Things to do in Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo,

the capital and largest city in the Dominican Republic, is the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the Americas and the first seat of Spanish colonial rule in the New World. The city’s Colonial Zone is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Many people go to resorts in the Dominican Republic but I think every trip to the DR should include a few days in the historic area of the city.  

1. Alcazar de Colon: The home, one of the oldest in the Americas, was built under the direction of Diego Colon, son of Christopher Columbus, in 1510. The beautifully restored building is now a museum with a fascinating collection of European Late Medieval and Renaissance art. Although many of the furniture items are reproductions, they give visitors an idea of what life was like in Colonial Santo Domingo.
2. Museo de las Casas Reales: The building dates back to the sixteenth century and has a comprehensive display of cultural artifacts from the earliest days of the Spanish conquest to the formation of the Dominican Republic. It was home to the treasury, governor’s office, and courts. 
3. History in Motion: Hop on one of the “Chu Chu” trollies for a city tour called “500 years of History in 45 Minutes.” During the tour the narrator provides insight into local history with stories about the people who once lived there. A must-do. There are also horse-drawn carriages available for a private tour.

4. Chocolate Museum: Learn about chocolate from the cacao bean to the chocolate bar.  The museum depicts the process from start to finish.  Plan to participate in one of their workshops and make your own chocolate. If you don’t have time for a workshop you can always buy chocolate items including Cacao Liqueur and chocolate bars.
5. El Conde: Stroll down the eight block pedestrian walkway lined with Art Deco buildings that house a variety of small shops. It extends from Parque Colon to Parque Independencia and is one of the city’s oldest streets. It is the place to buy locally made souvenirs and other “treasures.”
6. Cathedral Primada de America: The first cathedral, consecrated in 1540, was built in the Gothic style. The Cathedral is home to a treasury of art, painting, monuments and tombs of archbishops from the colonial era. It is a favorite place for weddings. There are many other churches in the city.
7. Parque Colon: The park is the hub of all the activity in the historical zone.  It is centered by a statue of Christopher Columbus. Interestingly Columbus’ back is to the Cathedral and he faces the Hard Rock Café  - two faces of the city. Sit on one of the benches to soak in the local ambiance.

8. The Lighthouse: Where is Columbus buried? According to one version his remains are entombed in a newer part of the city in the towering Lighthouse which was built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ arrival in the Americas.  It was built in the shape of a cross and the powerful beam of light is said to be seen in neighboring Puerto Rico.  
9. Los Tres Ojos: While not in the historic district the limestone

cave called The Three Eyes in English is a series of three lakes one of which has a Garden of Eden look and is reached by a unique guide-propelled raft.  The lakes are connected by a series of walkways and steps. 

10. And more: There are a plethora of museums some deal with amber, larimar and rum. Stroll the Calle de Damas, the oldest paved street in the Americas. Take note of the many buildings with traditional balconies. 
.

Visit Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo, the capital and largest city in the Dominican

Republic, is the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the Americas and the first seat of Spanish colonial rule in the New World. The city’s Colonial Zone is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Many people go to resorts in the Dominican Republic but I think every trip to the DR should include a few days in the historic area of the city. 

1. Alcazar de Colon: The home, one of the oldest in the Americas, was built under the direction of Diego Colon, son of Christopher Columbus, in 1510. The beautifully restored building is now a museum with a fascinating collection of European Late Medieval and Renaissance art. Although many of the furniture items are reproductions, they give visitors an idea of what life was like in Colonial Santo Domingo.

2. Museo de las Casas Reales: The building dates back to the

sixteenth century and has a comprehensive display of cultural artifacts from the earliest days of the Spanish conquest to the formation of the Dominican Republic. It was home to the treasury, governor’s office, and courts. 

3. History in Motion: Hop on one of the “Chu Chu” trolleys for a city tour called “500 years of History in 45 Minutes.” During the tour the narrator provides insight into local history with stories about the people who once lived there. A must-do. There are also horse-drawn carriages available for a private tour.

4. Chocolate Museum: Learn about chocolate from the cacao

bean to the chocolate bar.  The museum depicts the process from start to finish.  Plan to participate in one of their workshops and make your own chocolate. If you don’t have time for a workshop you can always buy chocolate items including Cacao Liqueur and chocolate bars.

5. El Conde: Stroll down the eight block pedestrian walkway lined with Art Deco buildings that house a variety of small shops. It extends from Parque Colon to Parque Independencia and is one of the city’s oldest streets. It is the place to buy locally made souvenirs and other “treasures.”

6. Cathedral Primada de America: The first cathedral, consecrated in 1540, was built in the Gothic style. The Cathedral is home to a treasury of art, painting, monuments and tombs of archbishops from the colonial era. It is a favorite place for weddings. There are many other churches in the city.

7. Parque Colon: The park is the hub of all the activity in the

historical zone.  It is centered by a statue of Christopher Columbus. Interestingly Columbus’ back is to the Cathedral and he faces the Hard Rock Café  - two faces of the city. Sit on one of the benches to soak in the local ambiance.

8. The Lighthouse: Where is Columbus buried? According to one version his remains are entombed in a newer part of the city in the towering Lighthouse which was built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ arrival in the Americas.  It was built in the shape of a cross and the powerful beam of light is said to be seen in neighboring Puerto Rico.  

9. Los Tres Ojos: While not in the historic district the

limestone cave called The Three Eyes in English is a series of three lakes one of which has a Garden of Eden look and is reached by a unique guide-propelled raft.  The lakes are connected by a series of walkways and steps. 

10. And more: There are a plethora of museums some deal with amber, larimar and rum. Stroll the Calle de Damas, the oldest paved street in the Americas. Take note of the many buildings with traditional balconies. 

Bonaire is a great winter getaway destination

The Caribbean island of Bonaire is 50 miles north of Venezuela and 86 miles east of Aruba.  The best thing is that it is out of the hurricane belt so any time of the year is a good time to visit. There is plenty of sunshine year round. 

1. Kralendijk: Bonaire’s capital, Kralendijk, is a colorful, port city with a population of 4000 making for a great walkabout. The architecture has been well preserved. Start at the Visitor’s Center to pick up a free walking tour brochure. Visit Fort Orange, the quaint churches and Queen Wilhemina Park.  
2. History: The original inhabitants were the Caiquetios, a branch

of the Arawak Indians. Rock paintings and petroglyphs from that time have survived in several of the island’s caves. The first Europeans to claim the island were the Spanish and then the Dutch. Near the town of Rincon is the newly upgraded cultural center, Mangazina di Rei (The Storehouse of the King) where slaves were given provisions.

3. Diving: Frommer’s rates Bonaire number one when it comes to scuba diving. The island is surrounded by reefs that are pristine and easily accessible. Go out on a dive boat or enter from the shore where the access to the sea is clearly marked by bright yellow painted rocks that names the dive site.  
4. Catching the wind: It is almost always windy on Bonaire

making it a mecca for wind surfers and kite boarders.  The clear water of Lac Bay is the perfect place for beginners to learn and for freestylers who want to hone their skills. Kite boarding takes place on Atlantis Beach. 

5. Salt: The salt of Bonaire is a natural product made by the evaporation of seawater by the sunshine and wind.  The brine is pumped into crystallizers where it remains for about a year during which the salty water turns green and then a beautiful rose. When it is ready to harvest it is piled in large mountains of salt. Nearby are replicas of the small huts for the slaves who at one time worked in the salt industry.
6. Donkeys: The Spanish brought the donkeys to the island to

use as draft animals. In 1993 Dutch Nationals, Marina Melis, and her husband, Ed Koopman, established a donkey sanctuary on Bonaire for sick, wounded and orphaned donkeys. Visitors are welcome to visit and interact with the donkeys for a nominal fee. 

7. Birds: With over 200 species Bonarie is a bird-lover’s paradise. There are migrating birds, seabirds, shore birds, and land birds but the iconic symbol of Bonaire is the elegant pink flamingo. Bonaire is only one of four areas in the world where flamingos breed. 

8. Shopping: There are

several art shops in Kralendij. There is a regularly scheduled art and craft market in the city. Paintings depicting Bonaire scenes, or a stone painted yellow with the name of your favorite dive site, and a piece of driftwood art make great remembrances of Bonaire 

9. Tours: There are a plethora of tours for those who want to bike, hike, kayak, fish, go caving, have an off-road adventure, go horseback riding, repel, plus Segway tours, and a city tour in a luxurious tuk-tuk. A glass-bottom boat tour is perfect for those who want to see the coral reef without getting wet. 
10. Wining and dining: Those who want to try something new should head to the historic village of Rincon. Cadushy Distillery uses the cactus that is found all over the island to make cactus liqueur in a variety of flavors.  Posada Para Mira, also in Rincon, is one place to sample local fare such at goat stew. 

Jamaican Goat Curry

In March I needed to get away from the cold and snow of so I flew

to Jamaica using my frequent flyer miles and stayed at Samsara Cliff Hotel in Negril. The hotel is a couple hours from Montego Bay airport but the hotel provided transportation for $87. The hotel is located on the cliffs with steps down to the water.  Guests enjoyed jumping in the water from the top of the cliffs and said the snorkeling of the

bottom steps to the water was great. Their sister hotel, Legends, is located on a beach not far away with free transportation between the two.  I was glad I opted for Samsara Cliff Hotel because it was much quieter, bigger, and I was able to have relaxing massages at their oceanfront, alfresco spa solana. The hotel is wide with several options for

accommodations.  I chose one facing the water with a great sunset view.  There were plenty of places to lounge about: around the pool, near the spa, along the cliffs and it was never too crowded. 

On the drive from the Montego Bay Airport I noticed many free range goats. Wondering how goats got to Jamaica I searched the

internet.  It seems that they were introduced by the Spanish and Portuguese in the 16th century and through interbreeding and natural selection created goats that have adapted to the Jamaican climate. The hotel had a restaurant and bar with a water view but they didn’t serve any goat recipes; however, the hotel had

a second restaurant across the road from the reception area called

“Ciao Jamaica.” They served Goat Curry which made me wonder how curry, which I associate with India and the East, made its way to Jamaica. The English took over Jamaican from the Spanish and curry arrived along with people from the East India Trading Company many of whom had spent time in India. It has become a traditional Jamaican dish. Ciao Jamaica’s Chef Dwayne agreed to let me watch him prepare my Jamaican Goat Curry ($20). 

Jamaican Goat Curry

3 tbsp Jamaican-style curry powder
½ onion diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp ginger, minced
½ Scotch bonnet pepper, diced 
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 tsp kosher salt
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 lbs goat meat, cubed
½ cup sliced carrots
1/2 onion sliced
½ green pepper Julianne
1/4 tsp dried thyme of spring of fresh thyme
2 cups water
1 cup potatoes, peeled and diced

Mix two teaspoons curry powder, diced onion, garlic, ginger, scotch bonnet pepper, black pepper, and salt. Rub mixture into the meat. Refrigerate for two hours.

Heat vegetable oil in a heavy bottom skillet over medium heat.  Add the remaining one tablespoon curry powder, sliced onion, green pepper, and thyme.  Sear for one minute. Add the marinated meat and carrots. Sear.  Add water.  Cover and allow to simmer for about 1 hour 20 minutes or until the meat is tender. Add the potatoes cook for five minutes or until tender.  

The chef’s helper fancied up the plate for serving. It was delicious. I had only had goat a few time previously.  Goat meat is healthy with less saturated fat than chicken and beef and certainly better than feedlot animals.  Goats are free range and will eat just about anything. Goat meat is lower in calories, fat, and cholesterol while being high in protein and iron. I guess any meat could be substituted for goat in this recipe but Scriba Meat Market sells goat.

Negril, Jamaica

 Sometimes it takes a change in latitude for a change in attitude.  The winter was long. I needed to get away. But, where?  I wanted sun and sea.  We are lucky the Caribbean is so close with many destinations to choose from. Santo Domingo and Jamaica usually offer the best value.  I had frequent flyer miles on United and the best deal was to Jamaica.

The next decision was where to stay.  I wanted some place small, quiet, and on the water.  Jamaica seemed to offer a variety of options. John and I had been to Montego Bay so I decided on Negril.  I did not realize it was a two-hour ride from the Montego Bay airport to Negri.  I did not want an all-inclusive or someplace expensive.  A search for three-star hotels on the beach brought up Legends on Seven Mile Beach.   Sounded great but they

did not have availability for the days I was interested in and suggested their sister hotel Samsara Cliff Resort.  It wasn’t on a beach but it was on the cliff overlooking the water. What sold me was the fact that they said it was quieter than the hotels on Seven Mile Beach.  

On the drive from the airport to the hotel the driver was full of helpful information so it didn’t seem so long. Samsara had several types of rooms to choose from.  While the garden rooms looked interesting they were across the street.  The Pillar House Bungalows had great views with an outdoor shower and looked very romantic; I picked the Superior Ocean Front Room which was perfect for me.  However, I did not read the small print –

the reasonable price was per person but I was charged as if there

were two people.  A lesson learned.  Samsara passed on their all-inclusive option.  Considering the time of the year and location the rate I paid was not unreasonable. : 

Samsara is located on a cliff with steps down to the water but many of the guests enjoyed jumping from the cliffs while others raved about the snorkeling.  I

fear I did neither but enjoyed watching them.  I, however, did enjoy their pool.  There was never any problem getting a lounge plus there were many along the cliff which seemed to be the most popular.  

The hotel offered a free shuttle daily to Legends, their beach hotel.  I booked a glass bottom boat tour which left from Legends.

The tour was uninspiring but I knew it would be – it was reasonable and gave me an opportunity so check out Legends and other properties along Seven Mile Beach.  I was very happy that I was at Samsara.  Seven Mile Beach was crowded with no free lounges available and, for me, too many people.  I was also told that the area is more of a party area. Not what I was looking for.  The Samsara staff and other guests were friendly.  It was not a party destination but those who were looking for night-time fun could find it nearby.  

I enjoyed swimming in the pool and having several spa treatments.  I especially enjoyed foot reflexology in the open air spa with views of the water.  There were a variety of tours offered but I passed – maybe next time.  I relished the time in the sun and pool, the quiet time to read my books, and the live music on Sunday night.  I may return next year but for two weeks.  I wasn’t ready to come home. 

Checking out St. Thomas

Many people don’t realize that other than the 50 United States there are territories that enjoy many of the same benefits as residents of the states. The Caribbean Island of St. Thomas is one of the three U.S. Virgin Islands. Locals often refer to St. Thomas as “Rock City”, St. Croix as “Twin City,” and St. John as “Love City.”

The U.S. Virgin Islands make a great winter destination for those who might not feel comfortable in a foreign country. Visitors will find the major language is English and the U.S. dollar is the currency but there is still the tropical atmosphere and the feeling of being in a foreign country.  On St. Thomas they drive on the left side of the road even though many of the cars are American style which has be a bit unnerving if one rents a car; however, there is not a lot of traffic. There are only about 52,000 people on the island. Also, if one’s health is an issue keep in mind that health insurance is valid in U.S. territories. 

Getting to St. Thomas is easy as there are frequent flights offered by several airlines with some flights under $400, if you shop around.  Check out Google Flights.  Right now my airline of choice is Jet Blue. Another way to arrive in St. Thomas was by boat. If you don’t have your own dozens of cruise ships arrive every week including Celebrity, The Queen Mary, and Royal Caribbean. The island suffered significant damage after Hurricane Maria.  There is still evidence of the damage but the cruise ports are ready and so are many hotels.

We stayed at Emerald Beach Resort. The hotel has a relaxed atmosphere, a nice beach and, literally, right next to the airport. There are several options to fit all pocketbooks. 

St. Thomas is the gateway isle of the in the Caribbean and is known for its beaches and snorkeling spots. The capital Charlotte Amalie, founded by the Danish in the 1600s, is a busy cruise-ship port. Historic buildings

include a 1679 watchtower called Blackbeard’s Castle, in reference to the area’s pirate history. I could see it high on the hill and wanted to visit Blackbeard’s Castle but it is not open. It was not badly damaged by the hurricane but like mainly because, like some other places, they are using this time to upgrade. 

Located on the harbor, 17th-century Fort Christian is now a local-history museum and a National Historic Site named for the named after Danish King Christian V.