John and I often spend the last couple days of a trip treating ourselves by staying at someplace special. We decided to stay at a pousada. The pousadas of Portugal are a group of unique places to stay. On our last trip we stayed at several and I will never forget looking out the window of my room in Pouasda of Palmela, a medieval castle. I know how Repunzel must have felt. Our room was in the old, high, sheer walls of the castle with a panoramic view of the countryside.
This time we chose to stay at Pousada of Queluz Dona Maria located on the main square opposite the Queluz Palace. The building formerly housed the Royal Guards. It is on the edge of Lisbon and about the same distance from the airport from the city center. The hotel was wonderful with white tablecloth dining for breakfast. When we booked a tour outside of Lisbon we chose the half day tour that did not include Queluz Palace because we knew the palace would be just steps away from the last place we planned to stay.
John and I walked across the street to visit the palace and gardens. Queluz Palace was the official residence of the Portuguese Royal Family from 1794 until it became the property of the state in 1908. It has been beautifully renovated maintaining much of the building’s 18th century elegance. I recalled the palace and the pousada as being mauve-colored. The pousada still is but the palace is being repainted with touches of yellow, blue, and green on the gray stone. It seems research shows that it was the color originally. The Queluz Palace is one of great European Rococo buildings.
One of the benefits of touring the palace on our own is that we can take our time and ask questions – and learn the stories. Needless to say the rooms were elegant with Murano chandeliers, Portuguese Azulejos tiles, paintings, gold-leaf trim, and other features. The royals had their own private enclosed area in the chapel. There were music rooms, an Ambassador room, dressing rooms, and more. Life of the royals was not always wonderful as one might think. Maria I was considered a good ruler until her mental state deteriorated and after the death of her husband and then her eldest son, the heir-apparent at 27 from small pox, followed by the death of her confessor she was declared insane.
It all seemed so wonderful and peaceful, especially the gardens. There were fountains, statues, private areas, a variety of gardens but the pièce de résistance was the canal lined with blue Azulejos tiles. There was a place for the court musicians to play while the royals spent leisure time on water.
I should have planned better because I wanted to attend a concert in
the palace ballroom but it was sold out. And, we wanted to see a presentation by the famed Portuguese School of Equestrian Art which was at one time on the palace grounds but now has moved to another location.
The kitchen of Queluz Palace is now the Cosinha Velha a fine-dining restaurant. John and I enjoyed our delectable meals there. On display there are some of the original utensils and the fireplace big enough to roast an entire animal. The massive 17-ton stone prep table is now the dessert table laden with an array of delectable yummies.
John and I were in Portugal in 1997 but we didn’t visit Lisbon. At that time we rented a car and drove up the coast to Fatima and didn’t want the hassle of driving in the city. This time we stayed in Lisbon for a week – no rental car. We used our frequent flyer miles for our air tickets and our IHG points to stay at the Holiday Inn Lisbon Continental. It was centrally located across from the large Parque Eduardo VII. The breakfast was extensive and well worth it.
The must-do first stop is “Lisboa Story Centre,” a wonderful interactive presentation detailing the history of the city. It is a self-guided tour through the various periods in the city’s history. The climax is the film that brings reality to the catastrophic 1755 earthquake. Next we took the city tour and got off in Belem. I love the Tower of Belem with its wedding cake look. It is where Vasco da Gama set sail on his historic voyage to
India. The iconic white, heavily ornamented Tower of Belem is a prime example of Maueline Architecture. Nearby are the historic Jeronimos Monastery, one of the most ornate churches in Portugal; the National Coach Museum with fairytale royal coaches; and the Monument to Discoveries celebrating Portugal’s leadership during the European Age of Discovery.
Of special interest was the airplane statue near the Tower of Belem. The statue commemorates the first transatlantic flight by Sacadura Cabral from Portugal to Brazil – 5,209 miles - which inspired Charles Lindbergh five years later. Lindburgh’s 3,500-mile flight was non-stop from NY to Paris Near the marina there was an unimposing kiosk where we
booked a one-hour sail on the Tagus River in a traditionally made wooden sailboat for $10 pp. There was one other couple and John got to sail. We spent so much time in the Belem area that we missed the last tour bus ride to the center of town so took a taxi. There are several museums in the area including a Museum of Electricity and the Coach Museum with fairytale-like carriages.
To get a feel for the “old’ Lisbon we went to the Alfama and toured the Lisbon Castle. The castle/fort dates from the 11th century at the time Christianity was brought to Portugal. Before 1147 Lisbon was an important Moorish trading post with stronger ties to Africa then
Europe. I was glad we took a cab because otherwise it would have been a long walk up the hill to the castle. The views of the city were great. Portugal is justly proud of its wine and there are wine-vending carts at the major tourist sites. There were seats in the embattlements so we could enjoy the view with a glass of wine. How civilized.
First-time visitors should to go a Fado Restaurant. Fado is uniquely Portuguese. Typically it is a sad song with accompaniment and a dance that is performed at restaurants that serve Portuguese food. The food is wonderful and it seems Olive Oil is on everything . It is even on the breakfast table. They use it like butter and I have to admit it was very tasty.
For those who want to travel to Europe and are hesitant because they fear terrorism Portugal is a good option as it has escaped terroristic attacks. The country was neutral in WW II so it was not bombed. Neutrality can be a good thing.
This time we chose to stay at Pousada of Queluz Dona Maria located on the main square opposite the Queluz Palace. The building formerly housed the Royal Guards. It is on the edge of Lisbon and about the same distance from the airport from the city center. The hotel was wonderful with white tablecloth dining for breakfast. When we booked a tour outside of Lisbon we chose the half day tour that did not include Queluz Palace because we knew the palace would be just steps away from the last place we planned to stay.
John and I walked across the street to visit the palace and gardens. Queluz Palace was the official residence of the Portuguese Royal Family from 1794 until it became the property of the state in 1908. It has been beautifully renovated maintaining much of the building’s 18th century elegance. I recalled the palace and the pousada as being mauve-colored. The pousada still is but the palace is being repainted with touches of yellow, blue, and green on the gray stone. It seems research shows that it was the color originally. The Queluz Palace is one of great European Rococo buildings.
One of the benefits of touring the palace on our own is that we can take our time and ask questions – and learn the stories. Needless to say the rooms were elegant with Murano chandeliers, Portuguese Azulejos tiles, paintings, gold-leaf trim, and other features. The royals had their own private enclosed area in the chapel. There were music rooms, an Ambassador room, dressing rooms, and more. Life of the royals was not always wonderful as one might think. Maria I was considered a good ruler until her mental state deteriorated and after the death of her husband and then her eldest son, the heir-apparent at 27 from small pox, followed by the death of her confessor she was declared insane. 
It all seemed so wonderful and peaceful, especially the gardens. There were fountains, statues, private areas, a variety of gardens but the pièce de résistance was the canal lined with blue Azulejos tiles. There was a place for the court musicians to play while the royals spent leisure time on water.
