Family Beach Vacation in Nicaragua

Hotels are too expensive, to my way of thinking, if a family of more than four wants to get away together.  My sons and their families, eight of us, rented an entire house with a pool on the beach on Nicaragua’s Pacific Coast.  Granted the airfare can be expensive but once in Nicaragua things are less expensive.  At first glance the house rental for two weeks may seem expensive but not when divided by eight. 

I have been to Nicaragua several times in the last 25 years.  Interestingly, the first time I was there the Sandinistas, headed by Daniel Ortega, were being ousted and they destroyed many places in the process.  Guess who is back in power – Daniel Ortega and the Sandinistas.  The roads are the best one will find in Central America and the traffic rules are religiously obeyed. Incredible.  The airport is new and efficient.  I arrived a day early and stayed at the Best Western Las Mercedes across the street from the airport… it is walkable.

The owner of the house where we stayed suggested a van and

driver so for $100 he picked up all of us and drove us from the airport to the house in Pochomil, a 90-minute drive.  We also used him for our day trip to Granada and to return to the airport.  Not a bad deal. 

The house was beautiful and roomy with three bedrooms with a/c and full baths, one also had an outdoor shower. The pool

was my favorite.  It had an awesome view of the Pacific. It was a few steps down to the beach level where there was a large gazebo with hammocks, couches, and a wet bar.  While I liked wallowing in a shady part of the pool with a book, my daughter-in-law preferred the hammock in the gazebo.  My sons went boogie boarding several times.  They went out fishing and my grandson caught the first fish – a tuna.  Instead of a pole they had a board with the fishing line wrapped around it.  For me it was a flashback to my days on Raquette Lake, for them it was a new experience. 

It was New Year’s so they were able to watch all the bowl games

– sometimes in Spanish. Roger, the caretaker’s son spoke excellent English but he worked in Managua so he wasn’t always there but thanks to Google Translate communicating was not an issue when our limited Spanish failed us. 

What really made it a relaxing vacation was the caretaker’s wife.  For $400 she cooked, cleaned, and did our laundry for two weeks. We asked her to make Nicaraguan food not American.  We had some incredible meals and she created some delicious sauces.  I am not a fish lover but her ceviche was awesome. 

Every day was filled with sunshine and every evening we gathered

to watch the sunset together.  We looked for the green flash (which some thought was a figment of my imagination) but never saw it.  The green flash is a meteorological optical phenomenon that sometimes occurs around the moment of sunset or sunrise. When the conditions are right, a distinct green spot is briefly visible above the upper rim of the Sun's disk; the green appearance usually lasts for no more than two seconds. I have only seen it once when I was in Palau but I keep looking. 

John and I have been to Nicaragua several times since our first visit in the 90s. At that time the country was trying to recover from the devastation caused by the conflicts between the socialistic Sandinista junta and the opposition, the U.S.-backed contras.  It wasn’t the first involvement by a group from the United States.  Every school child in

Central America learns about William Walker, an American who invaded Nicaragua with his private army. Walker became president of Nicaragua from 1856 to 1857.  We visited the local museum where money issued by Walker during his administration is on display. Around the same time Cornelius Vanderbilt considered building a canal connecting the natural waterways between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  Instead the Panama Canal was built. In 2016 a Chinese tycoon started to build a canal across Nicaragua; but work is at a standstill.  The Rio San Juan connects the Atlantic Ocean with Lake Nicaragua and from there it is only a short distance to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific.  Hopes for a new Nicaraguan canal spurred hopes for increased tourism on the projected route including Ometepe Island. 

Ometepe is home to twin volcanoes connected by a narrow

isthmus. In December  John and I visited the island which is accessed by ferry from Rivas.  The island is popular with nature-lovers.  We stayed at Xalli Beach Hotel located on the isthmus with views of both volcanoes. It was just a few steps down to the long beach on the Lake Nicaragua, the largest lake in Central America. 

Xalli, whenever possible, buys organic and locally-grown produce.  It insures freshness and helps the local farming community. I loved the chicken burritos and asked the cook, Lorena Alvarez, to share the recipe with me.  She showed me how to make burritos and gallo pinto Nicaraguense with Pedro Centeno, the manager, translating.

Most likely the burrito originated in Mexico and spread throughout the Americas with each area making their own adaption.  The word “burrito” means “little donkey” and possibly referred to the bedrolls carried by the donkeys. 

Chicken Burroitos

1 large tomato – diced
1 small green pepper – diced
1 small onion – diced
1 tsp cilantro - diced
2 tsp olive oil 
1 tsp lemon juice
12 ounces cooked chicken, shredded or diced
¾ (three-fourths) cup cheese – shredded (cheddar or white Nicaragua cheese)
Salt and pepper
Small 2. burrito ingredients
Mix tomatoes, green peppers, onions, cilantro, oil, and lemon juice in a bowl add salt and pepper to taste. 

On each tortilla add place two tablespoons of chicken, two tablespoons of veggie mix, top with cheese. Fold. Lightly oil a pan. Grill burritos about one minute each side. Ingredients can be prepared ahead of time and assembled when ready to eat. Assembled burritos can be made ahead of time and refrigerated for several hours.  Serve with gallo pinto and /or sour cream. 

Gallo Pinto Nicaraguense

1 lb rice
1 tbsp olive oil
1 cup onions, finely diced
1 can small red kidney beans (Goya sells Central America Beans)
1 green pepper, finely diced
Salt and pepper to taste

Cook rice, set aside. In frying pan, add oil, sauté onions over medium heat until onions are translucent. Add beans with liquid.  Mash beans a little to add aroma and color. Add green pepper. Sauté about two minutes. Add rice, sauté about two to three minutes.  Can be refrigerated for later use. 

Things to do in Nicaragua

Nicaragua is the new Central American hot-spot.  Costa Rica has been done, so now people are looking for a new tropical adventure that is unspoiled. Nicaragua has a coast on the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans offering visitors beaches, rainforest, history, colorful culture, and adventure. There are a variety of places to stay from homestays to luxurious resorts and everything in between.  

1. Managua: The capital of Nicaragua suffered a devastating earthquake in 1972 and it took decades for the city to revitalize the center. The old cathedral still stands in ruins. Towering over the city is a large cutout of Sandino, the leader of the rebellion to oust American military in the 1920s and 1930s. The Ancient Footprints of Acahualinca Museum shows 2,100-year-old fossil footprints of people and animals trying to escape from the volcano. 

2. Leon: Leon is in the land of volcanoes. For an overview of the city walk on the roof of the Leon Cathedral, one of the largest in Central America. The Museo de Arte is worth a visit where the guides are very informative. Not far from Leon is the Leon Veijo, a World Heritage Site that was destroyed by a volcano and is the only 16th-century colonial city in its original format.

3. Granada: Located on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, the city is the quintessential Central American colonial-style city. The colorful main square is dominated by the neoclassic cathedral. The original part dates back to 1583. Another do-not-miss is the Convento San Francisco. Nearby is Masaya National Park, the largest national park in Nicaragua.

4. San Juan del Sur: The sweeping crescent-shaped beach of San Jan has become the place for sun worshippers, party animals, and adventurers. Some of the best high-end accommodations are located in the area. From surfing to catamaran tours to horseback riding through the hills, San Juan is the new hotspot for tourists.
5. Ometepe: The twin-peaked island, one of the largest fresh

water islands, is located in Lake Nicaragua.  The two peaks are volcanoes, only one is active. The area is popular with hikers and people seeking a place that hasn’t been commercialized. 
6. Solentiname Islands: The archipelago is located in Lake Nicaragua, the 19th largest lake in the world. It has been a sanctuary for artists who use the lush flora, colorful birds, and serene lifestyle for their subject. In the mid-1960s a priest came to the island and began what has become a thriving artist colony. 
7. Rio San Juan: Nature lovers and adventurers will want to explore the river and follow the path of Mark Twain, Cornelius Vanderbilt, and the 49ers.  The river forms part of the border between Nicaragua and Costa River. Not to miss is the Indio-Maiz Biological Reserves which is teaming with wildlife. 

8. Beaches: Nicaragua has a Pacific coast 190 miles long and a Caribbean coast 280 miles long; both lined with sandy beaches. Visitors can be a beach bum or wallow in the lap of luxury. There are beaches for surfers and others looking for a more laid-back stay.
9. Corn Islands: Located on the Caribbean side of Nicaragua, the Corn Islands were settled by the English and English is the first language of many of the islanders.  Tourism is still in its infancy so don’t expect fancy hotels and shops.  The beaches are a draw but it is also becoming a favorite destination for SCUBA divers.

10. Matagalpa: The mountainous area is good for hiking through the primary forest and visiting coffee plantations. Selva Negra, has it all: cloud forest, wildlife, accommodations, coffee tours and visitors can even participate in coffee picking. 

Visiting Ometepe, Nicaragua

John and I arrived in Nicaragua late in the afternoon and so we stayed at the Las Mercedes Best Western Hotel which is across from the airport.  The hotel provides free transportation but it is walkable from the airport.  In the morning we were picked up by a car arranged by our

hotel in Ometepe, The Xalli.  The ride took several hours. We were impressed by the excellent roads and drivers. Seems the country enforces driving regulations.  We arrived in San Jorge and had a short wait for the ferry. The view of Ometepe’s Conception Volcano from the ferry was beautiful. Upon arrival on Ometepe we were met by another car and transported to Xalli for a week’s stay.

Ometepe Island, located in Lake Nicaragua, is one of the world’s

largest freshwater islands.  The island was formed thousands of years ago when sand accumulated creating an isthmus between the two volcanoes. Only the Conception Volcano is active.  Xalli Hotel is located on the isthmus with easy access to a long, sandy beach where there are often more horses than people.

Most people visit Ometepe to hike the volcanoes.  I was more interested in the history and culture so John and I went to the El Ceibo Museum which is a very large private collection turned into a museum. Ometepe has been occupied for at least

5000 years and was home to the Nahauti people who created beautiful pottery and petroglyphs. I found that the petroglyphs we saw in Nicaragua were identical to those we saw in La Mosquitia, Honduras so assume they were made by the same group of people. There were interesting large clay containers that the people were buried in.  It was their version of a casket.

The museum also had a section devoted to money.  The earliest people used cocoa beans for their money. For 100 cocoa beans one could buy a slave. Every new president issues money with their likeness on it. I was interested in the money with the face of William Walker on it.  Walker was an American who, by force, became the president of Nicaragua from 1856 to 1857.  Also, of interest was the money issued during the Arnoldo Aleman presidency (1997 - 2002) . Years ago we met him when we were on the Rio San Juan. Aleman showed up at our eco-lodge while campaigning for the presidency.

I read on the internet there was a place tourists could take a cooking

class and also see traditional dances. I made a reservation for a theatrical show which turned out to be in the home of

Jairo Sandino. When we arrived 83-year-old Fauto Aleman, who has been teaching his family the culture of the island, came out with his guitar and entertained us. For one dance and song he donned a mask which I think was to represent to old man of the

mountain. The English-speaking person I made the reservation with never showed up so we figured there was no show and got ready to leave.  Then one of the ladies of the house indicated that the girls were ready to dance.  And dance they did in the living

room.  Senor Aleman’s granddaughters, Scarleth Aleman Martinez and Alba Ligia Sandino danced for us as did Alba’s father.  One dance was about a bull fight with Alba’s father pretending to be the bull.  It was actually a great experience if a tad bit unique.