Places to visit in Kathmandu

There are actually three Durbar Squares in Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Durbar means “palace.”  The most famous is Basantapur Durbar Square which is considered the traditional heart of the old town and is famed for its traditional architecture. The Basantapur Durbar Square was in front of Nepal’s 19th century royal residence. It was hard hit in the 2015 earthquake when more

than half of the temples were destroyed. Some buildings were badly damaged but are still standing and in the process of being repaired.  Regardless the square is still fascinating with people making offerings to Kal Bhairav. The image is frightful. Kal Bhairav, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and worshipped by Hindus and Jaines but also by the Nepalese who want to better manage their time instead of wasting time on frivolous pursuits.

 John and I have much to learn about the religions and practices in Asia. Men were selling oil lights as offerings. There’s a huge wooden wagon that is used in special religious processions that the children enjoy clambering over; and Hindu monks wanting monetary offerings. (Buddhist monks never ask for money.) The square has many pigeons with ladies feeding them.  It is said that just before the earthquake the pigeons took flight. I have heard that animals often sense impending natural phenomena. There is still evidence of earthquake damage here and there.  Our hotel, the Shanker, had damage to the lobby and is in the process of repairing it. 

John and I visited Narayanhity Palace which is actually a newly built palace-like museum built on the site of the last royal palace. Taking pictures is not allowed. There is an impressive throne room and other royal articles.  Outside the main building, in the gardens which were once part of the previous palace, there are signs indicating

where each member of the royal family was executed. In 2001 Prince Dipendra went on a rampage, most likely drug and alcohol induced, and murdered nine members of the royal family including his parents before shooting himself.  He was upset over his parent’s refusal to allow his marriage to a commoner. In essence it was the beginning of the end of the monarchy which came about in 2007and in 2008 Nepal became a republic.

We also visited Swayambhu, better known as Monkey Temple, a religious complex at the top of a hill and one of the most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites.  There are free-roaming “holy” monkeys. Why are they considered holy? I love the legends/stories that explain such things. It seems that when Manjushri, the bodhisattva (a person who is saint-like) of wisdom and learning, was creating the hill and temple he was supposed to keep his hair short but it grew long and with head lice. It is said that the head lice turned into the monkeys. 

Not too far from our hotel was an oasis of peace and tranquility

“The Garden of Dreams.” The Garden was a neo-classical historical garden created in the 1920s and considered one of the most sophisticated private gardens at that time with fountains, flowers, and pavilions each dedicated to one of the six seasons of Nepal. Today only half of it remains but it is still beautiful as it was restored with the cooperation of the Austrian government making it a beautiful place to relax for tourist and locals alike. 

Visiting Kathmandu

 The names of some destinations have a magical draw for me such as Katmandu and Timbuktu. I will probably never get to Timbuktu but I decided if I was ever going to Kathmandu I better go while I still can. 

When John and I arrived at Nepal’s Tribhuvan International Airport it was very busy with

several planes arriving about the same time. We decided to get a visa on arrival but so did most of the other passengers so it was very hectic.  One of the airport security guards came to the rescue (I sure TSA& airport security in the US would do the same – maybe, maybe not).  He motioned for us to sit and said if we gave him the money for the visas ($25 pp for a 15-day visa) he would do it for us.  We gave him the money and our passports and after a few minutes he returned with all the necessary paperwork, led us to the desk where visas are issued and with a nod to the people standing in line we went ahead of everyone and received our visas.  It was much appreciated.  

Our hotel, Hotel Shanker, provided complimentary airport

transfers. I try to book hotels with complimentary transport because we find dealing with airport taxis frustrating.  The ride into the city was interesting.  The city seemed chaotic. Vendors had their wares displayed along the roadway. The traffic was intense. Katmandu has over one

million people and no stoplights or stop signs. There are a few policemen at critical intersections but basically traffic, which is heavy most of the time, operates on drivers taking turns giving way to other drivers. I was told that some foreign organizations had installed traffic lights but it caused more confusion because Kathmandu does not have reliable electricity 24 hours. 

Our hotel, the Shanker, was, like many other high end hotels,

located down a private side road from the main highway making it an oasis in the midst of a pulsating city. The Shanker is a family owner hotel and offered great deals because the hotel suffered some damage to the lobby during the earthquake and while they are repairing the damage they decided to upgrade some parts of the hotel.  It didn’t impact our stay. For a reasonable price we were able to book a suite. 

John and I enjoy cultural shows.  The concierge at the hotel booked dinner for us at Bhojan Girha with transportation. It was much better than I thought it would be. I imaged tour buses dropping of dozens of people.  Not so.  The restaurant is in an history building in neo-classic design that was once the residence of the royal priest and  is over 150 years old. It was on the verge of collapse when it was skillfully restored using

traditional methods to become a place that promotes culture and local cuisine.   They have several restaurants to meet the needs of various groups.  Our room was perfect.  Quite intimate.  Seating is traditional – on the floor but they had special low chairs for those of us who were not accustomed to

sitting comfortably on the floor. The festive folk music was representative of some of the over 100 Nepali ethnic groups. The many course meal was delicious from the Momocha (meat filled dumplings) to Kukhura Ko Masu (chicken curry) to Sikarni (sweetened yogurt Cream).  A wonderful way to learn about Napali culture.