DMZ tour from Seoul, Korea

One of the most popular day tours in Korea is to the DMZ and Panmunjom.  With all the news about the 29-year-old North Korean leader, Kim Jong Un, I was curious to see if tours to the border area between North and South Korea were still possible. The two-mile wide DMZ runs about 160 miles along the 38^th parallel cutting the Korean Peninsula in half dividing Korea into two parts.

John and I wanted to book a full day tour to the DMZ and Panmunjom but visiting Panmunjom was not allowed while we were there because they were holding military maneuvers. This was understandable considering the rhetoric we were hearing on CNN but we were told that each side routinely holds “shows of strength.” The Koreans we talked to said they were not really worried. They said, “It is the same-old, same-old.  We have been living with it for 60 years.”

Panmunjom, officially called the Joint Security Area by the United Nations. is where the armistice

agreement was signed in 1953. It is a “no-man’s land” with no side in charge.  I understand that it is basically a deserted village and that the DMZ is actually more interesting. 

The bus ride from Seoul north along the river was interesting because it was lined with barbed wire and guard houses at frequent intervals. At one point our guide pointed out that the other side of the river was North Korea. She said that recently a North Korean swam across the river and knocked on the guardhouse and asked for asylum.

Our first stop was Imjingak, a park that was built to console refugees who left North Korea during the war. It is a fascinating place that combines historical artifacts with amusement rides.  The park has become a place for Koreans to relax and enjoy the out-of-doors but it is also a place where they can bow in the direction of their ancestral graveyards.  There is a view of the Freedom Bridge, a former railroad bridge across the Imjin River, used by repatriated POWs/soldiers returning to South Korea from the North. Also on view is a huge train riddled with more than 1000 bullet holes as a reminder of the war. 

Actually there are several interesting things including a high platform from which people can view North Korea but there isn’t much to see.  The Stones of Peace wall is a sculpture containing stones from 86 battlefields in 64 countries. It was dedicated on January 1, 2000 in the hope that the new century would be one that would see the unification of the North and South and world peace.

On the same day a 21-ton Korean-style Peace Bell was also dedicated in the hope that the 21^st century would be “…a time of unification and peace for all mankind.”  We asked our guide who was very knowledgeable if we could ring the bell which was housed in a gated, temple-style pavilion. She said it was not allowed and was surprised when we pointed to a sign that said that people who were interested could ring the bell in the name of  “…unification, peace and hope...” She said she had never seen the sign and no one ever asked before but ran off to get the person in charge.  So for about $10 USD John rang the bell.  It was my favorite part of the stop in Imjingak. 

Visiting Seoul, Korea

I am a fan of customer loyalty programs.  Using our points on United Mileage Plus for tickets on Singapore Air, John and I flew from Singapore to Seoul for $44. And, using our points from the InterContinental Priority Program we stayed seven nights free at Seoul’s Seongbuk Holiday Inn. This was our first trip to Korea. It had been on our “to-visit” list but we feared the weather at the end of March would be unpleasant.  That was not the case.  The weather was perfect for sightseeing.  We arrived late in the evening so missed the affordable ($15) bus connection into the city and took a cab.  The fare was $40 but the Korean cabs take credit cards so paying was painless.  Seoul has an excellent subway system but the cabs were reasonable and went directly where we wanted to go so we ended up taking cabs most of the time.

We took a cab to the Gwanghwamun Square where we boarded the $10 two-hour tour of the city. Not everyone was able to get on so some had to wait for the next bus.  It was possible to get on and off but we like to take such tours once around.  I was surprised at how hilly the city is and even more surprised when we stopped near the Seoul Tower at a panoramic viewing area - there were buildings as far as I could see.  Amazing! Ten million people live in the city.  

We debussed at Stop 27, the last stop, and next to one of the Gyeongbokgung Palace side entrances. It worked out perfectly because just inside the entrance was the National Folk Museum, a traditional Hanok Village. Admittance was free and there was a self-guided brochure. There were several buildings and displays that depicted the traditional Korean life including the Street to the Past with typical houses, an ox-drawn millstone, and totem poles.  We were able to continue walking to the back gate of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, just one of five great palaces built during the Joseon Dynasty. It has gone through many changes since it was first built in 1395. Between the Japanese invasion in 1911 to the Korean War many of the buildings were destroyed and/or damaged. Nearly half of the original buildings are still standing or have been reconstructed. The palace grounds are extensive and beautiful.  Luckily, we reached the main gate just in time for the changing of the guard ceremony. It was an amazing, colorful ceremony with drums, flags, traditional costumes and pageantry – so much more extensive than I expected. Not to be missed for sure.

We signed up on-line for a tour of the Secret Garden, which is part of the Changdeokgung Palace. Independent touring of the garden is not permitted. The garden is huge. I wish we had been there later in the year when things are in bloom. One day we took an afternoon tour on the river. The tour was great but, once again, we were the objects of curiosity for the local people. They love to have their picture taken with us.

One afternoon we took a cooking class at O’ngo Food Communications.  Cooking experiences are fun – and tasty ways – to explore a culture.  We made Spicy Chicken Stew and Mushroom Japchae. While I could not develop a fondness for kimchi the food we made was excellent.  But, my favorite Korean dinner was Beef Bulgogi.

Innovative Singapore

We have been to Singapore several times and each time I am amazed by something new and Pickering with sky gardens at various levels. Typical of Singapore the area next to the street is lined with trees and the street-length lobby has a meandering stream creating a green environment unique for a city hotel plus it is located across from a small park.  The infinity pool with colorful birdcage lounges is located on one of the sky garden levels offering an expansive view of the city. It was especially impressive as I watched a thunderstorm roll in late one afternoon. As one might expect from a 5-Star hotel, the service, accommodations, and food was great.

unique that has opened since our last visit.  We stayed at the newly opened Parkroyal Hotel on

One of the things John and I love to do when we visit foreign countries is to take a cooking class. It is a great way experience the culture.  The Parkroyal on Pickering is located a short walk from Chinatown home to Food Playground Cooking School where we made Pandan Pancakes with Coconut Filling, Chicken Satays, and Fried Kway Teow. 

One day we visited the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel with its ^nd floor. While access to the pool is only available to guests the adjacent Observation Deck with the same great views of Singapore is open to the public for a small fee. The Sands, which as the name suggests, has a casino, over 300 stores and a museum. After a walkthrough of the shopping area we went to the ArtScience Museum. The exhibit, The Art of the Brick, is currently featuring the artwork of New York-based artist, Nathan Sayawa, who creates large-scale sculptures using LEGOs. After long days at his desk as an attorney he found enjoyment creating artwork from LEGOs then he discovered he could make a living doing what he loved to do so he left his law practice.

mind-boggling rooftop infinity pool on the 52

Next to Marina Bay Sands is Gardens by the Bay, an imaginative new addition to this already “green” city.  It is just one project aimed at transforming Singapore from “The Garden City” to “City in a Garden.” Upon arriving the first thing John and I noticed were the Super Trees ranging from 75- to 150-feet in height some of which are connected by a 300+-foot skywalk. The vertical gardens are comprised of more the 200 species of plants that offer shade during the day, but also provide solar energy, and at night are part of a sound and light display. We took a golf cart tour of the grounds which includes Heritage Gardens with four themed gardens based on the culture of Singapore’s three main ethnic groups and colonial past. And, that was before we went inside!  There are four main eco zones in the dome with flowers, plants and trees from around the world. I was especially impressed with the African Baobab Trees and the Cloud Forest complete with a waterfall. We should have planned to spend the day and stay for the nightly light and sound show.

Singapore is also home to a bird park, botanical gardens, and a great zoo with an exciting Night Safari. It wasn’t until we were ready to leave that we learned they now have a Water Safari. Guess we will just have to visit again.

Bali - Indonesia’s most popular tourist destination

Bali is just one of many islands in Indonesia but it is the most famous.  The name “Bali” conjures up images of gentle seas, swaying palms, sunny skies, and days of relaxation. And, so it is.  We are fans of Air Asia, a no-nonsense budget airline. The trick is to book early to get a promo fare and to pay for luggage at the time of booking. The three-hour flight was about $200.  I like it when we are picked up at the airport and that was part of our package with Pan Pacific Nirwana. Tourism continues to grow in Bali so they are expanding the airport and constructing new highways to eliminate traffic congestion.

The huge Pan Pacific property is located in a quiet area on the southwest coast.  It is an oasis of serenity. We are long-time fans of Pan Pacific and have stayed at several Pan Pacific hotels over the years and never been disappointed.  Their property in Bali is one of their few resort hotels.  When we arrived we were announced by the ringing of a gong. The open-air lobby looked out to the sea. It was a great beginning to a great stay. 

Our room was lovely and had a balcony with a view of the sea and pool. The huge pool was especially wonderful. It conformed to the landscape with pools on several levels that could be accessed by steps or a water slide. There were many private lounge areas some shaded by frangipani trees.  I like that instead of everyone gathered around one pool. There were plenty of activities. The 18-hole Greg Norman golf course was especially popular. There were incredible views of the Indian Ocean that could have been distracting to some golfers. Uniquely, instead of the traditional male caddies there were caddy girls clad in light blue with rice paddy hats making for a unique photo opportunity. The golf course is located next to working rice paddies where guests can learn the different stages of rice growing and even try their hand at harvesting.

I am not a golfer and it was not rice harvesting time so I took a break from the pool and went to the Nirwana Spa where I had a traditional Balinese massage. Balinese massage is very relaxing unlike Thai massage which John claims is like getting “beat up in slow motion.”   One of the enticing views from the resort is Tanah Lot Temple. The name in Balinese means, “land in the water;” and, that is exactly what it is. The 15^th century temple, one of seven sea temples on the Balinese coast, is on a large rock cut off from the mainland during high tide.  One morning we walked along the coast trail from the resort to the Hindu temple. The trail passed through the golf course and by the rice fields.  The temple is a popular tourist spot but access to the temple is only permitted on special feast days.

Balinese food is excellent so John and I signed up for Pan Pacific’s Balinese cooking class where we learned to make Indonesian Salad, Minced Fish Satays, and Banana Fritters. Each evening we made sure we joined other guests at Sunset Lounge to watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean. We did not arrive on time for the Wednesday weekly Balinese cultural show. Next time! The Pan Pacific Nirwana is a “life is good” kinda’ place.

Consider spending the winter is SE Asia

The first time I ran across people doing a long-stay at a resort was in Penang, Malaysia at theEngland, who were staying 2-5 months.  I was impressed and thought it was a unique situation.  But I have found out since that it is a common practice for Europeans from many countries to winter in SE Asia at resorts for a month or more.
Parkroyal Hotel.  The guests were Europeans, mainly from

This year we stayed three weeks at the Regent Beach Hotel in Cha-am, Thailand. This is the fourth time we have stayed there.  It was previously a Holiday Inn property but they are no longer partners.  I wish they were so I could get Priority Points to facilitate a stay at other InterContinental properties. 

I think long-stays are an excellent alternative to wintering in Florida or some other warm destination. The advantages are many. No second property to care for thus eliminating the cost of utilities, upkeep, and possibility of a mortgage. And, we like the fact that we can long-stay at different locations.

We met a couple from England who stay two months at the Regent before Christmas, return to England to celebrate the holidays with their family, and then spends three months after Christmas at the resort.  They have been doing this for many years. They, like others, opted for just the room when negotiating their rate.

Others have breakfast included in their rate.  We love the extensive breakfast buffet at the Regent

which offers items to please many ethnic groups.  There are eggs, pancakes, cereal, along with grilled tomatoes and beans which the English like, salad, fresh fruit, noodle soup (fish, chicken or pork), rice, and usually a couple of curry dishes.  Something for everyone.

Most of the day is spend around the pool (there are two) or walking along the beach but the Regent Hotel offers a variety of daily activities plus there are things to do in the area, the most popular being golf.  We have visited a former Thai king’s summer residence and the night market where all kinds of things are offered at a bargain price.  In the evening we take turns dining at the hotel, a restaurant on the beach or walking 10-minutes into a small town where there are a bevy of restaurants, shops and mini-marts. Most meals cost less than $10 per person.

Most of the long-stay guests at the Regent Hotel in Cha’am are from England, Finland, and Germany. We have never run into any Americans.  Resorts usually offer their long-stay and returning guests a special Thank You Reception once a month.  An invitation was sent to our room and we gladly accepted.  The reception was excellent, nicely decorated on a grassy area near the bay, a duo band, and there was a wide selection of beverages and food.  One of the staff members performed a Thai dance for us.

Anyone considering a long-stay at a resort should contact the selected hotel to negotiate the best price.  We have discarded the option of renting a condo where we have to cook and clean – just like home – and many don’t have pools and other resort amenities. When March arrives it was like a mass exodus as the Europeans bid their farewells and returned to Europe. It seems like such a stress free way to winter and less expensive than buying an “winter” home.

Insider Program at IC Hua Hin

I am always amazed at how easy it is to navigate the world.  We arrived in Thailand from and stayed at the Amari Don Maung Airport Hotel for the night. We could walk to from the airport via a overhead walkway. In the morning, after a great breakfast, our driver from Sawadee-Travel picked us up for the three-hour drive south of Bangkok to Hua Hin. He even stopped along the way so I could take pictures of the area where salty water is evaporating leaving just the salt.  The InterContinental Hotel Hua Hin is a beautiful property with a very unique pool – many levels, in-water lounges, and Jacuzzi spots between the covered lounges that jut out into the pool. The first night we went to the rooftop lounge by the beach. The sky was black but we were dazzled by large, candlelit lanterns that had been sent aloft and went slowly drifting by. The staff said they were for wishes people made on Monkey Mountain where there is a Buddhist temple.
Myanmar

There are many things I like about the hotels in the InterContinental family, because they have a wide range of hotels – price wise – and they are found all over the world.  But that is not all.  The InterContinental Hotels love to offer “The Insider’s View” to help their guests experience the local culture.  One morning I got up at dawn and walked down to the beach to “make merit” by following a practice that many faithful Thais follow daily. They offer Buddhist monks “alms” of foods, drink or basic provisions, thus earning merit which adds to a person’s spiritual growth. The hotel had prepared a package of food in a special woven basket for the monks that walk along the beach in the early morning.  In return I received his blessing. When I returned to my room and looked out I noticed people doing yoga on the lawn.  I guess I missed that!  Next time.

Actually there are a lot of things to do in the area: shopping for bargains at the night market, playing

golf, and visiting local religious sites.  During the day we noticed many colorful kites in the blue skies.  There were from the kite surfers.  John walked down the beach to check it out.  He’d like to try it out but we were not staying long enough to warrant taking the lesson so I guess that is another reason to return.  John learned that it is easier than surfboarding an he thought it sounded like fun.

One day we took a cooking class and make three Thai recipes including Mango Seafood Salad. The lesson started with a trip to the wet market in a tuk-tuk. However, trust the InterContinental Hotel to have a “fancy” tuk tuk not the usual three-wheel, motorcycle type vehicle.   A trip to a wet market is always fascinating.  We expect to see fresh fruit, vegetables and fish but we always see things we have never seen before.  This time we saw fresh turmeric, taro root, and other items that our guide Chef Worawut, was able to identify and also explain how they were used. He then bought fresh prawns for our cooking class. Later in the day we met Chef Worawut in the hotel’s Thai restaurant for our cooking class. Cooking classes are a great way to experience a local culture and tasty, too.   

Visiting Myanmar's capital - Nay Pyi Taw

I had read and heard about the new Myanmar capital of Nay Pyi Taw where construction started in 2002 but had been told that it was in a restricted zone so tourists were not permitted to visit.  That has changed. Information on travel to Nay Pyi Taw, referred to as NPT, is often out-dated, sketchy and misleading.  Many travel agents still claim that visiting NPT is not allowed.  Before I left the United States I called the Myanmar embassy in Washington and learned that tourists are now permitted to visit NPT.

We hired a car and driver to get to NPT which is about 200 miles north of Yangon.  The excellent, four-lane, arrow-straight, divided highway was virtually empty of vehicles so we were surprised to find a multi-restaurant service area midway.  The glow on the horizon was the first indication we were getting close to our destination. The city of Nay Pyi Taw is ablaze with lights in the evening with beautiful roundabouts centered with huge flower sculptures and colorful twinkle lights. We stayed at the Aureum Hotel in the Hotel Zone where, like the rest of the city, there is a building frenzy. 

Most streets are multi-lanes with the dividers nicely planted with flowers and trees – and virtually empty. No traffic jams here – yet. However, it is said to be one of the fastest growing cities in the world. The city is huge and hot. The Gem Museum and Gems Mart was very close to the hotel so it was our first stop where gems from Myanmar are on display. The “jewel” of the city is the Uppatasanti Pagoda which is nearly as tall as the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Luckily, for me, there are four elevators to reach the top so there was no need to climb the steps in the blistering sun. The inside of the pagoda is stunning with four Buddha statures facing the cardinal directions and circling the dome are the plaques stating the Noble Truths while on the floor level large stone reliefs tell the story of Buddha.  The city may not be restricted any more but getting near the governmental buildings is. The road leading to the complex is extremely wide without a divider leading me to believe that it was designed to accommodate massive parades. Viewed from afar the complex looks huge and architecturally pleasing. 

Although it is within the city, it was a 40 minute ride (no traffic) to the National Landmark Garden. The $10 admission included a one-hour golf cart ride with a guide. While it is not 100% completed it highlights all eight main ethnic groups in Myanmar with reproductions of their most notable tourist attraction, plus there is a hotel and several areas with amusement rides. In the “cool” of the evening we went to the Water Fountain Garden with many ponds, fountains, and gardens all colorfully displayed.  One large water fountain had music videos projected on it to the enjoyment of the people who sat and listened. I think we were the most memorable moments for many of the visiting locals because several wanted to have their picture taken with us.

 The car we hired broke down causing some concern about how we were going to return to Yangon so we booked a flight back to Yangon. The airport is state-of-the-art and empty. It, along with the city, was certainly built with the future in mind.