Where did pizza come from?

It is usually hard to find out where a specific food item was invented because the general concept was adapted in many places.  I think the Asian cha siu bao, the Italian ravoli and the Russian piroshki have a lot in common. They are all stuffed pastry.  When John and I were in Split, Croatia we were told that pizza was invented in Split. We stayed at the Le Meridien Lav where we planned to take a cooking class but it was low season and the classes were not available. But the chef arranged to have one of his helpers, Snježana Matijaš, show us how to make a local favorite, soparnik. It resembles a two-crust pizza filled with Swiss chard. The Chef explained that pizza originated in Split, Croatia, “Pizza was making something out of nothing. It is what poor people did.” 

In AD 305, it seems that Roman Emperor Diocletian became ill so he abdicated and retired to Split where he built a great palace. Today the historic city of Split, much of which was built around the ruins of Diocletian’s palace, has been designated a World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO.  With Diocletian came many Romans, soldiers and servants, who enjoyed the local culinary favorite, soparnik, they took the recipe back to Rome where it, over the years, turned into pizza as we know it today.

Another interesting fact we learned was that countries were outsourcing long before the current hullabaloo over the topic. Water for Diocletian’s palace came from the Jadro River where the impressive remains of the original Roman aqueduct can still be seen.  They were restored during the 19^th century. We were told by our guide that historians were puzzled by the city’s excellent water system that seemed to supply water that exceeded the needs of the population during the time of Diocletian.  Research showed that they needed the water to facilitate the manufacture of military uniforms which was outsourced from Rome. Why? Because it was less expensive. The more things change the more they stay the same.  The water system is still in use today.

Making soparnik is easy. You can try this recipe that the Le Meridien shared with us.

Soparnik

1 lb Swiss chard (can substitute other greens)

¼ (one-fourth) head of small cabbage

3 tbsp olive oil

Dash sea salt

Dash Sugar

12 oz cold water

1 tsp salt

4 tbsp olive oil

1 lb all-purpose flour

4 tbsp minced garlic

2 tbsp olive oil

Remove stems from Swiss chard and julienne. Refrigerate it overnight to dry it. It must be really dry for the pie. The next day mix Swiss chard, cabbage, oil, sea salt, and add a bit of sugar. To make the dough, add water, salt and olive oil in the flour and knead until well mixed. Let it set for a 45 minutes. Split the dough in half. Lightly flour the rolling pin and dough. Roll the dough to a size of a baking tin; cover the dough with the Swiss chard. Roll the second half of the dough and cover Swiss chard. Pinch the edges. Bake at 425 for 20 min or until the crust is light brown. Mix the oil and garlic and brush the mixture on the top. Cut the pie into diamond shapes and serve it. Makes a great appetizer or vegetarian dish.

Exploring Split and Zagreb

From Dubrovnik, John and I took the 9-hour Jadrolinija ferry from Dubrovnik to Split. Most people suggested we take the bus because it was faster but we are slow travelers. The scenery was great and we had a leisurely lunch. The ferry stopped at two islands – Korcula and Hvar - but we couldn’t get off. I would love to take ferries from island to island staying at each for a couple of days. In Split we stayed at Le Meridien and once again the views of the Adriatic were beautiful and the weather stayed perfect.

In the morning we took the hotel’s free shuttle to the inner city where we met Petra, our guide. One of the most amazing things about Split is that it is where Diocletian, the Roman emperor, built his retirement home in the 4th century and parts are still in use today. Most incredible is that the aqueduct that was built at that time is sufficient for the present population of Split. It seems that there was a factory the produced uniforms for the Roman army so they needed a lot of water. I guess out-sourcing clothing production is nothing new! The Palace of Diocletian is considered one of the best-preserved ancient Roman structures. Diocletian is best remembered as a persecutor of Christians; interestingly, the building that was constructed to be his mausoleum is now the Cathedral of St. Domnius.

In the nearby small town of Omis we negotiated a favorable deal for a boat trip on the Cetina River since we missed the scheduled trip. The river twists and turns between high rocky cliff making it a pirate hide out years ago. Today people enjoy rafting and fishing. After a month of incredibly beautiful weather we could tell the weather was changing but we beat the sprinkles back to hotel. In the morning we had another cooking lesson. This time it was Swiss Chard Pie, which is similar to a pizza with a top and bottom crust. As the chef explained, “It is making something out of nothing. That’s what pizza is. Dough with little bits of whatever was available sprinkled on top.”

The day we headed to the capital, Zagreb, the beautiful weather ended dramatically. It was cold, windy, and rainy. On the way the “Miracle of Plitvice” occurred. That’s what I called it. Plitvice is a national park between Split and Zagreb and twenty minutes before we arrived the sun came out and it was beautiful. For four hours we walked the trail that went past many waterfalls and ponds. Beautiful!

The next day in Zagreb it was cold and rainy on the walking tour of the city. Zagreb is a beautiful city that was once a stop on the famed Orient Express. Our hotel the Regent Esplanade was built in the 1920s to serve the passengers. Recently remodeled it is lovely. It was only a short walk to the bus stop where we took the free trolley to the city center. We walked up to the Museum of the City of Zagreb which provided a great overview of the city then we did was seemed to be the favorite pastime of everyone in Croatia. We had coffee in a café. Zagreb is a comfortable and easy city to visit/ Croatia is a place we would love to revisit and spend more than two weeks.

Divine Dubrovnik

I am often asked, “What is your favorite place?” I usually reply, “Wherever I am.” Which is true because every place has its special appeal. But, I was totally entranced by Dubrovnik, the walled city in Croatia. There is something magical about entering through Pile Gate remembering that at one time the drawbridge was raised every night, the gate closed, and the key given to the prince. From the gate the view of the city’s pedestrian promenade with the Bell Tower at the end is breathtaking.

Luckily, John and I had decided to spend a couple days within the city walls. Our home, Roka Apartment A3 was perfect with a small kitchen, private bath and a pretty rooftop patio. My husband and I set out to become reacquainted with Dubrovnik, which we had visited in the 80s when it was part of Yugoslavia. During the War of the Homeland in the 1990s the city took over a hundred direct hits but other than a map showing where the destruction occurred there is little evidence of the war. We were glad that we had decided to visit in October when the weather along the Croatian Riviera is glorious – blue skies and just the right amount of tourists.

I would awaken to the muted sounds of the city coming alive. First were the flocks of birds taking flight for the day, followed by clickety-clack of the hand-pulled delivery wagons, and then people chatting on their way to work. That was the signal that I needed to get out on the streets. I loved walking the streets in the early morning before the tourists arrived. I wandered through the morning market in the square near Pucic Palace where the scent of lavender filled the air, had coffee at a café, bought freshly-made stuffed peppers from the deli for our dinner, and people-watched from the steps of St. Blaise Church, which was built in 1715 to replace an earlier one destroyed in an earthquake. Dubrovnik is a living museum – a city where people live, work, and play and have since the seventh century - that is what makes it so special.

Our leisurely three-hour stroll atop the impressive city walls that were built between the 13th and 16th century afforded us spectacular views. One day we took the shuttle boat from Dubrovnik to Lokrum Island and wandered through the botanical garden. There are plenty of things to do in Dubrovnik both within and outside the walls including visiting museums, attending concerts, taking boat trips to various islands, and plethora of sport activities from swimming to kayaking. On our last night I enjoyed a candlelit string quartet concert in the 16th century St. Saviour Church.

We also spend several nights outside the walls in the nearby newly opened Radisson Blu Resort. The full-service resort has three swimming pools, a marina, a beautiful spa, and offers shuttle service to the walled city. It was the perfect spot for John and I for some R&R, which is a necessity on long trips. The view from the balcony of our room of the Adriatic Sea and islands was mesmerizing.

I told a local resident that, “I’d love to spend a month in Dubrovnik.” He warned, “Watch out. My family came here on vacation in the 1970s and we are still here.” Lucky them!