The American Tragedy

There are some books we never forget and some that we read more than once. One of those books for me is “An American Tragedy” by Theodore Dreiser. My first read of the book was in college as an assignment in an American literature class. The book, along with books like “Grapes of Wrath” is seen as the beginning of the modern American literature. I was intrigued because I knew the story was based on true events and that it took place in New York State. The climax of the book ended in my old stomping grounds, the Adirondacks. I later found out that my great aunt was working as a chambermaid at the same hotel where the main characters stayed – The Glenmore Hotel. The book shows the extent someone will go to realize the American Dream ignoring any sense of morality. The story is timeless.

When I was in Cortland recently I visited Cinch Art Space, a store with a plethora of beautiful artwork by over 50 local artists. There was everything from delicate fairies to handcrafted notepaper to fine woodwork. It is located, along with other businesses, in the old Cortland Corset Factory. I love repurposed old buildings then I learned at the building had a literary connection of sorts. When it was the Cortland Skirt Factory it was where the real-life Grace Brown and Chester Gillette worked. They became the basis of Theodore Dreiser’s “An American Tragedy” which has been named by “Time Magazine” as one the top 100 novels written in English since 1923. Interestingly, it was banned in Boston in 1927 and burned by the Nazis in Germany in 1933 because it “deals with low love affairs.”

Dreiser changed some of the names and places when writing the book but basically the story is the same. Chester Gillette was born into a successful family but his father, after a religious conversion, renounced his wealth and became a roving missionary for the Salvation Army. Gillette, however, still hankered for the good life and when his uncle offered him a job at his factory in Cortland he accepted. He had the opportunity to work hard and advanced. Knowing that he should not consort with the help, Gillette ignored the advice and began seeing Grace Brown, a hard working girl from a farm family. They usually met at her place and not in public. Meanwhile, Gillette moved up the social rung and began dating the daughter of a prominent family. Grace Brown became pregnant and wanted to get married but that would have interfered in Gillette’s hope for marrying someone from the upper class.

Fearing that Grace would expose their relationship, on the ruse that they were going on a honeymoon, the two traveled to The Glenmore Hotel on Big Moose Lake in the Adirondacks. He took her out in a canoe and probably hit her with the canoe paddle or his tennis racquet, the canoe overturned, she drowned. She left her belongings behind but Gillette took his suitcase and tennis racquet. He ditched the racquet on the way to Inlet, NY; he checked into the Arrowhead Hotel where he was arrested. His trial attracted international attention – the OJ trial of its time. He was executed in Auburn Prison.

Besides Dreiser’s book there have been several stage and screen adaptations including the 1951 award-winning movie, “A Place in the Sun” starring Elizabeth Taylor.

Interesting places to visit in Cortland County

I wasn’t sure if visiting the Dragonfyre Distillery would be

worthwhile.  I have been to many distilleries and they are all pretty much the same.  However, when we drove up a side road and saw a sign “Beware of low flying dragons” I was intrigued.  And then alongside of the road there was a Small bright blue door to the Hobbit and I knew it was going to be worth the drive.  Before entering I saw a fairy door and I knew I was going to meet and see someone interesting.  

One of the first thing I noticed was their “Most Holey Knight: Sir Lea Kaslot” and the fact that there were dragons and fairies everywhere. You might say there spirits everywhere. Oh, and yes, there is a copper distillery, two of them, hand made by the owner Vincent Pedini.  He learned the process from his father who learned from his father but he is the one that decided to market the spirits.  Everything is

blended from locally grown products and none of the spirits have been blended with products from elsewhere. His wife, Donna, is the Artist in Residence.  Not to miss is the “necessary room” where Donna painted all surfaces including the ceiling and floor turning it into a magical forest inhabited by an interesting variety of denizens including dragons and fairies.  It was definitely worth the trip and on the way out I spotted a fairy in the forest waving “Good Bye” to us. 

Our last stop on the way home was in Homer.  We were told that the world’s largest pair of pants was in Homer Men & Boys store.  They are 8 feet tall. I wasn’t that impressed.  I don’t know what I expected but the store itself was impressive.  I have never seen such a large store with so much merchandise.  Every inch of the store is covered in huge piles of clothing, shoes, coat, and other apparel, Their motto, “If we don’t have it you don’t need it,” rings true.  They have been family run since 1951.  They also take on-line orders.

There was one more place we wanted to stop but on the way out of Homer I saw a beautiful octagon house and just had to take a

picture.  Octagon houses were popular for a short time in the mid-1800s.  It was thought to be cheaper to build, allowed for more living space, received more natural light and was easier to heat. It was also the time of spiritualism and religious movements in New York State.  Some people believed that an octagon house would prevent “spirits” from hiding in corners. 

Our last stop was at Tartan Acres located on a hilltop with great views.  I was surprised to learn the owner, Ken Clark, was from Mexico, NY where I had lived for 50 years. He and his wife purchased the property and remodeled the farm house planning to open a B&B but then Covid 19 hit so everything is on hold.  His wife, Brenda, saw alpacas at the state fair and her

love for them ended with raising them.  They have about 80, some of which were just born. We petted some and were amazed at how soft their fur is. They often host an open house and provide “Alpaca 101” classes for those interested in owning and raising alpacas.  The alpaca regarded us with an inquisitive expression.  It is easy to see how people become enamored with them.

For Piano Lovers

Most small towns have a hidden gem.  Hunter, a small town nestled in the Catskill Mountains, is no exception. Hunter is best known for Hunter Mountain Resort where they offer multi-seasonal activities from skiing to the sky ride.  But there is something in the village that is really unique. 

The Piano Performance Museum is home of a one-of-a-king collection of historic pianos and musical artifacts. Housed in part of bright blue building that is home to the Performance Center, the museum is home to the Steven E. Greenstein piano collection.

The collection includes early and modern keyboard

instrument including European historic pianos, as well as American pianos built in the 18th and 19th centuries. The collection shows the development of the instrument from the small piano forte, built for use in private homes and salons, to the modern piano, built for large concert halls. The collection also includes tuning tools and repair kits, some 200 years old, leather-wrapped with a place for each tool; tuning forks, hammers—

everything that would allow a technician to bring a piano back to maximum performance standards.  The collection includes an 1851 Chickering, of the same style as the piano in the Lincoln White House. Piano Shawls: A display of beautiful, one-of-a-kind hand-embroidered silk throws that were popular adornments of pianos in people's homes in the 19th century. The museum is located in the Doctorow Center for the Arts that hosts a myriad of event throughout the year. 

I was fascinated by the collection of miniature pianos that was recently donated to the museum.  I think the owner must have had fun collecting them.  There are some the size of a thumb nail.  They range from the delicate glass pianos to whimsical ones.  Of course, there is one of Schroeder playing the piano with Lucy watching.  I appreciate the dedication of people who have a passion for one thing and then donate to someplace where many people can enjoy it. 

There is another gem in Newark, NY.  Located in a dedicated area of the Newark Library is the Hoffman Clock Museum. Ever notice how our lives are governed by time.  Gone are the days when it was either morning or night, or before the sun is high in the sky and after it is. Time keeping dates back 5000 years to the Babylonians and Egyptians.  Since then there have many devices to control our daily life.  When I was

teaching I was amused by the fact the class would end at 9:32 or some other very precise number. The museum details the history of timekeeping. This unique collection of timepieces has something for everyone and includes over 300 clocks, watches and tools. Exhibits introduce the visitor to the development of timekeeping technology and provide a wide variety of clock styles. There is an organ clock and time clocks. A special emphasis on the history of New York State clock makers makes this museum a truly exceptional place to visit.

These small collections allow me to learn a lot in a short time while being focused on one topic.  I sometimes wonder how a person becomes so entranced by an object that they collect obsessively. I visited the Pez Museum when I was in California.  It was fun and interesting but it made me wonder how the person got started.  I know if I collected it no one wants and it isn’t worth anything, to wit: silver, crystal, Toby Mugs, 

Driving along Route 20

U.S. Route 20 runs from Boston, Massachusetts to Newport, Oregon. It is 3,365 miles
long. In New York, US 20 extends 372.32 miles from the Pennsylvania state line at Ripley to the Massachusetts state line in the Berkshire Mountains. US 20 is the longest surface road in New York. It is more historically significant than Route 66.

U.S. Route 66  was one of the original highways in the U.S. Highway System. The highway, which became one of the most famous roads in the United States, originally ran from Chicago, Illinois to Santa Monica, California covering a total of 2,448. 
Why is it more popular that Route 20.  Publicity. It was made famous culture by the hit song "Get Your Kicks on Route 66" and the Route 66 television series, which aired on CBS from 1960 to 1964. Route 20 needs someone to write a song about it and/or develop a TV series. 

I think it would be wonderful to drive the length of it, exploring all the small towns along the way.  That is not going to happen but it is easy to explore Route 20, which is also a Scenic Byway, one area at a time. 



One way to experience Route 20 might be by selecting one county and use it as a base for exploring the area. Schoharie County is a great place to visit. Drive the historic Route 20 Byway between Sharon Springs and Esperance and/or explore Schoharie County’s less-traveled roads enjoying the tranquility and beauty of the countryside taking a few side trips. The county is dotted with classic Main Street towns featuring unique shops with locally made goods, art galleries, restaurants, and restored turn of the century accommodations. Step back to an earlier time in Carlisle, Cobleskill, Esperance, Middleburgh, Sharon Springs, and the historic village of Schoharie. In Sharon Springs don’t miss the Beekman 1802 Mercantile made famous in the “Fabulous Beekman Boys” of reality TV fame. Too bad they didn’t use the show to promote Route 20 and write a hit song “The Fabulous Beekman Boys of Route 20!” 

Schoharie County is dubbed the “County of Caves.”  For six million years Mother Nature carved out amazing underground caverns. The most famous is Howe Caverns where visitors descent 156 feet below the Earth’s surface to journey through the expansive main cavern marveling at the stalactites and stalagmites and then take a boat ride on the underground River Styx. If you haven’t been to Howe Caverns in a while then you will be amazed at all the adventurous things to do besides explore the cave. There is a zip line, ropes course, rock wall, H2OGO Balls, a motel, and more. Nearby is another underground wonder, the Secret Caverns, complete with a waterfall. 



Before the first European settlers arrived in 1712 the area was home to the Iroquois. The Iroquois Museum, near Howe Caverns, is housed in a building that recalls the traditional longhouse offering an insight into Iroquois culture by promoting Iroquois art and artists. There is a nature trail plus a variety of festivals, events, and learning activities for all age groups.

The Old Stone Fort Museum Complex in Schoharie includes several buildings: a 1700s home, a 1780 Dutch barn, a one-room school house, plus a 1772 stone church that was fortified and attacked by the British forces in 1780. Take note of parishioners’ names that the builders chiseled into the stones. The Treasure Hunt of the Fort’s eclectic museum collection is fun for all ages. Try to find a shield from the Philippines, a button with a photograph on it, and a glass tombstone. A variety of historical events are reenacted throughout the year.

Learning about the Underground Railroad

While the museums are closed now they will reopen. Most have web sites. The Underground Railroad (UGRR) was not a railroad nor was it underground.  It was a secret network of people who hid and guided slaves to freedom.  Until the passage of the Fugitive Slave Act of 1850, a runaway slave only had to get to a free state like New York State to enjoy freedom.  All that changed in 1850 when the new act required that escaped slaves had to be returned to their masters and that the people of the free states had to cooperate making it necessary for a runaway to find freedom in Canada.  New York State with its long border with Canada became an integral part on the Path to Freedom.  There are many homes, churches, barns and other sites that were used to hide slaves throughout New York State some of which can be visited. Because of the danger in aiding and hiding runaways, many of the people who helped and the places slaves were secreted will never be known.

1. Starr Clark Tin Shop and Underground Railroad Museum: One of the newest museums connected to the UGRR is located in Mexico (NY) where Starr Clark served as a station master. Jerry McHenry, of the Jerry Recuse fame, is the most famous of the runaways who made their way to freedom and most likely the Oswego County portion of his journey was organized by Clark. Jerry was hidden in a local barn for two weeks before being taken to Oswego and then by boat to Canada.

2. The National Abolition Hall of Fame: The Hall of Fame in Peterboro is the perfect place to start for an overview of the UGRR. In 1835 when the NYS Antislavery Society tried to hold their meeting in Utica they were driven out by a mob to Peterboro where Gerrit Smith welcomed reformers especially abolitionists.  The Hall of Fame is located in the Smithfield Community Center where that historic meeting was held. The Gerrit Smith Estate, a National Historic Landmark is located nearby. 
3. Harriet Tubman House:  Harriet Tubman, the “Moses of her people,” was an escaped slave who put herself in danger by making thirteen trips into slave states rescuing seventy enslaved family and friends. She was a Union Spy and worked for women’s suffrage. Her house in Auburn was a home for the aged. She would tell the often frightened slaves that, "on my Underground Railroad, I never ran my train off the track and I never lost a passenger." She is buried in the local cemetery. Nearby is the Seward House. Seward’s wife was deeply committed to the abolitionist’s movement.
4. Murphy’s Orchard: The 65-acre family-owned farm in Burt,

north of Lockport, has a secret underground room accessed from the floor of the barn where runaway slaves were secreted on their way to freedom. The farm was established by Charles and Anna McClew who were involved in the UGRR.  The location of the farm’s proximity to the Erie Canal made it an ideal location on the route to freedom in Canada. Tours are available.
5. Lewiston: Near the banks of the Niagara River is the Freedom Crossing Monument which honors fugitive slaves who sought freedom in Canada and the local volunteers who aided them. The Niagara River was a gateway to freedom and often the last stop on the way to Canada. Nearby at Niagara University, the Castellani Art Museum has a collection of artifacts and photographs plus several informative audio stations called “Freedom Crossing.” 
6. The North Star Underground Railroad Museum: Located in Ausable Chasm, the museum reveals the hidden history of the Champlain Line of the UGRR with compelling stories of fugitives from slavery who passed though the area on their way to Quebec and Ontario, Canada including a multimedia production detailing the story of John Thomas and his family’s escape from slavery. 

Iroquois Museums

There are several places in New York State to learn about the Iroquois – many have special events and several are seasonal. The Iroquois, also known as the Haudenosaunee, were originally called the Five Nations, the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas, and Senecas but were later joined by a sixth nation, the Tuscarora. The original homeland of the Iroquois was in New York

between the Adirondack Mountains and Niagara Falls. Through conquest and migration, they gained control of most of the northeastern United States and eastern Canada. They formed a remarkable political and diplomatic organization called the League of the Iroquois which united the Five Nations. So impressive was the League that drafters of the United States Constitution, including Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson, included ideas from the League such as balance of power in the US Constitution. 

1. The Great Law of Peace Center, Liverpool: It was once the

site of Sainte Marie among the Iroquois, the center has been has been completely renovated and is now the Skä•noñh-Great Law of Peace Center, a Haudenosaunee cultural center. All of the exhibits are brand new but the recreated mission remains. The heritage center tells the story of the Iroquois from the perspective of the Onondaga Nation.  The Onondagas, or People of the Hills, are the keepers of the Central Fire and are the spiritual and political center of the Haudenosaune. Learn about how the world came to be according to the Haudenosaunee and the importance of Hiawatha in the making of the Great Peace.  

2. Ganondagan State Historical Site, Victor: Located in, near Rochester, on a site of what was a flourishing Seneca community. The Seneca’s matriarchal society helped inspire the 1848 Declaration of Sentiments that led to voting rights for women. There is a new state of the arts museum plus 17th-century Seneca Bark Longhouse, walk miles of self-guided trails, climb the mesa where a huge palisaded granary stored hundreds of thousands of bushels of corn, and learn about the destruction of Ganondagan, Town of Peace, in 1687. 
3. National Museum of the American Indians, NYC: The museum located in lower Manhattan is part of the Smithsonian Institution. It is housed in the Beaux Arts Alexander Hamilton Customs House which is of interest in its own right. The collection has thousands of artifacts, some dating back 12,000 years, detailing the life and culture Native American groups from the Incas to the Iroquois.  Take note of the unique Incan Talking Strings used to recorded information. There is no admission charge.

4. Iroquois Indian Museum, Howes’ Cavern: Located in Howe’s Caverns, the museum, housed in building reminiscent of an Iroquois longhouse, is devoted to the art and history of the six Iroquois including featuring present-day artists. The outdoor is used for storytelling, talks, and various performing arts. There is a special children’s area and a 45-acre Nature Park.
5. National Kateri Shrine, Fonda: The shrine pays homage to

Kateri Tekakwitha a young Mohawk woman born in 1656 who converted to Christianity and even though her beliefs caused many hardships in her life she dedicated her life to helping others and spreading Christianity. Kateri, referred to as “The Lily of the Mohawk,” was the first Native American woman to be honored with sainthood. There is a hillside Stations of the Cross leading to a statue of the Blessed Virgin, Blessed Kateri, and other saints.  A self-guided tour booklet is available in the Gift Shop.

6. Shako-Wi Cultural Center, Oneida: Built in 1993, the Center is located near the Turning Stone Museum. It is designed to give visitors – Oneidas and non-Native Americans – pride and understanding of the Oneida’s roots and heritage. At one time basket making was a source of survival. They have one of the best-documented basket collections, including nearly 90 baskets dating from the 1800s and early 1900s. Learn about the traditional crafts: basket making, shaping a stone arrowhead, carving a wooden bowl, making moccasin and ceramic pottery.

7. Seneca-Iroquois National Museum, Salamanca: The museum has over a million objects in its collection including ethnographic and archaeological materials along with photos and information about the Seneca, “The Keepers of the Western Door,” and a cut away version of a longhouse and a log cabin another exhibit shows life in a log house from the once-thriving community of Horse Shoe.  Outside the museum is a mortar stone where corn and other items were ground. The Seneca were the largest group within the Confederacy.

Enjoying Herkimer, New York

Ok, the Herkimer Home, home of Gen. Nickolas Herkimer, is not in Herkimer but in Little Falls; however, it is where I started my day trip.  It has been on my list for years.  General Herkimer played a critical part in the American Revolution and was, in part, instrumental is thwarting the three-point British plan to win the war. When the British were marching on Fort

Stanwix in Rome; he, and the Tryon County militia, marched to reinforce the colonists in Fort Stanwix.  His force was ambushed in what is now called the Battle of Oriskany.  His side was losing.  His horse was shot, his leg injured, and, in spite of his injuries, he sat propped up against a tree, smoked his pipe, and directed his men.  He ordered them to fight in pairs so one could fire while the other

reloaded.  It worked so well that the attacking force retreated to Oswego.  The losses were so great that some families loss all their male members. Herkimer was taken to his house where his leg was amputated and he died shortly thereafter.  The British defeat at Oriskany meant the reinforcements never met up with the army of British Gen. Burgoyne. With only a third of the troops he counted on, Burgoyne ultimately surrendered at Saratoga considered a turning point in favor of the colonists who ultimately won the Revolutionary War. Today his home is a State Historical Site with a visitor center which is free and a tour of the house is available for a small fee.

Herkimer is only seven miles from Little Falls and there was another thing I have always wanted to do: diamond hunting at the Herkimer Diamond Mines. Of course, they are not really diamonds but naturally faceted quartz crystals that are diamond-like. Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, was spotted wearing a bracelet, earrings and rings made of Herkimer diamonds. I bet she didn’t mine them herself!  The price of admission includes a hammer and a plastic bag for all the diamonds

you can find.  There is also an informational video. Basically, the place has been professional mined out but there were a lot of people mining.  Some came prepared with big sledge hammers, some had tents set up as a work stations.  It was hot and hard work.  Needless to say

I didn’t find anything, nor did any of the people I asked.  The kids were happy with the “pretty” stones they found. There is also a sluice people can use to sort through the dirt for diamonds.  There were a lot of people there so I saw if more as a “gold mine” for the owners.  I can check that off my “gotta’ do” list.

The best part of the day was one of my favorite things: a ride on the Erie Canal. The Erie Canal is what made NYS the

Empire State.  The Canal was a global network for immigrants, the spread of religion, part of the Underground Railroad, and part of America’s Manifest Destiny. The cruise went through one of the oldest still operational locks on the canal system where the water level

changes 20 feet. It went past Plantation Island, a Nature Center, and one of the oldest surviving churches in NYS. In one place it is possible to see remnants of all three versions of the Canal. The original Erie Canal was such a success that it was immediately enlarged.  A great way to end a day trip to Herkimer.