Palau is awesome...

Imagine a group of islands that look like they have been untouched by the hand of man, and yet has resorts and services that are top notch. Palau, in the western Pacific Ocean and part of Micronesia, only has a population of 20,000 but offers wonderful adventures.

1.     Early history: The Belau National Museum, the oldest museum in the Micronesian region, is the perfect place to learn about Palau from the authentic full-sized men's meeting hall (bai) to displays connecting the culture of Palau to other Pacific Island nations.

2.     Mysterious past: At the northern end of the island of Babeldaob are ancient monoliths left by the early Palauans. The locals believe the monoliths may have supported a huge bai. Besides the 37 stone monoliths Palau is home to other mysterious stonework.

3.     The war: It is hard to imagine the horror that took place on the serene islands of Palau during World War II. The Peleliu WWII Memorial Museum recalls the Battle of Peleliu, called “The Bloodiest Battle of the Pacific.” Peleliu is a memorial site for both American and Japanese troops. Many of the military installations, such as the airstrip, are still intact.

4.     Riverboating:  A short and informative jungle trail lined with fern trees, wild orchids, gorilla arm trees, and canon ball trees leads to Ngerdorch River and the riverboat.  On the walk learn about the Noni Tree, which can “cure anything.” On the river cruise through a mangrove forest catch site of a Palau Fruit Dove, Bush Warbler, Rusty Capped Kingfisher, and even a crocodile.

5.     The reefs: Learn about the reefs and its denizens at the Palau International Coral Reef Center. Their aquarium features a series of both outdoor pools and marine tanks, which showcase the variety of habitats and marine life found in Palau. It gives an intimate firsthand look into the diverse world of the coral reef.

6.     Jellyfish ballet: Join one of Sam’s Tours to Jellyfish Lake, one of the Underwater Wonders of the World. In a landlocked saltwater lake, snorkel with thousands of delicate pink stingless jellyfish that seem to be performing an underwater ballet. Getting to Jellyfish Lake requires a short but steep hike up then down a rocky path, but it is worth it.

7.     Dive in: Palau is all about diving. The Rock Islands, a collection of beautiful foliage-covered isles are surrounded with waters that are home to a diverse Technicolor paradise of fabulous drop-offs, blue holes, breathtaking reefs, and an amazing variety of fish. Few places in the world can compare to the variety and density of underwater life found in the waters around Palau.

8.     Go fish: Fish ‘n Fins offers fishing trips daily with local fishermen who know the right time and place for fishing. Trolling, casting, bone fishing, bottom fishing and spear fishing trips are available. Catch the great prizes of the ocean such as Blue Marlin, Yellow Fin Tuna, sailfish, barracuda, and wahoo.

9.     Sense of Wonder: The eco tour starts with sipping an energizing tea that prevents heat stroke then slathering the soft white part of a sprouted coconut on exposed body parts as sun and bug protection. Kayak through the amazing mangrove stopping at a mystifying site created by the Taro Goddess. End with a lunch of locally inspired specialties.

10.            Giant money: Carp Island Resort is a sanctuary to frigate birds, white egrets and a variety of additional birds, After kayaking, hike a jungle trail to see Yap stone money, the world largest money. 

Remembering Sri Lanka

The terrorist attack that happened recently in Sri Lanka is horrific

but if we are not familiar with a place or the people who experienced the horror it quickly slips from our mind.  More than 250 were killed.  John and I visited a couple years ago and our son, Jim, stayed at one of the hotel that was attacked more recently on a business trip so it felt more personal. Sri Lanka is a great destination and the people were very welcoming.

Sri Lanka is home to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, an array of beaches, exotic animals, plus it’s affordable. All of this is packed in a country the size of West Virginia. One morning we toured the bustling capital, Colombo, which has many of the British colonial buildings plus an ornate Hindu temple and Slave Island. Slave Island was originally a place where the Dutch kept the slaves they brought to Sri Lanka to build the

canals they needed for transporting goods from inland to the harbor. Today it is a relaxing little island in a large pond that was once home to crocodiles that deterred slaves from trying to escape. Eventually the slaves were returned to Africa. Sri Lankan culture has been influenced by the Dutch, Portuguese, English, and Indians. 

I am a sucker for World Heritage Sites. I was impressed by the Golden Temple of Dambulla which dates to the 1st century BC and where a long row of saffron-robed monk statues bearing alms are heading toward the giant golden Buddha. At the iconic Sigirya, built in the 5th century, I would have liked to climb to the top the Lion Rock to see the ancient city and gardens

but it was a bit too strenuous for me however the rock that towers 600 feet over the plain is impressive as were the moats surrounding it. My favorite World Heritage site was Polonnaruwa archeological site mainly because many of 900-year old ruins are still discernible and diverse in nature with palaces, temples, statues, and murals. Especially

impressive were the beautifully carved statues of Buddha at Gal Vihara, one of which is 21-feet in height. One evening I strolled the walls of the 17th century Dutch fort in the coastal city of Galle. Within the walls there are many Dutch-style buildings, museums, and other attractions. Galle Fort is a living, functioning World Heritage Site.

Sri Lanka is a great destination for naturalists. We were at the

Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage at 9 a.m. for the morning bottle feeding of the elephants. The 80 elephants were either orphaned or injured. Later in the morning they were led down to the river. It was obvious that it was one of their favorite activities. The young wrestled in the water like children dunking each other. I never associated the word “safari”

with Sri Lanka but that is the most popular activity at Yala National Park.  On safari I saw wild elephants, monkeys, wild boar, sambars, deer, crocodiles, water buffaloes, and a wide variety of birds; but, alas, no leopards for which the park is famous. 

Sri Lanka is a popular and affordable beach destination for

Europeans. John and I stayed at the beautiful Jetwing Beach in Negombo not far from the international airport. There are many fascinating day trips. My favorite was a boat trip on the Madu River where we visited Cinnamon Island, a temple, and a fish farm where I had a fish foot massage.  

Bali’s Nyepi, a “Day of Silence.”

If the show tune “Bali Ha’i” makes you think of the Indonesian island of Bali that is understandable but the song from the musical “South Pacific” actually refers to a mystical island visible on the horizon but unreachable. Bali is reachable and is a popular vacation destination known for its forested mountain, beaches, and coral reefs plus it is a favorite for those looking for yoga and meditation retreats. 

However, I think they have one special day that would be helpful if every place had one day like Bali’s Nyepi, a “Day of Silence.” Every March the people of Bali celebrate the Hindu holiday of Nyepi; it is a time of fasting, and meditation. It is the day before their new year and a public holiday of silence,

observed from 6 a.m. until 6 a.m. the next morning. Nyepi is a day reserved for self-reflection; and as such, anything that might interfere with that purpose is restricted. The main restrictions are no fires, lights must be kept low, no working, no entertainment, no traveling; and, for some, no talking or eating. Although Nyepi is primarily a Hindu holiday, tourists are not exempt from the restrictions. Although they are free to do as they wish inside their hotels, no one is allowed onto the beaches or streets, and the only airport in Bali remains closed for the entire day. Everyone could probably benefit from such a day. Balinese religious wardens arrest locals and tourists for violating the rules. Just think a whole day without the internet, TV, radio, cell phones – a day of thinking and reflecting.  I think it must be good for the mind and spirit.  

Interestingly, Bali is just one of many Indonesian islands but while

most Indonesians follow the Islamic religion the most predominant religion of Bali is Hindu. Tanah Lot Temple, about 12 miles north of Kuta, is one of Bali’s most important landmarks famed for its unique offshore setting.  The onshore site has smaller

shrines, restaurants, and a cultural park presenting regular dance performance. It can be easily accessed by a short trail across the golf course of Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort where the caddies are young ladies. 

Hinduism is considered by some as the world's oldest religion with roots and customs dating back more than 4,000 years. One way to learn about Hinduism is from the story Ramayama written in the 3rd or 4th century BC. Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, is robbed by his father's second wife of his rightful position as heir to the throne of the kingdom and is banished to the forest. His beautiful and faithful wife, Sita, and his younger brother, Laksmana, accompany him. Trials, separations, and other tribulations ensue. Several resorts have specially constructed Balinese theaters and present Ramayana on a regular basis.   Fortunately, guests are provided with a synopsis of each scene so the story is easy to follow.

The beaches are the biggest tourist draw including the white sand beaches of Kuta, Nusa Dua, and Sanur. There are also black sand beaches in the north. Even if the beaches are the reason for the visit one should make time to learn about the unique culture. 

We often forget the places outside of the United States where terrorists have killed and injured people. When in Kuta John and I paid our respects at the memorial where in 2002 at least 202 were victims of a terrorist bombing including 88 Australians, seven Americans, and visitors from 23 other countries. 

Making Rahkine Chicken Curry

When the leaves start to turn red and yellow my mind begins to

think of winter getaways and it always conjures up beautiful Ngapali Beach in Myanmar – my happy place.  When we first stayed at Ngapali’s Amazing Resorts in 2008 there were virtually no tourists and Amazing Hotel Ngapali was the only hotel on this stretch of beach. The hotel, while beautiful and modern, had only a few tourists. Things have changed.  Now there are a couple more hotels on the sweeping two-

mile beach but they are at the rocky end. Amazing Hotel is now fully booked most of the time, the airport has expanded but the beach is still virtually empty and the people are still friendly. Hope things don’t change too much.  I think the government would like to see Ngapali turn into another Phuket.  They have been expanding the runway; I think, with the

intention to make the runway big enough for charter planes to land.  Ten years ago arriving flights (there were only a couple) were announced by a bull horn and people could walk out on the tarmac to meet their friends. No more but the ground crew still lines up to wave goodbye as a plane departs. On the plus side, the internet is available and many places now accept credit cards – we no longer have to take pristine USDs to pay for things. 

The beach has none of the annoying things we have encountered at other beaches: no sand flies, no annoying vendors, and the beach is still virtually devoid of tourists.  John and I enjoy our morning walk to the north end of the beach to the rock topped with a small temple.  Late in the afternoon we walk the other way to where there is a mermaid atop a rock.  The sand is soft and the water is warm.  During the day we relax on the beach, read, refresh with a dip in the small infinity pool or ride the gentle waves on an inner tube.

At the end of the day we watch the sun set and wait to see the lights of the fishing boats that line the horizon like a string of Christmas lights.  Then it is time for dinner. The food is great often with a grilled catch-of-the-day fish dinner. On our last visit I asked the chef, Ms. Myint Oo, to show me how to make traditional Rakhine Hot and Spicy Chicken Curry.  Rakhine, a state in Myanmar, located on the country’s western coast, and is known for its spicy hot cuisine. This recipe is versatile. It can be made with fish and the spice can be adjusted to please the palate of everyone; plus, it is quick and easy to prepare.

Traditional Rakhine Hot and Spicy Chicken Curry

1 each: red and green chili diced (as desired)
2 tsp. chicken powder
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. turmeric powder
2 Tbsp. shrimp paste
2 Tbsp. peanut oil
2 chicken breasts
2 tsp. tamarind juice
1.5 cups water
5 pieces hot basil leaves
1 tsp. diced coriander leaf garnish

In a mortar grind chili, chicken powder, salt, turmeric powder, and shrimp paste. Heat oil in skillet. Add chili mixture, stir until it turns yellow. Sprinkle mixture on chicken and rub it in. Cut chicken into one-inch pieces. Add chicken, tamarind juice, water, and basil leaves to skillet. Cook over medium heat until chicken is done.  Garnished with coriander and serve with rice. 

Crazy Rich Asians

 Singapore has to be one of the most perfect countries; at least, to my way of thinking.  It is sparkling clean and people-friendly. When Rachel Chu, the leading lady, gets off the airplane at Singapore’s Changi airport, she marvels, “An airport with a movie theater…” I always notice is how quiet it is. The airport has a sunflower garden, a butterfly garden, a nature trail, plenty of child friendly activities, along with artwork,

shopping, and eateries. Transit passengers have a choice of four free tours while they wait – including a tour of Singapore. Amazingly, the airport is self-supporting and has some of the lowest landing fees.  Changi is the only Singapore airport but on the way into the city center the multi-lane highway is lined with flower pots that can be remove to provide a landing strip in case Changi is disabled.  Closer to the city the overpasses are draped with beautiful flowers. 

Rachel is mesmerized by her first view of the city with the

towering Singapore Flyer. Called an Observation Tower, it was the world’s tallest wheel when it opened in 2008.  In the background is the Marina Bay Sands with the world’s largest roof top infinity pool.  It is featured near the end of the film with the synchronized swimmers performing. 

At one-time Singapore was referred to as “the cess pool” of Asia.  All that changed when Lee Kuan Yew became the first prime minister. He instituted some draconian measures: visitors were turned away if they had long hair and chewing gum was banned. My youngest son, Jim, spent a semester at National University of Singapore and when he saw the list of things that were banned he was having second thoughts but then realized he didn’t do any of those things – urinating and spitting in the street, spraying graffiti, public nudity. Many places have such laws but as a cab driver told me, “In Singapore we enforce our laws.” One may recall the American teen who was sentenced to six strokes of the

cane for theft and vandalism.  Even the international attention brought about by his well-to-do, crying mom didn’t make a difference.

The colonial-style Raffles is where the hotel scenes were filmed. It is one of several luxury hotels in Singapore; it is one of the oldest. The hotel’s Long Bar is where the Singapore Sling was invented. We thought it tasted like Hawaiian Punch.

The Merlion, a mythical creature with a lion’s head and body of a fish, is the icon of Singapore. Today it is prominently displayed along the river in front of what was once the post office but now is the luxury Fullerton Hotel.

One of the movie’s last scenes is at the Gardens by the Bay. Take

note of the tree-like structures in the background. They are vertical gardens towering from 80 to 160 feet and have several functions. Some have photovoltaic cells to harvest solar energy for lighting up the trees; others are integrated with Cooled Conservatories and serve as air exhaust receptacles. 

Like many things Asian, there is a lot of symbolism most of us miss.  In the mahjong game, Rachel, from the west, is seated in the west seat while Nick’s traditional mother is in the east seat.  At the end Rachel tosses down the eight bamboo tile to intentionally lose the game and letting Nick’s mom win and she says she turned down Nick’s marriage proposal proving to Nick’s mother that not all Americans think only of money and their own happiness. 

Traditional Japanese New Year meal - Ozoni

The last days of 2016 John and I had a 24-hour stopover in Narita, Japan so I booked a stay at the Crowne Plaza Narita, which offers free airport transfers. A flyer in our room stated that the hotel offered several New Year’s events, one of which was an “osechi” breakfast. When I asked what it was Ayaka Ohara, the public relations director, explained that according to tradition nothing should be cooked on New Year’s Day. 

Osechi is a variety of colorful dishes in a bento box that is part of a traditional New Year’s morning meal that also includes ozoni.  The bento box (a box with single serving compartments) includes a variety of artistically prepared pieces of fish and vegetables. Ms. Ohara said that the next morning, New Year’s Eve morning, the chef would be making ozoni and he would be happy to show us how it is made. Ozoni is a soup containing a rice cake and vegetables – a traditional New

Year’s dish that is said to provide strength and prosperity in the coming year. On the first day of the New Year a dream that includes either Mt Fuji, a hawk, an eggplant, or all three portends a prosperous and happy New Year. 

The Japanese Chef Shimada Ikuhou said that in order to make osoni it was necessary to make dashi, a Japanese soup stock used in many recipes.

Ozoni

Dashi: Japanese soup stock

5 ½ quarts water

1 piece Konbu (dried seasoned kelp)

2 oz dried bonito shavings

Ozoni Ingredients (for two servings)

2 prawns or large shrimp

Dash of salt

1 tsp soy sauce

1 tbsp mirin (rice wine)

½ oz thinly cut white meat chicken

2 Kamaboko (1 pink and 1 white) slice each color in 1/8 in strips and tie in a knot 

6 slices of carrot (rosette cut)

2 snow peas (cooked)

2 thin slices yuzu (citrus rind)

1 Mochi (rice cake) baked

To make Dashi place water in a stock pot, add konbu, bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Remove konbu and discard. Add bonito bring it to boil. Boil for five minutes. Drain, return to pot and allow to simmer.

In dashi broth cook prawns three to five minutes until pink. Remove. In a new pot add one cup of dashi for each serving. Add salt, soy sauce and simmer for five minutes (season to taste). Add mirin, bring to boil. Add chicken, snow peas, kamaboko, and carrots cook over medium heat until chicken is cooked and vegetables are tender. 

To make mochi: Preheat oven. Bake at 345 degrees for five minutes. Put mochi under the broiler for 30 seconds. Mochi should be soft with light brown top. 

Presentation: Put one mochi in a serving bowl, arrange prawn, carrots, snow peas, chicken, and kamaboko artfully around mochi. Cover with Dashi. Garnish with yuzu.

Around the world there are different ways to wish people good luck.  In Japan making origami cranes and string them together is a way to wish people good luck. John and I were in Japan few weeks after the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. Our hotel, the Peninsula, had many origami cranes adorning the artwork in the lobby in the hope of wishing the people good luck in the future. A thousand cranes are said to bring good luck to newlyweds. On the first day of the new year a dream that includes Mt Fuji, a hawk, an eggplant, or all three means that one will be happy. 

Making Vietnamese Spring Rolls

I am often asked what my favorite ethnic food is.  I’d have to say

Vietnamese. It has a lot of fresh veggies and is never too spicy hot. My all-time favorite breakfast is pho, a Vietnamese soup served for breakfast and all day long.   The light broth is full of flavor. On my last trip to Vietnam I learned about some other traditional foods on Pandaw’s Red River/Halong Bay cruise. 

I really enjoyed visiting villages and learning about the local food.  In a village in Hai Duong province villagers were making Green Bean Cake, a specialty food of the area, and wrapping them up for sale. The sugar-cube size cake is made of green beans, sugar, vegetable oil, essence of coconut, and

grapefruit flower. Years ago Emperor Bao Dai visited the province and was offered the green bean cake to enjoy with his green tea. He liked the flavor so much he allowed the Golden Dragon, a symbol of royal power, to be used on the package. I should have tried the green bean cake with some green tea because I found it too dry and with very little flavor. 

In Ninh Giang I tried Banh Gai, sticky rice cakes, made from glutinous rice flower, gai leaf, sugar, mung beans, and wrapped in a banana leaf. I found this much more palatable.  Rice noodles are common part of many Vietnamese recipes. In one village I saw rows of rice noodles hung out to dry.

An onboard event included how to make Vietnamese spring rolls.

The spring rolls make an excellent summer treat that is easy and healthy.  All the guests got to try making their own spring roll. Assembling the ingredients was easy but I need a little more practice to make my spring roll look as neat and as perfect as Chef Rotha’s.  The spring rolls are healthy and a variety of ingredients can be used. Chef Rotha, the cold chef, suggested using two rice papers to prevent the ingredients from breaking through. The rolls can be dipped in a variety of sauces but Chef Rotha was Cambodian and shared the recipe for his Khmer dipping sauce.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls

14 round rice paper wrappers 

Several sprigs of fresh mint leaves

7 oz chicken, cooked, cut in 4 inch long, one-half inch wide strips (cooked shrimp, peeled, and sliced in half lengthwise can also be used) 

7 lettuce leaves

1 cup cooked rice vermicelli, cold

1 carrot, julienned

1 cup fresh bean sprouts

Fill a large bowl with warm water. Dip two rice papers (or one) in water for about 1 minute, until soft. Lay the rice papers on wax paper. Start layering, making sure to keep the ingredients an inch from the sides.  Place four mint leaves on the rice paper. Add 2 or 3 pieces of chicken. Top with a lettuce leaf, a small portion of vermicelli, several pieces of carrots, and then several bean sprouts Add additional mint leaves (or cilantro). To roll, fold sides inward, the tightly roll the rice paper. 

Khmer dipping sauce

3 garlic cloves, minced

3 medium red chilies, seeded and minced

2 tbsp lime or lemon juice

1 tsp sugar

1cup water

3 tbsps fish sauce

3 tsp ground peanuts

Blend garlic, chilies, juice, sugar and water. Add the fish sauce and stir. Stir in the ground peanuts. Recipe can be adjusted to taste by adding more water and/or fish sauce or chilies.

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