swath of blue paint with two intersecting metal lines and stand where they meet and sing.   

Every region has a foodie favorite.  In Warren County it is what the locals call “dirty john’s hot dogs” at New Way lunch.  It has been around since 1919. The “World Famous” hot dog is a custom make pork and beef hot dog served on a steamed bun with mustard, onion, and New Way’s homemade meat sauce. It has been featured on TV and in magazines. Not a fan of hot dogs but liked the steamed bun. 

It was a curvy but pretty Adirondack drive to Nettle Meadow Farm where they raise the goats and make cheese.  It is also an animal sanctuary.  All the ingredients are natural. The goats and sheep are cared for by Amish families in the area.  But there are some friendly rescued goats on site. They have a small cheese store on site with an amazing variety of cheeses. On the way back we had to stop and get some locally produced wine.  What is cheese without wine? Nearby there was a place that sold artisan vinegar and oil… wine, bread, cheese and special oil and vinegar.
Lake George has a lot of things to do.  Check their website to see what is opened.  

Cooper's Cave

A bridge crosses the Hudson River in the village of Glens Falls. Under the bridge there is a cave that gave inspiration to James Fenimore Cooper when he was writing “The Last of the Mohicans.” Cooper’s Cave is the fictional site in the book and movie set during the French and Indian War.  In the book Col. Duncan Heyward of Virginia is transporting two girls to their father, Col Munro, who was a commander at Fort William Henry in Lake George. If you

haven’t read the book, not to worry, in 1992 it was made into an action packed movie depicting life in New York State in the late 1700s and it will make you realize how good we have it today. The cave actually has two parts. There is a handicap accessible view platform with several story boards. 

While the story of the two girls is fictional the fort where their father was a commander, Fort William Henry, is not.  A reconstructed Fort William Henry is located at the southern end of Lake George. It was constructed in 1755 during the French and Indian War. It was successfully attacked by General Montcalm. The fort was destroyed. The siege of Fort William Henry by the French under Montcalm is accurately portrayed in the book and the movie including the participation by the Iroquois nation.

The Mohicans, not to be confused with the present-day Iroquois, were an Algonquian-speaking Native American group who lived in the upper Hudson River area and in the Catskills. Also the Mohicans should not be confused with the Mohegans who once lived in what is now Connecticut and were related to the Pequot. In the late 1600s after a war with the Mohawk of the Iroquois Confederacy the Mohicans were forced to move to what is Stockbridge, Massachusetts. They sold their land. Some merged with other tribes and one group moved to Wisconsin where, today, they have a reservation. 

James Fenimore Cooper served in the military and one assignment brought him to Oswego. He served under Lieutenant Woolsey and oversaw the building of the brig USS Oneida. The vessel was intended for service on Lake Ontario in case of a war with Great Britain. During his leisure time he would explore the forests of New York State and the shore of Lake Ontario as far as the Thousand Islands.  He incorporated his knowledge in “The Pathfinder.” In fact, it is thought that his characters along the Oswego River were based on fact. 

Fort Ontario was a frontier outpost at the mouth of the Oswego River, not to be confused with Fort Ontario.  Fort Oswego no longer stands but there is a stone with a plaque at the end of West 1st where the fort once stood. Cooper portrays the area as an “Eden” with a perfect climate, limitless games, and kind of frontier democracy where people are judged on merit not their wealth. 


In Oswego he lived in a home on West Second Street and the word “Pathfinder” is now used by a bank and the dining hall at the Oswego college.  Cooper’s books referred to as the “Leatherstocking Tales” brought the American frontier alive for people around the world.