One of the most popular day tours in
Korea is to the DMZ and
Panmunjom. With all the news about the 29-year-old North Korean leader, Kim Jong Un, I was curious to see if tours to the border area between North and
South
Korea were still possible. The two-mile wide
DMZ runs about 160 miles along the 38
th parallel cutting the
Korean Peninsula
in half dividing
Korea
into two parts.
John and I wanted to book a full day tour to the DMZ and Panmunjom
but visiting
Panmunjom was not allowed while
we were there because they were holding military maneuvers. This was understandable
considering the rhetoric we were hearing on CNN but we were told that each side
routinely holds “shows of strength.” The Koreans we talked to said they were
not really worried. They said, “It is the same-old, same-old. We have been living with it for 60 years.”
Panmunjom, officially
called the Joint Security Area by the United Nations. is where the armistice
agreement was signed in 1953. It is a “no-man’s land” with no side in
charge. I understand that it is
basically a deserted village and that the DMZ is actually more
interesting.
The bus ride from Seoul
north along the river was interesting because it was lined with barbed wire and
guard houses at frequent intervals. At one point our guide pointed out that the
other side of the river was North
Korea. She said that recently a North Korean
swam across the river and knocked on the guardhouse and asked for asylum.
Our first stop was Imjingak, a park that was built to
console refugees who left North
Korea during the war. It is a fascinating
place that combines historical artifacts with amusement rides. The park has become a place for Koreans to
relax and enjoy the out-of-doors but it is also a place where they can bow in
the direction of their ancestral graveyards.
There is a view of the Freedom Bridge, a former railroad bridge across the Imjin River,
used by repatriated POWs/soldiers
returning to South Korea
from the North. Also on view is a huge train riddled with more than 1000 bullet
holes as a reminder of the war.
Actually there are several interesting things including a high platform
from which people can view North
Korea but there isn’t much to see. The Stones of Peace wall is a sculpture
containing stones from 86 battlefields in 64 countries. It was dedicated on
January 1, 2000 in the hope that the new century would be one that would see
the unification of the North and South and world peace.
On the same day a
21-ton Korean-style Peace Bell was also dedicated in the hope that the 21st
century would be “…a time of unification and peace for all mankind.” We asked our guide who was very knowledgeable
if we could ring the bell which was housed in a gated, temple-style pavilion.
She said it was not allowed and was surprised when we pointed to a sign that
said that people who were interested could ring the bell in the name of “…unification, peace and hope...” She said
she had never seen the sign and no one ever asked before but ran off to get the
person in charge. So for about $10 USD
John rang the bell. It was my favorite
part of the stop in Imjingak.