Refresh at Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport in Thailand

No matter how one gets to Asia it is a long, arduous trip. Flights to Bangkok are often the best deal. During our three-plus months in SE Asia we fly through Bangkok several times; sometimes via Suvarnbhumi Airport, usually referred to as Bangkok International airport.  The other airport is Don Mueang International.  I love it when our flights arrive at

Suvarnabhumi because we stay at the Novotel at the airport.  All flights to Thailand from Europe and the US arrive at Suvarnabhumi.  After 20+ hours of traveling I do not want to continue to another destination, not even Bangkok city which is an hour’s drive.  The airport is very modern and Novotel makes getting to the hotel hassle-free. When we exit the baggage area we just walk to Exit Door 4 where the Novotel agent is waiting.  He escorts us to the hotel’s van. The airport is about 10 years old and so is the Novotel.  Why they didn’t make direct access from the airport to the hotel is a mystery.

The Novotel is the perfect place to get rid of jet lag and

refresh.Walking into the bright, airy four-story atrium brightens the mind and spirit. The lobby is huge with five restaurants/bars plus a Business Center.  One of the unique benefits is that there is no set check in/out time. The room is ours for 24 hours. We usually arrive about midnight so we don’t have to get up and rush out in the morning. People going on the Bangkok city can catch a cab from the hotel, less hassle than dealing with a taxi at the airport or take the Skytrain into Bangkok with direct access from the hotel. People flying can take the free shuttle back to the airport.  For those flying to Phuket or one of Thailand popular beach locations will most likely find that staying at the Novotel will be less expensive than the night at an island resort. 

The hotel has one of the most attractive rooftop pool of any airport hotel with afull-service spa and well-equipped gym just steps away. The spa offers a special treatment to alleviate the symptoms of jetlag.  Last year they were celebrating their 10th year so that had a special lottery. I drew the lucky envelope and received ten free massages. It was good for one year and I managed to use six of them.

The rooms are excellent – think five-star hotel. This Novotel is

much more upscale than most Novotels.  Join their loyalty program and book via their website for the lowest rate and free internet.  The room can be booked with or without breakfast.  The breakfast buffet is absolutely huge – unlike anything stateside; besides the usual breakfast items there are f

resh vegetables, several kinds of soup, curries, and many other things.  It may be breakfast for some but dinner for others so everything is available for all ethnic groups. John and I like their Executive Club Level. For the extra money we get breakfast (in the restaurant or club), cookies midday (John never misses) and evening cocktails with a nice selection of hor d’oeuvres. For us it serves as dinner. The other thing we like about club level is we get express check-in and the executive lounge is always serene.   Also, we usually plan to spend our last night in Asia at the hotel to grid ourselves for the long flight home.

Staying in Hua Hin/Cha'am Thailand

People are often surprised when I say it is less expensive for us to spend the winter in Southeast Asia than it is to stay at home, and certainly less expensive than spending the time in Florida or somewhere else where it is warm and sunny. Part of the plan is to stay where the Americans do not.  Places charge what the market will bear and one thing that raises the price is if it is a popular destination for foreigners especially Americans.  John and I spend several weeks at beach resort in sunny Thailand but not in Phuket, Ko Samui, or Phi Phi Island.  We spend it south of Bangkok in the Cha’am/Hua Hin area. 

The Cha’am/Hua Hin area is a 2.5 hour drive south of Bangkok. We arrange for transportation which costs about $100 in a private car.  It is less expensive than flying to one of the islands and we get to see the countryside.  Especially interesting are the salt flats along the way.  We stay at Regent Cha’am and have for several

years but there are several options from condos to resorts in all categories. Most places like Regent Cha’am have lower tariffs for long-stays as do most hotels in SE Asia.  A long-stay can be anywhere from 5 days or one week and longer.  Most also have lower rates for returning guests.  We have made friends with an English couple who have been staying at the hotel for 20 years! They stay October and November, go back to England for December, and then return to stay from January to the end of March.

Regent Cha’am is located on a wide sandy beach.  Actually, the original beach washed away as beaches do sometimes and a new reinforced wide beach has been constructed.  We will have to see if it stays!  Mother Nature does what she wants. The hotel has two beautiful pools, extensive breakfast, daytime activities, two restaurants and a spa.  The hotel grounds are huge and beautifully landscaped. Supposedly, it was at one time the garden of a former king of Thailand. In the evening we like to walk into the little village where there are a variety of restaurants, a 7-11, shops, hair dressers, and other outlets. Meals are about $4 and great. 

There are plenty of things to do other than enjoy the hotel.  This

year we went to the International Kite Festival, a 20-minute taxi ride from the hotel. The kites were impressive and huge. Most of the big ones had a “mother” kite high in the air that was linked by string to the big ones. There was music plus food and kite vendors. Also, nearby is the former summer place of Rama VI. There are a variety of water sports including kite boarding.  Regent Cha-am has a shuttle a couple times a day into the city of Hua Hin where there is a night market and plenty of shops.  There is also an outlet storenearby. 

Some of the best flights – deal wise – are from NY to Bangkok.  We flew ANA (rated the 5th best airline in the world) from JFK to Saigon and returning to JFK from Bangkok for $565 with taxes. It is usually less expensive to take Amtrak to NYC ($50), a cab to the JFK ($65) than to fly from Syracuse on a US carrier. 

Long Stay in Asia

Many retired folks head to Florida to avoid the snow without realizing there are other options some of which are exciting and no more expensive. John and I discovered that long-staying at various hotels in Southeast Asia is more interesting. 

Before deciding on a second home away in sunny climes, consider the expenses: initial outlay to purchase, routine bills such as water, electricity, etc., maintenance costs or association fees, taxes and other miscellaneous expenses.  The benefit of long-stays is that there is none of that. 

We have long-stayed in SE Asia for several years.  Language is not

much of a problem for English-speaking people.  English is widely spoken in tourist destinations worldwide.  Yes, there is the expense of flying to SE Asia but this year our RT flight from New York to Bangkok was a little less than $800, but when you factor in other savings it is a wash especially considering we don’t drive our vehicle for three wintery months.  

One place we have long-stayed several times is Regent Cha’am in Thailand. We stay three weeks or so and it includes breakfast, internet, daily maid service and discounts on laundry and their restaurants.  One English couple we know stays for two months before Christmas, returns to England for the holidays, and then for three months.  Some Europeans have been returning to the Regent

for 20 or more years.  The Regent Cha’am has two large pools, two restaurants, an onsite clinic, daily activities, beautiful gardens, a minimart, and a spa. Six nights a week there is a duo singing all the old songs we know. We sometimes eat in the hotel’s restaurant but most evenings we walk five minutes into the little town where there are many restaurants, hair salons, tailors, and minimarts.  Meals for the two of us are normally about $15, and they are good – plenty of fresh fruit and veggies. To address the issue of food; picky eaters need not worry as American food is the default food in most restaurants worldwide. For a nominal fee the hotel has a shuttle into Hua Hin, a large nearby city. There are a variety of day trips, a kite boarding school, a golf course, and an outlet mall are nearby. 

I guess I am a restless traveler because after three weeks in one

place I am ready to move on. For nine years we have long-stayed at one of the world’s most beautiful and virtually deserted beaches. It is being discovered however. Amazing Ngapali Hotel on the Bay of Bengal in Myanmar is truly amazing.  The beach has silky sand, the water is warm and

gentle, and the service is excellent.  Even though there are several restaurants near the hotel we usually eat at the hotel because the meals are excellent and reasonable plus the view of the Bay of Bengal at night with the lights of scores of fishing boats twinkling on the horizon is hard to beat. For every five nights we receive a coupon for one complimentary dinner and two complimentary spa treatments.  Amazing Ngapali is hard to top. There are also several activities in the area such as boat rides, diving, and visiting fishing

villages and temples. 

The time may come when we want to settle down to one place for the winter but I can’t envision it – there too many interesting places to stay and places to explore. 

Long-staying a Regent Beach Resort in Cha'am

The much-loved Thai king, Bhumibol Adulyadej, also known as Rama IX, has reigned since 1946 making him the longest serving current head of state and the longest-reigning Thai monarch. When the king and the royal family want to enjoy a beach getaway they head three hours south of Bangkok to the Cha’am/Hua Hin area. International tourists, especially North Americans, usually head south,

too; but to Phuket, Phi Phi Island, Ko Samui, and other places that are reached by plane.  The current royal family has a large property on the beach near Hua Hin which cannot be visited by the public but the beach retreat of Rama VI is now a walk-through museum. The grandfather of Rama VI was immortalized in “The King and I.” The Thai/Victorian-style summer seaside palace was built in the 1920s with lots of verandas, lattice work, and high ceilings to keep it cool during the hot summer. It is beautiful.  

John and I have been to this area several times usually staying atwhat is now the Regent Cha’am Beach Resort (it was once a Holiday Inn Resort). The hotels in the Hua Hin/Cha’am area are generally less expensive than those favored by North Americans in the other beach areas of Thailand and hiring a car to drive us from the Bangkok airport to the hotel is cheaper than airfare to Phuket and other places.  (We prearrange transportation

with Sawadee Travel Company and pay on line.) We seldom run into North Americans at the Regent Hotel. The grounds are massive with impressive landscaping. There are full-size elephant topiaries at the entrance.  Someone told us it was once part of the royal gardens. The hotel offers long-stay rates so there are many European guests who stay for several

months in the winter.  The hotel usually has a special cocktail party for long-staying and VIP guests. It is a great option to renting or buying a condo.  We enjoyed the two swimming pools and extensive breakfast plus there are a variety of free activities each day from kick boxing to a cooking class to creative napkin folding.  The Regent recently opened a hospitality school to train people for professions in the hotel business. 

There are many things to do in the area.  John continued his kite surfing lessons.  The area is perfect for kite surfing as the waters of the Gulf of Thailand are not as choppy as the South China Sea and the beach is much better – wider with a gentle slope. I, personally, enjoyed reading around the pool

and taking a dip to cool off.  There are a variety of choices when it comes to dinner. The Regent has a new minimarket where we could buy cup of soup and make it in our room as almost all hotels in

Asia come with an electric hot water pot instead of a coffee maker. Sometimes we would eat at the hotel’s Mediterranean restaurant.  The veggie pizza is great and we usually had enough left over for lunch the next day. The other option was to walk into “town” which is actually a collection of shops and restaurants that serve the nearby hotels and condos. The food is great and the prices very reasonable.  It is possible to have a tasty dinner for under $5 per person. 

Visiting Pattaya, Thailand

Frequent flyer miles are not as easy to use as they used to be but we have had great luck with them in Asia.  We used United miles to fly from Shanghai to Bangkok and it only cost us $29.40 for two tickets on Thai Air.  We arrived late in the afternoon so we stayed for the night at the Novotel Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, which is lovely. The airy atrium and rooftop pool are great for alleviating jet leg. John and I were looking for somewhere different to spend a week so we picked

Pattaya, which is a couple of hours from Bangkok.  We had made arrangements with Sawadee Travel Company to transport us from the Novotel to Pattaya. After an excellent hotel breakfast which met the culinary tastes of all ethnic groups we made the two-hour trip to Pattaya. It is located on the East Coast of the Gulf of Thailand and we often stay in Cha’am on the West Coast so thought it would be interesting to check out the other side. 

In Pattaya we stayed at the Holiday Inn (gathering more points for

future stays). The hotel was bright with a contemporary flair. We are IHG members so we were upgraded to a higher floor which offered a better view of the area and we had a balcony which we always enjoy.  The hotel is set back a bit from the beach but they have a shuttle that we made use

of.  The walk along the beach was disappointing. I read the write-ups and knew that Pattaya did not have the best beach.  It was long and had many people on it but the area had a time-worn look.  It seems that they are suffering a slump in tourism.  We in the US may be enjoying the lower gas prices but it has cause an economic recession in Russia. The Russians are the new big tourist group and the area is hurting because they are not traveling this year.

The infinity pool at the Holiday Inn was wonderful.  It was located outside the restaurant on the sixth floor and where I spent my days in leisure.  One day we had a cooking experience where we learned to make Spicy Mussel Salad.  John made his with less spice. 

 The staff was wonderful and fun to cook with. I was impressed with the expansive presentation of the ingredients needed to make the recipe. I think chefs like to be recognized and show off their talents. Too often guests take them for granted.  We have found chefs very willing to share recipes and show off their skills. 

There are many things to do in the area including elephant rides and

shopping but we opted to visit The Sanctuary of Truth which we could see off in the distance from our balcony.  Had we known we would have planned to spend several hours there because there was a lot to do. The elaborately carved wooden structure was built in 1981 but has the look of an ancient temple.  The temple carvings showed the relationship between humans and the universe. Located on the waterfront, it was “The Magnificence of Heaven Recreated on Earth.” Besides touring the temple there were buggy and elephant rides.  I would have liked to take the boat ride to see the temple from the water which I think must be magnificent.

Great things to do in Bangkok

John and I have been to Bangkok many times.  It is a great

destination but also a connecting city to other destinations in Asia. There is no city quite like Bangkok.  We have several favorite things to see and do. The Temple of Dawn, Wat (Thai for temple) Arum is located on the “other side” of the river so it is not always on a typical tour as it is located across the Chao Phraya River from most of the favorite tourist destinations. It was built in the 17th century and was the first place to catch the sun but the views in the evening are just as stunning. It still has sweeping views from its higher terraces where it catches the morning sun.

It is different from other temples in that the 230-foot spire is decorated with tiny pieces of colored glass and Chinese porcelain arranged in beautiful patterns. It is a Buddhist temple and a place of worship so visitors need to keep that in mind and be respectful. 

Across the river is Wat Po, Temple of the Reclining Buddha. The

Buddha is nearly 50-feet high and 141-feet long. Of special interest are the soles of Buddha’s feet which are inlaid with mother-of-pearl designs that are associated with Buddha. Nearby are 108 bronze bowls that refer to the characters on the soles. People drop coins in the bowls which is believed to bring good fortune and help the monks maintain the temple. The temple complex is considered Thailand’s first public university. The murals that are spread throughout the complex explain a wide variety of topics from geography to science to religion. It is famed as the birthplace of Thai massage and, of course, massages are available. Thai massages can be gentle or intense.  John says a traditional Thai is like being beaten up in slow motion. 

On the must-do list is the expansive grounds of the Grand Palace that are awash with golden temples and glittering mosaics. We have been several times and it is actually best to go when there is nothing special going on as it can be very crowded or in some cases closed to the public. The most revered temple in Thailand is the one that houses the Emerald Buddha. The small Buddha is actually made of jade and has a fascinating history of being captured and recovered, then lost and found.  While there are many incredible things to see and do I am always impressed with the Yaksha which are the guardians of the temple based on the Thai benevolent nature-spirits even though the faces do not look kindly to me. They are impressive is size and design. 

I love rivers and the Chao Phraya that winds through the city with many side canals (klong) is a great place for a tour on a classic long-tail boat. There are tours of the river, klongs, to a floating market and also dinner cruises. 

Shopping is not my favorite thing to do but there many malls, street stalls, and wet markets. I did enjoy the home of the American Jim Thompson where silk is sold. Thompson was the Thai silk entrepreneur who mysteriously went missing in 1967. The house is a traditional Thai-style building with Thompson’s collection of Thai paintings and rare Buddhas on display. Bangkok is a good base for day trips to the River Kwai, the Death Railway; or to Ayutthaya, the ancient capital. 

Visiting Schools while traveling

There are many places where students go to school six days a week

including the school I visited near Siem Reap, Cambodia. Interestingly they only have classes five of the days.  On Thursdays they clean the school and work in the garden where they grow food that is used for their lunch. When I entered the fourth grade classroom all the students stood up.  After greeting them I said that they could be seated. My guide said, “No, they must stay standing as a sign of respect to their guests.”  Oh, my, I can talk for a long time.  I noticed they had their math books open to a page of problems similar to what I saw when I visited a school near my house.  

I do school programs in the United States and in many of the countries we visit.  Visiting schools is a great way for me to meet the local people and learn about their customs.  What we learn in foreign countries we then share via presentations here in the United States.  Some schools are very modern such as International Schools but in most countries there is a wide diversity in the quality of education.  I was surprised when I visited an

International School in Yangon, Myanmar.  The students were dropped off by their parents in new cars just like here in the United States.  In most international schools all subjects are taught in English. There were familiar signs in the school such as “Don’t run in the halls” and the school was decorated for Valentine’s Day.  

We also visited schools in the remote part of Myanmar where the one classroom was made of bamboo with three walls.  Most of the students wore the traditional longyis, a waist-to-ankle wraparound “skirt.”  The girls’ longyis were more colorful than the boys. I noticed one boy had on blue jeans.  He must have thought he was stylish in his Western-like outfit but the truth is that the longyi is better suited to hot, humid Myanmar. 

In many Asian schools we have visited English is being taught.  In some the more remote schools the teachers had an extremely limited command of English but taught the words they knew so we would do an impromptu English lesson.  Tourism plays an important part in the economy of many countries and the language of tourism and business is English so those with a command of English have the opportunity to get a decent job. 

Some things that are the same world over: All students have to sit in

their seat, listen to the teacher, do their work, and afterschool they like to play with their friends.  Schools around the world are interesting in their differences. In a city school in Laos the students stood in line by grades in the yard for morning announcements made by the principal on a megaphone.  At the end she mentioned all the students who had not been doing their work. Many of the remote schools, especially those in Buddhist monasteries, know that visitors will leave a donation that is much needed. Buddhist schools are free and often offer the best education in some areas.

One school we visited in China was for students who went to Chinese schools during the day but in the evenings they attend English language schools. There were one thousand students just in this one location. 

A River Cruise on the Mekong

I love river trips and our eight-day cruise on the Mekong Explorer was wonderful.  The Mekong Explorer is a beautiful teak and mahogany cruise boat that has a capacity of 34 but there were only about 20 on board making the crew to guest ratio about one-to-one. My cabin had air conditioning, a desk, an ensuite bathroom and wide sliding wooded doors perfect for viewing the countryside as we sailed along.  We boarded in Nong Khai and disembarked at Ubon Ratchathani, both of which are in Thailand.

By law there is no night travel on the river so each day we cruised a while and usually took a morning and afternoon shore trip, which were fascinating and varied. The rock formations at Phu Phrabat Historical Park (soon to be a UNESCO World Heritage site) were some of the most bizarre I have ever seen. The rocks most likely provided shelter for prehistoric people two to three thousand years ago but statues show that the area later became a place of Buddhist worship. There are great local legends associated with

the rock formations including one of a beautiful princess forced by her overprotective father to live in a rock formation that looks like on upturned shoe. Another day we visited the Buddhist Sculpture Park where a monk and his followers created concrete structures the most amazing is the one of Buddha meditating under a towering 65-foot high seven-headed Naga snake.

One morning our tour included a surreal small boat ride on a tranquil lake covered in rosy-red lotus flowers. It was easy to understand why the lotus is so admired in Asia – they are beautiful. One of my favorite days started with a long-tail boat ride up Khading River where we visited the Laotian village of Ban BagBang. The village was a mix of traditional houses made with

woven mats and new colorful cement houses. There were many satellite dishes and everyone seemed to have a cell phone.  Technology is uniting the world. I see it as a mixed blessing as remote places now have access to modern technology and conveniences but in the process they are losing their traditional ways.  

One night we tied up to a sandbar in the middle of the Mekong River. It was the dry season so there were a lot of sandbars and thankfully our captain was experienced in navigating the river. The crew prepared a bonfire and a wonderful BBQ of meat, chicken, prawns, fish and shish kabobs. The Laotian crew, after setting everything up on the beach and preparing the food, entertained us by singing some Laotian songs. 

For many the word “Mekong” conjures up visions of war but after my 8-day cruise on the Mekong Explorer I know the Mekong River between Nong Khai and Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand is serene with incredible sites to see along the way. The banks of the river are lined with vegetable gardens and rice paddies. 

The company, Cruise Mekong, which offers the cruise we enjoyed also, offers several other options including a cruise to Luang Prabang, the most popular destination in Laos.  We had already visited Luang Pragang and the surrounding area so we were happy to visit an area off the beaten track.  Some of the guests, after a night at a Tohsang Khongjiam Resort near Ubon Ratchathani, connected with the company’s cruise of Southern Laos.