The Panama Canal tour

The Panama Canal is an architectural wonder. In 1513, when the

first European, the Spanish explorer Vasco de Balboa, crossed the Isthmus of Panama, he became the first European to reach the Pacific Ocean from the Atlantic Ocean. Thus began a dream to create a water route that would provide quick, easy access between the two great oceans. The first attempt was by a

French Company in 1880. At that time Panama was part of Colombia. The French attempt failed mainly due to the cost in money and lives. When the French abandoned the project the United States became interested in a canal and even considered one across Nicaragua. The Nicaragua Canal concept is revived every so often, most recently by a Hong Kong company but it too was abandoned. The United States ended up building the canal which opened in 1914. Control of the Panama Canal Zone was transferred to Panama in 1999.  

There is a museum in Old Town devoted to the construction of the

canal plus many like to visit the Mirafloras Visitor Center located

on the canal lock where displays provide the history of the canal and the canal’s operation.  Visitors can watch ships transiting.  The Mirafloras lock is one of three on the canal; two on the Pacific side and one on Lake Gatun.  The locks allow ships to raise and lower 85 feet to accommodate for the change in the terrain. 

However, the best way to experience the canal is on tourist boat.  So, that’s what I did.  John and I did it when we were here in 2002 but I have a love and fascination for waterways so I booked the trip.  The tour company picked me up at the hotel and I was lucky because the departure wasn’t until 10 a.m. The cargo ships get first dips on the canal because the average ship pays nearly $500,000 to transit. It is first-come first-through except for those who pay an extra $15,000 or more to go to the head of the line. Princess Cruise Line pays about $425,000 plus $35,000 to have a pre-reserved time to transit. A full transit takes eight to 10 hours. Most tours are for a half transit and include a meal.

It took me a while to figure out why when one ship left the lock

another didn’t enter going the other way.  The problem is the Continental Divide.  It is too narrow from more than one ship to go through at a time so the alternate traffic; one way for 12 hours and the other way for the next 12 hours. 

My tour started with a bus ride to Gamboa on Lake Gatun, basically in the middle of the canal. We went through the Continental Divide and into Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks where we waited for a ship to join us.  

The Erie Canal had a lasting

influence on all canal building.  Both shortened the distance and time to travel drastically and, of course, brought money into the area. When ships enter and leave the locks they are drawn by “mules,” not a mule called “Sal” but today the electric ones are still called “mules.” Two on each side of the ship to keep the ship in the middle. They run on tracks. 

The complete canal transit on a tour is long and one has to return by the tour’s bus so people wishing to visit Colon on the Atlantic side of the canal might consider taking the train. 

Sancocho, Panamanian National Soup

One thing I have noticed is that every country I visit seems to have

a national soup. Two of my favorites are pho in Vietnam and caldo verde in Portugal.  Soups have to be one of the first recipes developed by a group of people.  All that was needed was water, a fire, a waterproof container, and some ingredients. We humans have been making soup for at least 20,000 years.  The earliest soup to be discovered by archeologist is hippopotamus soup dating back to 6000 BC. The word “soup” comes from the French word “soupe” which means “broth” which was derived from other sources as the word hop scotched from one country to another.

When I was in Panama City, Panama I attended a Panamanian Buffet and Folkloric Show at the InterContinental Hotel. I noticed that the line was the longest to get the soup which was called sancocho. I had used my InterContinental Hotel points to for my nine-day stay so I had no qualms about upgrading myself to Club Level for $20 a day. Club Level is a private dining area with a great view and is used mainly

by business people so it is quiet and includes the internet, breakfast, and evening libations with snacks.  I find eating alone in a crowded restaurant filled with family groups makes me feel alone and isolated.  The club is a perfect fit for me.  I asked the staff at the club about sancocho and was told the Chef Nicolas Prager, the Executive Sous Chef, would be happy to show me how to make it.   

Sancocho is common in all of Latin America but is best loved in Panama.  It can be enjoyed any time of the day and is considered the perfect hangover cure.  The Panamanian version originated the Azuero Peninsula south of Panama City.  It is claimed that one way to keep cool on super-hot days is by having a bowl of Sancocho for lunch. I have been told that in other countries.  When it is 90-plus have a hot soup or a spicy hot dish.  If it makes you sweat you will cool off because the sweat will evaporate which is a cooling process.  Can’t prove it by me.  

I loved sancocho in part because it was easy to make but included

one of my favorite flavors: cilantro. I learned there is cilantro and culantro. Culantro is common in Latin America.  It tastes and smells like cilantro but is said to be stronger.  Whereas cilantro looks a bit like parsley culantro is a slender flat leaf about four inches long.  They can be used interchangeably. Chef Nicolas said, “Culantro is in the Panamanian DNA.” This recipe is for basic sancocho but cooks have been known add vegetables such as yams, corn, and yucca.  

Panamanian Sancocho

Cooking oil as needed

1 white onion, diced

2 cloves of garlic, diced 

3 leaves of cilantro, finely sliced (3 Tbsp cilantro)

1 tsp Oregano

1 Yucca, one-inch cubes

Whole chicken (with bone) chopped in 2-inch piece

Salt and pepper to taste 

Water

In a large pot add vegetable oil, when hot sauté the onion and garlic. Add salt and pepper. Cook until the onion is transparent. Add oregano and culantro. Add chicken chunks sauté for 2 minutes to taste. Add 1 quart and a half of water. Add name or yucca. Cover the pot and let it boil. Check occasionally to see if more water is needed.  The cilantro should give it a slightly green color.  Skim off any solidified blood that may come from the chicken.  Serve hot with white rice.

Panama City, Panama

Panama City is the “New York City” of Central America. It has become a skyscraper city. It is the oldest continuously occupied European settlement on the Pacific coast of the Americas.  John and I were here in 2002 and the changes are amazing. The modern airport was extremely busy and I am impressed by the diverse nationalities I see represented here at the hotel. There are tourists from all over. Caravan Tours, which the people I talked to seemed to really like, bring in groups almost every day. A recent final Jeopardy question asked “What Central American capital is the farthest east?”  The correct answer was Panama City.  


There are three distinct parts to Panama City.  One is the old city called Panama Viejo founded in 16th century and is a World Heritage site.  There is a museum and some ruins. The city was destroyed in 1671 when it was attacked by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates. The “new” city was built in 1673 and is also a World Heritage site. 

Why am I in Panama you may wonder.  Simple.  I had frequent flyer miles on United and for only 38,000 miles I could fly round trip.  They wanted 36,000 miles to fly one way from Syracuse to Portland, Oregon.  Plus, I had points with InterContinental Hotels (think Holiday Inn) so I booked the InterContinental using points and for only $20 a day I was able to upgrade to Club Level.  I like Club Level because it is quiet with a lot of single business travelers so I don’t feel strange being alone, plus it includes breakfast, and evening cocktails with snacks.  For me it is a perfect world. One reason I picked the InterContinental is because they have a beautiful pool and are located on the water; plus. it is centrally located. 

I took a cab into the “Old Town” to visit the Cathedral and other attractions. The Old Town, called Casco Viejo, is being rejuvenated and the Cathedral is being painted. Construction on the cathedral started in 1688. There is a statue of a young boy in a glass casket, Saint Jose Luis Sanchez del Rio, who refused to

denounce his faith under torture.  Typical of many places, in the beginning the wealthy lived in the area around the Cathedral, then they moved out to the “suburbs,” and the poorer people took over, now wealthy are moving back in.  A cycle that happens in many places.

I like to go to folkloric shows when I am in a foreign country. Even though such shows have become commercialized I still like them because it helps to preserve the culture and promotes national pride. I was fortunate because on Wednesdays the InterContinental has a

Panamanian night with a Panamanian buffet and folkloric show. It started with two “devils” which comes from their European heritage and the time of the plague.  It represents the battle between good and evil.  I would like an explanation of the dances. 

I am not a fan of buffets; too many decisions, but it is fun to watch.  There are several tour groups here and the people attack the buffet like piranha that have not eaten and others circle trying to find a way to get in the circling group.   There were several interesting desserts on the buffet made from coconut, yucca, plantains, and nance, a small yellowish fruit that takes a bit of getting used to as it is rather tart.