Saipan Sweet Shrimp Kelaguen

When John and I are traveling we like to experience the local cuisine. We were surprised to find that Spam is a popular food item in Saipan. Saipan is the part of United States Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands. The native islanders are called Chamorros but over the years their culture has been infused with aspects from Spanish, Japanese, and American cultures. We found an interesting American addition to their culinary culture – Hormel’s Spam. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency and just a short walk away is the American Memorial Park and Museum detailing the Marianas Campaign of World War II.

On the walk back to the hotel from the museum we stopped for lunch at a small café and had the local favorite food – kelaguen. I opted for the Chicken Kelaguen but one of the choices was Spam Kelaguen. Micronesians love Spam which was imported by the U.S. Army during World War II and unlike other meats it wasn’t rationed and required no refrigeration consequently it made its way into the diets of local people where meat was not common. Many WW II soldiers who survived on Spam three times a day for months on end returned to the US vowing never to eat it again but it is popular in other parts of the world. The residents of Hawaii, Guam and the Northern Mariana Island consume the most Span to the rate of 16 cans per person per year. In Hawaii, Spam is so popular it is sometimes referred to as "The Hawaiian Steak.” The Hormel’s Chinese division that produces Spam is one of the most profitable parts of the company. It is so popular in Saipan that McDonald’s offers Spam with eggs and rice for breakfast.

At the Hyatt Regency our dinner started with a Saipan Sweet Shrimp Kelaguen appetizer for $11. It was served with delicious coconut flat bread. They offered to share their kelaguen recipe and invited us to watch Chef Zenn make coconut flat bread at one of the buffet’s show stations. To make coconut flat bread substitute coconut milk for regular milk in the recipe.

One day John and I took a 10-minute flight to the nearby island of Tinian, rented a car, and toured the island. Tinian is home to North Field which was the world’s biggest and busiest airport in 1945. It is from Tinian that planes departed with the atomic bombs that were dropped on Japan. Today North Field is a deserted weed-choked area with glass coverings over where the bombs were stored, some Japanese bunkers, and a few memorials. We stopped at a small restaurant near the airport for lunch – beef kelaguen for $7. We never tried the Spam kelaguen but the beef, chicken, and especially the shrimp kelaguen at the Hyatt, were excellent.

Saipan Sweet Shrimp Kelaguen

1/2 lb fresh shrimp whole, peeled, deveined, and par blanched (can substitute Spam, beef or chicken.)

Juice of 5 medium lemons

Salt to taste

1 1/2 tbs fresh coconut, grated

2 tsp scallions, chopped fine

3 red chilies, finely diced

In a mixing bowl marinate the shrimp with lemon juice and salt. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Add half of the coconut, scallions, and chili to the marinated shrimp and toss. Refrigerate another 30 minutes. Place in serving bowl. Garnish with remaining coconut, scallions, and chili. Serve with coconut flat bread.

Saipan and Tinian: American Paradises

Saipan is only a 40-minute flight from Guam and it, too, is American and extremely popular with Japanese and Korean tourists. We stayed at the Saipan Hyatt for two weeks and hated to leave. The hotel has a beautiful beach well-protected by a reef, a wonderful free-form pool surrounded by a tropical garden, and excellent dining options. It is walking distance to the American Memorial Park with a WW II War in the Pacific Museum, the weeklystreet fair, and duty-free shopping.

John and I not only enjoyed our days in the sun but we also visited three schools – Brilliant Star Montessori School, Whispering Palms private school, and Camacho Elementary School where we did a power point presentation on schools around the world. We enjoy visiting schools and meeting with the students. But the most fun was participating in an outreach program organized by the Hyatt. They brought in 28 high school seniors for a program on promoting tourism. Since Saipan is an American commonwealth they obviously speak English and follow the American curriculum.

Just a short walk from the Hyatt is the American Memorial Park and museum where we learned more about Saipan’s position during the War in the Pacific. The battle was intense and losses were great for such a small island. Unlike, Guam, which was American before WW II, Saipan and nearby Tinian were Japanese terrorities. At the north end of the island are Banzai and Suicide Cliffs where over 20,000 civilians killed themselves rather than be captured by the American troops who had been demonized by the Japanese military. Attempts by American soldiers to assure them they would not be mistreated basically went unheeded. The same awful situation occurred on nearby Tinian Island.

One day we flew to Tinian which is only a few miles from Saipan – a 15-minute flight including taxi time. We rented a car and drove to North Field where the Enola Gay and Bock’s Car B-29 bombers took off to drop the atomic bombs on Japan. We didn’t seen any other people or vehicles. Tinian is smaller than Saipan and a very quiet place. North Field has overgrown with only small glass coverings over where the atomic bombs were housed plus some memorials dedicated to groups who served on the island. In 1945 it was the world’s busiest airport. I was surprised that such a landmark event in history has not been taken care of; in fact, there is talk about doing away with the entire site.

Also on the island are the amazing latte stones called Taga House. They that are some of the largest in the Pacific. The 20-foot high stones are said to be the pillars which supported the home of the chief. Once again we have encountered massive stone structures that made us wonder how people could have mined, transported and erected such huge stones without our modern methods. There are usually three replies to our inquired: the people were giants or they had supernatural powers or they don’t have any idea.

The Saipan weekly street fair is just steps from the Hyatt. It was an opportunity to sample local food and to see traditional Chamorro dance performances.

Today Saipan is a wonderfully serene island surrounded by a tropical ocean. Airfare is expensive from Central New York but we used our frequent flyer miles to create an add-on trip from Tokyo.