Visiting Northern Wales

Looking for a destination in the United Kingdom that is often overlooked?  Check out Northern Wales. Northern Wales is truly enchanting from the rolling green hills dotted with sheep to romantic castles and from the seaside to the mountains. Driving is easy with little traffic and gorgeous scenery.  Northern Wales is truly enchanting. 

Beaumaris Castle, begun in 1295, was the last and largest of the castles built in Wales by King Edward I. King Edward is not the most popular person as his takeover of Wales was the end of their independence.  Even though the castle was never finished it is considered to be one of the most technologically perfect castles with an inner ring of defenses surrounded by an outer ring making it nearly impregnable. The "murder holes" above the huge wooden gates could rain a heavy crossfire of arrows on the attackers followed dousing them with boiling oil. Today swans and ducks serenely glide along the waters of the moat.

Penrhyn Castle is a neo-Norman castle built in the early 1800s

covering earlier structures except for the spiral staircase. The owners made their money, in part, from mining slate from the nearby mountain. One of the interesting items is a one-ton slate bed made for Queen Victoria.  The view and grounds are lovely. 

Not too far away was the impressive walled city of Conwy also built by Edward I. He brought in English settlers and instituted English laws showing no respect for Welsh culture.  In fact, the local Welsh people were forbidden to enter the castle walls except at the bidding of the English inhabitants to deliver goods or to work.  Nearby Plas Mawr is an Elizabethan Town House built between 1576 and 1585. It is one of the best-preserved town houses of the era in Great Britain with bold red and white decor in the main rooms. The wealthy always live well regardless of the time period.

Not to miss is Portmeirion, a fantasy village that was designed and

built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis to resemble an Italian village. Today there are shops, a spa, a beach, a pool, excellent dining and delightful accommodations. Surrounding the village are 70 acres of exotic woodlands with easy to follow trails and coastal walks. During the day the village is bustling with activity but a special hush descends over the village when the day-trippers leave making the place seem magical.  

Nearby are Bodnant Gardens, considered one of the most beautiful gardens in the UK, and Trefriw Woolen Mills that has been in operation since 1859 making traditional Welsh bedspreads, tweeds and tapestry.   In Llanuwchllyn take a ride along the lake to the town and back on the narrow gauge steam train.

Ruthin Castle Hotel started out as a Welsh wooden fort in 1277 and over the years was altered to become the large red fort-like castle of today. According to legend, King Arthur disguised himself for a romantic liaison with his mistress at Ruthin. Unfortunately he was recognized and by an old adversary. Arthur had him executed on a stone block now displayed in the Town Square. Peacocks put on their proud display in the gardens.

In Llangollen take a two-hour motorized canal boat trip crosses the awe-inspiring Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 126 feet above the Dee River. Only one canal boat can cross the aqueduct at a time. It is an amazing 1007 feet long supported by 18 stone pillars. It was built between 1795 and 1805 and is a World Heritage site. 

Great train trips

There is something about the mournful sound of a train that calls for one to hop aboard and see the world. Some trains are legendary such as the Alaskan trip from Anchorage to Fairbanks and the Australian Ghan that now goes from Darwin to Adelaide. There are many trains worldwide that offer excellent experiences. Some travel short distances while others cover a whole continent.

1. Denali, Alaska: Maybe you won’t see any of Alaska’s famed wildlife on the ride between Anchorage and Fairbanks but scenery from the double decked dome rail cars will mesmerize as it enters the Nenana River Canyon and crosses the Tanana River on one of the world’s longest single-span bridges.
2. Fort Bragg Smoke Train: The California train chugs through towering trees, tunnels, over bridges and past open meadows on what is known as the “Redwood Route” following the same route it has since 1885. On the Northspur Route a barbecue in the redwood forest is included.
3. Polar Express: Nearly every state has a Polar Express that takes the young and young-at-heart to the North Pole while the book of the same name is read, cookies are served, and songs sung. When it arrives at Santa’s workshop, the jolly fellow boards the train and gives those who believe a bell – just like in the book.
4. Verde Canyon: Located in Arizona near Jerome and Sedona the train runs from Clarkdale to Perkinsville through the walls of Verde Canyon, near ancient Native American sites, with bald eagles watching from their nests.
5. Greenfield Village: Some historic villages have incorporated trains as part of preserving their heritage. Such is the case of Henry Ford’s Greenfield Village in Michigan where visitors can tour the village on a train pulled by one of the village’s historic steam or diesel locomotives.
6. Adirondack Railroad: Hop on board the train in Utica, New York, and head to Thendara through the forests, past pristine rivers, breathing the fresh mountain air while enjoying the beauty of the six-million acre Adirondack Park. Relive the golden age of railroading when the Adirondacks played host to the rich and famous on their way to the Great Camps.
7. Strasburg, Pennsylvania: Ride through Pennsylvania Dutch Country on the Strasburg Railroad that started in 1832. It didn’t purchase its first passenger car until 1861 when President Lincoln made his inaugural train ride to nearby Lancaster and nearly 5,000 people showed up to cheer for Lincoln during his four-minute stop in Leaman.
8. Peru’s Hiram Bingham: One of the most luxurious train trips is aboard the Orient Express train to the mystical ruins of Machu Picchu. The day starts sipping mimosas while watching folk dances followed by gourmet meals with a guided tour of the ruins, along with the excellent service one comes to expect of the Orient Express.
9. The Little Trains of Wales: There are several narrow gauge steam railways in Wales, some of which have been in operation for over 100 years. They have been lovingly restored and maintained. They offer a leisurely ride through the beautiful countryside, past lakes to small picturesque villages.
10. Australia’s Legendary Ghan: One way to get the feel of the immensity of Australia is to take the Ghan between Adelaide and Darwin witnessing the varied landscape and traveling through the vast barrenness of the Outback. The entire trip of nearly 2000 miles takes about 24 hours.

Enjoying LLangollen, Wales

John and I were impressed with the diversity of things to do in Northern Wales – all within a short drive. We visited castles, national parks, a woolen mill, unique villages, and took a canal boat ride in the lovely village of Llangollen. In Llangollen there are several canal trips available including a horse-drawn one, which was the trip we wanted to take. However, fate intervened when we arrived at the wharf. Their two-hour motorized boat trip that crosses the aqueduct – the last of the day – was about to leave so we bought tickets. A short bus ride took us to a picturesque dock where we boarded the narrow canal boat. The trip was beautiful as it passed through the countryside where people were hiking, biking, kayaking and awe inspiring as it crossed the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 126 feet above the Dee River. Only one canal boat can cross the aqueduct at a time as it is extremely narrow. It is an amazing 1007 feet long supported by 18 stone pillars. It was built between 1795 and 1805 and is a World Heritage site. I wished we had time to try their other canal trips; they have one to Horseshoe Falls and the horse-drawn one.

We loved the small, quaint town of Llangollen. We stayed at the Cornerstones B&B in the center of town. It is made up of three connected town houses built in the 1500s but with all the comforts of today. What would the original inhabitants think of electric lights, TV, and Internet? I could have sat for hours looking out our window at the rapids of the River Dee. For dinner we walked to the Corn Mill Restaurant where flour was stone ground for seven hundred years - until 1974 when it was turned into a restaurant. The restaurant, located on the River Dee has huge exposed beams and a working waterwheel that can be viewed behind the bar or through floor windows in the upper dining area. The menu features many locally sourced items such as lamb and trout. Across the river is the railroad station where steam trains still arrive.

Llangollen is where we dropped off our rental car. Actually what we did was left the keys with Carol, the Cornerstone Inn keeper, hoping the rental car people would show up to get it – I guess they did. We are always happy to return a rental car in the same condition as when we picked it up, especially after navigating on the left side of the road. The roads in Wales are all good albeit some of the country roads are a tad bit narrow but the traffic is light. The Welsh are very proud of their heritage; even so, I was surprised to learn that Welsh Gaelic is the primary language in many of the elementary schools even though English is the language everyone speaks. All of Wales seemed very relaxed and comfortable to us. It is a place we would like to return to explore more slowly than we did this time. The countryside pace suits us. Before our visit we had heard many travelers singing the praise of Wales – now we understand why. The last morning in Wales we walked down the street from the Cornerstones B&B to the bus stop where we boarded the modern bus to Glasgow. Everything was so convenient.

Enchanting Trefriw, Portmeirion, and Ruthin, Wales

Portmeirion is a fantasy village that was designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975 to resemble an Italian village. Today there are shops, a spa, a beach, a pool, excellent dining and delightful accommodations - all of unique design. Surrounding the village are 70 acres of exotic woodlands with easy to follow trails and coastal walks. Pontmeirion is a popular attraction for day visitors but to really savor the ambiance of Portmeirion one needs to spend at least one night. During the day the village is bustling with activity but in the evening a blanket of peace settles over the fairytale land. We loved the special hush that descended over the village when the day-trippers left and it became “our” village. Our room was in the center of the village overlooking the main square. It was magical.

Portmeirion is a destination unto itself but there are several places to visit nearby. I will always remember Wales for its sheep and gardens. It seems that every house is adorned with beautiful flowers. One of the places we visited was Bodnant Gardens considered one of the most beautiful gardens in the UK. I was amazed at how many vehicles were in the parking lots and yet the 80 acres of gardens absorbed the visitors so that wandering the garden paths was very peaceful. The mild Welsh climate makes it possible for the gardens to have plants from all over the world.

Getting lost is part of any trip and sometimes it is the best way to see things. Our unplanned side trip took us along narrow relatively vehicle-free roads and then through Snowdonia National Park with wonderful views of the mountains and valleys. We stopped to visit Trefriw Woolen Mills that has been in operation since 1859 making traditional Welsh bedspreads, tweeds and tapestry. The small village is tucked into a pretty little valley.

From Portmeirion we drove to Llanuwchllyn where we took a train ride on one of the several restored steam trains in Wales. The trip along the lake to the town and back on the narrow gauge train was great. I was impressed with the loving care the volunteers lavished on their train. The conductor had polished the brass to a fare-thee-well.

In Ruthin we stayed in the Ruthin Castle Hotel that started out as a Welsh wooden fort in 1277 and over the years was altered to become the large red fort-like castle of today. According to legend, King Arthur disguised himself for a romantic liaison with his mistress at Ruthin. Unfortunately he was recognized and by an old adversary. Arthur had him executed on a stone block now displayed in the Town Square. The romantic legends are many including one about the “grey lady” who was executed for axing to death her husband’s girlfriend and now roams the battlements.

Walking through the gardens where the peacocks put on their proud display we tried to conger up images of what it may have been like in years gone by. We had a wonderful dinner in the hotel’s restaurant called Bertie’s, named for King Edward VII who was a lover of fine wines, whisky, brandy, champagne and gourmet cuisine. He was a frequent guest at Ruthin Castle. After dinner we went into the village to listen to a rehearsal of the famed, award-wining Ruthin Choir. The perfect ending of a perfect day.

Exploring the beautiful Isle of Anglesey, Wales

John and I are often impressed with the ease of getting around outside the United States be it within a country or between countries. From Dublin we to took the fast, modern ferry to Holyhead, Wales. The two-hour trip was lovely and relaxing. We stayed at Trearddur Bay Hotel located on the beautiful bay with the same name. It was a brilliant day making it perfect for wandering along the coast and the blue flag beach next to the hotel. When we asked where Prince William and Kate lived they pointed inland and said, “Over there.” Since I was sure we would not be invited to tea I left it at that. It would have been easy to stay at Trearddur Bay Hotel for days but our rental car was waiting at the hotel so in the morning we set out to explore Northern Wales. Northern Wales is a vista of rolling hills dotted with sheep – lots of sheep.

Beaumaris Castle, begun in 1295, was the last and largest of the castles to be built in Wales by King Edward I. King Edward is not the most popular person as his takeover of Wales was the end of their independence. Even though the castle was never finished it is considered to be one of the most technologically perfect castles with an inner ring of defenses surrounded by an outer ring making it nearly impregnable but it was never put to the test. Today swans and ducks serenely glide along the waters of the moat. However, entering the huge wooden gate we hardly noticed the "murder holes" above the door. If attackers ever made it through the rain of heavy crossfire of arrows they would be welcomed at the gate by being doused with boiling oil from the “murder holes.” War never has a pretty face.

We made a quick stop at Llanfair PG, which is the shortened way to refer to the town that has the longest place name in Europe and continued on to Penrhyn Castle. The neo-Norman castle was built in the early 1800s covering earlier structures save for the spiral staircase. The owners made their money, in part, from mining slate from the nearby mountain. One of the interesting items is a one-ton slate bed made for Queen Victoria. The view and grounds are lovely. It reminded me a bit of Singer and Boldt Castles in the 1000 Island area where the American wealthy wanted to have their very own castles.

Not too far away was the walled city of Conwy. I am always impressed by medieval cities that have retained much of their original structures. Conwy Castle was also built by Edward I. He brought in English settlers and instituted English laws showing no respect for Welsh culture. In fact, the local Welsh people were forbidden to enter the castle walls except at the bidding of the English inhabitants to deliver goods or to work. Our hotel, Castle Hotel, was on a cobbled street within the walls. Just a few steps from our hotel was Plas Mawr, an Elizabethan Town House built between 1576 and 1585. It is one of the best-preserved town houses of the era in Great Britain. I was surprised at the bold red and white décor of the main rooms. The wealthy always live well regardless of the time period.