Maltese Style Rabbit & Mushroom Pie (Torta Tal-fenek)

Malta is a group of islands in the Mediterranean between Sicily and North Africa. Its location means that it has been influenced by a variety of cultures including the Roman, Moors, French, and British. John and I stayed at the Corinthia Palace Hotel and Spa located in the capital city of Valetta. The hotel was once a 19th century country villa and many of the features were incorporated into the hotel. It is located near the Presidential Palace and the botanical gardens in a quiet gentrified area of the capital. One of the best ways to experience the culture of an area is to eat like the locals. The cuisine of the island reflects the tastes of many groups.  Rabbit Pie is considered one of Malta’s national dishes.

Rabbits were most likely brought to the island by the Romans or Phoenicians from the Iberian Peninsula. 
One of the items on the hotel menu was Maltese-style Rabbit and Mushroom Pie which, Stefan Hogan, the Executive Head Chef, agree to let me watch him make. Rabbit can be purchase at the meat market in Scriba.  I think any meat could be used if rabbit wasn’t available. 

Maltese Style Rabbit & Mushroom Pie (Torta Tal-fenek)

3 lb rabbit ready to cook 
2 celery sticks, cut into cubes
2 carrots, cut into cubes
1 leek, sliced
8 shallots 
Bay leaf
Sprig of rosemary
6 garlic cloves
1/3 cups olive oil
1 cup red wine
4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup mushrooms
1/2 cup peas
Pie crusts  
Egg wash for brushing & glazing (one egg blended with 1 to 3 tsp milk and a dash of salt.)

Put oil in pan. Add rabbit pieces. Fry until golden brown, transfer to an oven dish.  In a separate pan put some oil; sauté half the celery, half the carrots and the leek with two garlic cloves until lightly brown, Add to the oven dish with the rabbit. In the oven dish add the bay leaf and the rosemary. Deglaze the rabbit pan with the red wine, add to the oven dish. Cover with the chicken stock. Cover with aluminum foil and place in a pre-heated oven at 350 degrees for 1.5 hours. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Remove the rabbit pieces from the stock and pick the meat off the bone – try and leave the meat in large chunks. Strain the liquid and reduce by half.

In a clean pan heat, add some oil, and lightly brown the remaining garlic, celery, shallots and carrots, drain off excess oil, and add to the rabbit meat. Saute the mushrooms with a drop of oil until golden brown and add to the rabbit mixture, add the peas. Allow to cool completely. Lightly brush a circular baking dish with oil and dust with flour, line the baking dish with the the rolled-out pastry leaving half an inch of the pastry hanging over the sides, fill with the rabbit mixture, fold the overhanging dough over mixture then cover with the remaining dough. Seal edges of dough. Brush liberally with the egg wash, prick the pastry with a fork, and bake in an oven at 400 degrees for the first 15 minutes then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and continue to cook for approximately 30 to 40 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool before taking it out of the pan; let it rest 15 minutes before cutting.

Exploring Gozo Island, Malta

Gozo is an island in the Mediterranean Sea, one of 21 islands that make up the Maltese archipelago. Over the years Gozo has been influenced by and/or ruled by a variety of people including the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Sicilians, French and British. It is a 20-minute ferry ride from the main island of Malta. 

The island is not only smaller than Malta but quieter and more rural. Because of its uniqueness it has been used in many movies. The Jolie/Pitt movie “By the Sea” was filmed overlooking a narrow bay with a great beach.  John and I recently watched “The Count of Monte Cristo” and the Azure Window and other locations were filmed on the island. The Azure Window is a 328 feet high arch topped with a flat rock that has become fragile so people are no longer allow on top but below is an underwater cave known as the Blue Hole. It is accessed by divers through a 262-foot tunnel. 

I am always astounded by what people were able to accomplish

 thousands of years ago. There are several megalithic sites on Malta. Sadly, the Hypogeum of Hal-Saflieni, considered the most unique was closed for restoration. The Ggantija Temples is another of the important archeological site and it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There are two

temples that date back to 3600 BC predating Stonehenge and the Pyramids. It is hard to imagine how they were able to move and raise stones that weighed many tons. I wish I had taken a picture of John next to some of the biggest stones because the images don’t do it justice. 

The island is also home to a cave reputed to be where the Greek Warrior Ulysses met the goddess queen Calypso. On his way home from the siege of Troy Ulysses had many adventures.  All his shipmates were killed and after he was caught in violent nine-day storm he made his way to land (Gozo) where he met and was held by Calypso for seven years in a cave.  Visitors are no longer allowed in the Calypso Cave but we viewed it from above. 

For an island that is about the size of Manhattan there are some

amazing sites.  Victoria is the capital of the island and home to the Citadel which is visible from most parts of the island. The Citadel was a safe place for the people when the island was under attack which happened many times. Control of the island meant control of a strategic part of the Mediterranean.  Often raiders and victors made the people of Gozo

slaves.  There is an excellent multi-media presentation in the Citadel’s visitor center. It tells the tale of one of the men defending the fortress. Bernardo Dupuo fought bravely but when the Ottoman Turks broke through the city walls he killed his wife and two daughters fearing they would fall into the hands of the invaders. He felt death was better than being taken into slavery. He then fought to his death. There is a street named for him and a memorial plaque outside his house. 

As historic as Gozo is it is still a place to enjoy the islands many

beautiful beaches, hike, dive and enjoy a fresh fish meal along the harbor. I wish I had planned on a two-week stay in Malta so I could have spent another week on Gozo. Many people, including the Jolie/Pitt family, rent farm houses there. 

Mdina, Malta's old capital

The name “Mdina” is a reminder that the Spanish Muslims (Moors)

ruled Malta from 870 to 1091.  Their influence is most notable in the language and food. During that time Christians and Muslims lived in relative harmony and the Catholic Church copied some Islamic rituals. Church bells ring five times a day inviting Catholics to pray and the Islamic month

of fasting called Ramadhan was transformed into Lent.  In the 1200s Charles II of Naples had all the Muslim inhabitants exiled or sold into slavery and the mosques were destroyed or converted to churches. Malta saw many groups come and go over the years each leaving their mark, however so slight, creating a unique culture.  

Mdina is a walled city and is called “The Silent City” because there is a limited amount of vehicle traffic. Upon entering the massive gate the most prominent sound is the clip-clop of the horses pulling the carriages called a karozzin along the cobbled streets. Needless to say, John and I had to take a ride.  While we rode through the streets I felt that I should give my

“royal” wave to those we passed. We were pulled by a famous horse that had appeared in many movies with his driver. I liked the dichotomy – horse and carriages within the walls and a classic car show outside the walls.  Mdina is also called “The Noble City” because it is still home to many of Malta’s noble families and impressive homes line the narrow, shady streets. I would have loved to stay in Mdina when the streets are lantern-lit nightly but John and I stayed in a great 5-star hotel – The Corinthia

Palace. It is called the “palace” because the home of the president of Malta, San Anton Palace, is across the street.  The gardens of the palace are extensive and have been open to the public since 1882.  We enjoyed wandering along the walkways, past fountains, ponds and a maze that was easy because the greenery is only

shoulder high. The gardens are surrounded by a wall giving it a “secret garden” ambiance. The grounds of the Cornthia are garden-like, also, and they even have their own herb garden. I was hoping to have a spa treatment while at the Corinthia’s but they were all booked so instead I enjoyed the pool – both pools – the indoor one with a hot tub and the multi-

level outdoor one.  In the evening we relaxed in the elegant Caprice Lounge before heading to dinner. One night we dined at the hotel’s Rickshaw Restaurant. It was one of the best Asian meals we have ever had. Again the problem was that we didn’t get to stay long enough to enjoy their many perks such as a free shuttle to the beach. 

One afternoon we had an awesome lunch in Marsaxlokk, a traditional fishing village with colorful fishing boats bobbing in the water. There were some beautiful handcrafted items offered in the vendor stalls that lined the waterfront.  The iconic souvenir of Malta is a filigree silver Maltese cross but the handmade lace and table covers were also exquisite. The

restaurants offer the “catch of the day” and they all had dining areas along the waterfront.  We ate at La Nostra Padrona enjoying their famed lampuka.  The dessert was unique - Imgaret - date-filled pastries deep fried served warm with ice cream. We couldn’t finish it all so we wrapped up some of them to enjoy later. 

Malta: Europe's Best Kept Secret

Many people had suggested we visit Malta. I don’t know what took

so long. I think Malta is one of Europe’s best kept secrets.  The archipelago of Malta is located in the Mediterranean between the Italian island of Sicily and Africa. Malta is blessed with a Mediterranean climate. English and Maltese are the official languages. The main island is 17 miles long and nine miles wide there are an amazing number of historical sites dating back to Neolithic times.  The islands are home to three UNESCO World Heritage sites including the City of Valletta, the Megalithic Temples, and the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum. 

Even though more bombs fell on Malta during WW II than any other place the reconstruction maintained the island’s architectural integrity.  I loved the colorful balconies. Malta has an unspoiled look; John said it looks Biblical. It has been the setting for many movies including “Game of Thrones,” “By the Sea,” and “Popeye.” The set of “Popeye” is now a theme park.

According to UNESCO, Valletta, the walled capital of Malta, is

"one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world." It was established in the 1500s by the Knights of St. John, a Roman Catholic order. The interior of St. John’s Co-Cathedral is a masterpiece of Baroque art with dazzling gilded pillars and elaborately painted ceilings. In the Oratory

is Caravaggio’s “The Beheading of St. John the Baptist” painting, and the only one he signed.  Have you heard of the term “The stinking rich”? It is said that the term came from the practice of burying wealthy and influential people inside the churches and cathedrals. The term comes from lingering odor of rotting corpses. Interesting.

From the Upper Barrakka Gardens John and I had a panoramic

view of the world’s largest and deepest natural harbor and a view beyond the harbor to the three fortified cities of Birgu, Senglea, and Cospicu, best known as the Three Cities.  We were not on time for the Noon Day Gun, a reminder of when Malta was an English colony, Hong Kong still fires their Noon Day Gun. We did hear it when we were touring the Three Cities.

The Three Cities was a change from bustling Valletta. Visitors usually only see the Three Cities as it is pointed out on a bus tour. The area is claimed as the “cradle” of Maltese history. Is has been in use since the Phoenicians arrived in the 8th century BC – maybe even before. The palaces, churches, forts, and bastions are older than those in Valletta. It is the place where it is said they have the best fiestas. 

One of my favorite places was the historic house/museum Casa

Rocca Piccola. It is has been the home of the royal Piro family since the 16th Century.  The family still lives there. The current owner is the 9th Marquis de Piro. The Marquis was answering questions for visitors; his wife was taking tickets.  The house is an example of how the well-to-do lived and some still do. They

had their own chapel. Of special interest were the bomb shelters where the family sought safety during WW II. There were three shelters cut out of solid rock that could hold 100 people during the bombing raids with a private room for the family. 

As always there was a lot we wanted to do but just didn’t have the time. We love museums but, in reality, the whole island is a museum. 

How to make octopus Maltese style

Malta is an island in the Mediterranean so seafood it very popular.

 One day John and I had lunch at La Nostra Padrona, a seaside restaurant in the picturesque fishing town of Marsaxlokk. The weather was beautiful – perfect for dining alfresco. Malta can be very hot in the summer so seaside dining,

where it is usually cooler, is very popular. It was busy when we were there but there were many restaurants to choose from.  Most restaurants also have indoor dining. John was able to pick from the “catch of the day” while I had a great salad. Our lunch was excellent and ended with a typical dessert – imgaret a deep-fried date pastry served with ice cream. I loved walking along the waterfront where there were vendors selling a variety of goods including many locally made items.  The Maltese fishing boats are very colorful as they bobbed in the bay. 

One day we scheduled a ‘hotel day’ - reading around the pool,

enjoying the spa and learning how to make a traditional Maltese recipe. Ramla’s Executive Head Chef Christian Borg showed us how to make Qarnit Moqli. Chef Borg said Maltese cooking is simple, colorful, and tasty.   He explained further that many countries invaded Malta over the years so many recipes are a mix of Italian and Arabic cuisine.  

Qarnit Mogli is usually served as a starter but we found it was enough for a lunch.  John, the seafood lover, declared it excellent.  I am not a lover of seafood but, of course, I tried it.  The flavor was wonderful. I knew it would be from the aroma when it was cooking; however, I found the octopus a little too chewy to my liking. I really appreciate it when a hotel’s chef will take the time to share his expertise. I think they appreciate it when someone shows an interest in their work which often goes unacknowledged.  

Qarnit Moqli

2 whole medium-sized octopuses
1 medium fresh chili, diced (amount used depends on how hot you want it)
1 lemon
1tbsp black pepper corns
6 bay leaves
10 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 small red onion, diced
2 – 4 sprigs of fresh mint 
2 – 4 sprigs of fresh basil 
10 cherry tomatoes cut in half
1tbsp sun-dried tomatoes, diced
½ cup white wine
1tbsp capers 
1tbsp pitted black olives, roughly chopped
Freshly ground pepper as desired
Extra virgin olive oil as desired 
Crusty white loaf (Hobz tal-malthi) or bread bowls

Boil the octopus together with half the chili, half the lemon, black

pepper corns, bay leaves, and half of the garlic. Let it boil gently until the octopus is nice and tender (approximately 40minutes).
When the octopus is ready separate the tentacles from the head and cut them in half. Remove the beak. Cut the head into three thick slices.

In a frying pan add a dash of olive oil, when warm  add the onions until it starts to become soft then add the rest of the garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and chilies.  Add the octopus and white wine. Cook over medium heat until it is reduced by half. Add the capers (rinse these before adding to the pan) and the olives and let them cook slowly for about 5 minutes.  Finish with a squeeze of lemon, freshly ground black pepper, and more olive oil. Scoop out the center of a bread bowl and fill with octopus mixture. Garnish and serve. 

Malta - the perfect destination

Many things about Malta surprised me. First of all I was surprised to learn that it was one of the most intensely bombed places during WW II.  It makes sense now that I think about it.  The Islands' strategic location in the Mediterranean made it a key stronghold from which the Allies could continue their North African campaign and from which they could launch their

attack on mainland Italy. The Axis power vowed to bomb it into submission. The German and Italian air forces flew over 3000 bombing raids in a two year period trying to gain control of the island.  After the war reconstruction remained true to the Maltese architecture.  John said that it looks biblical and to date they have managed to keep glassy skyscrapers from being built.  

Because Malta has retained its architectural integrity and has some

unique geological formations the island has been used in many movies such as “Troy,” “Conan,” “13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi, Captain Phillips, “By the Sea,” and Popeye.  One of the places we visited was the site that was used in the Pitt-Jolie movie, “By the Sea.”  It was a

beautiful secluded place to swim. The set was on the cliff above the inlet but was torn down when the movie was finished.  Most movie sets, even though they cost millions of dollars, are taken down at the end of production.  However, there is one movie set on Malta that was not. Popeye’s village of Sweethaven is now a popular theme park where they now have a variety of activities. People can even star in their own film, record it, and take it home as unique souvenir. 

I was also surprised that Malta does not get more coverage as a

must-do destination in Europe.  Malta is safe, they speak English, there are many historical sites all within close proximity of one another, and they are blessed with a Mediterranean climate. There are plenty of beaches. The main and biggest island is about 17 miles long by nine miles wide.  Malta is home to three UNESCO World Heritage sites with several others in consideration for inclusion. I don’t know what took us so long to visit Malta. 

It is always hard to pick a hotel and so far we have been lucky.  We stayed for several days at Ramla Beach Resort which is located on the coast plus they have their own private beach.  A lot of the hotels are located across the road from a public beach.  And, as an added benefit they offer complimentary airport transfers. Nothing is worse, in my opinion, than to fly for hours, arrive at a destination tired and have to hassle with a taxi driver especially when we are not familiar with how far away the hotel is and the local currency. 

Ramla Bay worked out great. It was in a quiet area with a great view of Gozo and Comino islands – two of the other islands in the Malta archipelago. Besides having its own private beach, the hotel had two outdoor pools and one indoor pool.  Our room had a balcony with a great view.  After a long plane ride we like to spend our first day relaxing and enjoying the hotel. There was plenty to do.  I had a spa treatment, went in all three pools, and Chef Christian showed me how to make a Maltese favorite – pan-seared octopus.