Caribbean Getaways

The recent hurricane season has been extremely disastrous on the islands of the Caribbean but there were some that did not suffer any damage. Undamaged Islands still suffer from association with potential travelers thinking the entire Caribbean was destroyed. Keep in mind that the best deals are in the off season or at the beginning and end of high season.  Often the best deal is a package that includes airfare. 

1. Roatan: The largest and most popular of the Honduran Bay Islands has long been popular with divers but there are a variety of accommodations from live-aboard dive boats to all-inclusive resorts.  Roatan along with its two sister island – Utila and Guanaja – are located on the second largest barrier reef.   
2. Caymans:  The Caymans are a British Overseas Territory made up of three islands in the western Caribbean Sea. Grand Cayman, the largest island, is known for its beach resorts and varied scuba diving and snorkeling sites.  A great place to pet a ray.

3. Bonaire: The Island is part of the Netherlands and out of the hurricane zone so any time of year to visit is great. It is known for great diving with some sites that can be accessed by just walking into the water. The pink salt flats are unique as is the donkey rescue center.
4. Haiti: Haiti could benefit

from tourism money at it is still trying to recover from the 2010 earthquake but most of Haiti’s resorts and landmarks such as the Citadel and ruins of Sans-Souci, once the royal  palace of Haiti’s 19th century King Henry I. There are great beaches. 
5. St. Lucia: The name may conjure up romance but there is also adventure. Not to miss is the Diamond Botanical Gardens to learn about how cocoa is grown and processed into chocolate. Plan to visit the waterfalls that has been featured in several movies. The island is a favorite stop for yacht owners.
6. Jamaica:  The Island is a favorite destination for those

looking for reasonable places to stay especially at one of the many all-inclusive resorts. Montego Bay has British-colonial architecture and the capital of Kingston is home to the Bob Marley Museum.  Dunn’s River Falls is a must-do.
7. Curacao: The Dutch island is out of the hurricane belt and known for its beaches tucked into coves and is large coral reefs. The capital, Willemstad is picture perfect with pastel-colored colonial architecture. Onshore access to the reefs makes it popular with snorkelers and divers. 
8.

Barbados: The eastern Caribbean island is part of the British Commonwealth where afternoon tea and cricket are still local traditions. Don’t miss the Jacobean-style St. Nicholas Abbey.  The mansion is one of the oldest plantation houses in the Caribbean. A do-not miss is Animal Flower Cave with pools deep enough to swim in. 
9. Grenada: The smell will tell you why Grenada is called the “Spice Isle.” There are several nutmeg plantations to visit. The capital of St. George has Georgian buildings and an 18th century fort, and, of course, resorts and beaches.  Check out the world’s first underwater sculpture park. 

10. Trinidad & Tobago: The two-island nation is off the coast of Venezuela and is known for its distinctive Creole traditions and cuisines. The smaller island of Tobago is known for its beaches and the Tobago Main Ridge Forest Reserve which shelters hummingbirds. There are daily flights and ferries connection the two islands.

Making Plantain Fritas

I am always impressed with how hospitable people are –worldwide.  This was the case when we were in Haiti. Haiti is an interesting destination but it is not on many travelers’ radar. There is always so much to learn and experience everywhere we go. 

In the 1700s Haiti was the glory of the French colonies and one of

the richest colonies in the world.  In 1804 Haiti became the first black independent nation. Over the years, poor leadership and other issues caused economic troubles from which Haiti has never fully recovered and the earthquake in 2010. 

I had expected beaches and I was not disappointed. One of my favorite places was Jacmel where there are not only great beaches but shops with great local artwork created out of whatever was handy. We visited a place where artists made artworks out of discarded oil drums.  In Jacmel I was especially impressed with Charlotte, a shop that displayed colorful works of art made of gourds and reeds.   

In Jacmel we stayed at La Colline Enchantee.  The lovely eco-resort is high on a hill just outside of the Jacmel.  The owner Michele Gehy was very friendly and, like all the Haitians we met, proud of their country. While we were talking about Haitian food she mentioned that

plantains are the “Haitian potato.” I told her I had tried the Plantain Fritas and would love to know how to make them because they are not only delicious but would make great hors d'oeuvres.  She said, “Do you want to know how to make them? Come with me and I will show you.”  We went into the kitchen where she proceeded to show us how to make Plantain Fritas– gratis. The Griot de Porc can be made ahead of time, refrigerated and reheated when ready to put in plantain cups and serve.

Plantain Fritas

Griot de Porc 

1 lb of pork 

Juice of 2 limes 

1 cup orange juice

2 onions thinly sliced

1 green pepper thinly sliced

4 to 6 cloves

5 cloves of garlic

1/4 tsp thyme 

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp black pepper

Water as needed

This can be made ahead of time. Cut the pork into small cubes (keep the fat). Make a marinade of the lime juice, orange juice, half of the onions, green pepper, cloves, garlic, thyme, salt and black pepper. Marinate pork in marinade overnight in refrigerator (or at least four hours). Put it all in a sauce pan. Boil on low heat for about 20 minutes. Add water if necessary. Drain. Add rest of onions. Saute over medium heat until brown. Put in the plantain baskets and serve. It can be spiced up according to personal taste.   

Fried  Plantain  Baskets

4 green plantains

2 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

2 lemons

2 tbs vegetable oil for frying – or as needed

Peel the plantains. Cut into pieces two inches long. Place in water with salt and juice of lemon for two hours. Remove and drain on paper towels. Heat the oil in a frying pan. Cook plantains for two to three minutes. Remove plantains. Drain on a paper towel. Press the fried plantain pieces in a lemon press of similar device to make the small cup-like baskets. Put them back in the salt and lemon water for a couple minutes. Remove and drain on a paper towel.  Fry in oil until crispy. Fill with Griot de Porc and serve.

Visit Cap-Haitien when in Haiti

When Europeans arrived on the island of Hispaniola, now home to

Haiti and the Dominican Republic, they were met by the Taino people, a seafaring group found in the Caribbean islands. Contact with the Europeans spelled the beginning of the end for the native people as smallpox epidemics in the early 1500s killed 90% of the Taino who had no Cap-Haitien is in the northern part of Haiti near Labadee where the Royal Caribbean makes a port call. Sadly, the cruise passengers do not get to see one of the world’s most incredible forts and other interesting places nearby.  They are not allowed to leave the site leased by the Royal Caribbean.  

About 17 miles from Cap-Haitien and five miles uphill – really uphill on a twisty-turny road – is the largest fortress in the Americas. The Citadel is located on a high mountain and intentionally extremely difficult to get to because it was to serve as a place of last resort should they be attacked. Some hike to the top but we went by car and then the last part in a four-wheeler. The Citadel was built at the behest of Henri Christophe who was a key leader of the slave rebellion that led to the world’s first independent black-led republic in the world having successfully ousted the French. Fearful that the French would try to recapture the island the massive fort was constructed by 20,000 workers between 1805 and 1820. After our visit our guide, Maurice, took us to his place that is a cultural center in the making. His wife had prepared an incredible lunch from ingredients made from ingredients grown on his property.

On the way to the Citadel was one of the most unexpected sites in

Haiti – the ruins of Sans Souci Palace that brings to mind the palaces of France.  Sans Souci was the royal residence of King Henry I. Yes, there was once a king of Haiti but he is better known as Henri Christophe. Construction began in 1810 and it only took two years to build the massive complex complete with gardens, fountains and pools. It was Christophe's plan to show foreigners, particularly Europeans and Americans, the power and capability of the black race. A major earthquake in 1842 destroyed a major part of the Versailles-like palace and it was never rebuilt.  

When Europeans arrived on the island of Hispaniola, now home to

Haiti and the Dominican Republic, they were met by the Taino people, a seafaring group found in the Caribbean islands. Contact with the Europeans spelled the beginning of the end for the native people as smallpox epidemics in the early 1500s killed 90% of the Taino who had no natural immunity. Diseases and other causes led to their virtual extinction by the beginning of the 1600s. Near Ste. Suzanne there are petroglyphs accredited to the Taino people. On the way we stopped at a house to see some Taino artifacts a man has collected. We continue on to where a moderately-difficult path led to a stream where the petroglyphs were carved on the rocks many a long year ago. Amazingly hundreds and hundreds of years of water washing over the have not completely eroded them.  

One night we stayed at Habitation Jouissant, a luxury boutique hotel on the hillside with panoramic views of the sea and the city that once was a private residence. The window in our room had a perfect view of the full moon and then the sun rising in the morning.  We spent a couple nights at Cormier Beach Resort, a long-established, family-owned resort situated on a sandy beach with five-acres of beautiful flowers and trees. All of our accommodations in Haiti had free internet and included breakfast which we really appreciated.

Haiti's Arcadin Coast is for beach lovers

Did you know the Clinton’s honeymooned in Haiti? Actually a lot of people have. The Arcadin Coast north of the capital of Port-au-Prince is the most popular beach destination in Haiti.   The beaches are lovely with all the fun-in-the sun activities readily available – snorkeling, fishing, jet skiing, sailing, diving, and so on.  Most of the people we met at the beach resorts had come with Transat Holiday, a Canadian company. According to an Arizona couple traveling with the group the company also books from US locations. 

We stayed at several resorts and it was hard to say which one was the best because they were all a bit different and looked like they had recently been freshened up with new paint and other upgrades.  Wahoo Bay Beach is a wonderful, boutique-like, family-owned resort.  We opted for a quiet room away from the pool with an incredible view of the sea.  And, as a special treat we had a wonderful breakfast on our porch outside our room.  At Kaliko, a midsize resort, the staff was very well-trained and our room was a large round colorful bungalow that would have been perfect for a family with young children.  The colorful resort reflects the Gingerbread architecture usually identified as typically

Haitian Creole. One of the things I thought spoke volumes about Haitian hospitality was the musical group that entertained at dinner. They were Kaliko employees who volunteered without pay.  Another hotel was a former Club Med that is now Club Indigo with rooms located in colorful buildings on a long sandy beach. They boast the largest pool in Haiti. Typical of Club Med the rooms are small but in keeping with the Club Med philosophy they feel the small rooms encourages people to get out and enjoy the beach and beautiful surroundings. 

One day we went on a walking tour through a nearby village that

ended in a market.  Our guided tour offered by Touris Lakay started at the Ogier Fombrun Museum, a place to learn about the area’s history from pre-Colombian times to Haiti’s colonial era. It the 1700s Haiti was the largest producer of sugar in the Caribbean and the richest country in the Americas. There is an authentic stone aqueduct and the 20-foot wooden wheel used to extract juice from the sugar cane. Our guide, Sala, led us at a slow pace identifying plants and trees along the way, past the cane fields where cows graze with the mountains as a backdrop, and continued to a spring where the community gathers to wash clothes, bath and where sacred, secret voodoo ceremonies are

purported to take place. However, authentic voodoo practices are not usually open to casual tourists. Darn! Voodoo is a serious African-based religion not to be confused the popular concept of voodoo in the United States. The walk along quiet, serene paths continued to a port and to the village of Montrouis where there is a lively market.  While most of the vendors were selling fruits and vegetables there were many other things for sale, bargaining is the usual practice. I wish I had known a little French or Creole so I could have chatted with the friendly people. It was a great way to get the feel of the “real” Haiti. At the end of the walking tour we returned to the historic mill in the back of a Tap-Tap. A Tap-Tap is a brightly painted truck that serves as taxis in Haiti. 

Jacmel, Haiti's Handicraft Capital

The three-hour ride from Port-au-Prince to the southern coastal

town of Jacmel was exciting as we traveled over the mountains. We stayed on the edge of Jacmel at the hillside Le Colline Enchantee hotel where we had a great cabana with an alfresco shower and our favorite amenities – air conditioning and internet access. The owners, Michele and Michel Gehy were so welcoming and helpful. When I mentioned to Michele that I thought Haitian Banana Fritas were tasty she said, “Let’s go into the kitchen and I will show you how to make them!” Typical Haitian hospitality.

Jacmel is a great beach location but it also supports all the arts. We visited the Cine Institute that is training film makers. We walked in on a class teaching English to the students and chatted a bit.  We also stopped at a music school where some of the students had played at the White House.  In fact our guide, Michaele, had been invited to the White House twice!

We were fortunate to see a show highlighting their traditional

dances.  It was a riot of color and movement.  One of the dances had the handsome gentleman dancer pantomiming asking the pretty young ladies to dance.  They all refused!  There must have been more to that traditional story and dance.  We also saw some of the animal costumes that are popular during Carnival.  Their carnival is very family-friendly. 

Jacmel was hit hard in the 2010 earthquake but the outlook is “Let’s move forward.”  A program to encourage art with youngsters has led to beautiful mosaics though out the city. They not only add color but also celebrate Haitian culture. Haiti is a poor country by most standards but the artwork they have created from basically nothing is absolutely incredible.  There are many handicraft shops in the area. We visited Les Creations Moro, where Moro is as

colorful as his creations. Moro explained that many of his unique artworks are made from discarded cardboard.  He makes a variety of masks that are popular during Jacmel’s carnival in February and donned one of his zebra masks. His works are in so much demand that he has workers who help him but he creates everything personally. Nearby was Charlotte’s Handicraft Shop where the unique creations are made from calabash and palm fronds. 

I would love to return to Jacmel in a couple years because Moro told us that the some of the city streets are scheduled to be closed off and completely restored to their colonial grandeur. Jacmel played a part in the South American independence movement. Simon Bolivar, the South American “George Washington” was hosted by the people of Jacmel. It is where he organized his army and the people of Jacmel like to say, “Jacmel is where the Columbian and Venezuelan flag was designed.”  Colombia and Venezuela are investing millions in the restoration of the historic center of the city.  Even now many of the

buildings have been beautifully restored. Many of the buildings are brightly painted with wide balconies with filigree railings. They people of Jacmel are quick to point out that the area was the first town in the Caribbean to have telephones, electric lights and potable water.  At one time it was a bustling port.  One of the things I didn’t get to see – another reason to return – was the Bassins Bleu, three bright blue pools connected by waterfalls.  The pictures I saw were spectacular.

Visiting Port-au-Prince, Haiti

We totally loved our visit to Haiti.  We found it was less expensive to fly into Santo Domingo then fly to Port-au-Prince from there. The biggest problem was connecting between the two Santo Domingo airports so hired a nice young man to drive us thus avoiding the taxis.  It was expensive but smooth and easy, which we appreciated. Port-au-Prince suffered from the 2010 earthquake but we were impressed because everyone seemed busy and things were improving. We were in Managua twenty years after they suffered a similar earthquake and, except for clearing the ruble away, nothing had been rebuilt. 

In Port-au-Prince we stayed at the new Best Western Premier which was lovely and had a lot of Haitian artwork on display and even had a book that described the artwork.  Many of the governmental buildings including the Presidential Palace were destroyed but are in the process of being rebuilt.  The restored Iron Market is the bright sign of hope for the future of Port-au-Prince. Like a vision from the Arabian Nights the beautiful red Iron Market complete with minarets, was restored by John McAslan who has a variety of interests in the area, namely the major internet company. On Tuesday, January 11, 2011 he joined Bill Clinton for the grand reopening of the market.  The Clinton foundation, which has many programs in support of Haiti, commented that the

completed market was a “bright beacon” of hope for the future of Haiti. Without a doubt it provides employment for many people. The market is jam packed with everything from handicrafts to pigeons. The building has an interesting history. It was prefabricated in France and was intended to be the train station in Cairo. But the plan didn’t work and, as the story goes, Florvil Hyppolite, President of Haiti from 1828 to 1896, was visiting France and decided it was just what Port-au-Prince needed so he bought it and had it shipped to Haiti to serve as the central market. 

Every visit to Port-au-Prince should include a visit to The Observatory.  It offers an expansive view of the mountain, sea, and the city.  We visited twice.  Once during the day and then returned in the evening where there is a new restaurant, The Observatory has great food with a magical view of the city lights far below. 

One day we ate at Le Chateaublond, located just a short distance

from Port-au-Prince. It is a sugar cane museum with artifacts and structures that recall the days of sugar cane production a key component in Haiti’s history. On display are a train, the chimney, vats and other artifacts.  Our meal was hosted by Pierre Richard Moiso who explained typical Haitian food and beverages while sharing his love of Haiti.  I learned about acra, a favorite appetizer made from a Haitian ground root; Chiquetaille de Lambi, a conch recipe that is a must-have at a Haitian’s first communion celebration; and Clairin, a popular drink similar to moonshine that comes in a variety of flavors.  

Dining at Chateublond was a total experience with Pierre Richard Moiso in charge. We learned about Haitian food and the sugar cane industry. Moiso said when he looks at the tall brick chimney he thinks of his ancestors who toiled in the cane fields. He explained, “Haiti has something special. It is not like everywhere else. Yes, there are things I’d like to see changed but I don’t want us to lose our identity.”