There is a lot to do in Fort Robinson, NE

 Crazy Horse’s real name was “His-horse-is-crazy.” He was the leader of the Oglala Lakotas and led a group of like-minded Native Americans in a fight against the United States government protesting the government’s encroachments on their land and the effect it was having on the culture of the Lakota people. He and his followers finally surrendered to U.S. troops and Crazy Horse was imprisoned at Fort Robinson. On September 5, 1877 Crazy Horse was bayoneted to death by a guard who said he was trying to escape. 

Crazy Horse is just one of the unique stories of Fort Robinson which is located near Crawford, Nebraska. When I think of a fort I envision a massive stone or wooden fort encircled by a moat.  Fort Robinson is not like that.  Today it is a destination where people can stay, dine, tour, enjoy sports, and even go to a Broadway-like production. The Visitors Center is in a 1909 red brick building with white pillars looking a bit like a southern estate mansion but was actually the men’s barracks.   

The fort’s museum is fascinating.  There are Native American artifacts but even more interesting to me were the displays dealing with the African American cavalry units. The 9th Cavalry was one of the U.S. Army’s regiments set aside for black enlisted men. They

participated in numerous frontier campaigns plus they fought alongside of Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders in the attack on San Juan Hill, Cuba. Nicknamed “Buffalo Soldiers,” besides fighting while serving at Fort Robinson they captured horse and cattle thieves, built roads, and protected the U.S. mail, stagecoaches and wagon trains. 

In 1942 Fort Robinson became a War Dog Training Center. Nearly

5,000 dogs, half of all the dogs used by the army in WW II, were trained at the center as guard, scout, messenger, and sled dogs. The training took about 8 to 12 weeks. The center was deactivated n 1946.

The museum also has a display dealing with the time during WW II when the fort became the temporary home of about 3000 POWs.  They helped maintain the fort, cared for the animals, and did agricultural work.  With so many American men off fighting the war there was a

labor shortage. POWs were given postcards to mail home telling their family where they were and that they were in good health. One interesting display shows POW Dietrich Kohl in his uniform before he donated it to the museum in 1996. 
I wish I had time to go tubing on the Niobrara River and then attend the Post Playhouse’s production of “Mama Mia.”  There is never enough time to do everything and there is always so much to see.  

Nearby the fort John and I visited the Fur Trading Museum. There is always a lot written about those who settled the West but not so much is written about the people who paved the way for them – the fur trappers. The trappers explored the area and made contact with the Native American. The museum depicts the time “...when skins were money.” Fur trading is America’s oldest business and made John Jacob Astor America’s first

millionaire. Outdoor displays included a trading post and one display showed how 10 tanned buffalo hides were compressed into 2 by 3-foot bales for easier shipping.

Life on the frontier was not easy.  I wonder how I would have fared when faced with such hardships. 

Western Nebraska - Carhenge and High Plains Homestead

Heading south on Route 89 toward Alliance in Western Nebraska, what before my wondering eyes should appear? Carhenge rising out of the wheat fields! Carhenge is an assemblage of cars to look like Stonehenge built to scale and painted gray.  Can’t make it to Stonehenge in England for the solar eclipse then consider Carhenge. On August 21 at 11:49 (MT) Carhenge will be in the direct path of the total solar Eclipse. 

I always wonder how people come up with such unique ideas. The attraction is free so it wasn’t for money; actually, it must have been an expensive undertaking. It seems Jim Reinders had once lived in England and studied Stonehenge.  In what must have been an unique family get-together upon the death of Reinders’ father in 1982, relatives decided to build a memorial to him. Five years later 35 friends and relative gather to build the memorial which they dedicated at the June 1987 summer solstice

with champagne, poetry songs and a play written by the family. Thirty-eight vintage cars were place in a 96-foot circle, some upright in pits five feet deep and others welded together to form the circle, the sprayed it gray, the color of Stonehenge. The idea may not have been original as there used to be Autohenge in Oshawa,

Canada. It was an advertising gimmick and has been removed but there are also other “henge” replicas but none as famous as Carhenge. The three foreign cars that were part of the original were replaced with models from Detroit. On a hill above Carhenge is the Ford Seasons, four Ford cars painted to suggest the Nebraska landscape’s seasonal changes as the wheat goes from green in the spring to white in winter. At first local citizens wanted that “junkyard” removed now they proudly advertise “Alliance: Home of Carhenge.” 

Anyone considering visiting Carhenge, especially for the total eclipse should consider staying at High Plains Homestead, another local creation.  Mike Kesselring and his family have rescued homestead-era buildings creating a typical homestead village with a general store, tavern, accommodations, blacksmith shop, a jail, a one-room

homestead house, and more are in the works.  Visitors can tie up their horse for the night and/or just stop by for one of their “cowboy” cooked meals. Mike cooked us an awesome meal. You have to look for it but there is also a swimming pool surrounded by a high wooded fence so it doesn’t intrude on the ambiance of the place. There is even internet. Some

of the quaint but rustic rooms are aptly named (and decorated) “Cowboy” and “Saloon Girl.” They were all occupied so we stayed in the cabin with two bedrooms, kitchen, washer and dryer, and more.  I would have liked to stay longer. John and I enjoyed the evening sunset, saying goodnight to the horses and buffalos, and gazing at a zillion stars.  In the morning we went to Toadstool Park, named for the unique

rock formations, where a group of ranchers prepare a “cowboy” cookout breakfast. They cooked while we walked out to look at the unique rock formations. The local ranchers have formed nebraskahighcountry.com to promote the area, their accommodations, and provide a variety of experiences such as a trail ride, fossil hunting, and hiking.  

People driving through NW Nebraska often say “there’s nothing there.” Looks are deceiving.  There is a lot to see and do but it is necessary to get off the highway.

Scotts Bluff, Oregon Trail, & Pony Express

 “Go West, young man, and grow with the country” wrote Horace Greeley in 1865 in the “New York Tribune.”  He was encouraging Americans to take advantage of the Homestead Act whereby, in exchange for a small filing fee, settlers were given 160 acres of public land.  People were already moving west.  It

was part of what some thought was America’s Manifest Destiny, the belief that the U.S. should reach from ocean to ocean. Before 1.6 million homesteaders moved west there were over 400,000 who followed the 2,170 mile route from Missouri to Oregon and California braving everything from disease to accidents to rushing river crossings and many other hardships. Most walked and, keep in mind, that they had to get to Missouri first; many did so via the Erie Canal. 

Chimney Rock was one of the many landmarks along the Oregon

Trail. Pioneers could see it several days before they arrived.  When John and I visited Chimney Rock National Historical Site, park ranger Loren Pospisil, said, “What makes Chimney Rock is not the rock but the people who passed by here.” It is one of the most mentioned landmarks in the traveler’s journals. The next major landmark was Scotts Bluff and the adjacent Mitchell Pass. From here settlers continued to Fort

Laramie and the hard part – when they were exhausted and often sick – through the mountains.  Beside the Visitor Center, there are covered wagons with pioneer-clad docents to tell more tales of the journey.  I even got to try some hardtack, a staple food because it didn’t spoil. I couldn’t help but think of Catherine Sager who, after making it to Oregon, wrote “Across the Plains in 1844.” It was at Scotts Bluff that the wagon slipped breaking Catherine’s leg.  Later her mother had a baby making it a family of seven children.  Both her parents died leaving her 14-year-old brother to lead the seven of them to Oregon. Amazing! And, that is just one story.

We also visited the nearby Legacy of the Plains Museum which

covered everything from the Native Americans to present day farming.  One video display included a saying found on a deserted shack near Chadron, “30 miles to water, 20 miles to wood, 10 miles to Hell, and I gone there for good.” We were fortunate because we got to meet Casey and Matt Debus, members of the National Pony Express Association.  The Pony Express was only in operation for 18 months but played a

significant role in the history of the West.  Riders were young, had to be less than 125 pounds, had to take an oath of loyalty, and were given a Bible to carry. Casey gave us a riding demonstration and with her father showed us how the mochila (mail bag) was transferred from horse to horse.  Three of the four pockets of the mochila were locked to insure

letters arrived without being tampered with. The riders rode 1800 miles from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Sacramento, California in 10 days. Besides the Oregon settlers and the Pony Express, it was the way west for gold seekers, Mormons, traders and other adventurers. 

The Fur Trade Museum in Chadron depicts the time “...when skins were money.” It is America’s oldest business and made John Jacob Astor America’s first millionaire. Outdoor displays included a trading post and one display showed how 10 tanned buffalo hides were compressed into a 2x3-foot bale for easier shipping. The mystique of the West lives on.

Zoos are the best places to watch animals

I, like many people, enjoy seeing animals in their natural habitat and have done so in many places. John and I went on safari in Kenya where we saw thousands of wildebeests and zebras migrating. I was most impressed with the height of the giraffes. When I tell people that we have spent a lot of time over

the years in the rainforest I always add that we have more wildlife in our backyard than we ever saw in the jungle.  John saw a snake once in Costa Rice and we had to pay for a tour to see a sloth. The best place to really see and observe animals is in a zoo. We have been to many zoos in the United States and in several countries. There is always something new and interesting to see and learn. 


One of the best zoos is in Syracuse, the Rosamond Gifford Zoo,

and it is open 362 days a year. They have lions, and tigers and bears and more. One of the most unique primates at the Rosamond Gifford Zoo is the Golden Lion Tamarin from the coastal forests of Brazil. They are on the endangered species list with an estimated wild population of about 3,200 and less than 500 in zoos. They are small with beautiful red manes hence the “lion” name. The zoo offers a variety of programs for all ages. 

The Cleveland Metroparks Zoo, a 183-acre zoo in Cleveland, is another all-season zoo. The Zoo is divided into several areas: Australian Adventure; African Savanna; Northern Trek; The Primate, Cat & Aquatics Building; The RainForest; and Waterfowl Lake. Along with gorillas, big cats, and all the expected zoo animals, the Australian Adventure is a fascinating eight-acre exhibit. A train ride takes visitors past kangaroos and wallabies that roam freely in Wallaby Walkabout and by Kookaburra Station. The Reinberger Homestead is fashioned after a traditional 19th century sheep station offering a peek into Australian home life. Cleveland is always a good destination choice with many museums and attractions.

One of the largest and most progressive zoos in the world is the

famous San Diego Zoo in California with more than 4,000 animals and 800 species. The Skyfari aerial trip offers spectacular views of the zoo but it is just one way to tour the zoo. There is also a miniature train and guided bus tour. There are many programs and unique things to do such enjoying a buffet breakfast while watching the koala colony in their home, the Australian Outback. Watch the keeper feed the koalas their breakfast while you enjoy yours. 

The Alabama Golf Coast Zoo is called “The Little Zoo that Could” because is the only zoo in recorded US history that has ever staged a full scale evacuation for a natural disaster (they actually completed three zoo evacuations - for Hurricanes Ivan, Dennis and Katrina). During our visit to the zoo I loved the close encounters with the baby white Bengal Tigers and playing in the enclosure with lemurs.  They really are “leaping lemurs.” You can’t do that in the wild. 


When we were in Nebraska we visited the Lincoln’s Children’s Zoo. I don’t think there is any such thing as a children’s only zoo. In fact, sometimes places that promote to children offer the best learning opportunities. They let visitors pet critters like turtles and lizards plus there are usually animal feeding stations.

Visiting Lincoln, Nebraska

When Nebraska became a state in 1867, Lincoln became the capital of Nebraska instead of Omaha, the territorial capital. Today the city is a destination with art, nature, history, and a myriad of things to enjoy. 

1.The Capitol: Rising from the boxlike base is the 400-foot Tower of the Plains topped by a 19-foot bronze “The Sower.” It is the second tallest U.S. state capitol. Don’t miss the panoramic view from the top of the tower. Inside, there are mosaic floors, paintings, and murals depicting the Native American and pioneers heritage. 

2. History Museum: The museum boasts 10,000 years of history.

The First Nebraskans section depicts their clothing, food, pottery and a Pawnee earth lodge circa 1865. Explore Nebraska’s road to statehood with its pitfalls and successes along the way including Nebraska’s complicated position in the Civil War and the impact the Homestead Act had on the state’s development. 

3. Art: The Sheldon Museum of Art extensive collection includes works of art by Mary Cassatt, Edward Hopper, Georgia O'Keeffe, Jackson Pollock, and Andy Warhol. Great Plains Art Museum is a treasure trove of art depicting life on the plains. The Kiechel Fine Arts Gallery specializes in contemporary and 20th century Regionalism art. 

4. Gardens:  Don’t miss the Sunken Gardens. It was a

Depression-era project that turned a dumpsite into beautiful gardens with ponds and sculptures. It was completely renovated in 2005. Outside the Sheldon Museum of Art the gardens are dotted with outstanding sculptures. The University of Nebraska has more than two dozen garden areas that show off the best plants for Nebraska.

5. Live Arts: The Lied Center for Performing Arts is the place for Broadway musicals, country singers, jazz musicians, and international dance groups.  Haymarket Theater and Nebraska Youth Theater offer excellent high-quality productions featuring local students.  The Zoo Bar is a blues nightclub styled around the Chicago blues clubs. 

6. Lincoln Children’s Zoo: The zoo is fun and educational for

the young and young at heart.  The zoo has a wide variety of mammals, reptiles, and insects with many learning experiences. Learn how to lure a butterfly to your finger, pet a lizard, watch the seals perform and get close to a white-handed gibbon. 

7. Sports: Be part of a ‘red out’ by donning a red Cornhuskers T-shirt and root for the home team at Memorial Stadium. Watch your favorite sport event of the unique Cube, a huge LED set of screens, in the Railyard. Tee off at one of the golf courses or rent a bike to explore the miles of trails in the local parks.

8. The Haymarket: The historic district is a one-stop destination

for shopping and dining. The revitalized area is an eight-block area that includes many historic warehouses and the Lincoln Railroad Station that are now home to trendy shops and great places to eat from quick bites to fine dining.

9. Unique: Check out the unique attractions. In the Haymarket District visit Licorice International featuring ‘everything licorice.’ At the American Museum of Speed with historic competition vehicles on display and an amazing collection of automobilia.  The International Quilt Museum has one of the world’s largest collections with more than 4,000 quilts.

10. Day trips: Use Lincoln as a base and visit the Arbor Day Farm and the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center. Don’t miss the historic village of Brownville, Indian Cave State Historical Park in Shubert, and Homestead National Monument of America in Beatrice. 

Learning about Homesteaders while in Nebraska

When John and I were in Nebraska we learned more about the

impact of the Homestead Act of 1862 on America’s Westward Movement. The video “Land of Dreams” told how the lure of free land and a better life drew1.6 million people from all over the world to unsettled parts of America.   The romanticism touted by promoters did not mention the hardships and other problems.  Homesteaders had to “Prove up” the land by building a home and planting crops.  However many had never farmed and didn’t even own farm equipment, but most toiled and survived.  

There were some who became discouraged and left. One such disenchanted soul wrote upon leaving, that the Great American Desert is “where it rains grasshoppers, fire and destruction.” About 40 percent “proved up” their land and earned a deed. Homesteaders had to make use of what they found in a land that was virtually a sea of grass. They used sod bricks for construction, buffalo chips for fuel and the ceaseless wind to pump water from the ground. Under the Homestead Act 160 acres were given to any applicant who was the head of a household and 21 years old provided that the person settled on the land for five years and then paid a small filing fee. If settlers wished to obtain title earlier, they could do so after six months by paying $1.25 an acre. 

Those who struggled to survive built a community and that meant a

school. The school also served as a community center.  I visited the Freeman School just west of Homestead National Monument’s visitor center. The Freeman School was named in honor for Daniel Freeman the first homesteader in Blakely Township, and perhaps the nation, and upon whose land Homestead National Monument of America is located and one of the people who helped to construct the school. I was surprised to learn that the Homestead Act was in effect for 123 years offering land deals in 30 states. In 1976 it was repealed in the coterminous 48 states but claims were allowed in Alaska until 1986 but the last homestead claim was filed by Ken Deardorff in 1974 for 80 acres on the Stony River in Alaska. 

Homesteaders were diverse. The National Park is actively searching for descendants of homesteaders. At the park’s educational center they had pennants honoring famous descendants of homesteaders. Included were Lawrence Welk, George Washington Carver, Whoopi Goldberg, Laura Ingles Wilder, Chet Huntley, and Willa Cather. Willa Cather was born in Virginia and was 7 when her family moved to Nebraska.  She late wrote in “My Antonia” that when people got off the train they found themselves in a sea of grass.  “There was nothing but land; not a country at all, but the material out of which countries are made.  I felt I left the world behind.” 

We stopped for wonderful lunch of mac and cheese at the Black

Crow in the nearby town of Beatrice topping off a great day. 

It often pays to buy a National Park Pass if you plan to visit more than one park. It allows holder of the pass and three accompanying adults to enjoy the park for free.  I think the best deal the government has ever offered is the Senior Access Pass.  For $10 if offers lifetime access to more than 2,000 sites for those 62 and older.  John says, “I never leave home without it. 

Visiting Lincoln, Nebraska

As one might suspect Lincoln, the capital of Nebraska, was renamed

for the assassinated President Abraham Lincoln.  Originally it was called Lancaster. The name change was controversial because there were citizens who felt the South should have won the Civil War. I toured the state capital which is known as the “Tower of the Plains” and, as the name suggests, it has a tower that is capped with a 15,000 pound bronze statue of a man sowing grain that is visible for miles around.  It is the second-tallest U.S. statehouse, surpassed only by the Louisiana Capitol and until 1969 it was the tallest building in Nebraska.  While the exterior is rather plain the interior has some wonderful architectural features.  

The mosaics on the floor and ceiling are beautiful.  There are murals that depict important events in Nebraska history.  I had trouble figuring out one of the murals which had a swath of white across it.  I should have guessed – it was snow – but I asked the guide about it. It recalls the Blizzard of 1888, and while, by Upstate New York standards, not much snow fell the wind reached 56 miles per hour and the temperature dropped to 36 below zero. And, it all happened quickly and unexpectedly.  There were many interesting features including the unicameral legislature and found it interesting that people running for a senate seat cannot advertise their political party affiliation nor is it indicated on the ballot.  Hum… not a bad idea. 

John and I found the city’s Haymarket District to be another revitalized Historic District, in part through the National Main Street Program. We took a walking tour of the area which at one time consisted mainly of warehouses.  Today is a vibrant area of trendy restaurants, hotels, condominium, retail shops with the new Pinnacle Bank Arena as an anchor.  We had a wonderful dinner at the JTK Restaurant located in the old railroad station. 

The Lincoln Children’s Zoo is actually an adult-friendly zoo much to our liking.  It offers an interactive and a personal exposure to their critters. People can pet rabbits, turtles, frogs and have up-close animal experiences.  The zoo may not be large but it has a wonderful selection of animals including some of our favorites – red pandas (which are not really pandas but more like a raccoon), dromedary camels, llamas, ring tailed lemurs, Golden Lion Tamarin, and prairie dogs.  Much to the amusement of all of us one of the zoo staff had trained a flying squirrel.  She would place it on a branch and walk away.  The squirrel would glide to her and crawl into her pocket.  Feeding time for the Humboldt penguins was not only fun to watch but the accompanying talk was informative.  

A do-not-miss while in Lincoln are the Sunken Gardens.  The

gardens were established in 1930 as a Depression-era project on a former abandoned dumpsite. In 2003 the gardens got a new facelift. Called “Polish the Gem” the gardens are outstanding and were a blaze of color when we were there.  The gardens are beautiful and tranquil and the park is now handicap accessible plus the lily ponds and cascading water features were restored with new sculptures added.  


One night we had an awesome dinner at The Oven which has an incredible wine cellar. John and I had Mulligatawny Soup, and while it is a traditional dish of India the owner is from Bhutan where he had cooked for the royal family.