Looking for a destination in the United Kingdom that is often overlooked? Check out Northern Wales. Northern Wales is truly enchanting from the rolling green hills dotted with sheep to romantic castles and from the seaside to the mountains. Driving is easy with little traffic and gorgeous scenery. Northern Wales is truly enchanting.
Beaumaris Castle, begun in 1295, was the last and largest of the castles built in Wales by King Edward I. King Edward is not the most popular person as his takeover of Wales was the end of their independence. Even though the castle was never finished it is considered to be one of the most technologically perfect castles with an inner ring of defenses surrounded by an outer ring making it nearly impregnable. The "murder holes" above the huge wooden gates could rain a heavy crossfire of arrows on the attackers followed dousing them with boiling oil. Today swans and ducks serenely glide along the waters of the moat.
Penrhyn Castle is a neo-Norman castle built in the early 1800s
covering earlier structures except for the spiral staircase. The owners made their money, in part, from mining slate from the nearby mountain. One of the interesting items is a one-ton slate bed made for Queen Victoria. The view and grounds are lovely.
Not too far away was the impressive walled city of Conwy also built by Edward I. He brought in English settlers and instituted English laws showing no respect for Welsh culture. In fact, the local Welsh people were forbidden to enter the castle walls except at the bidding of the English inhabitants to deliver goods or to work. Nearby Plas Mawr is an Elizabethan Town House built between 1576 and 1585. It is one of the best-preserved town houses of the era in Great Britain with bold red and white decor in the main rooms. The wealthy always live well regardless of the time period.
Not to miss is Portmeirion, a fantasy village that was designed and
built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis to resemble an Italian village. Today there are shops, a spa, a beach, a pool, excellent dining and delightful accommodations. Surrounding the village are 70 acres of exotic woodlands with easy to follow trails and coastal walks. During the day the village is bustling with activity but a special hush descends over the village when the day-trippers leave making the place seem magical.
Nearby are Bodnant Gardens, considered one of the most beautiful gardens in the UK, and Trefriw Woolen Mills that has been in operation since 1859 making traditional Welsh bedspreads, tweeds and tapestry. In Llanuwchllyn take a ride along the lake to the town and back on the narrow gauge steam train.
Ruthin Castle Hotel started out as a Welsh wooden fort in 1277 and over the years was altered to become the large red fort-like castle of today. According to legend, King Arthur disguised himself for a romantic liaison with his mistress at Ruthin. Unfortunately he was recognized and by an old adversary. Arthur had him executed on a stone block now displayed in the Town Square. Peacocks put on their proud display in the gardens.
In Llangollen take a two-hour motorized canal boat trip crosses the awe-inspiring Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 126 feet above the Dee River. Only one canal boat can cross the aqueduct at a time. It is an amazing 1007 feet long supported by 18 stone pillars. It was built between 1795 and 1805 and is a World Heritage site.
The Rhine River is one of Europe’s busiest rivers and for tourists one of the main Rhine attractions is the castles. There are over 40 castles on the Rhine many of which are now hotels, restaurants, and museums. There are lots of castles for sale some of which are around $300,000 USD. There are some that cost even less but most of the costs start after it is purchased. It's not cheap to maintain a castle. Consider additional expenses like gardening, personnel, structural maintenance and heating, and air-conditioning. As a ballpark estimate, assume these costs will run at least $5,000 to $10,000 a month. Consequently, most castle owners go to Plan B and offer tours, home stays, and a setting for events.
A Rhine cruise offer the opportunity to visit many castle and travelers can also relax and enjoy the view of the castles as they slowly cruise by. Many of the towns and cities grew around the castles. The peasants who worked at the castle were often given a strip of land on the manor to farm which led to small towns some of which grew into cities. The peasants were expected to do the farming, road building, clear the forests, and any other work determined by the lord of the land. They planted the many vineyards along the way.
Heidelberg Castle is a ruin in Germany and the icon of Heidelberg.
The castle ruins are among the most important Renaissance structures north of the Alps. The castle has only been partially rebuilt since its destruction in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was destroyed by lightning in 1764 leaving it permanently uninhabitable and the citizens of Heidelberg had used the castle stones to build their houses. The castle is a combination of several buildings surrounding an inner courtyard. Each building highlights a different period of German architecture.
Each castle has its own story. Katz (cats) Castle was built in the second half of the 14th century as bastion and military base to protect the Rheinfels Castle. Together they formed a fortified bulwark with a barrier for levying of the Rhine toll. Due to the location on the mountain ridge Katz Castle could not be conquered from the valley. But, like all castles it went through several seizes including one in 1806 when Napoleon blew up Katz Castle. Katz Castle is now the privately owned Hotel Katz Castle.
Schönburg Castle was first mentioned in history between the years
911 and 1166. It was one of the very few medieval castles in which, after a duke’s death, all of the sons became heirs to the castle and not just the eldest which was customary at that time. Schönburg Castle was destroyed and in ruins for two centuries until, in the late 19th century, an American of German ancestry, Mr. Rhinelander, bought the castle from the town of Oberwesel and invested two million Gold Marks into the restoration. The town council of Oberwesel acquired the castle back from Mr. Rhinelander’s son in 1950. Since 1957 the Hüttl family lives at the castle on a long-term lease and established a hotel and restaurant.
Stolzenfels Castle is another castle within the UNESCO World Heritage "Upper Middle Rhine Valley.” In contrast to many other castles it was not designed to collect tolls or as a fortress. It is an outstanding example of Rhine Romanticism and has been used as a summer residence. Each castle is different with its own unique back story.
The Lorelei (there are several variations of the spelling) is a famous German myth. It was popularized by Heinrich Heine in his poem, "Legend of the Loreley;" a story about a lovesick maiden who lured unwary sailors to dangerous currents and reefs with her bewitching song sung from high atop the cliff. The stretch spelled disaster for many a sailor
who piloted this treacherous stretch of the river only to have his ship fall prey to the jagged reefs below the surface. Captains and crews need no longer fear this stretch of the river because the reefs have been removed; however it is said that the siren's song can still be heard echoing in the valley below. Lorelei originates from the words "ley" or rock, and "Lore" from lure. There is a statue of Lorelei atop the 433-foot massive rock cliff at the bend of the river.
I did some research before I booked my Rhine River cruise. Tauck was a cruise company that had been recommended by some
English friends we met in Asia. I had never heard of them. Everyone I know who took similar cruises booked with Viking. I was surprised to find out Tauck was the first company in the United States to be granted a tour operators license. I picked Tauck mainly because they had single rooms with no supplement, and it was truly all inclusive: all tours, all
libations (which flowed freely) and included all gratuities. I was surprised that there was a lady who had been on 23 of their cruises! When we arrived in Basel I had booked my own hotel for three nights and Tauck arranged for Mercedes cab to transport to the hotel and to take me to the airport – gratis. The only bill I had when I disembarked was for a massage and for
the hairdresser. The meals were gourmet and so were the pre-dinner hors d'oeuvres. The cruise was truly luxurious. On one of the shore tours they actually gave everyone 20 euros spending money!!!
Tauck has its own buses and
tour guides. I love their narrations as we sailed the Rhine. Did you ever want to me mayor of a town? One of the smallest towns on the Rhine has a restaurant/bar attached to a church. In fact one has to have to enter the church through the bar. I understand it is for sale and when you buy it you become the town mayor, vicar of the church plus a restaurant/bar owner!
There are a lot of vineyards along the way and even though the
tours were free there were often choices one of which was to Alsatian Wine Route with a stop at Chateau Haut-Koenigsbourg built in the 1200s. Cycling and a visit to Caracalla Spa in Baden-Baden were also included options. I love going through locks. There are 14 of them on the Rhine trip. On the way to Utrecht we went through the first lock.
It was impressive. After our cruise ship pulled in so did another huge ship. There was less than a foot between us, then a smaller one pulled in behind us. Amazing. Utrecht has been awarded the title of most beautiful canal town in Europe multiple times. I loved
sitting in the Compass Lounge and watching the countryside dotted with numerous castles and picturesque towns slide by. The Rhine has been traversed by many groups for 1000s of years, all of whom left their mark.
The Catalonia region is known for the lively beach resorts of Costa Brava as well as the Pyrenees Mountains. Before my recent trip to Barcelona, the regional capital, people warned me about the protests. Catalonia would like independence, their language is slightly different, and
they feel Madrid, the capital of Spain, is spending too much of
Catalonia’s tax money on other parts of the country. Catalonia is quite well-off and has had some of its independence taken away recently. It’s another case of too much news. I was there five days and saw no demonstrations. I did go by a street near the university where a street was blocked off, tents were set up, but no one was around.
I have an IHG (think Holiday Inn family) credit card so I booked
their boutique hotel, The Indigo. The location was great. I have travel extensively but can always learn something. I should have checked the week before my arrival because the prices were lower. I should have cancelled and rebook. Will always check now.
The hotel was great as was their restaurant. It was only two blocks or so, along tree-lined streets with plenty of benches to the main plaza where all the tours buses start. There are three routes
and only one goes by the Basílica de la Sagrada Família. The church is ornate beyond belief and the inside with towering pillars has brilliant stained glass windows. It will be years before it is finished. When Gaudi was asked if he realized he would never see it finished he replied, “There is no hurry. My Master can wait.” The church is scheduled to be completed in 2026, the hundred year anniversary of Antoni Gauds’
death – 144 years after the first stone was laid. It is already a UNESCO World Heritage Sites and funds to complete it come from donations and entry fees. If you want to visit you should buy tickets on line that designate the entrance time. There was a long line when I was there. Gaudi’s work is so unique it got so I could recognize the other buildings he designed.
You can’t say you have been to Spain without going to a flamenco show.
There are several places to see flamenco. I picked the Palacio del Flamenco because it is a refurbished 1920s theater dedicated to the art of flamenco. The show was flashy and energetic. There are a choice of tickets: dinner and show (I never like to mix the two), show and tapas, and, my choice, show and a libation. I would have liked it better if there was a brochure that explained the individual dances and where they originated. The violin player was
incredible. Afterwards I couldn’t find a cab and people kept pointing to a place down the road where taxis stop. I walked back to the theater and the receptionist said just hail one with a green light New York style. Most cabs in Europe take credit cards; there is little need for local currency.
I spent one day at Poble Espanyol, a Spanish village where each geographic area of Spain is represented by architecture and culture. It was great but… it was the Day of the Dead. I thought the USA had high dibs on Halloween costumes. How ethnocentric of me. The place was packed,
glad I had a pass, with families all in costumes. It was fun but I wanted to see the crafts and, while they were there, it was not the focus of the day. There were too many family activities. There is also the Fran Daurel Art Museum which I really enjoyed because I didn’t have time to go to any other art museums.
Basel is a city on the Rhine River in northwest Switzerland, close to the country’s borders with France and Germany. The Dreiländereck is a monument in Basel, Switzerland that marks where the three countries meet. I loved Basel. It was so calm and quiet…no noisy motor bikes or other annoying vehicles. I also noticed in restaurants everyone talked softly except Americans. I didn’t realize how loud we talk.
I lucked out on my choice of hotel – the Der Teufelhof Basel. The hotel complex consists of a hotel, theatre, Atelier Restaurant, Bel Etage restaurant, brewery, bar and a coffee lounge as well as a wine cellar that is in the archaeological part where
parts of the old city wall can be seen. While the city wall is no more there are still a couple city gates standing. It lies in the heart of Basel's Old Town; in two knocked-together historical townhouses from the 18th century
Included in the price was Basel
Card which allowed me to ride free on public transit and discounts on other touristic things.. Using my Basel Card I took the tram which stopped in front of the hotel one stop to the city center where I went to the tourist office and book a bus tour at a reduced rate. Each seat had a table showing what the guide was talking about. From there I walked uphill for a short ways to the Tinguely Fountain installed by Jean Tinguely who is famous for his sculptural machines or kinetic art. There is also a museum in his name.
I didn’t know that Anne Frank’s father moved to Switzerland after
the war because he found it too painful to stay in Amsterdam. He had cousins there and it is where he read Anne’s diary and had it published. The city was also home to Erasmus, the 16th-century philosopher and Christian humanist who is widely considered to have been the greatest scholar of the northern Renaissance. The Renaissance influence is visible in many of the building. Its medieval old town centers around Marktplatz, dominated by the 16th-century, red-sandstone Town Hall. Its 12th-century Gothic cathedral has city views, and contains the tomb of Erasmus.
The city claims to be the home of a real Indiana Jones. Johann Burckhardt was a Swiss traveler, geographer and orientalist. He is best known for rediscovering the ruins of the ancient city of Petra in Jordan. Petra is an incredibly amazing place. From the top it is impossible to see the entrance to Petra. We walked through the narrow rocky passage with high walls called a Siq. Nothing compares to the first view of magnificent, 2,000-year-old Treasury building made familiar in the Indiana Jones movie. The whole area is incredible.
Today Basel in known for manufacturing chemical and
pharmaceuticals and, of course, watches. But that wasn’t always the case. Watchmaking only began in Switzerland after the Huguenot refugees brought the manufacture of portable timepieces to Switzerland in the second half of the 16th century. At that time, Calvinism was very popular. One of the main driving forces behind the country’s economic prosperity was the goldsmiths. Under the strict rule of Calvin, who rejected any display of wealth, the wearing of jewelry was banned thus forcing these craftsmen to find new outlets for their creative talents – and so they discovered watchmaking.
I love all the back stories I hear on bus tours. The bus stopped at the Rhine River and passengers could take a ferry across and be picked up on the other side. The ferries crosses without motorized assistance, using only the natural power of the river’s current. Cool!
Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is bisected by the River Danube. The views from the Danube are stunning, day and night. One of my credit cards is with the InterContinental group of hotels (think Holiday Inn) so I used some points to stay at the InterContinental where I had an incredible view of the Castle Hill and the Chain Bridge. One of the first things I did was to take a
hop-on bus tour. I had the Buda Card which allowed me to travel free on all public transportation and discounts for tours. One of the things I like about the tours is the back stories. Its 19th-century Chain Bridge connects the hilly Buda district with flat Pest area. It was the first bridge to connect the two side of the city. Before that they had to use ferries. It seems
that Count Istvan Szechenyi was on one side of the river when his father died, it was winter and the ferry could not make the crossing so he missed his father’s funeral. So he had the Chain Bridge constructed which was regarded as one the modern world’s engineering wonders.
The last time I was in Budapest was in the mid-80s when it was behind the “Iron Curtain.” Traveling at that time was very safe as long as one didn’t protest: it was inexpensive, and very interesting. Today the city is bustling with tourists.
One of the things I recall from my first visit was the story of the Holy Crown of Hungary, aka the
Crown of St. Stephen, circa 1526. The crown had a varied history; it had been stolen, hidden, lost, recovered and travel abroad. In 1848 the crown was buried in a wooden box in the forest in Transylvania, now Romania. When I was there what I saw was a replica because it was, at that time, in Fort Knox, which I found a bit strange. At the end of the Second World War the crown made its way to the United States for safe keeping from the Russians. It was kept in Fort Knox until1978 when by order of President Carter it was returned to Budapest. Today the crown is on display in the Parliament building.
The best way to see the Parliament is from a river cruise. Again the Buda Pass came in handy. When I bought the discounted hop-on bus tour I bought the package that included the river cruise. Not to miss in front of the Parliament are the shoes on the bank of Danube to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist militiamen in Budapest during World War II.
There is a lot to see, do, and learn. A funicular runs up Castle Hill to Buda’s Old Town, where the Budapest History Museum traces city life from Roman times onward. Trinity Square is home to 13th-century Matthias Church and the turrets of the Fishermen’s Bastion, which offer sweeping views of the area.
Hero’s Square is one of the major squares in Budapest, Hungary, noted for its iconic statue complex featuring the seven chieftains of the Magyars and other important Hungarian national leaders, as well as the Memorial Stone of Heroes, often erroneously referred as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The Seven chieftains of the Magyars were the leaders of the seven tribes of the Hungarians at the time of their arrival and settlement in the area in AD 895. The country has a fascinating history that includes being part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. At one time both Budapest and Vienna served capitals.
Thinking of visiting Europe? Consider Bruges (Brugge in Dutch) this spring; it is a fairy-tale medieval town in the northwest of Belgium often referred to as “The Venice of the North.” Wandering the cobbled streets past medieval buildings and canals is a step into the past. It is one of Europe’s best preserved cities.
1. Getting acquainted: The best way to soak in the ambiance of the city is by walking around. The streets and laneways are well marked and there are plenty of walking maps in hotel lobbies, cafes and also from one of the three tourist offices.
2. Canal Boat Tour: One of the easiest ways to see the city is from the water. It is designed for picture-taking with overhanging willow trees, bridges, historic homes, and swans. The canals pass through the historic area and the ride is very romantic.
3. The Belfry: It is “only” 366 steps to the top of the 272-foot Belfry but the dazzling view of the city is worth it. The building dates back to the 13th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Originally it was built as part of the medieval town hall with a carillon with its 47 impressive bells.
4. Basilica of the Holy Blood: Joseph of Armiathea brought the blood of Christ to Belgium from the Holy Land. At certain hours every day visitors can get in line to touch or kiss the cloth with the holy blood. Architecturally the basilica is interesting. The treasury room has the jewel-studded reliquary which is part of Bruges’ large annual parade on Ascension Day.
5. Church of Our Lady: Only one of Michelangelo’s sculptures left Italy during his lifetime and it is in Bruges.
The sculpture is of Mary holding the infant Jesus and is different from some of his others in that it shows Mary looking lovingly at Jesus. Appropriately, it is located in the Church of Our Lady.
6. Salvador Dali: The Museum-Gallery Xpo: Salvador Dali, located in the Cloth Halls, is home to an amazing collection of works by Dali. It is an audiovisual spectacle that highlights not only Dali’s work but his character and vision of life. It is an unforgettable as his works.
7. Lace Center: Bruges is world renowned for its lace. The Lace Center is located in an old lace school run by the Sisters of the Immaculate Conception. The multimedia displays explain the types of lace, the industry, along with demonstrations and various courses. There are plenty of lace stores displaying all types and sizes of lace for sale.
8. Chocolate: Lace isn’t the only thing the city is noted for. The
Chocolate Museum has everything you wanted to know about chocolate from its beginnings in the Americas to today. Learn why Belgian chocolate is considered to be healthy and of high quality. The tour ends with a demonstration and tasting. There are plenty of places to buy chocolate.
9. Beer: There is only one brewery in the center of the city – Halve Maan Brewery. The family business stretches back six generations to 1856.Try their famous Bruges Zot (Brugge Fool) named after a visit by Maximilian of Austria who declared Bruges to be “one large madhouse.”
10. And: Don’t miss the Groeninge Museum, strolling through the market, and the small commune of Beguinage. For many the secret is already out; during the busy summer months, you'll be sharing Bruges' magic with a constant stream of tourists in the medieval core. The best time to visit is in spring.
Ruthin Castle Hotel started out as a Welsh wooden fort in 1277 and over the years was altered to become the large red fort-like castle of today. According to legend, King Arthur disguised himself for a romantic liaison with his mistress at Ruthin. Unfortunately he was recognized and by an old adversary. Arthur had him executed on a stone block now displayed in the Town Square. Peacocks put on their proud display in the gardens.
