Bali’s Nyepi, a “Day of Silence.”

If the show tune “Bali Ha’i” makes you think of the Indonesian island of Bali that is understandable but the song from the musical “South Pacific” actually refers to a mystical island visible on the horizon but unreachable. Bali is reachable and is a popular vacation destination known for its forested mountain, beaches, and coral reefs plus it is a favorite for those looking for yoga and meditation retreats. 

However, I think they have one special day that would be helpful if every place had one day like Bali’s Nyepi, a “Day of Silence.” Every March the people of Bali celebrate the Hindu holiday of Nyepi; it is a time of fasting, and meditation. It is the day before their new year and a public holiday of silence,

observed from 6 a.m. until 6 a.m. the next morning. Nyepi is a day reserved for self-reflection; and as such, anything that might interfere with that purpose is restricted. The main restrictions are no fires, lights must be kept low, no working, no entertainment, no traveling; and, for some, no talking or eating. Although Nyepi is primarily a Hindu holiday, tourists are not exempt from the restrictions. Although they are free to do as they wish inside their hotels, no one is allowed onto the beaches or streets, and the only airport in Bali remains closed for the entire day. Everyone could probably benefit from such a day. Balinese religious wardens arrest locals and tourists for violating the rules. Just think a whole day without the internet, TV, radio, cell phones – a day of thinking and reflecting.  I think it must be good for the mind and spirit.  

Interestingly, Bali is just one of many Indonesian islands but while

most Indonesians follow the Islamic religion the most predominant religion of Bali is Hindu. Tanah Lot Temple, about 12 miles north of Kuta, is one of Bali’s most important landmarks famed for its unique offshore setting.  The onshore site has smaller

shrines, restaurants, and a cultural park presenting regular dance performance. It can be easily accessed by a short trail across the golf course of Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort where the caddies are young ladies. 

Hinduism is considered by some as the world's oldest religion with roots and customs dating back more than 4,000 years. One way to learn about Hinduism is from the story Ramayama written in the 3rd or 4th century BC. Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, is robbed by his father's second wife of his rightful position as heir to the throne of the kingdom and is banished to the forest. His beautiful and faithful wife, Sita, and his younger brother, Laksmana, accompany him. Trials, separations, and other tribulations ensue. Several resorts have specially constructed Balinese theaters and present Ramayana on a regular basis.   Fortunately, guests are provided with a synopsis of each scene so the story is easy to follow.

The beaches are the biggest tourist draw including the white sand beaches of Kuta, Nusa Dua, and Sanur. There are also black sand beaches in the north. Even if the beaches are the reason for the visit one should make time to learn about the unique culture. 

We often forget the places outside of the United States where terrorists have killed and injured people. When in Kuta John and I paid our respects at the memorial where in 2002 at least 202 were victims of a terrorist bombing including 88 Australians, seven Americans, and visitors from 23 other countries. 

Making Fish Satays at the Pan Pacific in Bali

Travel is and should be a learning experience. Cooking classes or experiences are a fun and delectable way to learn about a local culture.  When John and I were at the Pan Pacific Niwana in Bali, Indonesia we participated in a cooking class.  Hotels often make such classes available to their guests. We have found that people are happy to share their culture and during a cooking experience we often learn more about a local culture the goes beyond the culinary aspects.

Chef M. Kadek Ari Utami taught us to make several Balinese dishes

including fish satay.  We knew that she was her parent’s second child because Balinese traditionally include the word for the child’s birth order in their child’s name. Kadek means ‘second born,’ Wayan indicated ‘first born,’ while Nyoman is reserved for the ‘third born’ and the ‘fourth born’ is Ketut.  A fifth child may be called Wayan Balik which means Wayan again. And so it goes. 

We are usually in Asia for Earth Hour when, in 2013, more than 7000 places in 153 countries and territories turned off their lights for an hour in an effort to bring attention to energy conservation and the need to protect the environment. I think the Balinese go one step better and have been doing so for years but their energy saving is just an extra benefit in the way they celebrate a religious holiday. I would love to be in Bali on Nyepi

Day, the Balinese day of silence. It is the beginning of the new year according to the Hindu calendar and usually occurs in March. It is 24 hours of reflection without the noise of vehicles, TVs, and even the airport is closed to traffic. While most of the people in Indonesia are Moslem the majority of the people in Bali are Hindu but even the non-Hindu people of Bali observe Nyepi Day out of respect. Imagine 24 hours without the sound of cars, radios, TVs or any other man made noise. On Nyepit Day guests at the Pan Pacific Nirwana can swim in the multi-level pool, enjoy a spa treatment, play golf on the Greg Norman course, and walk to the Tamah Lot Temple. I think a day of silence would benefit people and the environment.  

After our cooking lesson we took the short walk across the golf course to Tamah Lot Temple, located on a rocky outcropping just off shore. It is an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. For more information check Panpacific.com

Minced Fish Satay (Sate Lilit) 
2-3 shallots
5 cloves garlic
1 oz fresh ginger
2 tbsp turmeric 1-2 stalks lemon grass
1 oz galangal (if available)
1/2 (one half) oz red chili
½ (one half) oz bird’s eye chili
3 bay leaves (kaffir leaves if available)

2 lbs minced mackerel (can substitute other kinds of fish or meat)
3 tbsp fried shallots (or onion)
5 shredded lemon leaves (remove stems)
1 tbsp palm sugar (or dark brown sugar)
1 tbsp shrimp paste 
3 tbsp thick coconut milk

Blend the shallots, garlic, fresh ginger, turmeric, lemon grass, galangal, red chili, bird’s eye chili and bay leaves to make bumbu lengkap, a Balinese seasoning paste. Mix together with fish, fried shallots, lemon leaves, palm sugar, and shrimp paste. Add coconut a little at time to make a mixture that will hold together on the skewer.  Shape mixture on skewers and grill until light brown and thoroughly cooked.

Bali - Indonesia’s most popular tourist destination

Bali is just one of many islands in Indonesia but it is the most famous.  The name “Bali” conjures up images of gentle seas, swaying palms, sunny skies, and days of relaxation. And, so it is.  We are fans of Air Asia, a no-nonsense budget airline. The trick is to book early to get a promo fare and to pay for luggage at the time of booking. The three-hour flight was about $200.  I like it when we are picked up at the airport and that was part of our package with Pan Pacific Nirwana. Tourism continues to grow in Bali so they are expanding the airport and constructing new highways to eliminate traffic congestion.

The huge Pan Pacific property is located in a quiet area on the southwest coast.  It is an oasis of serenity. We are long-time fans of Pan Pacific and have stayed at several Pan Pacific hotels over the years and never been disappointed.  Their property in Bali is one of their few resort hotels.  When we arrived we were announced by the ringing of a gong. The open-air lobby looked out to the sea. It was a great beginning to a great stay. 

Our room was lovely and had a balcony with a view of the sea and pool. The huge pool was especially wonderful. It conformed to the landscape with pools on several levels that could be accessed by steps or a water slide. There were many private lounge areas some shaded by frangipani trees.  I like that instead of everyone gathered around one pool. There were plenty of activities. The 18-hole Greg Norman golf course was especially popular. There were incredible views of the Indian Ocean that could have been distracting to some golfers. Uniquely, instead of the traditional male caddies there were caddy girls clad in light blue with rice paddy hats making for a unique photo opportunity. The golf course is located next to working rice paddies where guests can learn the different stages of rice growing and even try their hand at harvesting.

I am not a golfer and it was not rice harvesting time so I took a break from the pool and went to the Nirwana Spa where I had a traditional Balinese massage. Balinese massage is very relaxing unlike Thai massage which John claims is like getting “beat up in slow motion.”   One of the enticing views from the resort is Tanah Lot Temple. The name in Balinese means, “land in the water;” and, that is exactly what it is. The 15^th century temple, one of seven sea temples on the Balinese coast, is on a large rock cut off from the mainland during high tide.  One morning we walked along the coast trail from the resort to the Hindu temple. The trail passed through the golf course and by the rice fields.  The temple is a popular tourist spot but access to the temple is only permitted on special feast days.

Balinese food is excellent so John and I signed up for Pan Pacific’s Balinese cooking class where we learned to make Indonesian Salad, Minced Fish Satays, and Banana Fritters. Each evening we made sure we joined other guests at Sunset Lounge to watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean. We did not arrive on time for the Wednesday weekly Balinese cultural show. Next time! The Pan Pacific Nirwana is a “life is good” kinda’ place.